THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


'     nf 'E  on  »Se  '<>st 


£RN  BRANCH, 
•ITY  OP  CALIFORNIA,  " 

LIBRARY, 

LOS  ANGELES,  CALJF, 


THE  HOME  MAKING  SERIES 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


AN  ELEMENTARY   TEXTBOOK  OF  HOME  MAKING 


BY 


PROFESSOR  OK  HOUSEHOLD  ARTS  EDUCATION,  TEACHERS  COLLEGE 

COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY,  AUTHOR  OF  "FOOD  AND  HOUSEHOLD 

MANAGEMENT"  AND  "SHELTER  AND  CLOTHING" 

AND 

ANNA    M.   COOLEY,   B.S. 

ASSISTANT   PROFESSOR   OF    HOUSEHOLD   ARTS    EDUCATION,   TEACHERS   COLLEGE 

COLUMBIA    UNIVERSITY,    AUTHOR   OF   "  FOOD    AND    HOUSEHOLD 

MANAGEMENT  "   AND   "  SHELTER   AND  CLOTHING  " 


Ncto  got* 

THE;MACMILLAN  COMPANY 

1920 

411  rightt  reserved 

50557 


COPYRIGHT,  1916, 
BY  THE  MACMILLAN   COMPANY. 


Set  up  and  electrotyped.     Published  September,  1916. 


Noriooolj  $resa 

J.  S.  Gushing  Co.  —  Berwick  &  Smith  Co. 
Norwood,  Mass.,  U.S.A.  - 


TT 
7/0 


PREFACE 

X       THIS  volume,  like  its  companion,  Food  and  Health^  is  in- 

*!  tended  for  use  in  the  elementary  schools  in  those  sections 

^-^  of  the  country  where  the  home  life  is  of  the  type  described. 

It  is  hoped  that  both  volumes  will  be  used  -by  the  home 

people  as  well  as  by  those  at  the  school. 

This  volume  treats  largely  of  the  clothing  problems  and 
xj^of  the  elementary  work  in  sewing  which  precedes  garment 
making.     It  also  includes  the  subject  of  the  leading  textile 
materials,  —  where  they  are  grown  and  how  they  are  manu- 
factured ready  for  our  use.     Such  topics  as  the  hygiene  of 
|    clothing,  buying  materials  and  clothing  wisely,  the  clothing 
O    budget,  the  use  of  the  commercial  pattern,  the  care  and  re- 
o/>    pair  of  clothing,  color  combinations,  and  attractiveness  in 
dress,  are  woven  in  with  the  lessons  on  sewing  and  textiles, 
in  a  very  simple  and  elementary  way. 

The  authors  are  indebted  to  the  United  States  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture,  to  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  to  the 
Draper  Company,  Hopedale,  Massachusetts,  to  the  York 
Street  Flax  Spinning  Company,  Belfast,  to  the  Whittall 
Rug  Company,  to  Cheney  Brothers,  silk  manufacturers, 
and  to  others,  for  kind  permission  to  use  the  pictures 

iii 


iv  PREFACE 

shown.  We  acknowledge,  also,  the  permission  of  the  Cor- 
ticelli  Silk  Mills  of  Florence,  Massachusetts,  for  use  of 
their  copyrighted  photographs  of  silkworms.  Teachers 
will  be  glad  to  know  that  they  can  obtain  from  the  Corti- 
celli  Mills,  at  slight  expense,  specimen  cocoons  and  other 
helps  for  object  lesson  teaching. 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

THE  PLEASANT  VALLEY  SCHOOL i 

CHAPTER  I.     THE  PLEASANT  VALLEY  GIRLS  LEARN  TO  SEW: 

Lesson    i .  Toweling  and  Other  Cotton  Samples    ....         6 

Lesson    2.  The  Story  of  How  Cotton  Grows  .         .         .         .11 

Lesson    3.  The  Hemming  Stitch    .......       19 

Lesson    4.  The  Stitching  Stitch  »        •.     .   .         ...       23 

Lesson    5.  The  Overhanding  Stitch 28 

Lesson    6.  Planning  to  Make  an  Apron  .         .         .         .         -3' 

Lesson    7.  Using  the  Running  and  Back  Stitch  on  the  Apron        .       34 

Lesson    8.  Making  and  Attaching  the  Apron  Yokes  37 

Lesson    9.  How  to  Make  a  Buttonhole  .         .  .         .         -39 

Lesson  10.  The  Use  of  the  Commercial  Pattern      .         .  '  .46 

Lesson  1 1 .  Taking  Measurements  and  Cutting  Out  the  Petticoat    .       50 

Lesson  12.  Making  the  Petticoats  .         ..'..-      .         .         .       53 

CHAPTER  II.     THE  GIRLS  OF  THE  PLEASANT  VALLEY  SCHOOL  LEARN 

TO  MAKE  SIMPLE  GARMENTS: 

Lesson    i .  Cotton  Materials  Suitable  for  Underwear       ...  58 

Lesson    2.  Selecting  a  Pattern  and  the  Cloth  for  a  Nightdress        .  63 

Lesson    3.  How  Cotton  Cloth  is  Woven 65 

Lesson    4.  The  Spinning  of  Cotton  into  Yarn        ....  72 

Lesson    5.  Cutting  Out  a  Nightdress 78 

Lesson    6.  The  Parts  of  the  Sewing  Machine         ....  80 

Lesson    7.  Practice  in  Threading  and  Running  the  Machine           .  84 

Lesson    8.  The  French  Seam  and  Its  Use      .         .         .         .         .86 

Lesson    9.  Protection  for  the  Body  at  Night .....  89 

Lesson  10.  Laces  and  Their  Use    .*  .         .         .         .         -93 

Lesson  1 1 .  Trimming  the  Nightdress 98 


VI 


CONTENTS 


Lesson  12.    Choosing  the  Pattern  and  Material  for  a  White  Petticoat     101 

Lesson  13.    Learning  to  Make  the  Petticoat 103 

Lesson  14.    How  to  Make  a  Corset  Cover        .....     105 


CHAPTER  III.     LEARNING  TO  MAKE  ATTRACTIVE  GIFTS  FOR  CHRIST- 
MAS OR  FOR   A   BIRTHDAY  PRESENT  : 


Lesson  i . 
Lesson    2. 

Lesson  3. 

Lesson  4. 

Lesson  5. 

Lesson  6. 

Lesson  7. 

Lesson  8. 

Lesson  9. 
Lesson  10. 


The  Story  of  How  Silk  is  Produced 

Simple  Articles  Easily  Made  from  Silk  Scraps 

The  Names  and  Uses  of  Several  Silks  are  Discussed 

More  Useful  Gifts  and  How  to  Make  Them  . 

Cousin  Ann  Tells  How  Silk  is  Made  into  Cloth     . 

The  Blanket  Stitch  can  be  Used  in  Many  Ways   . 

Learning  to  Make  the  Cross-stitch 

How  to  Make  the  Hemstitch         .... 

Another  Useful  Gift  and  a  New  Stitch  . 

The  Darning  Stitch      .         .         .         .  ;.    . 


CHAPTER  IV.  THE  PLEASANT  VALLEY  GIRLS  LEARN  TO  CARE  FOR 
THEIR  CLOTHES  AND  TO  HELP  REPAIR  THE  HOUSEHOLD 
LINENS  : 

Lesson    I.  Care  of  Clothes 

Lesson    2.  Learning  to  Darn  Straight  Tears  .         ...         .      .  . 

Lesson    3.  Darning  Stockings        .         .         .         .        , 

Lesson    4.  Patching  Saves  Clothing  and  Other  Articles 

Lesson    5.  The  Story  of  How  Linen  is  Grown        .         ... 

Lesson    6.  Common  Linen  Materials  are  Identified        ;         .'        i 

Lesson    7.  Removing  Common  Stains  from  Table  Linen 

Lesson    8.  Learning  to  Wash  and  Iron  the  Table  or  Bed  Linen      . 

Lesson    9.  The  Story  of  the  Manufacture  of  Linen  Yarn  into  Cloth 

Lesson  10.  A  Talk  about  Buying  Linens         ..... 

CHAPTER  V.     THE    PLEASANT    VALLEY    GIRLS    LEARN    TO    MAKE 

OTHER  GARMENTS: 

Lesson    i .    The  Pattern  of  the  Bloomers         ..... 
2.    The  Story  of  Where  Wool  is  Grown     . 


Lesson 
Lesson 
Lesson 
Lesson 


3.  Some  of  the  Most  Common  Materials  Made  from  Wool 

4.  Making  a  Pair  of  Blcromers  ...... 

5.  The  Story  of  How  Wool  is  Made  into  Cloth 


109 
116 

122 
127 

'3* 
138 
142 

147 
149 
152 


156 
163 

167 
171 
174 
181 
185 
1 88 
191 
196 


201 
203 
209 
215 

218 


CONTENTS 


Vll 


PAGB 

Lesson    6.    Some  Facts  to  Remember  in  Purchasing  Wool  Clothing  224 

Lesson    7.    The  Clothing  Budget    .         .         .         .                  .      '   .  230 

Lesson    8.    Planning  a  Dress  Skirt  of  Cotton  Material    .         .         .  236 

Lesson    9.    Clothing  in  Relation  to  Health     .         .         .        .         .  240 

Lesson  10.    More  Health  Problems  in  Choosing  Clothes          .         .  243 

CHAPTER  VI.    CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES: 

Lesson    i .    What  it  Means  to  be  Well  Dressed     ^*         •         •         •  25° 

Lesson    2.    The  Choice  of  Colors  for  Clothing        ....  256 

Lesson    3.    Selecting  a  Hat    .         .         .         .         '.        .         .         .  262 

Lesson    4.    Making  the  Middy  Blouse     .        ..         .      •  .         .         .  268 

Lesson    5.    Suggestions  for  Buying  Garments  of  Wool  and  Silk      .  271 

Lesson    6.    Learning  to  Use  Some  Simple  Textile  Tests         .         .  278 

Lesson    7.    How  Pattern  is  Made  in  Cloth 285 

THE  ELLEN  H.  RICHARDS  HOUSE 291 


THE   PLEASANT  VALLEY  SCHOOL 

THIS  is  a  story  of  the  way  in  which  the  mothers 
and  fathers,  the  teacher  and  pupils,  and  their  friends 
in  the  township  work  together  to  make  the  broad  valley 
in  which  they  live  truly  a  Pleasant  Valley.  The  new 
school  stands  where  the  little  red  schoolhouse  was 
built  for  those  who  are  now  grandmothers  and  grand- 
fathers, when  the  town  was  first  settled.  The  old 
building  had  become  too  small  for  all  the  young  folk, 
but  everybody  loved  the  place  and  it  was  not  until  a 
fire  had  destroyed  it  that  money  was  voted  for  larger 
and  better  housing  for  the  school  girls  and  boys. 

These  small  books  can  describe  only  a  part  of  every- 
thing that  is  being  done  in  and  for  the  school,  and  for 
the  home  people  too,  for  you  know  that  no  town  can 
prosper  and  no  country  be  great  unless  the  homes  are 


2  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 

healthful  and  happy,  where  all  the  members  of  every 
family  work  and  play  together.  Do  you  not  want 
to  help,  too,  in  your  home,  and  in  your  town  ? 


1819 


CLOTHING    AND    HEALTH 


CHAPTER   I 
THE   PLEASANT  VALLEY  GIRLS  LEARN  TO  SEW 

Our  clothes  are  important  for  they  help  to  keep  us 
well.  Shall  we  learn  how  to  choose  the  materials  for 
them,  and  how  to  make  some  useful  articles  of  clothing  ? 
Sewing  is  an  art  which  all  girls  should  learn.  If  we 
know  how  to  sew,  we  can  keep  our  clothes  in  order 
and  always  be  neat  and  attractive  in  appearance.  We 
can,  also,  make  acceptable  articles  and  gifts  for  others. 
It  is  useful,  too,  to  know  about  materials  and  about 
their  costs  and  uses ;  for,  when  we  buy  our  clothing 
and  household  articles  ready-made,  we  should  know 
how  to  tell  whether  the  material  is  durable  and  will 
wear.  The  women  of  the  home  should  know  how  to 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


make  a  dollar  buy  the  very  best  things.  The  mothers 
and  grandmothers  of  Pleasant  Valley  are  delighted  to 
know  that  their  children  are  to  be  taught  at  school. 
If  we  understand  about  materials,  we  will  be  able  to 
help  a  great  deal.  Do  you  know  that  the  women  of 

the  United  States  spend 
a  billion  of  dollars  every 
year  for  textile  materials 
alone  ?  Isn't  it  interest- 
ing to  know,  too,  that 
our  clothing  materials 
come  from  plants  or  ani- 
mals ?  Do  you  know  how 
they  are  obtained  and 
manufactured  ?  Do  you 
belong  to  a  sewing  club 
or  society  ?  Perhaps  you 
can  form  a  sewing  club 
at  your  school  or  in 
your  town  as  the  girls 
of  Pleasant  Valley  did. 
Marjorie  Allen  (Fig.  i) 


FIG.    i.  —  Marjorie    Allen,    President 
the  Girls'  Sewing  League. 


has  been  made  Presi- 
dent of  the  Girls'  Sewing 
League  of  Pleasant  Valley.  All  the  school  girls  be- 
long;  they  meet  once  a  week  and  usually  sew  for 
their  annual  fair.  Sometimes  they  make  garments 
for  the  little  children  who  come  during  the  summer 
to  the  Fresh  Air  Home  near  their  town.  Marjorie 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  5 

buys  all  the  materials ;  so  she  must  know  how  to 
buy.  She  goes  once  a  month  with  her  mother,  Mrs. 
Allen,  to  town  where  there  is  a  good  store.  Some- 
times she  orders  by  mail. 

The  girls  of  the  league  have  decided  to  make  some 
kitchen  towels  and  potlifters.     These  are  useful  and 


FIG.  2.  —  Miss  James   and  some  of  the  Pleasant  Valley  girls.      They  are  sewing 
for  the  League  fair. 

always  sell  well.  As  the  girls  do  not  yet  know  how 
to  make  these  articles,  they  have  promised  to  make  a 
towel  for  themselves  for  school  use,  on  which  to  learn. 
Then  they  will  make  others  for  the  sale.  Cooking, 
sewing,  and  housewifery  are  a  part  of  the  school  work. 
Besides  Miss  James,  the  teacher,  will  give  credit  for  the 


6  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

sewing  done  by  the  Girls'  League.  The  girls  are  anx- 
ious to  prove  to  Miss  James  (Fig.  2)  that  they  can 
really  work  outside  of  school. 

Later  the  girls  hope  to  make  aprons  and  caps  to 
wear  for  their  school  work  in  housewifery,  and  also 
some  petticoats  for  the  children  at  the  Fresh  Air 
Home.  Miss  James  says  she  will  help  them  at  school 
to  get  started. 

LESSON  i 

TOWELING   AND    OTHER   COTTON    SAMPLES 

Marjorie  sent  for  samples  of  toweling  materials.  She  also  went 
to  the  town  store  to  see  what  it  had  to  offer,  and  to  look  for  ma- 
terials for  petticoats  and  aprons.  One  day  at  school  all  the  girls 
wrote  for  samples.  Miss  James  criticized  the  letters,  and  chose  the 
best  one  to  be  sent.  Perhaps  you  can  do  this  at  your  school. 

What  material  is  best  for  toweling  ?  As  soon  as 
all  the  samples  arrived  at  Pleasant  Valley,  Marjorie 
took  them  to  school,  and  Miss  James  spent  an  hour 
with  the  girls  studying  the  materials.  The  toweling 
samples  were  examined  first.  What  a  difference  in 
them !  Some  are  smooth  and  feel  cold  and  look 
almost  shiny,  and  others  feel  soft  and  look  more  fuzzy 
on  the  surface.  Do  you  know  why  ?  It  is  because 
some  are  woven  of  linen  fibers  made  from  the  flax 
plant,  and  others  from  cotton  which  comes  from  the 
cotton  plant.  Which  do  you  think  are  made  from 
cotton  ?  Then,  there  is  a  difference  in  width :  some 
are  only  15  inches  wide,  and  others  are  18  inches. 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  7 

Some  have  a  red  or  blue  edge,  and  others  are  plain. 
There  is  also  difference  in  price.  Which  costs  more, 
linen  or  cotton  ?  Are  the  prices  not  given  on  the 
samples  ?  Marjorie  and  the  girls  decided  that  the 
towels  are  to  be  one  yard  long.  They  would  like  to 
make  four  dozen  for  the  sale  and  plan  to  tie  them  up 
attractively,  half  a  dozen  in  a  package.  They  had 
$25  left  in  the  treasury  from  last  year.  As  they  will 
have  many  other  things  to  buy,  they  decided  to  pur- 
chase cotton  towels  this  year.  Later,  if  there  is  enough 
money,  they  can  add  some  linen  towels.  Cotton  towels 
do  not  absorb  the  water  as  easily  as  the  linen.  We 
call  this  a  difference  in  the  properties  of  the  two 
materials.  Barbara  Oakes  said  her  mother  always 
buys  linen  towels.  Cotton  fibers  have  a  kind  of 
waxy  coating  which  throws  off  the  water.  Linen 
fibers  draw  in  moisture  quickly,  and  linen  materials 
dry  very  rapidly.  Why,  then,  is  linen  really  better 
for  dish  towels  ? 

Gingham,  calico,  and  chambray  are  pretty  and 
useful.  Let  us  look  at  some  of  the  other  cotton 
materials.  Miss  James  had  many  samples  for  the 
girls  to  see.  Grandmother  Stark  sent  over  some  from 
her  piece  bag.  Perhaps  your  teacher  will  bring  some, 
and  your  mother  may  send  some,  too.  There  are  several 
samples  of  material  for  the  aprons  and  caps.  The 
blue  and  white,'  and  pink  and  white  stripes  and  checks 
are  ginghams  ;  the  white  with  the  little  spots  and  thin 
stripes  are  percales.  The  plain  blues  and  pinks  are 


8 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


TEXTILE 

SAMPLE 

BOOK 


chambray  ;  the  plain  blues  and  pinks  of  cheaper  grade 
are  ginghams.  Those  with  printed  designs  on  one  side 
are  calicos.  The  dark  brown  and  blue  samples  are 
heavier  and  are  called  denims.  Suppose  we  make  a 
book  of  brown  paper  and  mount  all  the  cotton  materials 
we  can  find.  This  book  can  be  kept  at  the  school 
for  reference.  Everybody  must 
help.  See  if  it  is  possible  to 
write  under  each  sample  the 
name  and  common  uses  of  the 
material  as  well  as  its  price. 
Miss  James  had  some  smooth 
brown  paper  to  fold  for  a  book. 
She  suggested  ways  to  bind  it. 
If  each  girl  wishes  her  own 
book,  a  number  can  be  made 
if  so  many  samples  can  be  ob- 
tained.  Barbara  and  Marjorie 

dedde    tO    make    their    b°°ks     at 

home. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  cotton  flannel.  The 
fuzzy  soft  cotton  samples  are  outing  flannels  and  canton 
flannels.  What  is  the  difference  in  their  appearance  ? 
The  canton  flannel  is  heavier,  and  it  has  one  twilled 
surface  and  one  fuzzy  surface.  It  costs  12  cents  a 
yard  and  comes  about  30  inches  in  width.  Outing 
flannel,  which  is  fuzzy  on  both  sides,  can  be  bought 
from  10  to  35  cents  a  yard,  and  it  is  36  inches  wide. 
The  flannelette  samples  are  also  soft  and  cost  from  8 


FIG.  3.—  The  girls  made  bro 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  9 

to  12  cents  per  yard  ;  but  flannelette  is  only  27  inches 
in  width.  It  has  a  slight  nap  or  fuzzy  surface,  and  is 
sometimes  plain  in  color  and  sometimes  printed  on 
one  surface.  Compare  these  three  materials.  Outing 
flannel  is  very  dangerous  unless  treated  with  ammonium 
phosphate.  Dissolve  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  am- 
'monium  phosphate,  which  costs  about  25  cents,  in  one 
gallon  of  cold  water.  Soak  the  clothing  in  this  solu- 
tion for  five  minutes.  This  is  easily  done  and  may 
prevent  much  trouble.  Can  you  tell  why  outing 
flannel  is  dangerous  unless  it  is  treated  ? 

Many  other  cotton  materials  are  useful.  Miss  James 
has  ever  so  many  more  cotton  materials.  She  told  the 
girls  the  use  and  name  of  each.  Can  we  learn  them  all  ? 

Cheesecloth.  Thin,  sheer,  plain  weave.  Costs  from  5  to  12 
cents  per  yard,  and  comes  i  yard  wide.  It  is  used  for  wrapping 
butter  or  cheese,  for  curtains,  and  for  many  other  purposes.  It 
may  be  used  for  baby,  too,  because  it  is  so  soft.  The  unbleached 
cheesecloth  costs  from  4  to  12  cents  and  is  i  yard  wide. 

Crinoline.  Something  like  cheesecloth  in  appearance  and 
stiffer  in  texture.  It  is  used  by  dressmakers  for  stiffening  parts  of 
garments.  It  comes  from  about  19  to  36  inches  wide  and  costs 
\^\  cents  up. 

Scrim.  An  open  mesh  weave  but  heavier  than  cheesecloth.  It 
is  used  for  curtains  and  household  furnishings,  and  comes  bleached 
or  unbleached.  What  is  the  difference  in  their  color  ?  Cost,  from 
12  to  90  cents.  Width,  from  36  to  45  inches. 

Cretonne  and  Chintz.  Printed  materials  with  flowers  or  designs 
on  one  side,  sometimes  on  both.  They  cost  from  12  to  75  cents  per 
yard  and  are  used  for  curtains,  covers,  cushion  tops,  etc.  They 
vary  in  width  from  25  to  36  inches. 


10 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


Denim.  Strong  material  and  has  an  uneven  twilled  weave.  It 
is  used  for  furniture  covers,  for  aprons,  and  for  floor  covering.  It 
costs  from  1 8  to  30  cents  per  yard  and  comes  about  i  yard  in  width. 
Your  big  brother  or  father  wears  overalls  of  this  material ;  perhaps 
some  of  the  boys  in  school  do,  too. 

Gingham.  A  material  used  for  aprons  or  dresses,  skirts,  etc. 
It  is  from  24  to  30  inches  wide  and  costs  from  10  to  50  cents  per 
yard.'  Fine  ginghams  are  very  beautiful.  Sometimes  they  are 
plain  in  color  or  striped  or  in  plaids. 

Percale.  A  good  piece  can  be  bought  for  \i\  cents  per  yard,  36 
inches  wide.  It  comes  plain  or  printed,  and  is  firm  and  closely 
woven.  It  is  good  for  aprons  or  summer  dresses. 

Ticking.  A  material  used  for  pillows  or  mattress  covers.  It  is 
striped,  is  twilled  in  weave,  and  wears  very  well.  It  costs  from 
12^  cents  per  yard  up  to  50  or  60  cents  per  yard,  and  is  woven  36 
inches  wide. 

Do  you  understand  what   is   meant  when  we  read 
that  cloth  is  woven  36  inches  wide  ?     Do  you   know 
how  cotton  cloth  is  made  and  where   it   comes  from  ? 
Grandmother  Allen  told  some  of 
the  girls  ;  for  she  knows  about  all 
such  things.     In  our  next  lesson 
we  shall  study  where  cotton  is 
grown,  and  in  another  learn  how 
it   is  woven.     Another   day  we 
will   learn  the   names  of  other 

FIG.  4.  —  The  surprise  box.  .    ,  j      i      • 

cotton  materials  and  their  uses. 

Then,  we  can  add  them  to  our  book  of  cotton  samples. 
The  little  white  box  on  Miss  James'  desk  is  a  surprise 
box  (Fig.  4).  Any  one  who  finds  a  new  cotton  material 
different  from  those  studied  at  school,  Miss  James  says, 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  n 

may  drop  it  through  the  little  hole  in  the  cover  of  the 
box.  What  fun  the  girls  of  Pleasant  Valley  will  have 
when  it  is  opened. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  If  you  were  buying  kitchen  toweling  for  use  at  home,  what 
material  would  you  buy  ? 

2.  Name  three  fuzzy  cotton  materials  and  tell  their  uses. 

3.  Decide  whether  you  are  to  make  a  sample  book.     Begin  to 
collect  samples  of  cotton  materials  for  it. 

4.  Write  quickly  on  the  blackboard  the  names  of  six  common 
cotton  materials.     Ask  mother  to  name  six. 


LESSON  2 

THE  STORY  OF  COTTON  GROWING 

Do  you  know  that  our  country  produces  three-fourths  of  the 
cotton  of  the  world  ?  Where  is  it  grown  ?  Have  you  heard  the 
story  of  cotton  ?  Let  us  learn  about  it. 

WThile  the  girls  of  Pleasant  Valley  school  waited  for 
the  cotton  toweling  to  come  from  the  store,  they  studied 
about  where  cotton  is  grown.  Cotton  is  the  cheapest 
and  most  important  textile  fiber.  What  does  the  word 
textile  mean  ?  Look  up  the  word  in  the  school  diction- 
ary. More  clothing  is  made  from  cotton  than  from 
any  other  fiber. 

Where  does  cotton  grow?  Perhaps  you  have 
lived  in  the  Southern  States.  Can  you  name  them 
without  looking  at  your  geography  ?  Can  you  tell 
why  it  is  warmer  in  those  states  and  why  cotton  grows 


12 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


so  well  there,  and  not  in  Northern  States  ?  Texas 
produces  more  cotton  than  any  other  state.  In  what 
other  countries  of  the  world  do  you  think  cotton  is 
grown  ?  John  Alden  and  Frank  Allen  heard  the  girls 
studying  about  cotton,  and  they  told  Miss  James 
that  they  thought  the  boys  would  like  to  learn,  too. 
How  cotton  grows.  The  farmer 
plants  the  cotton  seeds  in  rows,  — 
you  have  seen  corn  planted  in  that 
way.  What  color  is  corn  ?  The 
cotton  seeds  do  not  look  like  kernels 
of  corn ;  but  some  are  fuzzy  and 
soft  and  gray  or  green  in  color,  and 
others  are  black  and  smooth.  This 
is  because  there  are  many  varieties 
or  kinds  of  cotton.  Some  grow  to 
be  five  feet  tall  like  corn  ;  others, 
ten  feet  in  height.  The  flowers  are 
yellow  at  first  and  then  turn  brown 
or  purplish  red.  There  are  over  one 
hundred  varieties  of  cotton.  If  you 

across.  ,  , .  r    ,  ,      ' 

do  not  live  near  a  cotton  field,  per- 
haps you  can  ask  some  boy  or  girl  in  your  school  to 
write  to  the  United  States  Department  of  Agricul- 
ture at  Washington.  This  department  will  send  you 
some  cotton  seeds.  Perhaps  you  can  plant  the  seeds 
in  the  school  garden  and  see  if  they  will  grow.  In 
the  South  the  planter  prepares  the  fields  about 
February  and  plants  in  April  or  May.  By  the  mid- 


FIG.  5. — The  flower  and 
leaf  of  the  cotton  plant. 
The  size  of  the  flower 
is  about  four  inches 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  13 

die  of  August,  the  plants  are  five  or  six  feet  high 
and  are  covered  with  fuzzy  little  white  balls,  soft 
and  dry.  The  cotton  fields,  or  plantations  as  they 
are  called,  look  like  fairyland.  In  the  picture  (Fig. 
6)  you  will  see  the  men,  women,  and  children  busy 
picking  the  cotton  and  putting  it  into  baskets.  The 


Courtesy  of  the  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture. 

FIG.  6.  —  Picking  cotton. 

cotton  bolls,  as  they  are  called,  are  brown  and  dry  look- 
ing ;  but  when  ripe,  they  burst,  and  the  woolly  looking 
white  ball  pops  out  of  its  brown  house,  or  shell  (Fig.  7). 
In  each  cotton  boll  there  are  about  thirty  or  forty 
seeds,  and  the  cotton  fibers  are  all  attached  to  these 
seeds.  The  fibers  are  made  into  thread  and  clothing, 
and  the  seeds  are  used  for  many  purposes. 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


Courtesy 
Department  of  Agriculture. 

FIG.      7.    —    Cott 


are  about  the   size 
of  a  small  apple. 


Cotton  fibers  differ.  We  shall  learn 
how  the  fiber  is  pulled  from  the  seeds. 
This  process  is  called  ginning  and  is 
done  by  a  machine.  If  you  have  a 
miscroscope  in  your  school,  look  at  a 
cotton  fiber  under  the  glass.  Miss 
James  will  send  for  some  fibers.  You 
will  see  that  it  looks  like  a  ribbon 
which  has  been  twisted.  The  natural 
twist  helps  very  much  when  cotton  is 
twisted  or  is  manufactured  into  yarn. 
Cotton  is  a  wonderful  little  fiber  and 
bolls  when  burst  varies  in  length  from  \  to  2  inches. 
The  cotton  called  Sea  Island  cotton 
is  the  long  fiber  cotton,  and  is  grown 

near  the  sea,  for  it   needs   the  sea  air.     The   cotton 

called    Upland    grows    away   on   the   uplands   and   is 

shorter.     These  are   the 

principle  kinds  grown  in 

the  United  States. 

The  cotton  seeds  are 

taken    from    the     fiber. 

After   the   pickers    have 

gone  up   and  down  the 

long  rows  and  filled  their 

bags    or    baskets,    they 

empty   the    cotton    into 

wagons   which    carry   it 

tO   the    gin    house,    Where  FIG.  8.  —  Cotton  fibers  magnified. 


LEARNING  TO  SEW 


the  seeds  are  separated  from  the  fibers  and  the  brown 
pieces  of  the  pod  are  blown  away  as  it  is  separated  and 
cleaned.  Long  ago  in  India  and  other  countries, 
cotton  was  ginned  by  hand.  What  a  long  tedious  pro- 
cess, for  only  one  pound  could  be  separated  by  a 
person  in  a  day.  The 
picture  (Fig.  9)  shows  a 
little  girl  at  school  trying 
to  gin  some  cotton  with 
a  little  ginning  machine 
which  she  has  made  at 
school.  While  George 
Washington  was  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States, 
a  man  named  Eli  Whit- 
ney invented  a  machine, 
called  the  saw  gin,  for 
separating  cotton  fibers 
from  the  seed.  This  in- 
vention has  saved  much 
time.  To-day  cotton  is 
all  ginned  by  machinery  ; 
and  so  great  quantities 
can  be  separated  in  a  day.  The  .machine  works  in 
such  a  way  that  the  cotton  fibers  are  pulled  away 
from  the  seeds,  and  the  seeds  are  kept  separate  for 
other  purposes. 

The  cotton  seeds  are  used,  too.     Some  of  the  seeds 
are  kept  for  planting,  just  as  you  keep  corn  and  oats 


Courtesy  of  Speyer  School,  New  York. 

FIG.  9.  —  A  Pleasant  Valley  girl  trying 
to  gin  some  cotton  with  a  little  ginning 
machine  which  she  has  made  at  school. 


i6 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


on  your  farm ;  and  others  are  pressed.  Cottonseed 
oil  comes  from  the  seeds  when  pressed,  and  is  very 
useful  for  many  purposes,  such  as  salad  oil,  soaps, 
cooking  fats,  and  used  for  cattle  feed.  The  seed  is  cov- 
ered with  a  fuzz  which  is  first  removed  and  used  for 
lint.  Then  the  hulls  are  removed,  and  the  dry  cake 


FIG.  10.  —  Bales  of  cotton  on  a  steamboat  dock  ready  for  shipping. 

which  is  left,  after  the  oil  has  been  extracted,  is  also 
used  for  feeding  the  cattle.  Isn't  cotton  a  very  valu- 
able plant  ?  How  poor  we  should  be  without  it,  for 
silk  and  wool  and  linen  cost  so  much  more.  Cotton  is 
the  cheap,  useful  fiber. 

The  cotton  is  baled  and  shipped  to  manufacturers. 
After  cotton  has  been  freed  from  the  seed,  it  is  sent 
to  the  cotton  mills  all  over  the  world  ;  some  in  this 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  17 

country  and  some  in  Europe.  It  is  sent  by  boats  and 
sometimes  by  train.  In  the  picture  (Fig.  10)  you  will 
see  bales  on  the  dock  ready  to  be  shipped.  In  order  to 
ship  it  safely  after  it  is  ginned,  it  is  pressed  into  bales 
like  the  hay  you  have  on  your  farm  ;  and  it  is  covered 
with  coarse  cloth  to  keep  it  clean,  and  is  bound  with 


Cowtesi/  of  United  States  Department  of  Affricultwe. 
FIG.  ii.  —  Bales  of  cotton  from   different  countries.     The    third    from    the   left 
is  the  American  bale.     The  second  is  Egyptian;   the  fourth,  East  Indian. 

iron  bands.  The  American  cotton  bales  weigh  about 
500  pounds.  This  is  the  size  of  a  bale :  54"  X  27" 
X45".  See  if  you  can  measure  off  in  your  school- 
room a  space  which  will  show  the  size  of  the  bale. 
When  these  bales  are  taken  to  the  steamboat  piers, 
they  are  again  made  smaller  by  a  machine,  called  a 


i8  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 

cotton  compress,  which  reduces  them  to  10  inches  in 
thickness.  This  is  so  the  bales  will  not  take  up  so  much 
room  in  being  transported.  Sometimes,  however,  this 
pressing  injures  the  fiber.  The  United  States  ships 
cotton  to  Liverpool,  Bremen,  Havre,  Genoa,  and  many 
other  places.  Can  you  find  these  on  the  map  and  see 
what  a  long  journey  the  cotton  takes  ?  John  Alden 
went  to  the  map  and  traced  the  journey.  He  used 
the  pointer  and  started  from  one  of  the  ports  of 
Louisiana.  Can  you  imagine  which  one  ?  Which  way 
do  you  think  the  steamer  sailed  in  order  to  reach 
England  as  soon  as  possible  r  Perhaps  you  live  near 
a  shipping  port  and  can  go  with  your  teacher  to 
see  the  cotton  loaded  on  the  ships.  Notice  how 
the  bales  are  lowered  into  the  hold.  There  are 
large  exporting  companies  which  take  charge  of  ship- 
ping bales  of  cotton.  What  is  the  difference  between 
import  and  export?  We  import  some  cotton  from 
Egypt,  because  it  is  a  very  long  fibered  cotton  and  is 
good  for  thread,  hosiery,  and  cotton  gloves.  Another 
day  we  shall  study  how  the  manufacturer  at  the  mill 
opens  the  cotton  bale  and  makes  it  into  cloth. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Where  is  cotton  grown  in  the  United   States?     Find  the 
states  on  the  map.     Tell  why  cotton  is  grown  in  these  states. 

2.  Examine  a  cotton  fiber  with  the  microscope.     How  does  it 
look  ?     Draw  a  picture  of  it. 

3.  Look  up  the  story  of  Eli  Whitney's  invention.     Why  was  it 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  19 

LESSON  3 

.THE  HEMMING  STITCH 

Let  us  begin  to  make  the  dish  towels.  What  must  we  think 
about  in  order  to  hem  them  very  neatly  ? 

Why  is  the  hemming  stitch  useful  ?  The  hemming 
stitch  is  a  very  useful  one  to  learn,  for  it  can  be  used 
for  so  many  purposes.  Let  us  learn  on  something 
simple  —  a  dish  towel  or  dish  cloth  for  mother.  Then 
you  can  perhaps  hem  something  for  the  sale  of  your 
Girls'  League.  Mrs.  Oakes  says  she  has  a  dozen  new 
towels  ready  for  Barbara  when  she  learns  how  to  hem. 

The  raw  edges  of  material  would  ravel  unless  turned 
and  hemmed.  The  turning  is  called  a  hem.  It  is 
held  with  a  temporary  stitch  called  basting,  and  then 
with  the  hemming  stitch  which  remains.  If  the  edges 
were  not  hemmed,  the  material  would  ravel  away  or 
look  very  untidy.  The  warp  threads  run  lengthwise 
of  the  cloth.  The  firm  selvedge  is  made  by  the  filling 
thread  passing  around  the  warp  as  the  cloth  is  made. 
It  is  this  filling  thread  which  will  ravel  in  dish  toweling 
or  other  material  unless  a  hem  is  made. 

How  is  the  hemming  stitch  made  ?  This  is  how 
Miss  James  taught  the  girls  of  Pleasant  Valley  to  hem  : 

I.  Turn  hem  of  desired  width.  For  the  towels,  one-fourth  inch 
will  be  about  right  when  finished.  There  are  two  turns  because 
one  would  ravel.  Turn  towards  the  worker.  First,  turn  one- 
eighth  inch  to  wrong  side  of  material.  Second,  turn  one-fourth 
inch,  Turn  and  pinch  to  hold  until  basted. 


2O 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


2.  Baste.     Use   one-fourth  inch    stitches.     No.  8    needle    is    a 
good  size  for  this  work,  and  basting  thread  can  be  used  for  this 


FIG.   12.  — The  basting  stitch. 

temporary  stitch.  Be  sure  to  wear  a  thimble  on  the  middle  finger 
of  the  right  hand.  Little  Alice  Allen  says  she  never  will  learn  to 
use  a  thimble,  but  she  will  if  she  keeps 
on  trying.  The  picture  (Fig.  12)  shows 
the  even  basting  stitch  with  needle  in 
position.  Baste  on  the  edge  of  the  hem. 
Begin  with  a  knot,  and  end  with  two 
tiny  stitches  placed  one  on  top  of  the 
other  to  hold  until  hemmed.  Remem- 
ber basting  is  a  temporary  stitch. 

3.  Hem  the  edge  with  the  hemming 
stitch.  Look  at  the  pictures  (Figs.  13-16) 
and  then  follow  carefully  the  directions. 
Hold  the  cloth  slanting  over  the  fin- 
gers of  the  left  hand,  with  thumb  on  top  (Fig.  13).  Begin  without 
a  knot.  Put  the  needle  up  through  edge  of  hem  and  allow  one 
inch  of  end  of  thread  to  lie  under  the  hem  as  you  pull  thread 
through  (Fig.  14).  This  end  will  be  worked  over  and  held  se- 


LEARNING  TO  SEW 


21 


curely.     Now  you   are   ready  for  the  stitch.     Point  the  needle 
which  is    in  your   right    hand  towards   the   left   shoulder.     The 


FlG.  14.  —  This  shows  how  to  start 
the  hemming. 


FIG.    15.  —  The     hemming    stitch. 
Notice  the  slant  of  the  needle. 


point  of  the  needle  is  passed  first  through  the  cloth  under  the 
edge   of  the   hem,  with  a  tiny  stitch  which  shows  on  the  right 


22 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


side.     The  needle,  at    the  same  time,   catches   the   edge   of  the 
basted    hem.     This  makes    a   tiny  slanting   stitch   on   the    right 

side,  so :  /.  The  next  stitch  is 
taken  about  one-sixteenth  of  an 
inch  from  the  first,  in  exactly 
the  same  way.  As  the  thread 
carries  from  one  stitch  to  the 
next,  it  makes  a  slanting  line 
on  the  wrong,  or  hem,  side  but 
in  the  opposite  direction  from 

I  JK^^^^  ^v  tne    stitch    which    shows   on   the 

\?\r  A  right  side.     It  slants  like  this  :  \ 

^  \  I  y 

Together  these  two  make  this  :  / 

The  part  marked  I  shows  on  the 
right  side  of  the  cloth ;  and  2  on 
the  wrong,  where  the  hem  is 
turned  (Fig.  15).  When  the  end 
of  hem  is  reached,  fasten  with 
two  or  three  tiny  stitches.  If 
the  thread  breaks,  ravel  out  a 
few  stitches  and  let  the  old  end 
of  thread  lie  under  the  hem.  The 
new  thread  can  then  be  started 
as  at  the  beginning  by  putting 
needle  in  the  hole  of  last  stitch. 
There  will  be  two  ends  under  the 
hem  to  work  over.  The  picture 
(Fig.  1 6)  shows  how  to  join  a  new 

Find  out  how  many  places  the  hemming  stitch  can  be 
Try  it  at  home  on  something  before  next  lesson. 


FIG.  16.  —  The  hemming  stitch. 
ing  a  new  thread. 

thread 
used. 


Start- 


When  this  stitch  has  been  well  learned,  it  will  be  pos- 
sible for  the  Girls'  Sewing  League  to  make  many  things. 


LEARNING  TO  SEW 


EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Practice  turning  hems  neatly  on   a  scrap   of  cloth  before 
starting  to  turn  them  on  the  dish  towel. 

2.  Study  the  pictures  carefully  so  as  to  have  the  stitch  exactly 
the  right  slant. 

3.  Practice  hemming  on  a  scrap  of  cloth  for  a  few  stitches  before 
beginning  the  towel. 

LESSON  4 

THE  STITCHING  STITCH 
Shall  we  try  to  make  a  potholder  and  learn  another  new  stitch  ? 

Holders  are  very  useful  to  the  housekeeper.  Mrs. 
Stark  has  a  bag  with  pockets  hanging  near  the  kitchen 
stove  and  says  it  makes 
such  a  convenient  place  to 
keep  holders,  for  they  are 
always  at  hand  ready  for 
use.  They  can  be  made 
many  sizes.  For  the  cook- 
ing class  at  school,  it  is 
convenient  for  each  girl  to 
have  a  holder  on  a  tape 
attached  to  the  band  of 
her  apron  (Fig.  17).  It  is 
always  with  her,  then,  for 
use.  This  can  be  done  by  making  a  loop  at  the  end 
of  the  tape  and  slipping  the  holder  through  the 
loop.  A  hand  towel  attached  at  the  same  place  is 
convenient,  too. 


FIG.  17. —  The  holder. 


24  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

Planning,  cutting,  and  basting  the  holders.  Holders 
can  be  made  from  old  scraps  of  woolen  cloth,  from  either 
pieces  of  garments  which  have  been  worn  and  cast 
aside,  or  new  scraps  from  the  piece  bag.  Six  inches 
square  is  a  good  size.  Place  several  squares,  one  on 
top  of  the  other,  according  to  the  thickness  of  the 
cloth.  Can  you  tell  why  wool  makes  a  better  holder 
than  cotton  ?  For  appearance  we  can  cover  the  holder 
with  some  pretty  piece  of  chintz  or  cretonne  ;  perhaps 
you  have  in  the  piece  bag  some  pieces  which  are  large 
enough.  Denim  is  strong  for  a  covering.  A  piece 
of  asbestos  might  be  placed  inside.  Why  ?  Pin  all 
these  thicknesses  together,  with  a  cover  top  and  bottom. 
Now  baste  from  corner  to  corner  and  from  side  to  side. 
This  is  good  practice.  Make  basting  stitches  of  even 
length  such  as  you  made  on  the  towels.  Then  baste 
carefully  all  around  the  four  sides  so  that  the  edges  are 
held  securely.  We  are  going  to  bind  the  edge  to  pre- 
vent it  from  raveling  and  to  make  it  strong.  Tape 
is  good  for  binding ;  and  so  is  a  bias  strip  of  the  cre- 
tonne cover,  or  of  a  pretty  contrasting  color.  What 
does  contrasting  mean  ? 

Cutting  and  placing  a  bias  strip.  Can  you  learn 
to  cut  a  true  bias  strip  of  cloth  ?  You  have  learned 
that  the  warp  threads  are  the  strong  threads  of  the 
cloth  and  run  lengthwise  of  the  material.  To  prepare 
to  cut  a  true  bias  strip  (Fig.  18),  fold  the  warp  of 
the  cloth  over  so  that  the  warp  threads  lie  exactly  on 
the  filling  threads.  The  fold  is  a  true  bias  edge.  Cut 


LEARNING  TO  SEW 


through  the  fold.     A  true  bias  edge  is  made  by  cutting 

a  square  from  corner  to  corner.     Does  it  cut  the  warp 

or  the  filling  threads  ?     To  make  one-inch  strips  for 

binding  the  holder,  measure  at  right  angles  to  the  fold 

you  have  just  cut.     Make  a  dot,  and  rule  a  light  line 

which  will  be  one  inch  from  the  cut  edge.     These  are 

true  bias  strips.     Baste  the  strip 

or  tape  carefully  around  the  four 

sides  of  the  holder,  and  allow  a 

little  fullness  at  the  corner.     The 

edge  of  the  strip  or  tape  should 

be  even  with   the   edge   of  the 

holder,  and   the  basting  should 

be  one-fourth  of  an   inch  from 

the  edge  in  a  straight  line  for  a 

guide  for  the  next  stitch.     Miss 

James  showed  the  girls  how  to 

turn    the    corners    by   taking   a 

tiny  plait. 

Making  the  stitching  stitch.  Now  we  are  ready  for 
a  new  strong  stitch.  It  is  called  stitching  stitch,  for 
it  is  used  where  machine  stitching  might  be  used,  and 
resembles  it  in  appearance  on  the  right  side.  Ask 
your  Grandmother  if  she  remembers  when  there  were 
no  sewing  machines  and  all  Grandfather's  shirts  were 
stitched  by  hand  ?  Grandmother  Allen  and  Grand- 
mother Stark  of  Pleasant  Valley  remember. 

Look  at  the  picture  (Fig.  19)  and  follow  the  direc- 
tions carefully,  and  you  will  be  able  to  make  this 


FIG.  18.  —  Cutting  a  true  bias 


26  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

stitch.  It  is  started  with  two  or  three  tiny  stitches, 
one  over  the  other  for  strength.  The  row  of  stitches 
you  are  to  make  should  be  in  a  straight  line  just  below 
the  straight, row  of  basting  stitches.  Hold  the  cloth 
in  the  same  way  as  for  hemming,  with  the  material 
over  the  fingers  and  the  thumb  on  top.  Now  you 
are  ready  to  make  the  new-  stitch.  The  stitch  is 
started  at  the  right-hand  end  of  the  cloth.  Make  a 


FIG.  19.  —  The  stitching  stitch. 

stitch  back  over  the  two  starting  stitches  and  carry 
the  needle  forward  twice  the  length  of  this  starting 
stitch.  You  will  have  a  tiny  space  on  the  right  side 
between  the  place  where  the  needle  comes  up  and  the 
end  of  the  starting  stitch.  Each  time  your  thread 
should  fill  this  space,  for  your  needle  should  go  back 
into  the  end  of  the  last  stitch  and  twice  the  length 
forward  on  the  opposite  side  as  it  comes  up.  See  the 
needle  in  the  picture  (Fig.  19).  Notice  the  space. 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  27 

Look  at  your  work.  What  is  the  appearance  of  the 
stitch  on  the  wrong  side  ?  On  the  right  side  ?  This 
stitch  is  also  called  the  backstitch.  Why  ? 

Finishing  the  holder.  Make  a  row  of  stitching 
stitches  all  around  the  edge  of  the  holder,  holding  the 
binding  securely.  Be  careful  to  catch  the  corners 
well.  Remove  your  basting  stitches.  Turn  the  tape 
or  strip  over  to  the  other  side  of  the  holder  and  baste. 
If  you  have  used  a  bias  strip,  the  edge  must  be  turned 
under  one-fourth  of  an  inch  or  more  before  basting. 
This  edge  is  to  be  held  with  the  hemming  stitch.  I 
am  sure  that  you  can  all  make  the  hemming  stitch  by. 
now.  If  you  wish  a  loop  or  long  tape  for  holding  the 
holder,  hem  it  neatly  at  one  side,  turning  in  the  end 
of  the  tape  to  prevent  raveling.  If  you  have  some 
colored  silk  thread,  it  will  look  well  to  make  tiny  stars 
like  this  *  at  the  center  of  the  holder  and  at  four 
places  about  two  inches  from  the  corners  on  the  diag- 
onals. These  will  hold  the  materials  firmly  together. 

Other  uses  for  the  stitching  stitch.  The  stitching 
stitch  can  be  used  for  many  other  purposes.  It  is  a 
strong  stitch  for  seams.  Do  you  know  what  a -seam 
is  ?  Two  pieces  of  cloth  sewed  together  may  form  a 
seam.  Look  for  seams  in  your  skirt,  in  your  sleeve, 
in  your  waist.  Can  you  find  any  ?  Some  one  tell 
the  difference  between  a  hem  and  a  seam.  After  this 
lesson  Mollie  Stark  helped  her  Grandmother  sew  some 
long  seams.  Mr.  Stark's  overalls  had  ripped,  and  the 
sewing  machine  was  being  repaired. 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Practice  cutting  some  bias  strips.     Be  sure  they  are  true  bias 
edges.     How  can  you  tell  ? 

2.  Try  to  make  the  stitching  stitch  on  teacher's  demonstration 
cloth,  with  the  large  needle  and  red  worsted. 

LESSON  5 

THE  OVERHANDING  STITCH 

A  new  game  and  a  new  stitch.  Let  us  make  the  bags  with  the 
new  stitch  before  we  learn  to  play  the  game. 

Perhaps,  instead  of  a  potholder,  you  had  rather 
make  iron  holders  or  bean  bags  for  your  League  Fair. 
Have  you  ever  played  bean  bag  game  ?  The  Pleasant 
Valley  school  children  often  play  this  game  at  recess. 
You  can  easily  make  the  bags  and  also  the  board. 


FIG.  20.  —  The  overhanding  stitch. 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  29 

Making  the  bean  bag.  Bean  bags  can  also  be 
sewed  with  the  stitching  stitch,  as  it  is  strong.  Cut 
the  bags  of  denim  14  X  7  inches,  or  so  as  to  make  a 
bag  7  inches  square.  Fold,  baste  the  edges  on  three 
sides,  sew  them  with  stitching  stitch,  and  turn  inside 
out.  Fill  with  beans.  Two  inches  at  the  middle  of 
one  side  should  not  be  sewed  until  after  the  beans  have 
been  put  in.  Would  you  like  to  learn  the  overhanding 
stitch  for  closing  the  edges  of  that  side  ?  The  two  edges 
of  the  bag  are  turned  in,  and  the  overhanding  stitch  is 
made  on  the  very  edge.  It  is 
a  very  simple  stitch,  and  is 
used  for  sewing  seams  or  edges 
together  firmly.  The  edges 
are  held  in  the  left  hand  be- 
tween the  thumb  and  first 
finger.  The  needle  in  the 
right  hand  is  pointed  straight 

through  towards  the  worker  as  in  the  picture  (Fig. 
20),  and  the  needle  is  passed  through  the  two  edges. 
The  end  of  the  thread  is  drawn  carefully,  and  one- 
half  of  an  inch  allowed  to  lie  on  the  edge.  This  is 
worked  over.  The  needle  is  pointed  with  each  stitch 
towards  the  worker,  and  the  stitches  are  placed  about 
one-eighth  of  an  inch  apart.  Be  very  careful  to  catch 
both  edges,  but  do  not  make  your  stitches  too  deep. 
The  overhanding  stitch  is  a  strong  stitch  and  is  easy  to 
make.  It  is  finished  by  working  backwards  from  left  to 
right  on  the  edge  with  three  or  four  of  the  same  stitches. 


0        O 

"  O  " 
n 


30  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 

Playing  the  bean  bag  game.  The  boys  will  surely 
wish  to  help  prepare  the  board  for  the  bean  bag  game. 
Frank  Allen  and  John  Alden  made  the  one  used  at 
Pleasant  Valley  school.  Perhaps  there  is  an  old  box 
somewhere  which  can  be  braced  with  sticks  and  made 
to  stand  slanting.  The  bottom  of  the  box  will  have 


Courtesy  of  Mrs.  E.  J .  Esselstyn. 
FIG.  22.  —  John  Alden's  little  brother  trying  for  a  high  score. 

to  be  cut  in  holes  (see  Fig.  21).  Each  hole  can  be  a 
different  shape  and  numbered  5,  10,  25,  or  50.  The 
object  of  the  game  is  to  see  how  high  a  score  can  be 
obtained  by  throwing  the  bags  through  the  holes.  One 
should  stand  six  feet  or  more  from  the  board.  Each 
should  have  ten  turns.  Some  one  must  keep  the  score. 
The  boys  will  have  to  help  saw  or  whittle  to  get  the 
holes  just  right.  Do  you  think  you  can  make  both 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  31 

the  bags  and  the  game  board  ?     The  picture  (Fig.  22) 
shows  John  Alden's  little  brother  playing  the   game. 

EXERCISES   AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Try  to  make  the  bean  bag  board.     Perhaps  you  can  think  of 
an  easier  way. 

2.  Find  five  places  where  the  overhanding  stitch  is  used  and 
report  at  the  next  lesson. 

LESSON  6 
PLANNING  TO  MAKE  AN  APRON 

The  girls  of  Pleasant  Valley  school  decided  to  make  caps  and 
aprons.  They  help  every  day  with  the  preparation  of  the  school 
lunch.  The  aprons  will  keep  their  dresses  clean,  so  the  girls  will 
look  neat  and  tidy.  The  aprons  can  also  be  used  at  home.  Let 
us  too  learn  how  to  cut  them  carefully. 

The  samples  which  Marjorie  Allen  brought  from  the 
store  have  been  examined  and  studied  carefully.  The 
girls  know  now  the  difference  in  appearance  between 
percales,  calicos,  ginghams,  chambrays,  and  also  how 
much  they  cost.  Most  of  the  girls  "have  decided  to 
make  pink  and  white,  or  blue  and  white,  checked  aprons 
of  gingham.  It  costs  12^  cents  a  yard  ;  and  the  girls 
require  from  two  and  one-half  to  three  yards,  accord- 
ing to  size.  They  are  to  make  their  own  pattern  for 
the  aprons,  as  they  are  so  simple.  When  they  make 
the  petticoats  for  the  Fresh  Air  children,  they  will 
learn  to  use  a  commercial  pattern. 

Cutting  the  skirt  part.  Each  girl  will  need  two 
lengths  for  the  skirt  part  of  the  apron,  measuring  from 


CLOTHING   AND   HEALTH 


the  armhole  at  chest,  to  the  desired  length.  No 
pattern  is  necessary  for  this  skirt  part.  On  each  length 
allow  four  inches  extra  for  hem.  Tear  one  length, 
lengthwise  ;  be  careful  not  to  tear  it  crosswise  of  the 
material.  The  two  pieces  torn  down  are  to  be  placed 
one  on  each  side  of  the  whole  width,  with  selvedges 
together. 

Planning  the  pattern  for  the  yoke.  Now  the  yoke 
pattern  is  to  be  made.  Miss  James  helped  the  Pleas- 
ant Valley  girls  with  the  patterns.  You  will  need  a 

good-sized  piece  of  paper, 
pencil,  and  a  tapeline. 
Measure  the  width  of 
chest  from  side  to  side, 
just  at  the  armhole  in 
front.  Look  at  diagram 
(Fig.  23)  ;  this  measure 
is  the  bottom  of  the  yoke. 
Draw  a  line  the  length  of  chest  measure  across  the  bot- 
tom of  your  paper.  Measure  up  six  inches,  and  draw  a 
line  at  right  angles  to  each  end  of  the  chest  line.  This 
is  to  find  the  shoulder.  Draw  a  dotted  line  three 
inches  at  right  angles  to  this,  as  shown  in  the  diagram. 
Then  draw  a  line  three  inches  to  form  a  third  side  of 
the  square.  Do  this  for  the  other  shoulder  and  con- 
nect the  two  lines  with  a  line  parallel  to  the  chest  line. 
You  will  have  a  yoke  three  inches  wide  in  front.  The 
shoulder  lines  are  too  straight ;  so  draw  slanting  lines 
just  a  little  towards  the  outside  or  armhole  side,  taking 


FIG.  23.  —  The  plan  for  the  yoke  of  the 
apron. 


LEARNING  TO  SEW 


33 


off  one-half  inch  on  shoulder  edge.  This  is  the  only 
pattern  needed  ;  for  the  back  pattern  is  exactly  the 
same,  but  is  divided  in  half  and  cut  straight  through 
the  center  for  the  opening  in  back. 

Cutting  the  yoke.  Lay  the  pattern  on  the  cloth 
so  that  the  width  of  chest  line  is  on  the  filling  threads 
of  the  cloth.  Four  pieces  will  be  needed.  Can  you 
double  your  cloth  and  cut 
two  at  once  ?  The  yoke 
is  made  double  of  two 
thicknesses  ;  that  is  why 
we  must  cut  two  pieces 
for  the  back  and  two  for 
the  front.  Cut  the  two 
back  portions  through  the 
center  back,  on  the  thread 
of  material.  Now  our 
aprons  are  all  cut.  Care- 
fully roll  up  the  pieces 
and  material  left,  for  you 
will  need  them  if  you 
make  the  caps. 

Basting  the  skirt  part.  Let  us  make  the  skirt 
of  the  apron  first.  Pin  the  widths  together,  selvedge 
to  selvedge,  to  form  seams.  You  all  know  what  the 
selvedge  is.  Look  in  the  dictionary.  How  is  it  made 
so  firm  ?  The  whole  width  is  for  the  center  front ; 
the  half  width  for  each  side.  Pin  together  and  baste 
one-fourth  inch  seams,  to  within  8  or  9  inches  of  each 

D 


FIG.  24.  —  Four  of  the  Pleasant  Valley 
girls  wearing  their  finished  aprons. 


34  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

length  ;  this  will  be  left  open  under  each  arm.  Baste 
also  one-fourth  inch  hems  at  the  outside  edges  of  the 
side  lengths  which  are  raveling.  Turn  the  hems  to 
the  same  side  as  the  seams,  the  wrong  side.  Now  all 
the  basting  is  done,  and  next  time  we  shall  be  ready 
for  a  new  stitch.  The  picture  (Fig.  24)  shows  some  of 
the  Pleasant  Valley  girls  wearing  their  aprons.  Can 
you  guess  which  is  Mollie  Stark  or  Barbara  Oakes  ? 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Look  up  these  words  in  the  dictionary :  selvedge,  warp,  woof, 
pattern. 

2.  Name  other  materials,  besides  gingham,  suitable  for  work 
aprons. 

LESSON  7 
USING  THE  RUNNING  AND  BACK  STITCH  ON  THE  APRON 

A  new  stitch  called  running  and  back  stitch  is  very  useful  for 
seams  (Fig.  25).  It  is  a  quick  stitch,  and  it  is  strong.  Let  us  learn 
to  make  it  on  the  seams  of  the  aprons.  We  shall  need  it  later 
for  other  things. 

The  apron  seams  are  all  basted  with  one-fourth  inch 
seams.  The  selvedges  have  not  been  removed.  Some 
day  we  shall  learn  to  make  a  seam  which  will  be  sewed 
twice,  and  then  we  shall  remove  the  selvedges.  A 
seam  made  with  one  sewing  is  called  a  plain  seam. 
The  basting  is  only,  a  temporary  stitch. 

To  sew  seams.  Hold  the  material  in  the  left  hand 
over  the  fingers,  with  thumb  on  top.  You  will  sew 


LEARNING  TO   SEW 


35 


from  right  to  left.  Start  with  two  or  three  tiny  stitches, 
one  over  the  other,  without  knot.  Pull  needle  through 
after  the  starting  stitches.  Now  take  two  or  three 
tiny  running  stitches  ;  they  are  like  basting,  only  much 
smaller.  As  you  make  the  running  stitches,  the  last 
one  is  to  be  twice  the  length  of  the  others  as  the  needle 
is  pulled  through.  This  is  because  the  next  stitch  is 
to  be  backwards  —  a  backstitch  to  cover  half  the  space. 


V 


FIG.  25.  —  A  new  stitch  called  the  running  and  back  stitch. 

On  the  side  towards  you,  your  row  of  stitches  should 
look  like  running  stitches ;  on  the  wrong  side,  it 
will  be  different  because  of  the  backstitch.  You 
should  have  the  stitches  in  a  straight  row  under  the 
line  of  basting.  The  backstitch,  which  covers  half 
the  space  left  by  the  running,  is  twice  the  length  of 
the  running  stitch  on  the  wrong  side.  This  will  bring 
the  needle  up  ahead  of  the  stitch  and  ready  for  the 
next  group  of  running  stitches.  Both  seams  of  the 
skirt  of  the  apron  are  to  be  sewed  to  within  8  or  9 


36  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

inches  under  the  arm.  Finish  with  three  tiny  stitches, 
one  over  another.  Remove  bastings,  and  press  open 
the  seams.  Can  you  not  take  this  home  and  sew  the 
other  long  seam  there,  now  that  you  know  how ;  or 
can  you  not  do  it  at  the  meeting  of  the  Sewing  League  ? 
The  girls  of  Pleasant  Valley  did.  Sometimes  they 
sat  under  the  big  oak  trees  on  Friday  afternoons  and 
had  their  sewing  lessons  outdoors. 

To  hem  sides.  Hem  sides  of  apron  which  you 
have  basted,  making  small  stitches.  You  know  how. 

To  hem  bottom  of  apron.  Turn  hem  at  bottom  of 
apron.  The  cloth  should  be  even.  Four  inches  were 

•  allowed.  The  first  turn 

may  be  one-fourth  of  an 
inch ;  the  second,  three 
^ a_IM  v  and  one-half  inches.  The 

FIG.  26. -A  gauge  for  the  apron  hem.        Other      Quarter      inch      al- 

lowed  is  for  gathering  at 

top  of  apron.  Pin  carefully  and  measure,  with  a 
tapeline  or  a  gauge.  Can  you  make  a  gauge  ?  A  piece 
of  cardboard  with  a  notch  for  one  or  three  inches  ac- 
cording to  measure  desired,  is  a  gauge.  The  diagram 
(Fig.  26)  shows  how  to  cut  a  one-inch  gauge.  Can 
you  make  a  three-inch  gauge,  and  keep  your  hems 
even  by  following  the  marked  notch  ?  Baste  hems 
carefully  after  pinning.  Hem  neatly. 

To  gather  the  top  of  apron.  You  are  now  ready  to 
gather  the  top  of  the  widths.  They  are  to  fit  into  the 
yoke  ;  and,  as  they  are  too  wide,  we  shall  have  to  make 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  37 

them  fit.  Gathering  is  done  by  making  two  rows  of 
running  stitches  (small  basting  stitches),  one  under 
the  other.  This  is  done  on  each  width  with  the  rows 
of  running  stitches  one-fourth  of  an  inch  apart.  Begin 
with  a  knot  and  have  your  thread  a  little  longer  than 
the  width  you  are  gathering.  You  can  then  draw  the 
material  on  the  gathering  threads,  and  make  it  fit  the 
yoke. 

Let  us  put  the  finished  skirts  of  the  apron  away 
neatly,  and  next  lesson  sew  on  the  yokes. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Make  a  three  and  one-half  inch  gauge,  using  a  piece  of  card- 
board or  a  stiff  paper. 

2.  Practice  gathering  on  a  practice  piece  of  cloth.     See  how 
quickly  you  can  do  it,  putting  in  two  even  rows. 

LESSON  8 

MAKING  AND  ATTACHING  THE  APRON  YOKES 

The  yokes  are  to  be  seamed  at  the  shoulders.  There  are  two 
yokes ;  one  is  for  the  lining.  Let  us  sew  them  together  and  attach 
them  to  the  skirt  of  the  apron. 

To  make  the  yoke.  Pin  the  two  back  portions  of 
yoke  to  the  one  front  portion.  Baste  at  shoulder 
seams  one-fourth  of  an  inch.  Sew  with  running  and 
back  stitch,  which  you  used  for  the  apron  skirt. 

Make  the  lining  yoke  in  same  way.  Sew  two  back 
portions  to  one  front. 


50557 


38  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 

When  both  yoke  and  lining  are  ready,  pin  together 
so  that  the  two  right  sides  are  together  and  seams  match 
at  shoulders.  Baste  carefully  together  all  around  with 
one-fourth  inch  seams  only,  except  across  the  bottom 
at  width  of  chest  line.  Be  careful  not  to  take  deeper 
seams,  for  then  the  yoke  will  be  too  small.  The  chest 
line  width  of  the  yoke  is  left  open  so  the  skirt  can  be 
placed  between.  The  back  portions  of  the  yoke 
are  also  left  open  at  the  bottom.  After  basting, 
sew  below  the  basting  with  running  and  back  stitch. 
Remove  the  bastings  and  turn  the  yoke  inside  out. 
Crease  edges  carefully.  Your  yoke  will  lap  one-half 
inch  in  back  when  finished.  Now  you  are  ready  to 
attach  the  skirt  to  the  yoke. 

To  attach  the  yoke.  You  will  attach  the  front  of 
the  yoke  to  the  front  gathered  width.  Find  the 
center  of  front  yoke.  Mark  with  pin.  Find  the 
center  of  gathered  width.  Place  the  right  side  of  the 
yoke  to  the  right  side  of  the  skirt  width,  center  to 
center;  and  pin.  Do  not  pin  the  lining  yoke,  for  it 
is  to  be  sewed  down  later  to  cover  the  seam  you  will 
now  make.  Pin  the  ends  of  the  width  to  the  ends  of  the 
front  yoke.  Pull  your  gathering  thread  until  the  full- 
ness fits  the  yoke ;  then  move  the  gathers  along  until 
they  fall  evenly.  Can  you  not  distribute  the  gathers 
carefully,  as  you  pin  them  to  the  yoke  ?  Hold  the 
gathers  towards  you,  and  baste  with  a  one-fourth  inch 
seam,  not  any  more.  Now  sew  securely  with  the  strong 
stitching  stitch,  which  you  used  on  the  bean  bags. 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  39 

To  place  the  yoke  lining.  You  are  ready  now  to 
cover  these  rough  edges  of  the  seam  with  the  lining. 
Turn  in  one-fourth  of  an  inch  to  match  the  width  of 
the  seam  taken  from  the  yoke.  Baste  flat  to  the  seam 
so  that  the  edge  of  the  turned  lining  just  covers  the 
sewing  of  the  yoke  seam.  Finish  with  a  neat  hemming 
stitch. 

Do  you  not  think  you  can  join  the  two  back  portions 
of  the  yoke  to  the  skirt  portions  of  the  apron  without 
any  further  help  ? 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Find  three  places  where  you  think  running  and  back  stitch 
can  be  used. 

2.  Notice  other  places  where  gathers  are  drawn  in  to  fit  a  space. 
Mollie  Stark  discovered  several  places  on  the  garments  worn  by  the 
children  at  school. 

LESSON  9 

HOW  TO  MAKE  A  BUTTONHOLE 

The  apron  is  now  entirely  finished,  except  for  fastenings.  Shall 
we  learn  to  make  a  buttonhole,  and  how  to  sew  on  buttons  ? 
The  Pleasant  Valley  girls  had  a  contest.  Barbara  Oakes  won  a 
prize  at  the  Pleasant  Valley  County  Fair. 

Practice  in  making  the  buttonhole.  Long  ago 
little  girls  were  taught  to  make  buttonholes,  when 
they  were  five  or  six  years  of  age.  Grandmother  Allen 
learned  at  that  age.  Surely  by  the  time  a  girl  is  twelve 
years  old  she  should  begin  to  learn  how  to  make 
buttonholes.  One  must  practice  on  a  scrap  of  cloth, 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


before  making  the  buttonhole  on  the  garment, 
are  the  steps  to  consider  in  practicing  : 


These 


1.  Decide  about  placing  the  buttonhole.      Is  it  to  be  in  a  vertical 
or  horizontal  position  on  the  garment  ?     How  far  from  the  edge  ? 

2.  Cutting. 

3.  Overcasting  the  cut  edges.     How  deep  and  how  far  apart  to 
take  the  stitches.     Correct  position  to  hold  work. 

4.  Making  buttonhole  stitch  along'one  edge. 

5.  Turning  corner. 

6.  Turning  and  buttonholing  opposite  edge. 

7.  Finishing  second  end. 

Placing  the  buttonhole.  It  is  important  to  place 
the  buttonhole  correctly.  In  some  garments,  where 
there  is  no  strain,  as  in  the  front 
of  a  shirtwaist  or  of  loose  corset 
cover,  the  buttonholes  can  be 
made  to  run  up  and  down.  One 
should  decide  how  far  from  the 
edge  and  exactly  where  the  but- 
tonhole is  needed.  Mark  the 
place  with  pinholes.  For  the 
apron  place  three  buttonholes 
in  the  yoke,  one  in  middle  and 
others  near  each  end,  about  one- 
fourth  inch  from  the  edge  of  the 


YIG.  27.  —  Cutting  the  button- 
hole. 


.  yoke  at  center  back. 
Cutting  the  buttonhole.     One  should  cut  truly  and 
exactly,  on  a  thread.     If  a  pair  of  buttonhole  scissors  is 
not  available,  fold  the  material  halfway  between  the  pin 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  41 

pricks  which  marked  its  location,  so  that  the  pin  passes 
through  both  ends  of  the  located  buttonhole.  Cut 
from  the  folded  edge  to  the  pin,  by  placing  the  fold  well 
within  the  opened  scissors  and  cutting  evenly  (Fig.  27). 
For  the  apron  cut  one-half  inch  buttonholes  and  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch  in  from  the  edge. 

Overcasting    the    buttonhole.      You    have    not    all 
learned  the  overcasting  stitch.     Practice  it  on  a  scrap 


FIG.  28.  —  The  overcasting  stitch  for  rough  edges. 

of  cloth.  Look  at  the  picture  (Fig.  28)  carefully. 
The  overcasting  stitch  is  used  on  edges  to  prevent 
raveling.  Hold  the  buttonhole  along  the  top  of  the 
first  finger.  Begin  without  knot,  and  at  the  end 
farthest  away  from  a  finished  edge ;  as  at  the  end  of 
skirt  band  or  edge  of  waist.  Work  over  end  of  thread. 
Point  needle  toward  left  shoulder  to  make  a  slanting 
stitch.  Make  about  three  or  four  stitches  on  each 


42  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

side  of  the  buttonhole  (Fig.  29).  The  depth  should 
be  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch.  The  corner  stitches 
should  be  taken  so  that  the  needle  is  pointed  at  right 
angles  to  the  cut  before  the  buttonhole  is  turned. 
Do  not  forget  that,  after  one  side  is  overcast,  it  is 
necessary  to  turn  the  buttonhole  around  so  the  other 
cut  edge  may  be  overcast. 


FIG.  29.  —  Overcasting  the  cut  buttonhole. 

Making  the  buttonhole  stitch.  When  the  button- 
hole has  been  overcast,  the  needle  should  be  in  position 
at  the  beginning  of  the  buttonhole  where  the  overcast- 
ing was  started.  Point  the  needle  at  right  angles  to 
the  edge,  and  take  a  stitch  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep 
(Fig.  30).  Hold  buttonhole  so  that  it  lies  flat  on  top 
of  the  first  finger.  Do  not  spread  it  open.  Throw 
the  double  thread  from  the  eye  of  the  needle,  around 
the  point,  in  the  same  direction  as  the  buttonhole  is 
being  worked,  from  right  to  left.  Draw  needle  through, 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  43 

pulling  the  thread  at  right  angles  to  and  toward 
the  cut  edge  of  the  buttonhole.  A  little  finishing 
loop  called  the  purl  will  be  formed  at  the  edge. 
It  is  this  which  prevents  the  edge  of  the  button- 
hole from  wearing.  Continue  along  one  edge  until  the 
corner  is  reached.  Remember  all  stitches  are  to-  be 
the  same  depth  and  to  have  about  the  space  of  a  thread 
between  stitches,  and  the  purl  is  to  lie  exactly  on  the 
edge. 


~\    "A --\ 


FIG.  30.  — The  buttonhole  stitch. 

Turning  the  corner.  There  are  several  ways  of  finish- 
ing the  corners  of  buttonholes.  They  may  have  two 
fan  ends,  or  one  fan  and  one  bar,  or  two  barred  ends. 
How  can  we  tell  which  way  to  plan  ?  A  barred  end  is 
stronger  than  one  which  has  only  a  fan.  One  must 
judge  how  the  buttonhole  is  to  be  used,  and  then  make 
the  proper  combination  of  ends.  The  picture  (Fig. 
31)  shows  both  the  fan  and  the  bar.  The  fan  is  made 
with  the  same  buttonhole  stitch.  Five  stitches  make 


44 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


a  good  fan.     The  third  one  is  taken  on  a  line  with  the 
cut  and  is  the  deepest,  and  the  two  stitches  each  side 

are  slanting  and  of  a  depth 
to  make  an  even  fan  effect 
at  the  turn.  The  fan  can 
be  made  more  easily  by  turn- 
ing the  buttonhole  so  that 
the  end  to  be  worked  with 
the  fen  is  pointed  towards 
the  worker  and  the  cut  edge 
is  over  the  finger. 

Buttonholing  second  side. 
After  making  the  fan,  turn 
the  buttonhole,  and  along 
the  second  side  make  the 
buttonhole  stitch  of  the 
same  depth  and  evenness 
as  along  the  first  side. 

Finishing  second  end. 
Practice  a  bar  end.  Turn 
buttonhole  so  that  the  end 
to  be  finished  lies  across 
finger  with  fan  end  towards 
the  worker.  Make  two  or 
three  small  stitches  one 
over  the  other  to  bar  the 
end,  these  to  extend  across  width  of  buttonhole  stitches. 
Over  these  the  blanket  stitch  is  to  be  placed.  This 
is  very  easy.  Look  at  the  picture  (Fig.  82)  of  it 


FIG.  31.  — The  fan  end  and  the  ba 
end  of  the  buttonhole. 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  45 

on  page  138.  These  stitches  are  to  be  taken  close 
together  and  through  the  cloth,  around  the  three 
barred  stitches.  This  makes  a  firm  finish.  Point 
the  needle  towards  the  worker  and  make  a  straight 
row  of  blanket  stitches. 

Sewing  on  a  button.  Start  with  a  double 
thread,  and  make  two  stitches  one  over  the 
other  on  the  right  side  of  the  garment.  String 
a  button  on  the  needle,  to  cover  starting 
stitches.  Place  a  pin  on  top  of  the  button.  FIG.  32.— 
Sew  over  it  with  stitches  crossed  back  and  prevents 
forth  through  the  holes  of  the  button.  The  the  bllt' 
stitches  should  be  taken  so  that  the  pull  of  s°e  i "  B 
the  button  will  come  on  the  warp  threads  of  sewed '?" 

r  near    the 

the  garment.  On  the  wrong  side,  the  stitches  doth  and 
should  appear  in  parallel  bars  lying  on  the  Ip^lol 
woof  or  filling  thread.  On  the  top  of  the  button- 
button,  the  stitches  should  cross.  Why  is  it  £«»«*.' 
necessary  to  sew  over  the  pin  ?  Remove  the 
pin  and  wind  thread  around  the  stitches  under  the 
button.  Finish  on  wrong  side  with  several  finishing 
stitches. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Practice  overcasting. 

2.  Practice  blanket  stitch. 

3.  Practice  making  buttonhole. 

a.  Cutting.  d.  Fan. 

b.  Overcasting.  e.  Buttonholing. 

c.  Buttonholing.  /.  Bar. 


46  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

4.  Practice  sewing  on  one  button   at  home  and  making  one 
buttonhole. 

5.  Bring  to  school  garments  which   need   buttons.     Sew  the 
buttons  on. 

LESSON  10 

THE  USE  OF  THE  COMMERCIAL  PATTERN 

Have  you  ever  bought  a  real  pattern  and  tried  to  use  it  ?  Mar- 
jorie  Allen  says  she  thinks  sometimes  it  is  quite  like  a  puzzle.  Let 
us  learn  how  to  cut  our  petticoats  from  a  real  pattern. 

Can  you  cut  a  pattern  ?  Perhaps  you  have  cut  pat- 
terns for  sister's  dolls'  clothing  (Fig.  33).  This  is  prob- 
ably how  you  did  it.  You 
pinned  the  paper  to  the 
doll's  body  or  held  it  in 
place  while  you  cut  around 
the  armhole,  across  the 
shoulder,  under  the  chin 
for  the  curved  neck,  and 
then  you  cut  the  other 
shoulder  and  armhole  in 
the  same  way.  Under  the 
arm  you  made  a  slanting 
I//'  cut  towards  the  feet  so 

FIG.  33.  — Learning  to  cut  a  free-hand     the    drCSS   Or    apron   WOuld 
pattern.  t  »  i  i 

be  wider  at  the  bottom. 

Try  this  if  you  have  never  done  it.  It  is  good  fun. 
Marjorie  dressed  a  doll  for  little  Alice  when  she  was 
sick,  and  Cut  the  pattern  in  this  way.  This  is  a  free 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  47 

and  easy  way  to  make  patterns.  Some  dressmakers 
make  patterns  in  this  way  and  do  not  have  to  send 
to  the  store  for  a  pattern. 

Shall  we  send  for  a  pattern  ?  Patterns  are  bought 
by  age  or  by  measure :  a  nightdress,  drawers,  or  a 
skirt  pattern  is  ordered  for  fourteen  year  age ;  a  shirt- 
waist for  34  inch  bust  measure.  Patterns  sometimes 
give  other  measures ;  a  dress  skirt  may  state  the 
waist  measure,  the  length  of  skirt,  and  the  measure 
around  the  hips.  For  children  and  for  young  girls, 
the  patterns  can  nearly  always  be  bought  according 
to  age ;  but,  as  some  girls  are  large  for  their  age  and 
some  small,  Miss  James  will  have  to  help  order  the 
right  sizes. 

Many  good  magazines  offer  patterns  for  sale.  There 
are,  also,  stores  or  firms  which  make  a  business  of  sell- 
ing nothing  but  patterns.  Some  patterns  are  better 
than  others.  The  simplest  are  usually  the  best,  if 
the  figure  and  its  proportions  have  been  kept  in  mind. 

Let  us  open  our  skirt  pattern.  We  have  bought 
two:  one  a  1 2-year  size,  and  one  a  14-year.  The 
smaller  girls  may  use  the  1 2-year  size,  and  the  larger 
girls  the  14-year  size.  How  many  pieces  are  there 
for  this  pattern  ?  Barbara  stood  before  the  class,  and 
Julia  held  the  pieces  where  she  thought  they  would 
belong  in  the  skirt.  Yes,  surely  the  strip  is  for  the 
belt  or  band.  Is  it  long  enough  ?  No,  only  half. 
What  are  the  other  two  pieces  ?  Yes,  one  is  for  the 
back.  Is  it  large  enough  ?  No,  only  half.  Only  one 


48 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


piece  is  left.  It  must  be  the  front.  Is  it  large  enough  ? 
Many  patterns  are  made,  giving  only  half  a  front  or 
half  a  belt.  Such  pieces  must  be  cut  double  when  you 
wish  to  have  the  front  or  belt  in 
one  piece.  The  way  to  do  this  is 
to  pin  the  pattern  on  a  folded 
edge  of  the  cloth.  We  will  know 
if  we  consult  the  perforations  on 
the  pattern,  and  the  printed  di- 
rections. We  must  do  this,  then, 
in  cutting  the  front.  Let  us  hold 
the  pattern  to  the  light.  What 
do  you  see  ?  Why  do  you  sup- 
pose the  little  holes  or  perfo- 
rations have  been  arranged  in 
groups  or  straight  rows  ?  Bar- 
bara said  she  could  not  under- 
stand why.  It  is  all  a  secret 
which  the  description  on  the 
pattern  will  tell.  To-day  we  shall 
learn  two  things : 

i.    How  to  tell  which  portion 
of  the  pattern  is  to  be  placed  on 
the  warp  of  the  cloth. 
2.    When  to  place  the  half  pattern  on  a  folded  edge, 
so  as  to  cut  the  portion  in  one  piece  instead  of  in  half 
a  piece  like  the  pattern. 

The  pattern  may  say  the  long  line  of  single  perfora- 
tions is  to  be  placed  on  the  warp  threads.     Can  you 


FIG.  34- -Laying  the  pattern 
on  the  cloth.     Which  do  you 

think  is  the  fold  edge,  A 
OTS- 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  49 

do  that  when  we  begin  to  cut  ?  You  will  have  to  be 
careful  to  find  the  warp  and  to  lay  the  pattern  exactly. 
The  pattern  may  say  the  group  of  three  little  perfora- 
tions or  holes  at  the  edge  of  the  front  pattern  means 
that  edge  is  to  be  placed  on  a  straight  fold  of  the  cloth. 

It  is  wise  always  to  study  all  the  pieces  of  a  pattern. 
The  parts  are  usually  numbered.  Can  you  see  how  ? 
The  description  on  the  pattern  tells  the  name  of  each 
piece.  Very  often  only  half  of  a  portion  is  given.  You 
will  always  remember  now  what  must  be  done  when 
that  occurs. 

It  is  a  good  thing  always  to  know  each  portion  and 
to  hold  it  up  to  the  person  to  see  if  it  is  too  large  or 
too  small.  Then  you  will  understand  the  parts,  before 
you  begin  to  cut.  Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  add  to 
the  length  or  to  shorten  the  pattern.  Some  patterns 
say  allow  for  seams  in  cutting,  and  others  say  seams 
have  been  allowed.  What  difference  will  this  make 
when  you  begin  to  cut  ? 

Shall  we  learn  to  take  a  few  measurements  ? 
Then  we  can  judge  if  our  pattern  is  too  large  or 
too  small.  It  will  also  help  you  in  sending  for 
patterns. 

The  bust  measure  is  easy  to  take.  Pass  the  tape 
measure  under  the  arms,  and  over  the  fullest  part  of 
the  bust,  not  too  tight ;  bring  it  to  the  center  of  the 
back,  sloping  the  tape  slightly  upward  betwee'n  the 
shoulder  blades. 

The  waist  measure  is  a  snug  measure   around  the 


50  CLOTHING   AND   HEALTH 

smallest    part    of  the   waist.     For   girls  this  measure 
should  not  be  too  snug. 

The  skirt  measures  are  taken  from  the  waist  line  to 
the  floor  at  the  front,  at  the  sides  over  the  hips,  and 
at  the  back.  For  short  skirts  one  must  deduct  from 
the  full  lengths  the  number  of  inches  desired  from  the 
floor. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Open  a  pattern  and  see  if  you  can  tell  the  different  parts. 
Which  are  to  be  cut  on  a  folded  edge  ?     How  are  you  to  tell  which 
way  the  pattern  is  to  lie  on  the  warp  threads  ? 

2.  Practice  taking  a  skirt  measure ;   then,  a  waist  measure. 

LESSON  ii 

TAKING   MEASUREMENTS    AND    CUTTING   OUT   THE    PETTICOAT 

We  understand  our  skirt  patterns.  Let  us  take  our  skirt 
measures,  front  and  back,  and,  if  it  is  necessary  to  change  our 
pattern,  we  will  decide  how  much  to  add  or  take  off  before  cutting 
the  garments. 

To  change  pattern.  If  you  must  add  two  or  three 
inches  to  the  length  of  your  pattern,  this  must  be  done 
as  you  cut.  Or  possibly  you  may  wish  to  shorten  the 
pattern.  If  you  wish  to  shorten  it,  take  a  plait  of  one 
inch  about  in  the  middle  of  your  pattern,  crease,  and 
pin  it.  By  taking  .this  plait  rather  than  cutting  off 
the  amount  from  the  bottom,  the  good  flare  of  the 
skirt  is  saved.  Do  you  know  what  these  pieces  of  the 
skirt  are  called  which  are  wider  at  the  bottom  than 


LEARNING  TO  SEW 


at  the  top  ?  Why  is  a  gore  made  such  a  shape  ?  Can 
you  think  of  the  advantages  ?  In  cutting  from  a 
pattern  in  which  a  plait  has  been  laid,  one  must  be 
careful  to  carry  the  outline  of  the  pattern  evenly  at 
the  place  where  the  fold  of  the  plait  comes. 

To  lengthen  a  pattern.  Make  a  straight  cut  across 
a  gore  about  the  middle  from  side  to  side.  Pin  or 
paste  a  strip  of  paper  the 
desired  extra  length  be- 
tween the  two  pieces. 
This  preserves  the  bottom 
flare.  If  length  were 
added  at  the  bottom,  the 
flare  would  be  too  great. 

To  cut  the  skirts.  One 
must  study  carefully  the 
economical  use  of  ma- 
terial. It  is  like  a  puzzle 

tO    fit    the    pattern    tO    the     FIG.  35.  — The  petticoat  for  the  children 

cloth,  so   that  the  perfo- 
rations are  obeyed  exactly  and  there  is  enough  cloth 
for  all  the  parts. 

The  girls  of  Pleasant  Valley  have  decided  to  make 
the  petticoats  for  the  children  at  the  summer  home. 
The  ladies  of  the  board  furnished  the  materials.  They 
have  chosen  gingham  for  some  and  outing  flannel  for 
others.  The  belts  are  to  be  made  of  muslin.  The 
material  is  all  one  yard  wide.  By  folding  the  outing 
flannel  selvedge  to  selvedge,  and  placing  the  triple 


52  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

perforations  of  the  pattern  of  the  front  gore  on  this 
fold,  the  front  can  be  cut  all  in  one  piece.  It  is  rather 
a  circular  gore.  Not  all  gores  are  the  same  shape. 
See  if  you  can  find  other  shaped  gores  in  dress  skirts. 
The  two  back  gores  of  the  skirt  can  be  cut  from  an- 
other width.  Be  sure  to  obey  the  directions  for  placing 
the  perforations  on  the  warp.  How  many  lengths  of 
cloth  are  needed  to  cut  such  a  skirt  ?  How  much  will 
you  allow  for  hems  at  the  bottom  ?  As  the  girls  of 
Pleasant  Valley  had  decided  on  two  inches  finished, 
they  allowed  2^  inches  extra  in  cutting.  One  must 
always  think  about  this.  All  seams  have  been  allowed 
on  their  patterns. 

Be  sure  to  lay  all  the  pieces  of  the  pattern  on  the 
cloth  before  cutting.  Find  a  flat  surface.  Remember 
that  the  wide  end  of  a  gore  is  apt  to  cut  to  better 
advantage  at  the  end  of  the  piece  of  cloth.  Can  the 
gores  he  fitted  so  as  to  cut  more  economically  ? 
(Fig.  34.)  Pin  the  parts  carefully,  not  using  too  many 
pins.  Mark  all  the  notches  with  pencil,  chalk,  or 
basting  thread.  Do  not  cut  notches  ;  one  is  liable  to 
be  careless  and  to  make  them  too  large.  Use  long  cuts, 
and  make  even  edges  in  cutting.  Good  shears  help. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Draw  on  the  blackboard  different  shaped  dress  gores  which 
you  have  noticed. 

2.  With  the  tiny  patterns  of  the  skirt  which  your  teacher  has 
cut,  show  how  to  lay  them  most  economically  on  the  red  muslin 
which  represents  your  material. 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  53 

3.  What  would  you  do  if  you  were  using  a  pattern  which  did  not 
allow  for  seams  ? 

LESSON  12 

MAKING   THE    PETTICOATS 

Let  us  begin  to  sew  the  petticoats. 

Notice  all  the  notches  which  were  marked  lightly 
with  pencil,  and  follow  all  the  steps  carefully : 

1.  Place  the  two  back  portions  so  that  they  join 

the  front  as  the  notches  indicate. 

2.  Pin  from  the  top  of  the  gores. 

3.  Baste  the  three  gores  together  with  ^-inch  seams, 

beginning  at  the  bottom.     Can  you  tell  why  ? 

4.  Sew   the   seams   on   the   wrong   side,    using   the 

stitching  stitch.  The  back  seam  is  to  be  left 
open  five  inches  at  the  top  for  the  placket 
opening. 

5.  Overcast  all  the  seam  edges,  overcasting  the  two 

thicknesses  of  the  seams  together. 

6.  Turn  hems  at  the  bottom  of  the  skirt.     First, 

turn  J  inch ;  second,  turn  two  inches.  Baste 
carefully,  laying  little  plaits  neatly  where  neces- 
sary on  account  of  extra  fullness.  Always  have 
the  seams  of  the  turned  hem  lie  on  seams  of 
skirt.  Sew  hem  with  hemming  stitch  or  feather- 
stitch (see  page  120). 

7.  Finish    placket    opening.     On    right    side    make 

^-inch  hem,  the  first  turn  £  and  second  % 
inch.  Turn  hem  to  inside  of  skirt.  Baste 


54  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

and  hem.     On  left  side  of  opening  make  hem  \ 
inch  finished.     Make  first  turn  %  and  second 
J  inch.     Baste  and  hem  neatly. 
8.   To  put  the  skirt  on  the  band  : 

A.  Cut  band.     Take  waist  measure ;    add  to  it 

one  inch  for  lapping  and  two  inches  for 
the  turnings,  one  at  each  end  of  band.  Cut 
band  lengthwise  of  the  muslin,  with  the 
warp  threads,  and  twice  the  desired  width 
finished  plus  ^  inch  for  turnings. 

B.  Gather  petticoat  J  inch  from  edge,  with  two 

gathering  threads  one  below  the  other. 
Divide  skirt  in  half;  gather  from  center 
front  to  back  at  right  side,  and  from  center 
front  to  back  at  left  side. 

C.  Turn  in  ends  of  band  one  inch.     Pin  center  of 

band  to  center  front  of  petticoat,  right 
side  of  band  to  right  side  of  petticoat.  Pin 
so  that  the  edge  of  band  is  even  with  the 
gathered  edge  of  skirt.  Pin  ends  of  band 
to  the  gathered  back  portions  of  skirt,  with 
ends  of  bands  to  ends  of  gathers.  Turn 
gathers  towards  worker,  and  distribute  in 
same  manner  as  when  attaching  yoke  of 
apron  to  the  apron  skirt.  Baste  J  inch 
from  edge  of  band,  and  between  the  two 
rows  of  gathering  stitches.  Sew  with  stitch- 
ing stitch.  Turn  band  over  to  wrong  side. 
Turn  in  \  inch.  Baste  and  hem  flat.  Over- 


LEARNING  TO  SEW  55 

hand    the    turned-in    ends    of    the    band 
neatly. 

D.  Finish  with  buttonhole  and  button  at  back, 
or  with  two  buttonholes,  to  button  to 
waist.  If  the  skirt  is  to  be  attached 
in  this  way,  a  buttonhole  should  be  made 
in  the  center  front  of  the  band  also. 
This  should  be  up  and  down  in  the  band. 

The  girls  of  Pleasant  Valley  had  a  surprise  party, 
when  the  aprons  were  finished,  and  went  to  the  Fresh 
Air  Home.  This  was  in  June  before  school  closed. 
Some  of  the  summer  children  had  arrived.  The  girls 
made  cookies  at  home  and  had  a  real  party  with  the 
children. 

EXERCISES   AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Tell  how  the  putting  on  of  the  skirt  band  differs  from  putting 
on  the  apron  yoke. 

2.  Do  you  know  of  any  other  kind  of  placket  finish  besides  the 
one  which  you  have  made  in  the  skirt  ?     Tell  where  you  have 
seen  it. 

REVIEW    PROBLEMS 

I.  Can  you  make  a  useful  bag  on  which  the  following  stitches 
might  be  used :  basting,  running,  hemming,  stitching  stitch,  over- 
handing,  buttonhole  ? 

II.  Plan  another  article,  using  as  many  of  these  stitches  as 
possible,  and  cutting  the  article  from  a  pattern.  Try  to  make 
this  at  home  for  school  credit.  Miss  James  of  Pleasant 
Valley  has  a  kind  of  score  card  which  she  uses  in  marking 
the  girls.  Perhaps  your  teacher  will  give  you  credit  for  your 
home  work. 


56  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


SCORE    CARD 


Girl's  nt 
I.  Ar 
A. 

B. 

IWl-f 

10% 

.        1C   % 

ticl^ 

General  appearance 
i.  General  neatness  of  sewing  . 
2    Cleanliness 

3.  Appropriateness  of  material 
Hand  work 
i.  Regularity  of  stitches  .     .     . 
2    Suitability  of  stitches 

.../.     2S% 

i  c  O7 

Too% 

CHAPTER   II 

THE   GIRLS  OF   PLEASANT  VALLEY  SCHOOL    LEARN 
TO  MAKE   SIMPLE   GARMENTS 

This  year  the  girls  of  the  Sewing  League  of  Pleasant 
Valley  will  receive  credit  for  the  garments  they  make. 
Miss  James  will  help  the  girls  to  start  the  garments  at 
school  and  will  give  full  credit  if  the  work  is  completed 
neatly.  A  nightdress,  a  petticoat,  corset  cover,  or 
under  slip,  and  perhaps  a  white  summer  dress  skirt  will 
be  made.  The  school  board  has  just  furnished  a 
machine,  so  Miss  James  is  planning  to  teach  the  girls 
to  use  it.  Many  of  them  can  practice  at  home  too. 
Mrs.  Stark,  who  has  two  machines,  told  Mollie  she  might 
bring  the  girls  at  any  time  for  practice.  Can  you  plan 
to  learn  to  stitch  at  your  school  ?  There  are  many 
things  one  does  not  wish  to  sew  by  hand,  and  does  not 
have  time  to  make  in  that  way.  Not  long  ago  Miss 
Travers,  who  came  from  the  State  Agricultural  College 
to  speak  to  the  Mothers'  Club  at  Pleasant  Valley,  told 
them  that  often  people  do  not  use  good  common  sense 
about  this  question.  She  said  there  are  times  when 

57 


58  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

one  wishes  to  make  garments  and  articles  by  hand,  but 
it  is  foolish  to  do  so  when  one  has  other  duties  in  life 
to  perform  which  are  more  important.  Handmade 
garments  are  very  beautiful  to  look  at,  but  when  they 
mean  the  sacrifice  of  health,  because  one  has  remained 
indoors  to  make  them,  they  appear  less  beautiful. 
Miss  Travers  and  the  mothers  had  a  long  discussion 
about  the  wages  paid  in  large  cities  to  women  who  do 
this  fine  work.  Miss  Travers  said  the  wage  paid  is 
usually  very  low. 

LESSON  i 

SOME    COTTON    MATERIALS    SUITABLE    FOR   UNDERWEAR 

Suppose  you  order  the  muslin  for  your  nightdress  and,  while 
waiting  for  it  to  arrive,  learn  about  the  cotton  materials  which  can 
be  used  for  underwear.  Can  you  add  a  whole  page  of  white 
materials  to  your  textile  books  ? 

Suppose  you  open  the  surprise  box  on  your  teacher's 
desk.  It  is  quite  full.  Let  us  sort  the  samples  and 
examine  the  white  ones,  especially,  to-day ;  for  your 
underwear  is  to  be  made  of  white  cotton  material. 
Let  us  look  also  at  the  ones  which  are  almost  white. 
They  are  unbleached  white ;  the  others  have  been 
bleached  with  a  chemical  to  make  them  look  so  snowy 
white.  They  have  been  dipped  in  a  bath  of  chloride 
of  lime,  and  then  in  another  bath  of  water  and  sulphuric 
acid,  until  the  material  has  become  white. 

Do  you  know  how  our  grandmothers  used  to  bleach 
sheets  and  other  unbleached  articles  which  they  wished 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  59 

to  have  white  ?  Grandmother  Allen  used  to  bleach 
those  she  made  on  her  hand  loom.  Why  did  they  place 
them  on  the  grass  in  the  sun  ?  What  bleached  them  ? 
This  unbleached  sample  is  muslin;  it  is  for  sheets. 
Here  is  some  white  which  is  of  the  same  plain  weave. 
The  unbleached  is  cheaper.  It  comes  one  yard  wide 
and  can  be  bought  for  5  cents  and,  in  better  qualities, 
up  to  15  cents  per  yard.  It  wears  very  well  —  better 
than  bleached  muslin.  Can  you  tell  why  ?  It  is  used 
for  sheets  and  pillowcases.  We  may  later  make  a  pair 
of  pillowcases  from  this  unbleached  muslin.  The  white 
muslin  can  be  bought  in  a  cheap  quality  for  7  cents  a 
yard  ;  and  it  may  also  be  bought  in  finer  qualities. 
Here  is  a  piece  of  Alpine  rose  muslin  from  our  sample 
box.  Isn't  that  a  pretty  name  for  it  ?  It  is  soft  and 
much  finer,  and  costs  30  cents  a  yard.  Bleached 
muslins  come  in  width  from  36  to  72  inches.  The  wide 
width  is  used  for  sheetings  and  is  woven  that  width  that 
no  seam  may  be  necessary  through  the  center  of  the 
sheet. 

This  soft,  light  cotton  material  is  called  nainsook. 
Isn't  that  a  queer  name  ?  It  is  from  an  old  Hindoo 
word  for  a  material  made  and  used  in  India.  Nainsook 
is  used  for  underwear  and  clothing  for  baby.  It  comes 
in  several  grades.  Miss  James  has  some  coarser 
samples,  too.  It  is  soft  and  is  nearly  always  finished, 
when  woven,  with  very  little  dressing  or  starch  to 
stiffen  it.  It  comes  27  inches  in  width  and  varies  in 
price  from  15  to  50  cents  a  yard. 


60  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

This  soft  crinkly  looking  material  is  called  cotton 
crepe.  It  is  used  a  great  deal  for  underwear  and  for 
shirt  waists  or  dresses.  It  is  considered  very  economi- 
cal. Does  any  one  know  why  ?  Yes,  because  it  is 
easily  washed  and,  when  hung  out  in  the  fresh  air  and 
sunshine,  does  not  need  to  be  ironed.  Think  of  all  the 
time  saved.  The  little  crinkles  dry  in  place  and  look 
Well.  It  costs  from  12  to  15  cents  per  yard,  and  comes 
about  30  inches  wide. 

This  piece  is  a  cambric.  It  is  a  firm  plain  weave  and 
is  good  for  underwear.  This  quality  is  fine,  and  its 
name  is  Berkeley  cambric.  Some  grades  of  cambric 
are  coarser  and  are  called  cambric  muslin.  They  are 
glazed  and  smooth  in  finish,  and  are  used  for  linings  and 
for  other  purposes.  That  name  is  also  foreign,  from 
Cambrai,  France.  Cambric  is  woven  a  yard  wide  and 
costs  from  10  to  25  cents  per  yard.  It  is  very  durable 
material  for  underwear,  not  quite  so  heavy  as  muslin, 
and  strong. 

Dimity  is  thin.  Look  at  this  piece.  Mollie  had  a 
dress  made  of  it  last  summer.  It  is  sheer  and  light, 
and  has  little  cords  or  ribs.  It  is  always  easy  to  recog- 
nize on  that  account.  It  is  used  for  summer  dresses, 
sometimes  for  dainty  underwear ;  but  it  is  not  suitable 
for  underwear  which  must  have  hard  usage  every  day. 
It  costs  from  15  to  50  cents  per  yard  and  is  woven  about 
a  yard  wide.  Sometimes  it  comes  in  colors  and  also 
with  pretty  printed  figures  on  it.  See,  here  are  some 
printed  ones.  What  dainty  patterns  and  colors ! 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  61 

Would  you  like  a  dress  of  one  of  these  ?  Miss  James 
has  found  two  other  thin,  sheer,  white  ones.  There  are 
so  many  I  wonder  if  we  can  remember  all.  This  thin 
one  is  lawn  and  is  a  plain  weave.  It  comes  in  inexpen- 
sive qualities  at  5  cents  and  in  better  qualities  for  25 
cents.  The  width  varies  from  36  to  40  inches.  Do 
you  know  of  anything  at  home  or  in  school,  made  of 
lawn  ?  Yes,  dresses,  aprons,  curtains.  It  comes  in 
colors  too ;  here  is  a  pretty  blue.  It  is  smooth  and 
starched  and  pressed  when  one  buys  it. 

This  other  is  soft  but  not  so  starched.  It  is  called 
mull.  That  is  a  Hindoo  word,  too.  Do  you  remember 
that  cotton  was  grown  in  India  many  years  before  we 
had  it  in  America ;  that  is  why  the  cotton  materials  so 
often  have  Indian  names.  Mull  is  too  fine  for  under- 
wear, but  it  is  used  for  pretty  white  dresses. 

Here  are  two  heavy  white  samples ;  one  is  called 
Indian  head,  and  the  other  duck.  Such  strange 
names  !  Do  you  know  their  uses  ?  Perhaps  your 
mother  had  a  skirt  last  summer  of  duck  or  Indian  Head. 
Mrs.  Alden  of  Pleasant  Valley  had  one.  Both  these 
cotton  materials  wear  well.  The  duck  is  used  for 
men's  trousers,  also ;  and  in  very  heavy  qualities,  it 
is  used  for  sails  or  tents  and  awnings.  John  Alden's 
first  long  trousers  were  made  of  duck.  How  important 
he  felt !  Duck  is  sometimes  colored  blue  or  other 
colors.  It  varies  in  width  from  27  to  36  inches  and  costs 
from  12  cents  up.  The  Indian  head  is  used  for  the 
same  purposes  as  duck  and  comes  in  the  same  width  for 


62 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


about  the  same  price, —  15  cents  a  yard  up,  according 
to  quality. 

We  shall  have  time  to  study  about  only  two  more  to- 
day. They  are  both  heavy.  This  is  galatea,  and  comes 
in  white,  like  this  sample,  or  in  colors.  It  is  firm  like 
duck  and  Indian  head.  Can  you  tell  for  what  it  is 

used  ?  Have  you  ever 
seen  any  before  ?  It  is 
used  for  dress  skirts,  and 
very  often  for  girls'  middy 
blouses  or  children's 
clothes.  It  washes  very 
well.  It  is  27  inches  wide 
and  costs  from  14  to  25 
cents  a  yard. 

The  last  sample  is  cot- 
ton birds  eye  or  huckaback. 
It  is  sold  by  the  yard  or 
by  the  piece.  It  costs 
less  per  yard  to  buy  it  by 
the  piece  of  10  yards. 

It  varies  in  cost,  according  to  quality,  and  is  woven  from 
1 8  to  27  inches  wide.  We  also  have  huckaback  towels 
made  of  cotton  or  linen  or  a  mixture  of  cotton  and  linen. 
Here  is  one  which  Miss  James  uses  at  school  (Fig.  36). 
I  wonder  who  can  go  to  the  board  and  make  a  list  of 
all  the  new  white  material  we  have  found  in  the  surprise 
box.  Shall  we  put  them  in  our  sample  book  ?  Who 
will  write  the  use  of  each,  opposite  the  name  ?  If  you 


FIG.  36.  —  A  towel  which  Miss  James  uses 
at  school. 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  63 

cannot  remember  the  prices  and  widths,  look  on  the 
samples ;  many  are  marked,  especially  those  which 
have  come  from  the  town  store.  Which  do  you  think 
will  be  best  for  your  nightgowns  ?  Yes,  cambric, 
nainsook,  or  muslin.  Which  will  be  softest  and  light- 
est ?  Which  is  the  heaviest  of  these  three?  Shall 
we  use  the  muslin  ?  It  is  strong  and  will  wear  well. 
Shall  we  choose  this  piece  ?  It  is  10  cents  a  yard. 
How  much  shall  we  need  ?  We  shall  talk  about  it  next 
lesson.  Any  one  who  wishes  to  use  the  unbleached 
muslin  which  costs  7  cents,  may  do  so ;  or  the  finer 
nainsook  which  is  15  cents  a  yard.  How  can  the 
unbleached  be  made  white  as  it  is  used  ? 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Look  up  the  story  of  how  cloth  is  bleached  in  any  of  the 
library  books  on  textiles,  or  in  the  encyclopedia. 

2.  Add  six  cotton  materials  you  have  just  studied  about,  to  your 
textile  sample  books. 

3.  Decide  what  kind  of  white  material  you  wish  to  use  for  your 
nightdress. 

LESSON  2 
SELECTING  PATTERN  AND  CLOTH  FOR  NIGHTDRESS 

Suppose  you  decide  about  the  pattern  for  your  nightdresses, 
and  send  for  the  cloth  and  pattern. 

A  kimono  nightdress.  Miss  James  has  a  book  of 
patterns ;  perhaps  your  teacher  has.  Let  us  look 
at  them.  Here  are  the  nightdresses.  This  picture 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


(Fig.  37)  is  a  kimono  nightdress  ;  that  means  the  sleeves 
are  cut  with  the  gown  all  in  one,  not  made  separately 
and  sewed  in.  This  name  kimono  is  Japanese  and  means 
a  loose  garment.  The  picture  shows  a  Pleasant  Valley 
girl  in  a  kimono  nightdress.  Miss  James  says  there  is 

only  one  piece  to  this  pat- 
tern and  the  nightdress  is 
easy  to  make.  The  way 
to  measure  for  the  amount 
of  material  for  such  a 
gown  is  to  take  the  length 
from  the  shoulder  at  the 
side  of  the  neck  to  the 
floor  and  add  three  inches 
for  a  hem.  This  gown 
can  be  cut  without  any 
shoulder  seams,  all  in  one 
piece.  So  you  will  need 
twice  the  length  from 
shoulder  to  floor  and  hem. 

FIG.  37.—  A  Pleasant  Valley  girl  in  a       Why?       If  the  cloth  is  One 
kimono  nightdress.  i  'j       •          Ml 

yard  or  more  wide,  it  will 

not  be  necessary  to  piece  the  gown  ;  so  be  sure  to  choose 
material  which  is  a  yard  wide.  Is  there  any  one  now 
who  does  not  know  how  to  measure  for  the  material  for 
the  kimono  nightdress  ?  Let  all  write  an  order  for  a 
kimono  nightdress  pattern  and  for  the  muslin.  Take 
each  other's  measures  first  and  add  together  the  amount 
of  cloth  needed.  It  will  be  easier  to  send  one  order  for 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  65 

all.  The  best  letter  will  be  chosen  to  send  to  the  store. 
As  some  girls  are  large  and  some  small  for  their  ages, 
it  will  be  wise  to  order  one  pattern  1 2-year  size,  and 
another  14-year  size. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

I.  How  much  cloth  will  be  needed  for  a  kimono  nightdress  if 
the  measure  of  the  girl  from  shoulder  to  floor  is  55  inches  ?  How 
much  do  you  suppose  the  Pleasant  Valley  girl  in  the  picture  needed  ? 


LESSON  3 

HOW    COTTON    CLOTH    IS    WOVEN 

Not  long  ago  we  learned  how  the  cotton  plant  furnishes  us  with 
cotton  for  clothing.  There  are  many  people  who  help  in  changing 
the  cotton  from  fiber  to  cloth.  While  you  are  waiting  for  the  cotton 
material  and  the  pattern,  shall  we  study  how  cotton  cloth  is  made  ? 

Cotton  is  used  for  many  things.  We  learned  that 
cotton  is  shipped  in  bales  of  500  pounds  each  from  the 
United  States  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  manu- 
facturer receives  it  at  the  factory  and  changes  it  by 
many  processes  into  what  he  wishes  to  sell.  Some 
manufacturers  make  only  cotton  threads  of  various 
kinds,  for  sewing,  knitting,  and  crocheting.  Others 
make  cotton  cloth  of  one  variety  or  of  several  varieties. 
We  know  there  are  many  kinds  manufactured.  Others 
make  absorbent  cotton,  gauze,  and  such  things  for 
surgical  use  for  the  sick.  Some  make  hosiery,  gloves, 
towels ;  and  others  make  knitted  underwear,  or  laces 


66 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


and  embroideries.  Others  use  cotton  for  war  purposes, 
for  guncotton.  John  Alden  said  he  did  not  know 
that  cotton  is  used  for  so  many  things. 

The  loom  for  weaving  cotton.  We  have  learned 
that  cloth  is  made  of  threads  which  run  lengthwise, 
i^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^i  called  the  warp  threads, 

and  of  crosswise  threads, 
called  the  filling  or  woof. 
The  machine  for  holding 
the  threads  and  doing  the 
work  is  called  a  loom. 
What  is  the  firm  edge 
which  is  woven  called  ? 
Look  at  Miss  James'  little 
loom  (Fig.  38).  It  shows 
the  warp,  and  the  filling 
yarn  as  it  passes  over  and 
under  and  makes  the  firm 
edge  as  it  turns  each  trip 
back  and  forth  around  the 
edge  threads.  If  you  have 
never  woven  a  piece  of 
material,  suppose  you  take 
a  box  cover  and  make  a 


FIG.  38.  —  Miss  James'  little  loom. 


small  loom.  The  picture  (Fig.  39)  shows  one  made  at 
Pleasant  Valley  School.  Did  you  ever  see  your 
grandmother  weave  on  a  loom  ?  Look  at  the  picture 
(Fig.  40)  of  a  grandmother  weaving  on  a  cloth  loom. 
It  is  not  Grandmother  Allen,  although  she  knows  how 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS 


to  weave.     The  warp  threads  are  rolled  up  on  a  big 

roller  at  the  back  of  the  loom  and  are  extended  to  the 

cloth  roller  at  the  front  near  where  she  sits.     She  holds 

the  filling  thread  in  her  hand.     It  is  wound  on  a  bobbin 

which  fits  in  the  shuttle.     She  throws  the  shuttle  from 

side  to  side  and  works  her 

feet  to  alternate  the  warp 

threads,  in  order  that  the 

filling  thread  may  go  over 

and  under,  and  make  the 

cloth.    Look  at  the  shuttle 

in  the  picture  (Fig.  41)  ;  it 

holds  the  bobbin  of  thread. 

There  are  many  kinds  of 

looms.     To-day    cloth    is 

woven  on  looms  run   by 

machinery.      It    is    much 

easier   and    quicker   than 

working  by  hand,  and  so 

cotton  cloth  can  be  made 

more    cheaply.      Frank 


FIG.  39.  —  A  small  loom  made  from  a 
box  cover. 


Allen  says  he  saw  a  loom 
at  the  silk  factory  he 
visited.  If  it  were  not  for  machines,  our  clothes  would 
cost  much  more  than  they  do.  Think  of  all  the  people 
who  help  to  give  us  our  cotton  clothes,  from  the  planter 
who  sows  the  seed  to  the  manufacturer  whose  men  pre- 
pare and  weave  it.  Have  you  ever  visited  a  cloth  fac- 
tory and  seen  the  many  machines  and  heard  the  great 


68 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


buzzing  noise  which  they  make  ?     It  is  a  busy  place. 
Some  factories  make  only  warp,  or  filling,  yarns.    They 


of  Draper  Co.,  Hopedale,  Mass. 


FIG.  40.  —  "In  days  gone  by." 

are  called  spinning  factories  or  mills  (Fig.  46).  They 
send  their  product  to  the  other  manufacturers  who 
have  only  weaving  machines  for  making  the  yarns  into 
cloth.  It  is  about  130  years  (1789)  since  the  first  cotton 

mill  was  started  in  the  United 
States,  and  only  a  few  years 
longer  since  the  first  mill  was 

FIG.  41.  — The  shuttle  holding  the    started  in  England.     Before 

that  time,  people  of  different 

countries  made  their  own  looms  according  to  the  ways 
they  thought  out.  As  men  felt  the  need  of  clothing  to 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS 


69 


wear,  they  tried  to  make  cloth ;  and  we  find  all  kinds 
of  primitive  looms  as  their  invention.  Can  you  look 
up  the  meaning  of  primitive  ?  Notice  the  two  pictures 
(Figs.  43  and  44)  of  primitive  people  weaving.  The 
Indian  girl  is  holding  the  shuttle  in  her  right  hand  ; 


Courtesy  of  Draper  Co.,  Hopedale,  Mass. 

FIG.  42.  —  A  weaving  room  in  a  modern  factory. 

the  loom  is  fastened  to  something  and  is  also  attached 
at  her  belt.  In  that  way  the  warp  threads  are  held 
securely  while  she  passes  the  filling  back  and  forth.  On 
page  136  you  will  find  a  picture  (Fig.  8i)of  a  Japanese  girl 
weaving  silk.  Notice  the  loom  ;  find  the  roller  holding 
the  warp  yarn.  Find  the  shuttle  which  she  uses  to  throw 
the  filling  yarn.  Can  you  tell  where  she  rolls  the  cloth 


70  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

as  it  is  woven  ?  Under  her  elbows  in  the  picture  is  a 
cloth  roller  on  which  she  rolls  up  the  woven  cloth  as  she 
weaves  and  unrolls  the  warp  from  the  warp  roller. 
Isn't  this  a  wonderful  story  ?  We  have  not  yet  learned 


Courtesy  of  Smithsonian  Institute,  Bureau  of  American  Ethnology. 
FIG.  43.  —  Indian  girl  weaving  a  belt  by  hand. 

how  the  cotton  is  made  into  the  warp  and  filling  ready 
to  be  woven.  We  shall  save  that  part  of  the  story  for 
to-morrow.  The  Pleasant  Valley  girls  and  boys  en- 
joyed this  part  of  the  story  about  cotton  and  are 
anxious  for  Miss  James  to  tell  some  more. 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS 


FIG.  44.  —  Another  primitive  loom  and  a  girl  spinning.     The  distaff  with  the  wool 
for  spinning  is  held  under  the  girl's  arm. 


EXERCISES   AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Try  to  make  a  simple  loom.     Take  a  piece  of  cardboard 
10  X  12  inches.     Make  a  row  of  holes  about  J  inch  apart  one 
inch  from  the  top ;  another  row  j  inch  apart  one  inch  from  bottom. 
String  the  warp  back  and  forth  from  hole  to  hole  so  it  looks  like 
the  picture  (Fig.  39).     Weave  a  piece  of  cloth   with   the  filling 
thread  which  goes  over  and  under. 

2.  Visit  a  weaving  factory  if  you  can. 

3.  See  if  you  can  spin  a  piece  of  carded  wool.     Perhaps  you  can 
card  some  wool  with  the  hand  cards  which  your  great  grandmother 
used,  as  the  Pleasant  Valley  girls  did. 

4.  Try  to  collect  pictures  of  spinning.     The  primitive  peoples 
did  this  in  different  wavs. 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


LESSON  4 

THE  SPINNING  OF  COTTON  INTO  YARN 

How  the  manufacturer  turns  the  cotton  into  yarn  ready  for 
the  weaver.  This  is  called  spinning.  Shall  we  study  how  it  is 
done  ? 

Perhaps  there  is  some  one  in  your  class  who  has 
visited  a  spinning  mill  and  can  tell  how  cotton  is  cleaned 
and  made  ready  for  weaving.  This  is  what  the  girls 
of  the  Sewing  League  of  Pleasant  Valley  saw  the  day 
they  went  to  visit  the  mill.  The  Camp  Fire  girls  went 
the  same  day,  and  Miss  Ashly,  their  guardian,  said 
that  what  they  learned  would  count  as  an  honor. 

How  cotton  is  prepared  for  spinning.  The  girls 
went  to  the  lower  floor  where  the  cotton  is  received. 

, ,    They     saw      the 

bags  and  iron 
bands  removed 
and  the  cotton 
pulled  apart  by 
a  queer  machine 
called  a  cotton 
opener,  or  bale 
breaker,  for  you 
remember  the  cot- 
ton was  pressed 
very  hard  before 
being  shipped.  The  cotton  is  then  placed  in  pickers, 
or  machines  which  blow  it  apart  and  blow  out  the 


FIG.  45.  —  The  cotton  carding  machine,  which  cleans 
the  cotton. 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  73 

leaves  and  dust  and  dirt.  As  the  cotton  leaves  this 
machine,  it  looks  like  a  big  piece  (6  ft.  wide)  of  cotton 
batting  rolled  in  a  large  roll.  It  looks  soft  and  clean. 
Then  the  girls  watched  the  men  place  this  roll  at  the 
back  of  the  next  machine,  called  a  carding  machine 


Courtesy  of  Leonard  &  Green,  Boston. 
FIG.  46.  —  A  cotton  spinning  room. 

(Fig.  45).  Here  it  was  cleaned  some  more;  and  such 
a  wonderful  thing  happened.  As  it  left  the  machine 
instead  of  coming  out  as  a  lap  of  the  roll  of  cotton 
like  it  went  in,  it  came  out  in  a  long  thick  coil  which 
looked  like  a  rope,  and  there  were  tall  round  cans 
ready  to  receive  this  continuous  line  of  cotton  rope. 
How  soft  and  beautiful  it  looked  !  What  wonderful 


74 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


machines  the  manufacturer  had.  Some  one  must 
have  made  them.  Can  you  find  out  who  made 
the  first  loom  run  by  machinery  ?  John  Alden 
looked  it  up  in  the  encyclopedia.  Do  you  know 
who  invented  the  first  spinning 
machine  ? 

Then  the  girls  visited  ever 
so  many  machines  which  wound 
this  cotton  rope  on  spools. 
Each  machine  made  the  rope 
thinner  and  finer  until  it  was 
drawn  out  as  thin  and  round 
as  the  manufacturer  wished 
(Fig.  46).  Barbara  Oakes 
noticed  this :  that  these  spin- 
ning machines  not  only  drew 
out  the  cotton  rope  and  made 
it  thinner,  but  put  in  a  twist 
which  prevented  it  from  break- 
ing so  easily.  Do  you  re- 
member how  the  cotton  fiber 
looked  under  the  microscope  ? 
The  twist  in  the  fiber  helps 
in  the  spinning.  Isn't  it  won- 
derful to  think  that  such  tiny 
fibers  can  be  made  into  spinning  yarns,  and  yarns 
woven  into  cloth  ? 

How  cotton  is  spun.     Did  you  ever  see  any  one  spin 
by  hand  ?     One  day  the  Girls'  League  went  to  Marjorie 


FIG.    47.  —  Grandmother  Allen's 
wheel  used  for  spinning  wool. 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS 


75 


Allen's  grandmother's  house.  She  took  the  girls  to  the 
attic  and  showed  them  her  grandmother's  spinning 
wheels  (Fig.  47).  There  was  a  large  one  for  spinning 
woolen  yarn.  This  she  called  the  great  wheel.  Then 
there  was  a  small  one  called  the  flax  wheel  (Fig.  48)  for 
spinning  flax,  or  linen, 
into  yarn  for  weaving. 
Grandmother  sat  down 
and  showed  them  how 
to  spin  (Fig.  49).  She 
pressed  her  foot  on  the 
treadle  just  like  a  sew- 
ing machine ;  and  the 
wheels  went  round.  The 
flax  was  on  a  little  holder 
called  a  distaff.  See  the 
pictures  (Figs.  48  and  49) 
of  the  wheels.  She  held 
and  drew  the  flax  while 
the  wheels  of  the  machine 
put  in  the  twist.  That 
is  just  what  the  modern 
spinning  machine  does,  but  it  can  accomplish  much 
more  in  an  hour  than  grandmother  did  in  a  day.  Still 
it  is  a  great  satisfaction  to  possess  some  of  the  beauti- 
ful old  textiles  spun  and  woven  by  grandmother's 
hands.  The  girls  had  the  pleasure  of  opening  a  great 
chest  in  the  attic  and  looking  at  the  hand-woven  sheets 
and  coverlets  which  Grandmother  Allen  prizes  so  highly. 


Courtesy  of  the  Metropolitan  Museun  of  Art. 
FIG.  48.  —  The  flax  wheel. 


76 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


Barbara  Oakes  and  Mollie  Stark  fairly  clapped  their 
hands  and  said,  "  How  beautiful  the  colors  are."  The 
coverlets  were  made  of  wool  and  cotton  yarns.  Grand- 
mother showed  the  girls  the  hand  cards  which  she  used 
when  a  girl  in  helping  her  mother  prepare  wool  into 
carded  rolls  for  spinning.  Do  you  remember  that 


Courtesy  of  Miss  Mary  E.  Hoag. 

FIG.  49.  —  Grandmother  Allen  sat  at  her  flax  wheel  and  showed  the  girls  how  to 

spin. 

the  cotton  at  the  factory  passed  through  a  carding 
machine  to  be  cleaned  and  made  into  a  cotton  rope  ? 
Grandmother  told  the  girls  she  used  to  do  the  same 
for  wool.  She  used  the  little  hand  cards  and  drew 
the  boards  with  the  fine  teeth  back  and  forth  to 
clean  the  fibers,  and  then  made  little  rolls  for  the 
great  wheel  to  spin.  The  picture  (Fig.  50)  shows  how 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  77 

the  hand  cards  are  used.     Wasn't  that  a  long,  tedious 
process  ? 

Perhaps  at  your  school  you  can  have  an  exhibit  of 
old  industrial  things  once  used  in  the  home.  Maybe 
your  grandmother  has  something  in  the  attic  —  some 
cards,  or  wheels,  or  old  hand-woven  materials.  If  you 


Courtesy  of  Miss  Mary  E.  Hoag. 

FIG.  50.  —  Grandmother  Allen  carding  wool  by  hand. 

have  a  Girls'  Sewing  League,  the  girls  will,  perhaps, 
send  out  invitations  and  invite  the  mothers  and  grand- 
mothers. The  girls  can  prepare  some  coffee  and 
cookies  at  school  to  serve  the  afternoon  of  the  exhibit. 
The  Pleasant  Valley  girls  had  such  an  afternoon  en- 
tertainment and  earned  five  dollars  for  their  school 
fund.  They  will  probably  buy  some  dishes  for  the 
school  lunch. 


78  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Try  to  find  some  pictures  of  very  primitive  spinning.     Can 
you  make  a  spindle  ? 

2.  What  does  the  process  of  carding  do  to  the  cotton  or  wool  ? 

3.  Plan  an  exhibition  of  old  coverlets  and  other  old  hand-woven 
textiles.     Invite  your  parents  and  friends. 


LESSON  5 
CUTTING  OUT  A  NIGHTDRESS 

The  patterns  and  muslin  have  probably  arrived.  Suppose  you 
cut  out  your  nightdress. 

Miss  James  kept  a  memorandum  of  the  amounts 
of  material  needed  by  each  girl  for  her  gown,  and  she 
has  divided  the  cloth.  She  has,  also,  cut  with  Barbara's 
help  several  patterns  from  the  commercial  pattern, 
so  that  all  may  begin  to  work  at  once.  Miss  James 
has  had  such  nice  boards  arranged  and  fastened  with 
hinges  to  the  walls  under  the  blackboards.  They  are 
so  convenient  for  cutting  and  can  be  let  down  out  of 
the  way  when  not  needed. 

Placing  the  pattern  and  cutting  the  material.  Let  us 
look  at  our  patterns.  Some  girl  will,  perhaps,  read 
aloud  what  the  pattern  says  in  the  description  printed 
on  the  outside  or  on  the  envelope  of  this  commercial 
pattern.  Who  will  hold  up  the  nightdress  pattern, 
showing  how  it  is  related  to  the  figure  ?  Who  can  tell 
what  the  small  group  of  dots  on  the  edge  means  ?  Who 
remembers  how  we  can  tell  about  laying  the  pattern 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS 


79 


correctly  on  the  warp  of  the  material  ?  Those  two 
things  are  important.  It  is  also  necessary  to  plan  so 
as  to  waste  as  little  as  possible. 
Some  girls  will  find  that  their  pat- 
terns are  too  long.  Measure  from 
the  shoulder  at  the  neck  of  your 
nightdress  pattern,  and  see  if  it  is 
longer  or  shorter  than  your  measure. 
If  the  pattern  is  too  long,  fold  up  the 
necessary  portion.  If  too  short,  do 
not  forget  you  must  allow  extra  when 
pinning  the  pattern  on  the  cloth. 
How  much  of  the  whole  nightdress 
does  this  pattern  give  ?  If  only  one- 
half  is  given,  the  nightdress  must  be 
cut  on  a  fold  ;  back  and  front  in  one 
with  a  hole  for  the  neck,  as  it  slips 
over  the  head.  How  shall  we  fold 
the  cloth  so  as  to  cut  on  a  fold  ? 
Which  edge  of  the  pattern  shall  be 
placed  on  the  fold  ?  Have  you 
placed  it  most  economically  on  the 
cloth  ?  Not  an  inch  should  be 
wasted.  The  pattern  may  or  may 
not  allow  for  seams.  What  will 
you  do  if  it  does  not  ?  If  you  must 
add  for  your  hem  at  the  bottom, 
do  not  forget  to  mark,  with  a  fine  pencil  mark,  the 
allowance  for  hem  beyond  the  pattern.  So  you  see 


FIG.  51.  —  Laying  the 
nightdress  pattern  on 
the  cloth. 


8o  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

there  are  many  things  to  remember.  Can  you  all  cut 
out  your  nightdresses  to-day  and  baste  Hnch  seams 
under  the  arms  ?  Pin  your  seams  carefully  before 
basting.  Instead  of  the  sharp  angle  under  the  arm, 
which  the  kimono  nightdress  usually  gives,  cut  a  good 
curve.  Your  teacher  will  help  you.  The  curve  makes 
a  better  line  and  is  easier  to  finish.  The  pieces  left 
must  be  rolled  carefully,  and  your  name  must  be  written 
on  the  outside  of  the  roll.  We  may  need  the  pieces  later. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Cut  a  free-hand  pattern  of  a  kimono  nightdress  for  your  doll. 

2.  Show,  with  a  piece  of  newspaper  to  represent  the  cloth,  how 
the  pattern  can  be  placed  economically. 

LESSON  6 
THE  PARTS  OF  A  SEWING  MACHINE 

Shall  we  examine  the  new  machine  to-day  and  learn  to  run  it  ? 
You  must  practice  before  sewing  your  seams. 

Do  you  know  that  sewing  machines  were  invented 
less  than  one  hundred  years  ago  ?  Our  great-grand- 
mothers had  to  do  all  their  sewing  by  hand,  and  some 
of  our  grandmothers  too.  A  man  by  the  name  of  Elias 
Howe,  of  Cambridge,  Massachusetts,  first  thought  about 
the  sewing  machine  ;  and  since  then  many  different 
kinds  have  been  invented,  to  be  run  by  foot  and  also  by 
mechanical  power,  — electricity.  We  have  two  kinds  of 
foot-power  machines.  One  kind  (Fig.  52)  has  only  one 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS 


81 


thread,  which  is  placed  on  a  spool  on  top  ;  and  the  other 
(Fig.  53),  the  two-thread  or  double-thread,  is  like  the  one 
we  have  at  school.  The  double-thread  machine  is  called 
a  lock-stitch  machine,  because  one  thread  is  on  top  on  a 
spool  and  the  other  is  on  a  little  spool  called  a  bobbin 


Courtesy  of  Wilcox  and  Gibbs  Sewing  Machine  Co. 
FIG.  52.  —  Single  thread  machine. 

in  the  shuttle  under  the  plate.  The  two  threads  lock 
together  as  the  machine  works.  You  will  learn  how 
later.  The  machine  with  only  one  thread  on  top  is 
called  a  chain-stitch  machine.  The  stitching  made  by 
it  rips  very  easily ;  and  the  ends  must  be  fastened 
carefully  when  one  stops.  The  double-thread  machine 
does  not  rip  easily ;  and  one  can  stitch  on  either  the 


82 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


right  or  wrong  side  of  a  garment.  On  the  single- 
thread  machine,  one  must  stitch  on  the  right  side 
always.  Let  us  look  at  a  machine  before  learning  to 
operate  it. 

What  parts  do  you  find  below  the  table  ?  What  use 
is  the  connecting  rod  ?  What  does  it  connect  ?  Watch 
how  your  teacher  puts  her  feet  on  the  treadle.  What 
makes  the  wheel  above  the  table  turn  around  ? 

You     should     practice 

running  the  machine  first 
without  any  thread  so  as 
to  learn  to  use  the  treadle 
well,  and  then  with  paper 
to  see 'if  you  are  holding 
it  straight  and  making 
rows  of  pricks  which  are 
straight  and  even.  If  one 
cannot  make  rows  of  even 
pricks,  it  means  the  sew- 
ing will  be  crooked  and  must  be  ripped.  Some  of 
the  Pleasant  Valley  girls  practiced  in  this  way  at 
home. 

What  do  you  find  besides  the  wheel  above  the  table  ? 
The  shaft  has  many  parts.  Can  you  name  some  ? 
Yes,  the  spool  holder,  which  holds  the  spool ;  the  needle 
bar,  which  holds  the  needle  and  moves  up  and  down ; 
the  foot,  which  is  called  the  presser  foot  and  can  be 
raised  or  lowered  by  the  little  handle  ;  the  needle  plate, 
through  which  the  needle  works  ;  the  feed,  which  is  like 


Courtesy  of  New  Home  Sewinu  MaciMit  < 

FIG.  53.  —  Double-thread  machine. 


•  MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  83 

little  rough  teeth  of  a  comb  and  helps  to  push  the  cloth 
along  as  one  stitches.  The  little  attachment  near  the 
wheel  is  for  winding  bobbins  for  the  shuttle.  The 
shuttle  lies"  in  the  shuttle  race  under  the  plate.  Suppose 
we  move  the  plate  and  take  it  out.  See,  the  bobbin  is 
in  the  shuttle.  This  is  the  second  thread. 

How  do  you  regulate  the  machine  ?  Jane  asked  Miss 
James  about  the  screws.  There  are  usually  two  large 
ones  on  the  double-thread  machines  which  are  important. 
One  screw  is  to  make  the  stitch  larger  or  smaller ;  we 
say,  to  regulate  it.  Miss  James  showed  the  girls  how 
to  do  this.  The  second  screw  is  to  regulate  the  tight- 
ness of  the  thread.  It  is  called  a  tension.  Press  your 
thumb  and  first  finger  tightly  together  and  pass  a  thread 
between  them.  When  you  do  not  press  very  hard,  the 
thread  passes  easily.  When  you  press  hard,  it  is 
difficult  to  draw  the  thread  through,  and  the  thread 
may  break.  Have  you  tried  ?  The  tension  is  regulated 
by  a  screw  which  presses  two  little  plates  together.  The 
thread  passes  between  the  plates.  When  they  are  loose 
like  your  fingers,  the  thread  passes  easily ;  when  tight, 
it  breaks.  So,  in  threading  a  machine,  we  must  learn 
where  the  tension  plates  are,  in  order  to  pass  the  thread 
between  them,  and  how  the  screw  is"  turned  to  make  the 
plates  tight  or  loose.  Your  teacher  will  show  you  how 
to  turn  the  screws. 

To-day,  while  some  girls  are  finishing  the  basting, 
others  may  try  to  run  the  machine,  in  turn.  This 
is  what  you  are  to  do  : 


84  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

1.  Find  all  the  parts  whose  names  have  been  put 

on  the  blackboard,  above  table  and  below  table. 

2.  Learn  to  treadle  evenly. 

3.  Learn  to  raise  and  lower  the  presser  foot  on  a  piece 

of  brown  paper,  and  to  stitch  without  thread. 
Keep  the  rows  of  pricks  very  even. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Study  your  machine.     Find  all  the  parts  above  the  table; 
below  the  table. 

2.  What  is  the  purpose  of  a  tension  ?     Show  how  it  operates. 

3.  Learn  to  stitch,  without  a  thread,  even  rows  of  pricks  on 
brown  paper. 

4.  See  how  much  you  can  tell  mother  about  the  machine,  when 
you  go  home. 

LESSON  7 

PRACTICE    IN    THREADING   AND    RUNNING   THE    MACHINE 

Let  us.  learn  to  thread  the  double  thread  machine  and  practice 
stitching.  This  requires  much  care,  but  is  not  difficult.  The 
Pleasant  Valley  girls  enjoyed  this  lesson  very  much. 

As  we  learned,  there  are  many  different  makes  of 
sewing  machines.     All  are  based  on  the  principles  of  the 
one  invented  by  Mr.  Howe.     If  we  know  the  important 
points  to  remember  in  threading  a  machine,  it  will  be 
very  easy  to  follow  the  book  of  directions  which  comes 
with  the  machine.     The  names  of  some  machines  are 
the  New  Home,  Domestic,  Singer,  Wilcox  and  Gibbs. 
Here  are  the  things  to  think  about  in  threading  : 
i.    Find  the  spool  holder,  and  put  the  spool  on  it. 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  85 

2.  Find  all  the  little  eyes  and  holes  through  which 

the  thread  must  pass.     The  book  of  directions 
will  help. 

3.  Find    the   tension.     Be    sure   the   thread   passes 

between  the  tension  plates  and  pulls  evenly. 

4.  Find  the  needle,  and  thread  it  from  left  to  right, 

towards  the  wheel. 

5.  Find  the  shuttle.     Look  at  your  book  of  direc- 

tions. 

Miss  James  helped  Barbara  to  put  the  bobbin  in  its 
place,  and  to  thread  it  into  the  shuttle.  Ask  your 
teacher  to  help  you  if  you  do  not  know  how. 

6.  Put  the  shuttle  back  in  the  shuttle  holder. 

7.  Turn  the  wheel  and  hold  the  upper  thread.     This 

will   bring   the  under  thread  up  through  the 
little  hole  in  the  needle  plate. 

Both  threads  should  be  on  top  before  beginning  to 
stitch. 

Now  you  are  ready  to  begin  to  practice  stitching  with 
a  thread. 

Try  to  remember  these  things,  while  stitching  with 
a  thread : 

1.  To  treadle  evenly. 

2.  To  hold  the  material  on  the  table  at  the  left  hand 

and  to  pass  it  on  lightly.     Do  not  pull  it  or  push 
it  with  your  left  hand. 

3.  To  turn  corners  evenly.     Have  the  needle  down 

in  cloth.     Raise  the  presser  foot  and  turn  the 
work.     Put  the  foot  down  and  continue. 


86  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 

4.  Be  sure  to  turn  the  wheel  in  the  proper  direction, 

or  the  thread  will  break. 

5.  Practice    stitching    parallel    rows.     Make    good 

square  corners.     Use  some  scraps  of  cloth  for 
this  sewing,  and  practice  at  home. 

Those  who  have  not  practiced  on  the  machine  may 
do  so  during  study  periods,  if  there  is  time.  We  can 
move  the  machine  into  the  coat  room. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Barbara  Oakes  does  not  turn  good  square  corners  on  her 
practice  piece.     Why  ? 

2.  Marjorie  says  her  thread  breaks  every  time  she  starts.     Why  ? 

3.  Show  some  one  how  you  can  bring  the  under  thread   up 
through  the  needle  plate,  preparatory  to  stitching. 

4.  Practice  threading  the  machine,  following  book  directions 
if  you  do  not  know  how. 

5.  Practice  rows  of  good  straight  stitching. 

LESSON  8 

THE    FRENCH    SEAM    AND    ITS    USE 

What  kind  of  seams  shall  we  make  on  our  nightdresses  ?  How 
shall  we  finish  the  bottom  ?  The  Pleasant  Valley  girls  did  most 
of  this  at  school  in  one  lesson,  but  finished  at  home. 

Making  French  seams  on  the  nightdress.  We  have 
learned  that  our  dish  towels  had  to  be  hemmed  because 
of  the  raveling  of  material.  Anything  which  is  to  be 
washed  a  great  deal  must  have  its  raw  edges  finished 
in  such  a  way  that  they  will  not  ravel.  As  nightdresses 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  87 

are  washed  often,  we  must  make  our  seams  so  that  the 
edges  will  not  pull  out.  Who  can  name  other  garments 
which  are  washed  often  ?  Who  can  tell  what  we  can 
do  to  prevent  edges  from  fraying  ?  Yes,  we  might  make 
small  stitches,  called  overcasting,  on  the  edge  of  a  plain 
seam.  There  is  another  way,  which  we  shall  learn 
to-day.  It  is  called  a  French  seam.  The  French  seam 
is  sewed  twice.  The  seam  is  basted  as  you  have  done, 


FIG.  54.  —  The  French  seam.     First  sewing  near  raw  edges. 

on  the  right  side  of  the  garment ;  seams  are  usually 
basted  on  the  wrong  side.  Then,  the  seam  is  sewed 
close  to  the  basting  stitches.  We  shall  sew  ours  by 
machine.  The  French  seam  is  used  on  some  garments 
made  by  hand.  The  first  sewing  (Fig.  54),  then,  is  a  tiny 
row  of  running  stitches,  close  to  the  basting.  After 
the  first  sewing,  the  basting  should  be  removed  and  the 
edges  trimmed  to  a  £  inch  seam.  This  must  be  done 
carefully.  Then,  turn  the  garment  to  the  wrong  side. 
Press  and  pinch  the  seams  evenly  so  that  the  sewing  of 


88  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 

the  seam  is  exactly  on  top  of  the  fold  as  you  pinch  it. 
Next,  baste  again  J  inch  from  edge,  and  sew  the  second 
time,  by  machine.  This  seam  is  often  used  on  dainty 
handmade  underwear.  Then,  the  second  sewing  is 
two  runs  and  a  back  stitch,  like  that  you  used  on  your 
aprons,  and  is  made  by  hand.  What  must  we  be  careful 
about,  then,  in  making  the  French  seams  on  our  night- 
dresses ? 


FIG.  55.  —  The  French  seam.     Second  sewing. 

Making  the  hem  of  the  nightdress.  How  much  was 
allowed  for  the  hems  at  the  bottom  of  the  nightdresses  ? 
Everybody  knows  how  to  turn  a  hem.  The  first  turning 
is  |  inch  ;  and  the  wide  turning,  3  inches.  All  use  your 
gauges  or  tape  measures ;  and  turn  and  pin  and  baste 
carefully  before  stitching.  Who  can  tell  why  the  tiny 
plaits  are  necessary  at  the  hem  turning  ?  Where  shall 
we  lay  them  ?  Yes,  at  the  seams  and  between,  if 
necessary. 

Now  you  will  have  plenty  to  do  to  finish  seams  and 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  89 

hem.     The    Pleasant    Valley   girls,    after   this    lesson, 
finished  theirs  at  home. 


EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Show  on  a  practice  piece  how  a  French  seam  is  made : 

a.  By  hand. 

b.  By  machine. 

2.  Name  some  garments  or  articles  on  which  the  French  seam 
might  be  used.     Why  ? 

3.  What  are  the  important  things  to  remember  in  turning  the 
hems  at  the  bottom  of  the  nightdresses  ? 

LESSON  9 

PROTECTION  FOR  THE  BODY  AT  NIGHT 

Do  you  know  that  clothes  help  to  keep  us  well  ?  Mollie  Stark 
wishes  to  know  what  kind  of  clothing  should  be  worn  at  night. 

What  should  be  done  about  clothing  at  night  ?  We 
have  learned  that,  in  order  to  keep  well,  we  must  think 
about  the  right  kind  of  clothing  as  well  as  food.  Grown 
people  sometimes  forget  about  this ;  and  growing 
girls  and  boys,  too.  The  body  must  be  kept  clean  ;  and 
clothing  worn  next  to  it  should  also  be  kept  clean  at 
night  as  well  as  during  the  day.  Who  can  remember 
how  many  pints  of  water  the  normal  body  gives  off 
each  day  ?  It  loses  about  three  pints  in  24  hours. 
Can  you  recall  what  becomes  of  this  waste  ?  Yes, 
some  is  evaporated,  but  some  is  collected  by  our  clothes  ; 
that  is  why  they  are  soiled  as  they  collect  the  perspira- 
tion and  excretions,  although  often  they  do  not  look 


90  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

soiled.  The  day  garments  should  be  hung  up  at  night 
in  a  place  where  they  will  air  and  dry  out  by  morning. 
They  should  not  be  shut  up  in  a  closet.  Different 
clothing  should  be  worn  at  night.  A  muslin  night- 
dress, like  those  you  are  making,  is  usually  suitable  for 
six  or  seven  months  of  the  year  ;  but  some  of  us  who  live 
in  the  country  or  in  houses  not  well  heated  require 
warmer  clothing  at  night.  Old 
people  and  babies,  as  well  as  sick 
people,  require  more  clothing  be- 
cause they  are  not  able  to  resist  the 
cold  as  easily.  Do  you  recall  why  ? 
What  is  the  normal  human  body 
temperature  ?  Why  is  the  human 
body  called  a  machine  ? 

If  our  day  clothing  collects  waste 
and  should  be  aired  at  night,  what 
FIG.  S6. -The   clothing    should  be  done  with  the  night  cloth- 
wom  during  the  day   ing  during  the  day  ?     Yes,  it  should 

should     be     aired      at     i  11       •       J         TJ 

night  be  well  aired.     Have  you  ever  no- 

ticed how  the  air  of  a  room  is  spoiled 
by  the  odor  of  night  clothing  and  of  bed  coverings  which 
have  not  been  properly  aired  ?  Some  people  roll  up 
the  nightdress  and  put  it  under  the  pillow.  That  night- 
dress will  not  smell  sweet  and  clean  at  night.  Clean 
clothing  is  absolutely  necessary  in  order  to  keep  well. 
We  shall  some  day  learn  how  to  cleanse  clothing  prop- 
erly, by  washing.  Clothing  worn  next  to  the  body 
should  be  changed  once  a  week  at  least,  and  twice  or 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  91 

three  times  if  possible.  When  one  works  very  hard  and 
the  body  sends  off  more  waste,  clothing  should  be 
changed  more  often. 

The  body  which  is  to  wear  the  clean-  clothing  should 
be  washed  every  day.  It  may  not  be  possible  to  take 
a  tub  bath  or  a  swim  in  the  river  or  lake,  but  one  can 
bathe  all  over  with  a  bucket  of  water  and  a  cloth  and 
soap.  It  pays,  for  one  feels  so  fresh ;  and,  then,  the 
waste  of  the  body  is  removed  by  the  washing,  and  the 
pores  of  the  skin  are  kept  in  good  condition.  When  our 
skin  is  in  good  condition,  we  do  not  feel  the  cold  as  much 
as  do  those  who  do  not  bathe  frequently. 

Do  you  remember  that  we  said  our  clothing  must 
help  to  save  some  of  the  body  heat  ?  That  is  how 
clothing  protects.  Why  must  some  heat  be  saved  ? 
We  also  learned  that  when  our  body  works  very  hard 
much  heat  is  created.  Where  does  it  go  ?  It  is  not  all 
saved.  Why  ?  Our  clothing  helps  to  prevent  the  heat 
of  the  body  from  escaping  too  rapidly.  We  should  plan 
to  wear  light  clothing  in  summer  and  heavier  in  winter, 
or  to  adapt  our  clothing  to  the  weather.  This  is  only 
good  sense.  In  summer  we  have  cool  days,  and .  in 
winter  warm  ones.  People  whose  habits  of  living 
keep  them  indoors  a  great  deal  should  be  clothed 
lightly  for  a  warm  house  and,  when  going  out,  should 
protect  themselves  with  extra  clothing.  The  boy 
or  girl  who  walks  to  school  rapidly  does  not  re- 
quire as  much  clothing  as  one  who  rides.  Can  you 
tell  why? 


92  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

Have  you  heard  that  several  layers  of  thin  clothing 
are  warmer  than  one  thick  layer  ?  Frank  Allen  says 
he  knows  why.  Yes,  because  of  the  layers  of  air 
between  the  thicknesses  of  clothing.  Still  air  does 
not  carry  the  heat  away,  so  we  feel  warmer  with  several 
layers  of  still  air.  Clothing  helps  to  keep  the  layers  of 
air  from  conducting  the  heat  away  too  rapidly.  Porous 
clothing  is  always  better  because  air  can  pass  through 
and  can  be  collected  in  the  meshes.  Loose  wool 
material  is  warm  because  it  holds  the  air  between  the 
spaces  made  by  the  woolly  fibers.  Some  day  we  shall 
study  the  wool  fiber  as  we  have  the  cotton,  and  find  out 
why  it  collects  air  and  why  woolen  clothes  shrink. 
Do  you  think  you  understand  why  clothes  should  be 
changed  at  night  ?  Can  you  tell  your  big  brother  at 
home  why  ?  Mollie  Stark  and  Jane  Smith  told  about 
this  part  of  the  story  when  they  went  home  from  school. 
Mrs.  Stark  had  invited  some  friends  in  for  tea.  All 
enjoyed  hearing  Mollie's  story. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Why  is  it  important  to  change  one's  clothing  weekly  ? 

2.  What  care  should  be  taken  of  the  clothing  worn  at  night  ? 
Why? 

3.  How  do  clothes  help  to  keep  us  well  ?    Tell  mother  or  father 
how. 

4.  Look  in  your  teacher's  book  on  physiology.     What  does  it 
say  about  body  temperature ;    about  cleanliness  of  the  skin  ? 

5.  Write  the  story  of  what  you  think  Mollie  and  Jane  told  about 
this  subject  at  Mrs.  Stark's  tea  party. 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  93 

LESSON  10 

LACES  AND  THEIR  USE 

We  must  finish  the  sleeves  of  our  nightdresses,  and  also  the  neck. 
Shall  we  use  some  lace  ?  Do  you  know  that  there  are  many  kinds 
of  lace  ?  How  shall  we  sew  it  to  the  gown  ? 

Do  you  know  that  there  are  many  kinds  of  lace  ? 
The  day  Marjorie  Allen  took  the  girls  to  visit  her 
grandmother,  they  saw  many  things  in  the  attic. 
Grandmother  Allen  also  showed  them,  some  old  lace 
and  undergarments  which  were  decorated  with  lovely 
embroidery.  It  was  all  done  most  evenly  with  lovely 
flowers  and  scalloped  edges,  and  all  in  white  cotton 
embroidery  thread.  There  were  some  dainty  old  laces, 
too.  The  girls  learned  the  names  of  some  of  them. 
The  Sewing  League  sent  for  several  samples  of  modern 
laces  of  the  same  names.  There  were  cluny  laces  like 
these  in  the  sample  box.  Cluny  lace  is  often  quite  heavy 
and  is  used  on  heavy  materials.  The  lighter  cluny 
laces  are  more  suitable  for  underwear.  The  cluny  laces 
are  hand  or  machine  made.  Which  do  you  think  are 
more  expensive  ?  Have  you  ever  seen  any  one  make  lace 
by  hand  ?  It  is  sometimes  done  on  a  lace  pillow  with  pins 
to  outline  the  pattern.  The  little  bobbins  of  thread  are 
thrown  around  the  pins.  Can  you  get  from  the  picture 
(Fig.  59)  an  idea  of  how  it  is  done  ?  Torchon  lace  is  also 
used,  but  is  not  quite  so  heavy  as  cluny.  It  is  either 
hand  or  machine  made.  Both  of  these  are  linen  laces, 
but  sometimes  are  imitated  in  cotton.  They  are  not  so 


94 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


ifcfi 


Imitation    Cluny    inser- 
tion       $.12 


Imitation  Cluny  edging  .      .15 


Real  Cluny  insertion  .     .      .25 


Real  Cluny  edging     .     .      .18 


German  "  Val  "  insertion      .09 


German  "Val"  edging  .      .09 


'f     French  "Val"  insertion      .13 


French  "  Val "  edging    .      .13 


pIG    S7  _  The  names  and  retail  prices  of  a  few  good  laces  for  underwear. 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS 


95 


Cotton  beading     .     .     .  $  .03 

Linen     machine-made 
beading 04 

Linen  beading 06 


Real  torchon  insertion    .      .24 


Real  torchon  edging  .     .      .16 


Machine-made     torchon 
insertion 07 

Machine-made     torchon 
edge 10 


Irish  crochet  insertion    .      .85 


Irish  crochet  edging  .     .    i.io 


FIG.  58. 


96 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


pretty  when  made  of  cotton.  It  is  better  taste  to  buy 
of  good  lace  the  amount  one  can  afford  than  to  buy  a 
cheap  imitation.  If  one  can  only  pay  for  a  cotton  lace, 
then  choose  a  cotton  kind,  such  as  the  laces  called 
Valenciennes.  The  girls  sent  for  French  Valenciennes 
and  also  for  "German  Fal"  lace  edging  and  insertion. 
What  is  the  difference  between  an  edging  and  an  inser- 
tion ?  The  German  valenciennes  laces  are  somewhat 

coarser.  There  are  also 
some  samples  of  Irish 
crochet  lace.  The  real 
Irish  handmade  crochet 
is  done  with  a  crochet 
hook,  by  hand.  The 
imitations  are  made  by 
machinery.  Marjorie's 
grandmother  has  some 
real  Irish  crochet  and 
some  real  old  valen- 
ciennes lace.  It  is  hand- 
made and  must  have  cost  a  great  deal  of  money. 
In  grandmother's  day  machines  had  not  been  in- 
vented for  making  lace.  Let  us  look  at  the  samples 
which  Miss  James  has.  The  pictures  (Figs.  57  and  58) 
show  some  of  those  used  by  the  Pleasant  Valley  girls. 
Which  would  you  like  on  your  gown  ?  The  German 
valenciennes  wears  well  and  is  not  expensive.  The 
machine-made  linen  cluny  or  torchon  lace  is  attractive, 
suitable,  and  it  wears  well.  Why  do  you  think  a 


FIG.  59.  —  Lace  being  made  by  hand  on 
pillows  with  tiny  bobbins  of  thread. 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  97 

fine  French  Valenciennes  lace  does  not  look  well  on  thick 
muslin  underwear  ? 

Besides  using  lace,  what  are  some  other  ways  of 
finishing  a  garment  ?  We  shall  send  for  our  laces  and 
also  learn  another  way  to  finish  neck  and  sleeves,  which 
will  cost  less.  We  can  use  bias  bands  of  lawn  to  finish 
the  rough  edges.  Cut  them  2^  inches  wide  (see  page  25), 
and  they  will  be  about  one  inch  finished.  The  feather 
stitch  added  will  make  a  pretty  decoration.  Scallop- 
ing is  easy.  The  gowns  might  be  finished  with  the 
hand  scallop  around  neck  and  sleeves,  if  one  has  the 
time. 

We  shall  learn  how  to  sew  on  the  lace  insertion  or 
edging.  The  girls  who  use  lace  may  decide  to  have  only 
the  edging.  If  insertion  or  beading  is  used,  too,  it  is 
sewed  on  first. 

While  we  are  waiting  for  the  lace  to  come,  we  can 
prepare  the  edges  of  the  neck  and  sleeves.  If  we  use 
a  French  fell,  the  sewing  will  not  show  on  the  right  side 
at  all  when  the  lace  is  entirely  in  place ;  besides,  only 
one  sewing  is  necessary  for  the  hem  and  lace.  This 
is  how  it  is  done : 

1.  Turn  to  the  right  side  of  the  garment  at  both  neck  and  sleeve 
edges,  a  hem  of  |  inch.     The  first  turning  must,  also,  be  f  inch. 
Baste  very  carefully  with  small  stitches. 

2.  Turn  these  hems  backward  to  wrong  side  and  crease  so  that 
the  edge  of  the  turned  hem  is  exactly  at  the  finished  edge  of  the 
garment.     This  is  where  the  lace  is  to  be  sewed.     We  shall  learn 
how  to  sew  on  the  lace  next  lesson. 


98  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Bring  to  school  all  the  samples  of  lace  you  can  find  at  home. 
With  your  teacher's  help  compare  and  discuss  their  uses.     Mount 
the  best  samples  for  an  exhibit. 

2.  Ask  your  family  and  friends  to  show  you  any  old  pieces  of 
lace  they  may  have. 

3.  Consult  the  encyclopedia  or  other  books,  and  see  if  you  can 
learn  more  about  how  lace  is  made.     There  are  several  good  books 
all  about  lace. 

LESSON  ii 

TRIMMING   THE    NIGHTDRESS 

A  new  way  to  sew  on  lace  by  hand,  and  an  inexpensive  way  to 
trim  the  nightdress. 

Did  you  find  it  very  difficult  to  turn  the  narrow  hem 
around  the  neck  of  your  nightdress  ?  Jane  Smith 
almost  cried ;  but  Miss  James  helped  her  a  little. 
It  is  always  more  difficult  to  turn  a  hem  on  a  curved 
edge  than  on  a  straight  edge.  If  the  turns  have  both 
been  made  the  same  width  and  if  the  basting  stitches 
are  small,  there  will  be  no  difficulty.  After  the  hems 
have  been  turned  backwards  and  creased  to  the  wrong 
side,  we  are  ready  to  sew  on  the  insertion.  Hold  the 
insertion  straight  with  the  right  side  to  the  right  side 
of  the  gown,  and  with  the  edge  of  the  insertion  to  the 
edges  of  the  creased  hem.  Now  great  care  must  be 
taken.  The  overhanding  stitch  is  to  be  used.  You 
learned  this  stitch  on  the  bean  bags  (page  28).  In 
taking  the  stitch  be  very  careful  to  put  the  needle 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  99 

through  the  edge  of  the  hem,  the  creased  edge,  and  the 
lace.  The  sewing  will  not  be  neat  unless  all  these  edges 
are  caught  by  this  sewing.  This  is  important. 

If  one  wishes,  it  is  possible  to  use  only  the  lace  edging 
without  the  insertion.  Sew  it  to  the  gown  in  the  same 
way  one  would  sew  it  to  the  insertion.  Towards  the 
worker  hold  the  lace  just  a  little  full.  Sometimes  one 
can  pull  the  thread  at  the  edge  of  the  lace  and  use  it  as 
a  gathering  thread  ;  but,  as  not  much  fullness  is  required, 
it  is  very  satisfactory  to  hold  the  lace  a  little  full  with  the 
thumb  as  one  sews.  Small  overhanding  stitches  will  hold 
the  fullness  as  it  is  distributed  evenly.  The  right  side 
of  the  lace  is  placed  towards  the  right  side  of  the  inser- 
tion so  that  the  two  edges  of  lace  and  insertion  are  over- 
handed  together.  Sometimes,  if  the  neck  of  a  gown 
is  too  big  and  one  wishes  to  make  it  smaller,  tucks  can 
be  put  in  groups  at  the  center  front  or  back,  in  number 
according  to  the  amount  to  be  taken  up.  In  calculating 
for  tucks,  one  must  remember  that  the  tuck  takes  up 
twice  the  amount  of  material  as  the  width  of  tuck 
desired,  and  covers  its  own  width  in  lying  flat.  If 
tucks  are  used  to  make  the  neck  size  smaller,  it  will  be 
found  more  satisfactory  to  put  a  narrow  facing  around 
the  neck  before  trimming. 

To  seam  the  ends  of  lace,  make  a  plain  seam  on  the 
wrong  side.  Lay  it  flat,  turn  under  the  two  edges 
together,  and  hem  in  a  narrow  hem. 

A  pretty  way  to  finish  the  edges  of  neck  and  sleeves 
is  with  bias  bands.  Cut  strips  as  for  the  pot  holder  (see 


IOO 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


page  25).  White,  pink,  or  blue  lawn  may  be  used  for 
contrast.  Cut  the  bands  2^  inches  wide.  They  will 
look  one  inch  wide  finished.  Place  on  the  right  side, 
right  of  lawn  to  right  of  gown.  Make  \  inch  seam  and 
stitch.  Turn  to  wrong  side.  Turn  under  I  inch  and 
hem  to  wrong  side.  Another  way  to  finish  is  to  baste  the 

band  and  decorate 
it  with  the  feath- 
erstitch to  hold 
the  turning.  This 
stitch  is  a  pretty 
decoration  (see 
page  120).  It  is 
placed  on  the  right 
side  and  at  the 
bottom  of  the 
band.  It  should 
be  made  with 
white  cotton  em- 
broidery thread  ;  #25  D.M.C.  cotton  is  very  good  for 
such  finishings. 

The  neckband  will  need  a  tape  or  a  ribbon  to  hold 
the  fullness  of  the  band  close  to  the  neck.  The  binding 
should  be  started  and  finished  at  the  front,  and  the  ends 
of  binding  should  be  turned  in  (Fig.  60).  This  will 
leave  an  opening  where  the  ribbon  can  be  run  in.  This 
is  a  satisfactory  finish  and  is  not  expensive.  The  lawn 
is  12  or  15  cents  a  yard  ;  and  \  yard  will  cut  enough 
bands  for  several  girls'  gowns.  The  D.M.C.  cotton 


FIG.  60.  —  Nightdress    with    sleeves    set   in,    and 
sleeves  and  neck  finished  with  bias  bands. 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  101 

will  cost  only  two  cents  a  skein.     Send  for  these  in 
time. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Can  you  suggest  any  other  finish  for  the  nightdress  ? 

2.  If  you  should  wish  to  add  3  tucks  each  ^  inch  wide  at  the 
bottom  of  your  gown  and  with  |  inch  space  between  them,  how 
many  extra  inches  in  length  would  you  have  to  add  to  your  gown 
length  ?     The  Pleasant  Valley  girls  worked  this  out  in  their  arith- 
metic class. 

LESSON  12 

CHOOSING    A    PATTERN    AND    MATERIAL    FOR    A    WHITE     PETTICOAT 

Do  you  think  you  can  send  for  the  cotton  material  and  for  a 
pattern  for  a  petticoat  ?  What  kind  of  cloth  will  you  use  ?  Per- 
haps you  would  prefer  to  make  a  slip  instead  of  a  skirt. 

Who  can  remember  the  names  of  the  best  cotton 
materials  for  underwear  ?  What  shall  we  choose  for 
our  petticoats  or  slips  ?  Look  at  the  pattern  book  and 
choose  a  simple  petticoat.  We  shall  learn  to  make  one 
with  a  ruffle.  It  is  very  useful  in  summer  to  wear 
under  thin  dresses,  although  some  girls  may  prefer  to 
make  a  slip  which  combines  petticoat  and  waist. 
What  sizes  shall  we  order  ?  How  much  cloth  will  be 
required  ?  We  shall  need  three  lengths  of  cloth  for 
the  skirt.  Let  us  take  our  length  measures  for  the 
skirt,  allowing  four  inches  extra  for  hem  and  finishing. 
Those  who  wish  to  make  ruffles  of  the  material  will  need 
one  yard  extra  of  same  cloth  or  of  lawn.  Which  will  be 
less  expensive,  a  ruffle  of  Hamburg  embroidery  edging 


IO2 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


or  a  ruffle  of  lawn   decorated  with   a  fancy  stitch  ? 

Which  will  take  longer  to  prepare  ? 

The  girls   of  Pleasant   Valley   School  decide  on   a 

pattern    with    five    gores.     What    does    that    mean  ? 

Would  you  prefer 
some  other  ?  Why 
is  the  five-gored 
pattern  a  good  one 
for  the  petticoat  ? 

The  girls  choose 
cambric  for  their 
petticoats.  Some 
decide  to  buy  the 
lawn  and  to  make 
the  ruffle  with  a 
simple  decoration. 
In  calculating  for 
the  ruffle,  allow  i£ 
times  the  width  of 
the  skirt.  This  is 
full  enough.  The 
depth  of  the  ruffle 
is  according  to  de- 

FIG.  61.  — A  simple  petticoat.  s[re          J^      may      be 

from  5  to  10  inches  deep.  Cut  it  across  the  warp. 
Can  you  tell  why  ?  Others  may  decide  to  make  a 
simple  ruffle  of  the  same  material  with  a  decorated  hem  ; 
a  few  may  use  the  Hamburg  ruffle.  Which  ruffle  will 
you  decide  to  use  for  your  skirt  or  the  bottom  of  your  slip? 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  103 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Calculate  how  much  material  you  will  need  for  your  petticoat 
without  the  ruffle. 

2.  Calculate  the  amount  for  the  ruffle. 

3.  How  will  the  patterns  help  you  to  make  these  calculations  ? 

LESSON  13 

LEARNING   TO    MAKE   THE    PETTICOAT 

The  girls  of  Pleasant  Valley  have  had  so  much  practice  that  the 
petticoat  will  not  be  a  difficult  task.  Do  you  think  you  will  find 
it  easy  too  ? 

Mollie  Stark  is  delighted  to  make  the  petticoat,  for 
she  needs  one  to  wear  under  the  new  dotted  Swiss  dress 
that  mother  made  for  her  birthday.  She  saw  in  the 
"  Pleasant  Valley  News  "  that  there  will  be  an  unusual 
sale  of  Hamburg  edgings  ;  and  she  thinks  she  will  go  to 
town  and  see  if  it  is  something  she  can  use.  Miss 
James  told  the  girls  that  Hamburg  edging  which  is  full 
of  holes  and  in  which  the  pattern  is  poor  and  poorly 
embroidered,  is  not  worth  buying.  The  edge  is  usually 
very  weak  and  pulls  out  after  one  or  two  washings. 
The  Hamburg  edging  called  "  blind  embroidery  "  has 
no  holes  and  is  likely  to  be  firmer. 

Let  us  study  briefly  how  the  petticoats  are  to  be 
made : 

i.  Cutout,  Follow  pattern,  placing  economically.  Allow  extra 
for  hem,  if  necessary,  and  one  inch  for  receiving  tuck  under  which 
the  ruffle  will  be-placed.  Fold  pieces  left  over ;  they  will  be  needed. 


io4  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

2.  Pin  and  baste  gores.     Be  careful  to  match  notches — front, 
then  side  gore  at  each  side,  then  back  gore  at  each  side  of  side  gore, 
five  in  all.     Pin  from  top  down.     Baste  from  bottom  up  with  bias 
edge  towards  worker.     Holding  thus  prevents  stretching. 

3.  Make  French  seams  by  machine. 

4.  Make  hem  on  bottom.     Baste  a  two  or  three  inch  hem   as 
planned.     Stitch.     Sometimes  dust  ruffles  of  the  same  cloth  or  of 
lawn  are  placed  on  the  bottom  of  the  skirt  instead  of  a  hem.     They 
are  made  about  3  or  4  inches  wide  and  cut  across  warp  of  cloth.  The 
skirt  is  then  cut  3  or  4  inches  shorter,  and  the  ruffle  makes  the  length 
by  being  added  at  bottom  under  a  tuck  f  inch  wide.     This  ruffle 
has  \  inch  hem  on  the  bottom  edge  and  is  sewed  to  skirt  with  a  seam 
on  the  right  side.     The  tuck  is  made  directly  above  it  and  is  stitched 
flat  to  cover  the  raw  edges.     A  hem  at  the  bottom  is  enough,  and 
is  suitable  for  young  girls,  when  a  ruffle  is  to  be  added  above  for 
decoration  and  fullness. 

5.  Prepare  tuck  on  skirt  for  ruffle.     Measure  from  bottom  of 
skirt  depth  of  ruffle.     At  that  point  make  a  tuck  f  inch  deep. 
Baste  and  stitch.     This  must  be  same  distance  from  the  bottom 
of  skirt  all  the  way  around,  and  on  the  right  side  of  skirt.     It  is 
not  always  necessary  to  use  a  tuck.     A  bias  band  can  be  used 
instead  or  a  beading  to  cover  the  raw  edges  of  the  ruffle. 

6.  Prepare  ruffle.     This  may  be  of  lawn  with  edge  hemmed  and 
decorated  with  featherstitch,  or  it  may  be  of  Hamburg  edging  or 
of  same  material  with  scalloped  edge  (see  page  142).     A  ruffle  of  the 
same  material  with  a  simple  \  inch  hem  may  also  be  used.     The 
width  of  ruffle  is  half  as  full  again  as  the  width  of  skirt.     The 
depth  can  be  5-10  inches  as  desired.     Divide  ruffle  in  quarters, 
and  gather. 

7.  To  join  ruffle  to  skirt.     Divide  skirt  in  quarters.     Pin  quar- 
tered  ruffle  in   place.     Draw  up  gathering  threads  to  fit  skirt. 
Wind  thread  around  pins  to  hold.     Baste.     If  a  receiving  tuck  has 
been  made,  turn  it  down  over  the  raw  edge  of  ruffle  and  baste  and 
stitch  on  very  edge  of  tuck.     If  a  tuck  has  not  been  made,  baste 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  105 

over  the  raw  edges  of  ruffle  a  band  of  finishing  braid  or  beading  or  a 
bias  strip  of  the  same  cloth  as  the  skirt,  f  inch  wide ;  stitch  on  both 
edges. 

8.  To  make  placket.     Use  straight  strip  2  inches  wide.     Start  at 
waist  line,  right  of  strip  to  right  of  skirt.     Sew  all  around  placket 
opening.     Stitch.     Turn  to  wrong   side.     Hem   down   by  hand. 
Lap  at  bottom  of  opening  so  it  lies  flat.     Backstitch  across  the 
bottom  with  a  slanting  line  of  stitches.     This  makes  a  flat  back 
with  no  fullness  and  is  called  a  bound  placket. 

9.  To  finish  top  of  skirt.     Cut  bias  strip  of  cloth  about  one  inch 
wide ;   sew  to  right  side.     Turn  over  to  wrong  side  even  with  top ; 
turn  so  as  to  be  \  inch  wide  finished ;    stitch  on  edge,  flat.     Lap 
skirt  in  back  with  three  buttonholes,  one  at  waist  and  two  below 
in  placket  lap. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Calculate  how  much  ruffling  of  Hamburg  edging  will  be 
needed  for  a  skirt  ^\  yards  around. 

2.  Get  samples  of  embroidery  and  pin  to  the  Bulletin  Board, 
where  all  the  girls  may  see  them. 

3.  Practice  making  a  receiving  tuck. 

4.  See  if  you  can  plan  a  section  of  a  dust  ruffle  for  a  petticoat. 
Make  the  skirt  part  of  brown  paper  with  tissue  for  the  ruffle. 

LESSON  14 

HOW   TO   MAKE    A   CORSET   COVER 

The  new  problem  of  corset  cover  is  not  difficult,  if  one  has  learned 
all  the  preceding  lessons.  Let  us  study  how  to  trim  this  garment  or 
the  waist  of  a  slip. 

Some  of  the  girls  of  Pleasant  Valley  will  make  com- 
binations of  corset  cover  and  skirt,  and  others  the  corset 
cover  (Fig.  62).  They  decide  to  use  nainsook  and  to 


io6 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


trim  them  with  German  Valenciennes  lace.  About  i| 
yards  of  cloth  are  necessary.  They  have  sent  for  a 
simple  pattern  and  will  make  them  partly  by  hand. 

Miss  James  gave 
them  the  following 
directions : 

1.  To    cut.      Place 
pattern  economically. 
Pin  and  cut. 

2.  Baste.     Pin  and 
baste  under-arm  seams 
and     shoulders. 
Sew  French  seams  by 
machine. 

3 .  Make  front  laps. 
On  left  side  make  hem 
£  inch  wide  turned  to 
wrong  side.     On  right 
front    make    hem 
turned  to  right  side  £ 
inch  wide.     Stitch  this 
|  inch  from  each  edge 
to  form  front  lap.     It 
could  be  run  by  hand 

if  all  handmade  or  featherstitched  with  tiny  stitches.  This  lap 
is  for  the  buttonholes,  which  are  made  vertically,  three  or  four 
in  the  lap.  If  it  is  desired  to  conceal  the  buttons,  make  an  extra 
strip  for  buttonholes  and  stitch  under  the  right  front  lap  with 
the  stitching  of  hem. 

4.  Finish  bottom.     Even  the  bottom,  and  make  as  a  finish  a 
narrow  hem  |  inch  wide. 

5.  Gather  at  waist  line.     In  center  fronts  and  in  middle  of  center 


FIG.  62.  —  A  simple  corset  cover. 


MAKING  SIMPLE  GARMENTS  107 

back,  gather  at  the  waist  line  to  fit  figure.  Baste  on  inside  of 
waist  over  these  adjusted  gathers  a  straight  band  |  inch  wide,  with 
edges  turned.  Baste  and  stitch  this  top  and  bottom  to  hold 
gathers.  Waist  line  can,  also,  be  finished,  if  desired,  on  right  side 
with  beading  or  with  a  band. 

6.  To  finish  top  of  cover  and  sleeves.  Make  the  same  finish  as 
for  kimono  night  dress.  This  is  neat  and  attractive.  The  top  of 
the  corset  cover  can  be  gathered  to  fit  the  figure,  or  tiny  hand  or 
machine  tucks  of  |  inch  in  width  may  be  run  about  three  inches 
deep  each  side  of  the  front  laps,  five  or  six  tiny  ones  being  made  on 
each  side,  according  to  the  amount  of  fullness  to  be  taken  in.  The 
top  can  be  finished  with  a  Hamburg  beading  for  ribbon,  sewed  on 
with  a  French  seam ;  and  then  lace  may  be  overhanded  on  the  edge 
of  it.  The  finish  of  the  sleeves  should  correspond  to  the  neck  finish. 

EXERCISES   AND    PROBLEMS 

Calculate  how  much  beading  and  lace  or  lace  alone  will  be 
necessary  to  trim  a  corset  cover.  Draw  sketch  of  how  it  is  to  be 
decorated. 

REVIEW   PROBLEMS 

I.  Practice  sewing  on  the  machine  at  home.     Learn  to  turn 
good  square  corners  and  to  stitch  straight. 

II.  Plan  to  make  a  slip  or  some  extra  garment  at  home,  using  the 
principles  and  knowledge  gained  at  school,  in  sewing  seams,  trim- 
ming and  making. 

III.  In  what  ways  are  you  planning  to  protect  your  body  at 
night  ?     How  do  you  ventilate  your  room  ?     How  air  your  clothes  ? 


CHAPTER   III 

LEARNING  TO  MAKE  SOME  ATTRACTIVE  GIFTS  FOR 
CHRISTMAS  OR   FOR  A   BIRTHDAY   PRESENT 

Perhaps  you  would  like  to  surprise  mother  or  father 
at  Christmas  time  or  to  make  a  birthday  gift  for  grand- 
mother or  auntie.  All  the  Pleasant  Valley  School  girls 
have  made  plans  for  Christmas.  Making  gifts  is  not 
difficult,  if  one  gives  thought  and  time,  and  need  not 
be  a  great  expense,  if  one  is  careful  to  use  scraps  of 
cloth.  Look  in  the  attic  or  in  the  piece  bag  to  see  if 
there  are  any  scraps  of  silk.  If  you  are  making  a  gift 
for  mother,  I  am  sure  grandmother  will  help  you  to 
find  something.  Giving  is  much  fun  when  one  can 
make  the  gift  a  surprise.  Grandmother  Allen  and 
Grandmother  Stark  are  helping  the  Pleasant  Valley 
girls  with  their  surprises.  It  is  not  the  cost  of  a  gift 
which  counts,  but  the  loving  thought  which  one  puts 
into  it.  A  surprise  birthday  pudding  or  cake,  a  sur- 
prise apron  or  work  bag,  are  all  things  into  which  we 
can  put  loving  thought.  Who  said  the  "  gift  without 
the  giver  is  bare  "  ?  What  does  that  mean  ?  Have 

108 


MAKING  GIFTS  109 

you  ever  given  a  gift  or  received  one  into  which  no 
loving  thought  had  been  put  ?  See  how  much  happier 
you  will  feel  when  you  give  thought,  too. 

The  girls  of  the  Pleasant  Valley  Sewing  League 
think  they  will  make  something  for  their  fair.  Miss 
James  has  a  box  full  of  samples  of  silk  from  a  whole- 
sale house,  which  were  given  to  her.  She  says  the 
girls  may  have  them.  Some  of  the  pieces  are  very 
large  and  can  be  used  for  many  things.  Next  lesson 
you  might  do  as  they  did,  and  all  bring  any  pieces 
you  may  have  and  see  what  can  be  made  from  them. 

LESSON  i 

THE    STORY    OF    HOW    SILK    IS    PRODUCED 

Do  you  know  that  a  tiny  little  worm  gives  us  our  silk  dresses, 
hair  ribbons,  neckties,  gloves,  stockings,  and  many  other  useful 
things  ?  Do  you  know  how  the  worm  makes  the  silk  ?  It  is  a 
very  wonderful  story.  Let  us  study  about  silk  to-day. 

In  the  picture  (Fig.  63)  you  will  see  one  of  the  silk- 
worms full-grown.  The  mother  and  father  were  beauti- 
ful moths.  The  mother  moth  lays  the  little  eggs 
on  the  leaves  of  the  mulberry  tree  because  they!  are 
good  food  for  her  baby  worms.  The  sunshine  and 
warmth  hatch  the  little  eggs.  The  eggs  are  like  pin- 
heads,  and  are  smaller  than  tiny  grains  of  chopped 
corn  which  you  feed"  your  chickens.  Your  mother 
hen  sets  on  the  eggs  until  the  warmth  makes  the  chicks 
grow,  but  the  sunshine  starts  the  tiny  moth  eggs. 


no  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

Soon  a  little  baby  worm  comes  out  and  is  as  small  as 
a  tiny  thread.  It  grows  and  grows  and  eats  and  eats, 
until  it  is  about  three  inches  long  and  nearly  as  thick 
around  as  one  of  your  fingers,  as  the  picture  shows 


ounesy  of  Corticellt  Silk  Co.    Copyright,  1896,  Nonotuck  Silk  Co. 
FIG.  63.  —  Corticelli  silkworm,  eating. 

(Fig.  63).  It  takes  about  a  month  for  the  worm  to 
grow  so  large.  It  must  be  tended  very  carefully 
and  given  the  right  food,  or  it  will  die.  The  food  must 
be  chopped  fine.  It  is  like  preparing  milk  for  baby ; 
is  it  not  ?  They  must,  also,  be  kept  very  clean  in 
order  to  grow.  Cleanliness  always  helps  animals, 
as  well  as  people,  to  grow. 

Have  you  heard  that  there  are  some  countries  where 
the  silkworm  grows  better  than  in  others  ?  Can  you 
name  the  countries  producing '  the  most  silk  ?  You 
have  learned  that  in  your  geography.  Yes,  Japan 
and  China  and  Italy.  Yes,  and  France  and  Asia 


MAKING  GIFTS 


in 


Minor,  too.  Do  you  think  the  United  States  pro- 
duces very  much  silk  ?  Why  not  ?  In  the  countries 
named,  labor  is  not  so  expensive.  Silkworms  require 
much  care  and  labor. 

Silk  is  the  most  beautiful  and  the  strongest  of  the 
common  fibers.  It  also  costs  the  most.  The  silk 
fiber  produced  by  these 
tiny  worms  is  often  four 
thousand  feet  in  length. 
Let  us  learn  how  the  tiny 
worm  does  such  a  won- 
derful thing.  He  must 
work  as  hard  as  the  busy 
bee. 

After  the  worm  is  full- 
grown  he  begins  his  busy 
work.  This  is  like  boys 
and  girls  ;  they,  too,  begin 
to  work  when  they  are 

If    Well     fed     and 


-  courtesy  a/United  States  Department  of  Agriculture. 
clean,  the  WOrm  will  WOrk      FIG.  64.  —  The  houses  or  cocoons  built  by 

well.     This  is  apt  to  be 

true  of  girls  and  boys,  too.  The  worm  begins  by  making 
a  house  for  himself  called  a  cocoon  (Fig.  64).  Have  you 
ever  seen  the  cocoons  of  any  moth  ?  If  you  will  look, 
you  will  find  them  on  the  trees.  Miss  James  has  some 
cocoons  of  the  lovely  green  Luna  moth.  She  put 
the  green  worm  in  the  box,  and  it  has  spun  a  cocoon. 
We  do  not  find  the  mulberry  worm  growing  wild  in 


H2  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

the  United  States.  In  some  countries  it  grows  wild, 
just  as  our  Luna  moth. 

When  the  worm  is  ready  to  spin,  she  throws  out  two 
tiny  little  threads  one  from  each  side  of  her  head. 
This  is  a  secretion  and  is  a  kind  of  jellylike  fluid.  As 
the  air  touches  it,  it  hardens.  She  works  her  head 
back  and  forth,  and  the  tiny  filaments,  or  threads, 
as  they  are  called,  are  joined  together  into  one.  She 
works  and  works  until  she  has  built  a  house  of  silk 
threads  all  glued  together  so  that  it  seems  like  a  mass 
of  parchment  paper.  These  houses  are  about  i^ 
inches  in  length,  and  are  white  or  yellow  in  color.  In 
China  and  Japan  these  cocoons  are  grown  and  tended 
very  carefully.  The  outside  of  the  cocoon  is  cov- 
ered with  the  loose  fluffy  silk  which  the  worm  uses 
to  attach  his  home  to  a  leaf  or  twig.  It  takes  the 
worm  three  weeks  to  make  this  long,  continuous  thread 
called  a  cocoon.  During  that  time  a  wonderful  thing 
happens.  The  worm  inside  the  cocoon  is  changed  to 
a  moth  like  her  mother  and  father  and  is  ready  to 
leave  her  home  by  eating  her  way  out.  What  would 
happen  to  the  long  silk  thread  if  she  did  that  ?  Yes, 
it  would  be  broken  into  small  pieces  and  not  be  one 
continuous  piece.  Some  moths  are  permitted  to  come 
out  (see  Fig.  65).  They  then  find  a  mate  and  soon 
more  tiny  eggs  are  laid  by  the  mother  moth  ;  and  all 
the  story  begins  again. 

A  sad  thing  happens  when  cocoons  are  grown  for 
the  silk.  The  moths  are  not  allowed  to  come  out 


MAKING  GIFTS  113 

and  break  the  thread ;  but  are  put  in  a  very  hot 
place  so  they  die  inside.  The  cocoons  are  then 
ready  to .  be  reeled  or  wound  off.  They  are  placed 
in  basins  of  hot  water  because  the  gummy  secretion 
of  the  worm  must  be  softened.  The  ends  from 
four  or  five  cocoons  are  caught  together  and  reeled, 
or  wound,  off  together.  This  makes  a  strand  of  raw 
silk. 

John  Alden  told  the  following  story.     He  said  his 


Courtesy  of  Corticelli  Silt  Co.    Com/right,  1895,  by  Nonotuck  Silk  Co. 
FIG.  65.  —  Corticelli  cocoons  from  which  the  moths  have  emerged. 

father  read  it  aloud  the  night  before  when  the  family 
gathered  about  the  big  open  fire.  Once  upon  a  time, 
long  ago,  people  did  not  know  how  to  use  the  beautiful 
fibers  of  the  silkworm.  We  are  told  that  a  Chinese 
empress  discovered  how  to  use  it  as  long  ago  as  2700 
years  before  the  birth  of  Christ.  Every  year,  in  April, 
the  Chinese  people  have  a  celebration  in  her  honor, 
because  of  her  valuable  discovery.  Think  of  all  the 
riches  she  added  to  her  country  because  of  this  secret. 


n4  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

It  is  said  that  for  many  years  this  secret  was  kept ; 
but  later  some  monks  traveling  east  to  India  and 
Constantinople  told  others  how  to  reel  the  silk  fiber. 
Then  the  use  of  silk  fiber  spread  to  Greece  and  Italy 
and  Spain,  and  by  the  fourteenth  century  was  common 


Courtesy  of  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture. 
FIG.  66.  —  Silk  reeling.     The  cocoons  are  in  the  basins  before  the  women. 

in  France.  Since  then,  silk  manufacture  has  grown 
rapidly  in  importance.  John  traced  the  journey  on  the 
map.  Will  you  see  if  you  can  trace  this  journey  of  silk 
manufacture.  Where  do  you  think  the  secret  was 
carried  from  France  ? 

Can  you    send   for   some    cocoons    and    raw    silk  ? 
Your  teacher  will  tell  you  where  to  write.     Raw  silk, 


MAKING  GIFTS  115 

as  it  is  wound  from  cocoons,  is  made  up  into  hanks 
like  the  worsted  which  you  buy  at  the  store.  It  is 
sold  in  hanks  by  the  pound  and  costs  from  $7.00  to 
$10.00  a  pound.  It  takes  three  thousand  silkworms 
to  spin  a  pound  of  raw  silk.  Do  you  know  that  for 
grandmother's  dress  about  two  pounds  of  raw  silk 
were  necessary  ?  Can  you  tell  how  many  worms  were 
kept  busy  ? 

In  another  lesson  we  shall  learn  how  the  manufacturer 
of  silk  ribbons  or  silk  material  takes  the  raw  silk  and 
makes  it  into  beautiful  fabrics.  Now  we  know  about 
a  useful  little  animal  as  well  as  about  a  plant  which 
gives  us  clothing.  Silk,  however,  is  more  expensive 
than  cotton.  Cotton  is  sometimes  made  to  look  like 
silk.  The  cotton  fiber  is  mercerized,  which  means 
soaked  in  certain  chemicals  and  stretched  to  make  it 
look  silky.  Lisle  thread  looks  somewhat  like  silk. 
It  is  cotton  twisted  hard  to  give  it  a  luster.  Another 
day  we  shall  learn  more  about  these. 

EXERCISES   AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Do  you  know  where  silk  is  grown?     Write  a  story  of  100 
words  telling  about  it. 

2.  Why  is  not  more  silk  grown  in  the  United  States  ? 

3.  Find  on  your  map  of  the  world  the  principal  countries  where 
silk  is  grown. 

4.  Name  some  articles  made  of  silk  which  you  use  every  day ; 
which  you  see  used. 

5.  What   are   some  of  the    other    uses    which    we    have    for 
silk  ? 


n6  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

LESSON  2 

SIMPLE    ARTICLES    EASILY   MADE    FROM    SILK    SCRAPS 

There  are  so  many  things  which  can  be  made  from  silks.  Sup- 
pose you  start  with  something  easy.  Miss  James  had  some  good 
suggestions.  The  little  pin-case  or  the  sewing-case  are  both  useful 
(Figs.  68  and  69).  You  know  the  overhanding  stitch;  so  you  can 
make  them  quickly.  Several  of  the  Pleasant  Valley  girls  will 
make  them  for  Christmas  gifts  as  well  as  for  the  fair.  Which 
will  you  make  ? 

Here  are  the  directions  for  making  both  the  pin-case 
and  the  sewing-case.  They  are  not  difficult  if  the 
directions  are  followed  carefully. 

For  the  Pin-case.     Cut  two  circles  of  stiff  cardboard  from  2  to  3 
inches  in  diameter,  if  your  silk  pieces  will  permit.     The  circles 
must  be  exact.     Cut  two  pieces  of  silk  3  or 
4  inches  in  diameter,  so  the  silk  pieces  will 
be  \  inch  larger  all  around  than  the  card- 
board.    \  inch  from  the  edge,  with  double 
thread,  make  a  row  of  gathering  stitches ; 
slip  cardboard  within  and  draw  up  the  silk 
around  the  card.    Now  crisscross  with  your 
thread  through  the  edges  of  material  until 
all  is  held  firmly  (Fig.  67).     Cover  both 
cards.     Then  hold  the  two  together,  and 
FIG.  67. -This  shows  how  very  neatly  overhand  with  silk  thread  of  a 
to  cover  the  circle,  and   color  to  match.     Tiny  stitches  should  be 
draw  the  silk  neatly  at  taken.     Put  in  a  row  of  pins  around  the 
edges  close  together.     A  pretty  decoration 

can  be  made  by  working  a  design  or  an  initial  on  the  silk  if  it  is 
a  plain  color.  This  can  be  done  with  chain  stitch  or  featherstitch, 
before  the  cover  is  put  over  the  cardboard. 


MAKING  GIFTS 


117 


In  the  picture  (Fig.  68)  notice  the  other  cases.  They  are  made 
exactly  like  the  pin-case  but  of  circles  or  of  pieces  of  different  shape. 


FIG.  68.  —  Several  useful  cases:  A,  pin-case;   B,  oval  pin-case;    C,  spool-case; 
D,  darning-case;  E,  needle-book. 

Cases   for  doilies  can  be  made  of  two  large  circles  of  12  in.  in 
diameter.     The  circles  can  be  tied  together  with  ribbon  and  the 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


doilies  lie  flat  between.     The  case  for  darning  thread  is  also  very 

useful. 

For  the  sewing  case.     This  is  more  difficult.     It  is  three-sided 

and  is  made  of  three  elliptical  disks  covered  as  we  did  the 
round  ones  for  the  pincase.  How  many 
cardboards  will  you  need  ?  Thin  card- 
board is  necessary.  What  does  ellip- 
tical mean  ?  A  good  size  is  4  inches 
the  long  way  and  2^  inches  across. 
All  the  girls  know  how  to  draw  an 
ellipse.  Cut  the  six  pieces  of  silk 
\  inch  larger  all  around  than  the 
ellipses,  and  cover  in  same  way  as 
you  did  the  round  disks.  If  there 
are  not  enough  scraps  of  one  color, 
use  a  contrasting  color  for  the  lining. 
After  the  six  pieces  have  been  covered 
and  joined  together  to  make  three 
ellipses,  then  the  three  are  to  be  over- 

FIG.    69. —  The    sewing    case    handed  together  very  neatly,  leaving 
made  of  three  elliptical  disks    Open  the  third  edge,  which  is  the  open- 
ing of  the  case  where  the  spools,  etc. 

are  put  inside.     The  case  naturally  closes  itself;  but,  when  pressed 

at  the  ends,  it  opens  easily. 

What. are  some  pretty  stitches  that  may  be  used  for 
decorating  ?  If  one  wishes,  the  sewing  case  can  also  be 
decorated  with  a  good  design  like  the  one  in  the  picture 
(Fig.  69).  Would  you  like  to  make  the  chain  stitch  and 
the  featherstitch  ?  They  are  both  useful  for  decoration 
on  bags,  aprons,  dresses  for  baby,  underwear,  and  many 
things.  Mollie  Stark  learned  this  stitch  and  used  it  on 
a  dress  for  her  baby  brother.  Mrs.  Stark  is  very 


MAKING  GIFTS 


119 


happy  to  think  Mollie  is  learning  how  to  sew.     These 
are  the  directions  for  making  several  pretty  stitches : 

The  chain  stitch  is  easy  to  learn.  Begin  with  a  knot.  Pass  the 
thread  from  the  under  side  up.  Throw  the  thread  so  as  to  make 
an  O  (see  Fig.  70).  Put  the  needle 
into  the  hole  where  thread  came 
through,  and  make  a  stitch  about 
|  inch  long.  Hold  the  cloth  over 
the  fingers  with  the  thumb  on  top. 
The  needle  should  be  pointed  towards 
the  worker,  and  the  point  of  the 
needle  should  be  brought  up  through 
the  little  round  O.  Care  must  be 
taken  in  pulling  the  thread  through 
to  have  the  loop  of  thread  lying  flat 
on  the  cloth.  The  length  of  stitch 
should  be  uniform.  What  does  uni- 
form mean  ?  The  outline  of  an  ini- 
tial or  any  drawn  design  can  be 
followed  with  this  stitch. 

The  featherstitch  is  very  beautiful 
when  made  small  and  even  (Fig. 
71).  It  can  be  varied  by  making 
one  or  two  stitches  on  each  side  of 
a  center  line.  The  length  of  the 
stitches  and  the  slant  always  affect 
the  appearance.  In  practicing  the 
featherstitch  draw  a  pencil  line  on 
your  cloth  as  a  guide.  The  stitches 

are  slanting  and  are  taken  towards 
,  .      ,.  %_,,  .          ...  .     .  ric.  70. —  I  he  chain  stitch. 

this  line.      I  his  stitch   is   used   for 

decoration  in  the  same  way  as  the  chain  stitch. 

The  single  featherstitch.     Hold  the  werk  over  the   finger  with 


120 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


thumb  on  top  of  cloth.  Work  towards  you.  Start  with  knot  on 
under  side  of  pencil  line.  Draw  thread  through  to  right  side. 
Lay  thread  on  the  pencil  line  and  hold  with  thumb.  To  right  of 


-A  B 

FIG.  71.  —  A,  the  single  featherstitch;   B,  the  double  featherstitch. 

thread  near  beginning,  take  a  small  \  inch  slanting  stitch  towards 
the  line  of  thread.  Draw  needle  through  over  the  loop  of  thread. 
Have  it  loose  and  lying  flat.  For  the  second  stitch,  hold  thread 
again  on  the  pencil  mark.  Throw  thread  for  next  stitch  on  the 


MAKING  GIFTS 


121 


left  of  the  line.  Take  slanting  stitch  towards  center  line.  Draw 
needle  up  through  the  loop,  which  should  lie  flat.  The  next  stitch 
is  taken  to  the  right  of  the  center  line  directly  under  the  stitch 

above  it,  and  should  be  the  same          ^_ 

length  and  slant.  The  beauty  of 
this  stitch  depends  on  its  evenness.  A 
striped  material  makes  a  good  prac- 
tice piece.  After  the  stitch  is  learned, 
it  is  easy  to  make  it  on  plain  cloth ; 
but  one  must  then  keep  constantly 
in  mind  an  imaginary  center  line. 
This  is  a  very  useful  stitch  for  finish- 
ing hems  instead  of  using  the  hem- 
ming stitch.  The  lawn  ruffles  on 
our  petticoats  were  finished  with 
this  stitch.  The  featherstitch  is 
sometimes  a  straight  stitch  instead 
of  slanting.  It  is  taken  each  side 
of  the  imaginary  center  line  as  the 
slanting  one,  but  the  needle  is  held 
straight. 

The  outline  stitch.  This  is  another 
easy  stitch  (Fig.  72)  which  every  girl 
should  learn.  It  can  be  used  instead 
of  the  chain  or  featherstitch,  as  deco- 
ration. It  outlines,  or  follows,  the 
design,  and  so  gets  its  name.  The 
stitch  is  taken  on  the  line  and  is 
worked  from  left  to  right.  Care 
must  be  taken  to  have  the  stitches 


A 


FIG.  72.  —  The  outline  stitch. 


all  the  same  length  and  to  throw  the  thread  in  one  direction  either 
away  from  or  towards  the  worker.  The  pretty  effect  will  be  spoiled 
if  there  is  a  variation.  Away  from  the  worker  makes  a  neat  effect. 
Begin  with  knot.  Draw  needle  to  right  side  on  the  line.  Throw 


122  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

thread  away  from  worker;  take  a  small  ba,ck  stitch  on  the  line, 
needle  pointing  towards  the  worker.  This  will  make  a  long  thread 
on  the  surface  and  the  short  stitch  beneath.  The  effect  is  much 
prettier  when  the  stitches  are  taken  close  together. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Name  some  other  articles  on    which    the   featherstitch  or 
chain  stitch  can  be  used ;    some  on  which  the  outline  stitch  may 
be  used. 

2.  Draw  a  picture  on  the  blackboard  of  the  featherstitch,  chain 
stitch,  and  outline  stitch.     Can  you  show  how  the  needle  looks  in 
position,  without  looking  at  your  textbook  ? 


LESSON  3 

THE  NAMES  AND  USES  OF  SEVERAL  SILKS  ARE  DISCUSSED 

To-day  we  shall  study  again  about  silks.  Let  us  look  at  those 
in  Miss  James'  piece  bag ;  and,  also,  see  how  many  different  kinds 
we  have  for  our  gifts.  Perhaps  your  teacher  has  some  too. 

Such  a  variety  of  kinds  and  colors  !  Some  are  soft 
and  light,  and  others  are  heavy  and  stiff.  Do  they 
have  names  just  as  the  cotton  materials  ? 

Can  any  one  tell  the  names  of  any  of  these  silks  ? 
Yes,  the  plain  one  is  a  taffeta.  It  is  plain  in  color  ;  and 
the  weave  is  plain,  the  same  on  both  sides.  Some- 
times it  comes  with  printed  and  woven  figures.  What 
is  the  difference  between  a  woven  and  a  printed  design  ? 
Here  is  a  piece  with  a  printed  design.  It  is  a  foulard 
silk.  How  does  this  design  differ  from  the  taffeta 
with  the  design  ?  Foulard  silk  is  used  for  dresses. 


MAKING  GIFTS  123 

Taffeta  is  also ;  as  well  as  for  linings  and  for  petti- 
coats. A  cheap  quality  of  taffeta  does  not  wear  well. 
It  costs  from  75  cents  to  $2.00  a  yard,  and  is  woven 
21  inches  and  wider.  Foulards  are  about  24  inches 
wide  and  can  be  bought  for  the  same  price  as  the 
taffetas.  Mollie's  mother  had  a  foulard  silk  dress 
last  summer ;  so  did  Grandmother  Allen. 

Here  is  a  soft  crinkling  white  piece  and  a  dark  blue 
just  like  it ;  and  also  a  black  piece.  These  are  called 
crepe  de  chine  and  are  used  for  dresses,  also  ;  and  some- 
times for  underwear.  It  is  soft  and  lustrous,  and 
comes  in  plain  colors  and  sometimes  printed.  It 
costs  from  75  cents  up  and  is  woven  22  inches  and 
sometimes  wider. 

Shall  we  start  another  book  of  materials,  and  see 
how  many  silks  we  can  learn  about  ? 

The  piece  Barbara  Oakes  brought  is  smooth  and 
shiny  on  the  right  side.  Does  anyone  know  the  name  ? 
It  is  woven  in  such  a  way  that  the  filling  thread  goes 
over  several  threads  and  under  one.  Try  it  on  your 
school  loom.  This  weave  brings  most  of  the  filling 
thread  on  the  surface  of  the  cloth.  The  material  is 
called  satin,  and  the  weave  is  the  satin  weave.  Some 
cottons  are  woven  with  the  satin  weave,  and  often  in 
table  linen  or  damask  we  see  the  smooth  satin  weave. 
Here  is  a  bit  of  damask  table  linen.  Let  us  compare 
this  smooth  part  with  the  satin. 

Satins  are  used  for  dresses,  linings,  trimmings,  boxes, 
and  for  many  other  purposes.  They  cost  #i  to  $20 


I24 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


per  yard,  if  very  beautiful,  and  are  woven  from  21 
to   54   inches  wide.     Satin   is   sometimes   made   of  a 

combination  of 
linen  or  cotton, 
with  the  silk.  It 
is  then  less  ex- 
pensive. The 
woof,  or  filling 
thread,  which 
gives  the  smooth 
finish  is  silk;  and 
it  is  that  which 
shows  in  the  fin- 
ished  cloth. 
This  piece  of 
silk,  which  looks 
figured  like  table 
linen,  only  it  is 
made  of  silk,  is 
called  a  brocaded 
satin.  This 
satin  is  used  for 
dresses  and 
trimmings,  and 
often  for  furniture  covering  and  for  hangings  in  beauti- 
ful rooms.  It  is  made  on  a  loom  called  a  Jacquard. 
Table  damask  is  made  on  the  same  kind  of  loom.  This 
wonderful  loom  (Fig.  73)  is  able  to  produce  very  beau- 
tiful patterns,  because  of  the  management  of  the 


Courtesy  of  Crompton  and  K 
FIG.  73.  —  The  Jacquard  loom.     Notice  the  cards  with 
punched  holes  above  it.     They  affect  the  pattern. 
Can  you  find  the  cloth  which  is  being  woven  ? 


MAKING  GIFTS  125 

perforated  cards  above  the  loom  which  affect  the 
pattern. 

The  soft  white  piece  is  china  silk.  Little  Alice  Allen 
had  a  dress  made  of  it  last  summer.  It  is  a  plain  weave, 
and  many  of  such  silks  are  still  woven  by  hand  in  China. 
It  is  very  durable  and  is  used  for  dresses,  waists,  and 
underwear.  It  costs  $i  for  a  fairly  good  quality, 
and  is  woven  24  inches  wide 

This  piece  of  silk,  also,  originated  in  China.  It  is  called 
pongee.  Mary  Jones  had  a  coat  of  this  last  year.  It  is 
ecru  in  color  and  is  soft.  The  real  Chinese  pongee  is 
hand-woven  and  is  made  from  the  silk  of  wild  silk- 
worms. It  is  woven  27  inches  wide  and  costs  $i 
per  yard  up.  This  piece  was  $1.50  per  yard. 

This  is  a  queer-looking  piece.  It  is  marked  in  a 
watery  pattern.  The  silk  has  been  pressed  between  hot 
rollers  which,  are  stamped  with  a  pattern  to  give  that 
effect.  It  is  called  moire  silk,  and  is  used  for  trimmings 
and  dresses.  It  is  quite  expensive.  A  good  piece  will 
cost  at  least  $2  per  yard  and  is  22  inches  in  width. 

We  shall  learn  about  two  more  of  the  most  common 
silk  materials.  One  is  thick,  and  the  other  is  thin.  The 
thin  piece  is  called  chiffon.  Who  has  ever  seen  it  used  ? 
Yes,  for  veils.  It  is  used  for  dresses,  too,  and  for  hats 
and  trimmings.  Isn't  it  light  and  thin  and  gauzy  ?  It 
is  made  in  plain  colors  generally ;  sometimes  figured. 
It  is  46  inches  wide  and  costs  from  $.75  to  $2  per  yard. 

Yes,  every  one  knows  this  one  !  It  is  called  velvet. 
This  piece  is  all  silk,  and  was  a  part  of  Marjorie's 


126  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

great-grandmother's  dress.  Some  velvets  are  made  of 
linen  and  silk,  or  of  cotton  and  silk.  All  silk  velvet  is 
very  expensive.  It  often  costs  $10  a  yard  and  more. 
Some  silk  velvet  can  be  bought  for  $4  or  $5  a  yard. 
It  is  woven  from  18  1042  inches  wide.  Isn't  it  thick  ? 
Do  you  notice  the  tiny  ends  standing  up  ?  It  is  woven 
just  like  some  carpet,  and  the  thickness  is  called  the 
pile.  In  weaving,  little  loops  of  the  filling  thread  are 
made,  and  after  weaving,  these  are  cut  to  form  the  pile. 
Such  weaving  looks  very  difficult.  The  warp  is  some- 
times linen  or  cotton.  This  other  thick  piece  with  a 
pile  is  called  plush.  It  has  a  longer  pile  than  velvet. 
There  are  also  cotton  plushes.  Did  your  mother 
ever  have  a  winter  coat  of  plush  ?  Mrs.  Alden  had  one 
which  lasted  for  years. 

Let  us  mount  our  silk  samples.  Another  day  we 
shall  study  how  they  are  woven  from  the  raw  silk. 
Isn't  it  interesting  to  feel  acquainted  with  this  new 
family  of  materials  ?  Notice  before  next  lesson  how 
.many  things  you  see  which  are  made  of  silk.  Have 
you  any  in  your  schoolroom  ? 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

I..  Bring  to  school  all  the  samples  of  different  kinds  of  silks 
which  you  can  collect.  Can  you  tell  their  names  ? 

2.  Name  an  expensive  silk  suitable  for  a  dress,  and  give  its 
approximate  cost.     Name  an  inexpensive  silk  suitable  for  a  sum- 
mer dress;   give  its  approximate  cost. 

3.  What  is  plush  used  for  ?     What  is  chiffon  made  of? 

4.  Start  a  book  of  silk  samples. 


MAKING  GIFTS  127 

LESSON  4 

MORE  USEFUL  GIFTS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM 

Two  more  useful  gifts  :     a  workbag  of  silk,  and  a  sewing  apron. 
Which  will  you  chose  to  make  ? 

The  workbag.  Barbara  Oakes  has  a  very  com- 
plete little  workbag  (Fig.  74)  which  grandmother  made 
for  her  last  Christmas.  The  girls 
think  they  would  like  to  copy  it. 


FIG.  74.  —  Ay  a  very  useful  bag.     B,  the  sewing  apron. 

It  is  made  of  a  piece  of  yellow  flowered  ribbon  which 
was  8  inches  wide ;  \  a  yard  is  enough.  If  you  have 
scraps  of  silk,  use  a  strip  8  inches  wide  X  14  inches 
long.  With  the  other  4  inches,  if  ribbon  is  used,  the  cir- 
cular disks  for  the  bottom  are  to  be  covered.  To  make  : 

1.  Cut  two  circles  of  cardboard  3  inches  in  diameter.       Cut 
the  silk  for  covering  four  inches  in  diameter.     Cover  in  the  same 
way  as  you  covered  the  pin  disk.     This  is  the  bottom  of  the  bag. 

2.  Seam  the  two  ends  of  the  14  inch  strip  together  with  two 
runs   and   backstitch    (see   page  35).      Open   seams   flat.      Turn 
along  one  long  edge,  \  inch  if  selvedge  of  ribbon  ;  if  silk,  make  two 
turns :   first  \  inch,  second  \  inch.     Baste  and  hold  with  feather- 
stitch (see  page  126),  or  cross-stitch  (see  page  145)     At  seam  of  bag 


128  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

open  seam  carefully  \  inch  on  the  right  side  for  casing  hole  for 
ribbon.  At  the  opposite  side,  work  a  small  buttonhole  (see  page 
43)  f  inch  in  length.  This  will  be  the  top  of  the  bag;  and  the 
two  ribbons  are  to  be  run  through  the  casing  so  it  will  draw  up. 

3.  At  the  other  edge  of  the  long  strip,  fold  to  the  wrong  side : 
first  2  inches  of  the  strip,  and  then  the  2  inches  folded  over  it- 
self.    Baste  carefully.     This  fold  is  to  form  pockets  on  the  inside 
of  the  bag.     Every  two  inches  along  length  of  strip,  mark  with  a 
pin ;   and  on  the  right  side  of  bag,  featherstitch  or  cross-stitch  in 
rows  two  inches  deep,  to  form  pockets  on  the  inside  of  the  strip. 

4.  Gather  the  edge  of  the  strip  to  be  sewed  to  the  covered  disks. 
Divide  gathers  in  half.     Pin  to  disk.     Overhand  to  disk  with  close 
stitches  on  the  inside  of  bag. 

This  workbag  makes  a  very  useful  gift.  It  can  be 
filled  with  a  pair  of  small  scissors,  emery,  needles,  and 
spools  of  silk  placed  in  the  pockets.  The  ribbon  for  draw- 
ing top  is  in  two  pieces,  \  yard  in  each.  Start  one  piece 
from  one  side  and  run  around  casing  until  it  comes 
out  at  the  same  place  it  started.  Tie  in  bow.  Start 
other  ribbon  at  opposite  side,  and  run  it  all  around 
casing,  until  it  returns  to  the  same  side  it  started 
from.  Tie  in  bow. 

The  sewing  apron.  —  Another  useful  gift  is  a  small 
sewing  apron  (Fig.  74).  It  can  be  made  of  silk  or  of 
dimity  at  I2j  cents  a  yard,  and  need  not  then  cost 
more  than  15  cents.  Dimity  is  one  yard  wide;  and 
J  of  a  yard  is  enough.  To  make  : 

i.  From  one  selvedge  cut  a  strip  ^\  inches  wide,  lengthwise  of 
the  piece.  This  is  for  the  band  and  is  cut  off  before  the  apron  is 
made.  Remove  other  selvedge. 


MAKING  GIFTS 


129 


2.  Turn  f  inch  hem  to  right  side  of  apron  at  the  lengthwise 
edges  of  cloth  ;   baste  carefully. 

3.  At  one  cross  wise  end  turn,  hem  i\  inches  wide  to  right  side. 
Baste  and  hem  with  featherstitching  on  the  reverse  or  wrong  side. 


FIG.  75.  —  Four  useful  aprons. 

4.  Turn  up  at  bottom  8  inches  to  form  pocket,  so  featherstitch- 
ing  will  be  on  the  upper  or  right  side.     Baste  and  overhand  edges 
the  depth  of  pocket. 

5.  Featherstitch  side  hems,  catching  the  pocket  to  hold  securely. 

6.  Divide  large  pocket  in  three  by  making  two  rows  of  feather- 
stitching  like  picture. 


130 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


7.  Put  on  band.     Divide  gathered  top  of  apron.     Divide  band. 
Allow  band  to  extend  each  side  of  gathers.     A  space  of  12  inches 
in  center  of  band  is  enough  to  contain  the  gathers.     Put  on  as  you 
put  on  the  band  of  petticoat,  but  overhand  edges  of  the  band 
extending  beyond  gathers. 

8.  A  buttonhole  and  button  can  be  used  to  finish,  or  ribbon  may 
be  sewed  to  ends  of  band.     This  makes  a  very  useful  gift. 


FIG.  76. — Two    cases    on    which    the    featherstitch    can    be    used.      A,    needle 
case  and  bag.     £,  linen  traveling  case  for  overshoes. 

Look  at  the  sketches  (Fig.  75)  of  other  aprons : 
A  is  made  from  a  square  of  figured  lawn ;   ^  yard 
is  enough.     It  is  shaped  at  one  corner  for  a  bib.     A 
hem  is  turned  at  the  edge  and  featherstitched.     A  few 
small  tucks  make  it  fit  the  waist,  and  ribbon  trims  it. 


MAKING  GIFTS  131 

B  is  made  from  f  of  a  yard  of  lawn,  as  shown  in  the 
diagram.  Place  pattern  economically. 

C  is  made  of  a  width  of  lawn  or  silk  with  a  hem  at 
the  bottom  and  casing  at  the  top. 

D  is  made  of  glass  toweling  trimmed  with  finishing 
braid  and  featherstitching. 

Figure  76  shows  some  useful  cases  with  decorations 
of  featherstitch. 

EXERCISES   AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Plan  a  gift  and  surprise  mother  at  her  birthday  anniversary. 
Your  teacher  will  help  you. 

2.  See  if  you  can  plan  an  original  gift.     Draw  a  sketch  of  it. 

3.  Bring  all  the  suggestions  for  gifts  you  can  find  in  clippings 
from  old  magazines. 

LESSON  5 

COUSIN  ANN  TELLS  HOW  SILK  IS  MADE  INTO  CLOTH 

Last  summer  Marjorie  Allen's  Cousin  Ann  visited  her.  She  lives 
at  Paterson,  New  Jersey,  where  there  are  many  silk  mills.  She 
told  the  girls  of  the  Sewing  League  about  the  way  silk  is  made  into 
cloth.  Shall  we  too  learn  how  ? 

Where  is  silk  manufactured  ?  We  know  that  very 
little  silk  is  grown  in  the  United  States ;  but  we  also 
know  that  our  country  leads  in  the  manufacture  of 
silks  and  uses  more  raw  silk  than  any  other  country 
in  the  world.  France  is  next  and  produces  very  beauti- 
ful materials.  Most  of  our  silk  factories  are  in  the 
East :  in  New  Jersey,  Connecticut,  New  York,  and 
Pennsylvania.  People  have  tried  to  raise  silkworms 


132 


CLOTHING  AND-  HEALTH 


here.  In  1624  some  Frenchmen  living  in  Virginia 
tried,  but  were  not  very  successful.  Such  experiments 
have  usually  failed  because  it  costs  so  much  for  labor. 
In  1747  the  governor  of  Connecticut  wore  a  coat  and 
stockings  made  of  silk  produced  on  his  place.  We  use 
about  85  per  cent  of  the  silk  manufactured  here.  What 
per  cent  is,  then,  exported?  In  1876,  at  the  great 

Centennial  Exhibition  in 
Philadelphia,  Marjorie's 
grandmother  saw  wonder- 
ful exhibits  of  silk  woven 
in  many  colors,  and  even 
beautiful  woven  pictures 
of  silk.  Has  any  one  ever 
seen  a  woven  picture  of 
silk  ?  Have  you  ever  seen 
one  tiny  fiber  of  silk  as 
it  looks  under  the  micro- 
scope ?  What  do  you 
notice  ? 

This  is  what  Marjorie's  cousin  from  Paterson  told 
the  girls.  They  went  to  one  room  at  the  mill  where 
there  were  great  bales  of  silk,  weighing  about  100  or 
150  pounds,  but  not  quite  so  heavy  or  large  as  a  bale 
of  cotton.  When  opened  there  were  many  hanks  in 
each  bale  ;  tied  up,  five  or  ten  in  a  bundle.  These 
hanks  were  taken  first  to  a  man  called  a  throwster. 
Silk  throwing  means  soaking  the  skeins  to  remove  more 
of  the  gum,  and  winding  the  silk  from  the  skein  to  a 


Ftc.  77.  —  Silk  fibers  magnified. 


MAKING  GIFTS 


133 


spool.  This  is  done  by  soaking  in  warm  water,  drying, 
and  then  placing  the  silk  on  swifts,  or  reels.  Have  you 
ever  seen  a  reel  for  winding  ?  (See  Fig.  78.)  It 
holds  the  skein  of  silk.  The  ends  are  taken,  and  the 
machine  unwinds  from  the  skein  and  winds  the  silk  on 
spools.  In  one  skein  there  are  from  75, coo  to  200,000 
yards  of  silk.  The  spools  are  then  placed  in  a  machine 
which  cleans  and  twists  two  of  these  spool  threads  to- 
gether to  form  one,  and 
then  winds  it  off  on  new 
spools.  This  twisted  silk 
is  called  "organzine." 
Isn't  that  a  queer  name  ? 
It  means  the  thread  used 
in  a  loom  for  the  warp  or 
strong  threads.  Why  are 
twisted  threads  stronger  ? 
Try,  and  see  if  they  are. 

Silk  is  a  most  perfect 
fiber ;  and  does  not  have 
to  be  prepared  as  much  as  cotton  or  wool.  Sometimes 
it  is  twisted  a  very  little  for  the  warp.  The  filling 
thread  has  a  queer  name,  too.  It  is  called  the  "  tram," 
and  need  not  be  of  so  good  a  quality  of  silk  as  the  strong 
warp,  nor  so  tightly  twisted.  Cotton  spinning  is  dif- 
ferent from  silk  throwing ;  but  both  mean  getting  the 
fibers  ready  for  weaving. 

There   are   many  beautiful   colored   silks.       Silk  is 
usually  dyed  (Fig.  79)  in  the  yarn  in  hanks.     The  poor 


FIG. 


Courtesy  of  Cheney  Bros 
78.  —  Silk  winding. 


134 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


qualities,  however,  are  dyed  after  the  silk  is  woven  into 
the  piece.  Silk  is  dyed  by  dipping  the  skeins  or  yards 
of  silk  in  great  vats  of  dye.  For  dyeing,  the  coal-tar 
products  (aniline  dyes)  are  used.  Did  you  know  that 
coal  could  produce  such  beautiful  colors  ?  That  is 


FIG.  79.  —  Silk  dyeing. 


Courtesy  of  Ghent]/  Bros 


a  long  story  of  the  many  wonderful  things  which  can  be 
made  from  tar.  Do  you  know  that  25  per  cent  of  the 
weight  of  the  raw  silk  is  made  up  of  the  gummy  sub- 
stance ?  The  dyer  boils  out  some  of  the  gum  ;  and,  if  he 
wishes  to  produce  cheap  silks  and  make  much  money, 


MAKING  GIFTS 


135 


he  makes  up  for  the  weight  of  gum  boiled  out,  by 
using  tin.  The  silk  is  dipped  in  bichloride  of  tin  or 
other  substances ;  and  it  takes  up,  or  absorbs,  until 
sometimes  it  weighs  twice  or  even  four  times  as  much 
as  the  boiled-off  silks.  This  tin  is  bought  for  silk. 
Women  who  do  not  know  think  they  are  buying 
heavy  silk  and  are  getting  a  good  quality  because  it  is 
so  heavy.  This  solution  of  tin  rots  the  silk,  and,  when 
the  silk  comes  in  contact 
with  light  and  air,  it 
crumbles  away.  Perhaps 
you  have  at  home  a  sam- 
ple of  silk  which  has  done 
this.  Marjorie's  Cousin 
Ann  saw  some  petticoats 
of  silk  which  went  to 
pieces  just  hanging  in  a 
closet.  Sometimes  that 
happens  when  store  keep- 
ers keep  the  petticoats  for 
some  time.  One  can  see  the  holes  by  holding  the  silk 
up  to  the  light.  In  order  to  know  what  one  is  buying 
one  must  study  about  materials  and  about  how  they 
are  made. 

Have  you  ever  seen  a  picture  of  silk  being  dyed  in 
the  skein  ?  Marjorie's  cousin  says  it  is  done  by  ma- 
chinery. See  how  many  skeins  are  on  the  big  wheel, 
or  drum  as  it  is  called.  As  it  turns,  the  skeins  are 
dipped  in  the  vat  of  dye. 


Courtesy  of  Cheney  Bros. 


FIG.   80.  —  Warping  or  preparing  silk 
for  the  loom. 


136  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

After  the  warp  threads  are  twisted  and  wound  on 
spools,  the  workman  places  the  spools  in  racks  (see 
Fig.  80).  They  are  then  unwound  again  on  to  a  very 
large  roller,  as  you  can  see  in  the  picture.  The  large 


FIG.  81.  —  Silk  weaving  on  a  hand  loom  in  Japan. 

roller  is  then  put  into  the  back  of  the  loom,  and  the 
warp  threads  are  drawn  through  and  prepared  so  they 
are  attached  to  the  roller  where  the  cloth  is  to  be  rolled 
after  it  is  woven.  Do  you  remember  how  we  found 
the  cloth  and  the  warp  rollers  when  we  were  studying 


MAKING  GIFTS  137 

about  how  cotton  cloth  is  made  ?  For  plain  silks  a 
loom  is  used  very  much  like  the  looms  for  weaving 
cotton  cloth  (see  page  69)  ;  but,  for  fancy  silks  and 
beautiful  patterns  and  designs,  the  Jacquard  loom 
like  the  picture  (see  page  1,24)  is  necessary.  This 
wonderful  machine  was  invented  by  a  Frenchman, 
Joseph  Marie  Jacquard,  in  1801.  The  cards  are 
cut  in  tiny  holes  which  regulate  the  pattern  and  make 
beautiful  designs.  The  cards  control  the  warp  threads 
and  regulate  which  threads  are  to  be  up  and  which 
down,  as  the  shuttle  passes  over  and  under.  The 
shuttle  is  lined  with  soft  seal  skin  to  protect  the  silk 
fibers  of  the  filling  thread  on  the  bobbin  as  they 
unroll. 

Would  you  too  not  like  to  visit  a  silk  factory  ? 
Perhaps  come  day  you  may  be  able  to  go  to  Paterson 
|or  to  some  large  city,  and  may  see  all  the  wonderful 
things  which  Marjorie's  cousin  saw.  The  book  pictures 
will  give  you  a  good  idea  of  how  a  mill  or  factory  looks 
inside.  It  is  a  very  busy  place.  Perhaps  your  teacher 
may  be  able  to  get  some  stereopticon  or  motion  picture 
views  to  show  you,  as  Miss  James  showed  the  Pleasant 
Valley  children.  She  used  the  church  lantern.  Some 
of  the  mothers  and  fathers  came,  too,  to  hear  the  story 
about  silk. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Find  on  your  map  the  most  important  city  in  the  United 
States  for  the  manufacture  of  silk. 

2.  Write  a  story  about  the  silk  "throwing." 


138  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

3.  If  there  is  a  silk  mill  in  your  neighborhood,  plan  to  visit  it 
with  your  teacher. 

4.  Look  up  the  story  of  Jacquard,  the  inventor  of  the  loom 
devices  for  making  beautiful  patterns. 


LESSON  6 

THE  BLANKET  STITCH  CAN  BE  USED  IN  MANY  WAYS 

Did  you  ever  hear  of  a  stitch  called  the  blanket  stitch  ?  It  is 
very  useful  for  decoration.  We  can  make  some  attractive  gifts 
if  we  know  how  to  make  it.  Would  you  like  to  try  to-day  ? 

Did  you  ever  notice  how  pretty  some  verandas  look 
in  summer  time  ?  Mrs  Stark  of  Pleasant  Valley 


FIG.  82.  —  The  blanket  stitch. 


has  a  very  attractive,  cosy  porch.  Yours  can  look 
pretty,  too,  if  you  will  give  thought  and  a  little  time 
to  it.  You  can  plant  some  pretty  vines  as  the  girls 
did  at  the  Ellen  H.  Richards  house.  The  cucumber 


MAKING  GIFTS  139 

grows  wild  and  can  be  transplanted.  Perhaps  in 
the  attic  you  can  find  an  old  table,  which  will  do  to 
hold  your  sewing  things.  Can  you  make  a  cover  for 
it  ?  Perhaps  you  can  make  a  porch  cushion,  too. 
The  blanket  stitch  (Fig.  82)  will  be  useful  for  both. 

Did  you  ever  see  a  material  called  Russian  crash  ? 
It  is  made  in  Russia,  of  coarse  linen,  and  is  often  woven 
in  the  fields.  It  is  not  very  wide,  16  or  18  inches 
only.  It  is  light  brown  in  color.  If  you  cannot  get 
the  crash,  perhaps  you  have  some  grain  or  feed  bags 
which  will  do.  You  can  dip  them  in  coffee  to  stain 
them  light  brown,  as  Marjorie  Allen  did  when  she  made 
a  cover  for  the  porch  table.  A  piece  ij  yards  long 
and  from  16  to  20  inches  wide  will  make  a  good-sized 
table  runner  to  throw  over  the  old  table  on  the  porch. 
If  you  use  the  old  bags  and  the  edges  are  not  selvedges, 
turn  them  with  one  turning  \  inch  wide  all  around  the 
edges,  and  baste. 

How  can  you  finish  the  edge  of  a  table  runner  ? 
You  can  make  the  blanket  stitch  close  together  around 
the  edge.  A  heavy  mercerized  cotton  thread  can  be 
used  for  the  stitch,  and  will  look  well  if  it  is  brown  in 
color  to  harmonize  with  the  linen  or  bag.  The  blanket 
stitch  is  used  generally  for  blanket  edges  which  are 
not  hemmed.  It  is  a  stitch  to  prevent  material  from 
fraying,  and  is  taken  on  the  edge  of  material.  When 
the  cloth  is  not  very  heavy,  one  turning  can  be  made 
to  give  firmness  to  the  edge.  This  is  not  necessary  on 
blankets  or  on  heavy  materials.  The  stitch  is  worked 


140  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 

from  left  to  right.  The  edge  of  the  cloth  is  held  to- 
wards the  worker.  Start  with  a  few  running  stitches 
and  bring  the  needle  up  near  the  edge.  Have  the 
thread  under  the  thumb.  Insert  the  needle  any  depth 
desired  and  point  needle  at  right  angles  to  the  edge  of 
the  cloth,  towards  the  worker.  The  needle  should 
come  up  under  the  edge  and  through  the  loop  made  by 
the  thread.  The  thread  will  be  carried  along  the  edge 
as  the  stitches  are  made.  In  finishing  a  thread,  take 
small  tiny  stitches  on  the  wrong  side.  In  starting  a 
new  thread,  bring  it  up  through  the  last  loop  at  the 
edge.  On  some  materials  the  stitches  can  be  |  or  ^ 
of  an  inch  apart,  or  taken  very  close  together  as  we  do 
when  we  work  on  white  linen  and  scallop  the  edges. 
The  stitches  can  be  \  or  \  or  even  an  inch  deep,  and 
they  can  be  arranged  to  form  a  pattern.  In  the  pic- 
ture you  will  see  that  the  stitches  are  arranged  in 
blocks — -twelve  low  ones  \  of  an  inch,  and  12  of  f 
of  an  inch.  They  can  also  be  arranged  to  form  stairs 
ascending  and  descending  with  a  difference  of  J  of 
an  inch  in  the  depth  of  each  stitch.  Suppose  you  plan 
to  make  the  block  pattern  of  the  blanket  stitch  all 
around  the  edge  of  the  table  runner. 

Now,  can  you  make  a  porch  cushion  ?  The  porch 
cushion  (Fig.  83)  can  be  made  of  a  strip  of  crash  or  of  a 
piece  of  bagging,  i  yard  long  and  16  inches  wide. 
Hem  one  end  with  a  i  inch  hem  and  the  other  with  a  \ 
inch  hem,  turning  both  to  wrong  side.  Fold  so  that 
the  i  inch  hem  overlaps  the  \  inch  hem.  Pin  care- 


MAKING  GIFTS 


141 


fully.  This  makes  a  kind  of  envelope  and  it  can  be 
filled  later  with  a  cushion  of  bran  or  excelsior  or  feathers. 
Fold  so  that  the  overlapping  of  hems  comes  about  4 
inches  from  one  end  of  the  cushion.  After  folding  and 
pinning,  baste  carefully  through  the  two  thicknesses 
of  material.  Work  the  blanket  stitch  all  around  four 
sides  with  the  heavy  brown  linen  or  cotton  thread. 
Use  the  same  block  pat- 
tern as  for  the  table 
cover.  The  cushion  is 
kept  closed  with  three  or 
four  snaps  sewed  on  the 
hems.  These  cushions 
can  be  made  any  size  for 
hammock  or  for  porch 
use.  Mrs.  Stark  liked 
Mollie's  so  well  that  she 
made  a  whole  set  for  her  porch,  and  used  old  bags 
for  this  purpose. 

Can  you  think  of  any  pretty  articles  to  make  for  the 
fair  or  for  surprise  gifts  on  which  the  blanket  stitch 
can  be  used  ?  Have  you  ever  scalloped  the  edges 
of  doilies  with  plain  scallop  ?  The  white  linen  can  be 
cut  in  circles  to  fit  the  size  of  the  plates  and  the  edge 
marked  in  scallops  by  using  a  spool.  The  stitch  is 
exactly  the  same,  but  the  stitches  are  taken  very  close 
together  and  cover  the  two  lines  of  the  marked  scallop 
which  indicate  the  depth.  Doilies  are  very  useful 
instead  of  a  tablecloth.  They  are  easily  laundered 


FIG.  83.  —  The  porch  cushion,  showing 
the  blanket  stitch  in  block  pattern,  and 
the  opening  near  one  end. 


i42  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

and  save  the  heavy  washing.  A  bare  wooden  table 
which  is  kept  clean  and  oiled  is  very  attractive  when 
set  with  doilies.  (See  Food  and  Health,  page  73). 
Can  you  make  a  set  sometime  as  a  surprise  for 
mother's  Christmas  gift  ? 


FIG.  84.  —  Blanket  stitch  made  close  together  for  a  scalloped  edge. 

Pincushion  tops,  bureau  covers,  table  covers,  tray 
covers,  centerpieces,  can  all  be  made  with  this  useful 
stitch. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Draw  a  picture  on  the  blackboard  of  the  blanket  stitch. 

2.  Bring  to  school  some  article  on  which  the  blanket  stitch  is 
used  in  some  way.     Have  an  exhibit  of  all  the  articles  brought. 

LESSON  7 

LEARNING   TO    MAKE   THE    CROSS-STITCH 

Did  your  grandmother  ever  tell  you  how  she  learned  to  sew 
when  she  was  a  girl  ?  Have  you  seen  her  sewing  sampler  ?  Shall 
we  learn  the  stitch  she  used  on  her  sampler  ? 


MAKING  GIFTS  143 

Before  the  days  of  sewing  machines,  the  family 
sewing  was  all  done  at  home  and  by  hand.  To-day  we 
have  factories  and  shops,  and  we  can  buy  many  articles 
of  clothing  ready-made.  All  little  girls  were  taught 
to  sew  at  home  in  those  days.  Sewing  was  not  gener- 
ally taught  at  school.  Many  long  seams  were  given  to 


Courtesy  of  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art. 


FIG.  85.  —  Two  samplers  of  long  ago. 

the  girls  to  sew.  The  girls  had  much  practice  and 
learned  to  sew  very  well.  Every  little  girl  was  supposed 
to  make  a  sampler.  The  picture  shows  two  samplers 
(Fig.  85).  Barbara  Oakes  has  two  samplers  which  she 
values  very  much  because  her  great-grandmother  and 
grandmother  made  them.  Perhaps  you  may  have  one 
which  your  grandmother  made.  The  stitch  used  for 


144 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


the  samplers  was  usually  the  cross-stitch  (Fig.  87). 
Would  you  like  to  learn  to  make  it,  too  ?  It  is  a 
decorative  stitch  and  is  often  used  for  marking  linen. 
Grandmother  and  great-grandmother  used  to  mark 
their  sheets,  pillowcases,  and  other  household  linens 
with  tiny  initials  of  cross-stitch.  It  is  possible,  also, 
to  make  quaint  designs  of  the  same  stitch.  Perhaps 
you  would  like  to  learn  to  make  such  a  pattern.  It  is 


FIG.  86.  —  Cross-stitch  designs  can  be  easily  made  on  squared  paper.     A,  initialr* 
for  towel ;  B,  design  for  repetition  on  table  cover  or  scarf. 

necessary  to  have  squared  paper  and  to  make  the 
crosses  conform  to  the  figures  or  initials  wished.  The 
picture  (Fig.  86)  shows  how  to  make  the  crosses  fit 
the  squares. 

Will  you  try  to  make  a  design  for  the  cross-stitch  ? 
As  the  design  is  made  on  the  squares,  it  is  necessary 
to  use  squared  canvas  called  Penelope  canvas  in  work- 
ing this  cross-stitch.  The  canvas  is  basted  in  place 
and  the  stitches  made  over  the  squares  of  the  canvas, 
following  the  design  of  the  pattern.  There  are  some 


MAKING  GIFTS 


coarse  materials  which  can  be  followed  without  using 
canvas.  The  canvas  is  woven  so  loosely  that  after  the 
cross-stitch  design  is  finished,  the  threads  are  drawn  out. 
How  to  make  the  stitch  : 

Baste  the  canvas  carefully  so  that  the  warp  of  the 
canvas  lies  on  the  warp  of  the  cloth.  The  canvas 
comes  in  several  sizes,  some  finer  than  others,  and  this 
makes  a  difference  in  the  size  of  the  design  when 
finished.  The  stitch  consists  of  two  slanting  lines 
crossed.  On  the  wrong 
side  all  the  stitches  may  1  I  I  J  VI 

be  either  vertical  or  hori- 
zontal, but  should  be  one 
or  the  other.  Do  you 
know  the  difference  ? 
The  canvas  is  so  woven 
that  one  makes  the  cross 


KIG.  87. — The  cross-stitch. 


over  two  threads  high  and  two  wide.  Bring  needle  up  to 
right  side  at  lower  left  corner  of  the  square  that  the  stitch 
would  form  if  inclosed  (Fig.  87).  Pass  thread  slanting 
across  warp  threads,  and  take  stitch  on  line  with  warp, 
pointing  needle  towards  the  worker.  When  thread  is 
drawn  through,  a  slanting  line  of  half  the  cross  is  made. 
This  can  be  repeated  across  a  whole  row  according  to 
design,  and  the  cross  finished  by  returning  from  right 
to  left  with  the  same  vertical  stitches.  It  is  necessary 
to  have  all  the  stitches  of  the  design  crossing  one  way : 
the  ground  stitches,  or  first  half,  one  way ;  the  other 
half,  or  upper  stitches,  all  the  other. 


146  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

What  pretty  gifts  can  be  made  from  the  cross- 
stitch  ?  Towels  hemstitched  across  the  ends  and 
marked  with  cross-stitch  make  attractive  gifts  for 
mother  or  grandmother.  A  pretty  set  for  a  baby  is 
made  by  marking  bath  towel,  face  towel,  and  wash 
cloths  with  a  pretty  wreath  design  with  baby's  initial. 

Bureau  covers,  table 
scarfs,  pincushions  can  be 
made.  Here  is  a  picture 
(Fig.  88)  of  a  simple  hand 
towel  with  cross-stitch 
initials.  The  towel  is 
made  of  huckaback,  all 
linen.  You  remember  it 
can  be  bought  in  all  cot- 
ton, too,  or  a  combina- 
tion. Which  is  more 
expensive  ?  The  width 
varies.  The  picture  shows 
a  small  guest  towel  18 


to  learn  to  hemstitch 
linen.  Shall  we  try  next  lesson  ?  The  picture  (Fig. 
88)  shows  fancy  hemstitching  and  drawn  work.  We 
shall  learn  the  plain  hemstitching. 


EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 


i.  If  any  one  in  your  town  has  an  old  sampler,  try  to  get  it  for 
a  loan  exhibit,  while  the  girls  are  making  their  cross-stitching. 


MAKING  GIFTS  147 

2.  Make  a  design  for  cross-stitch  work  suitable  for  an  end  of 
a  towel  or  for  any  article  you  wish. 


LESSON  8 
HOW  TO  MAKE  THE  HEMSTITCH 

Do  you  know  that  some  girls  are  often  confused  and  call  the 
hemstitch,  the  hemming  stitch  ?  Barbara  Oakes  used  to,  but  under- 
stands now.  You  have  learned  the  hemming  stitch ;  now  you  will 
try  the  hemstitch. 

See  if  you  can  discover  the  difference  between  the 
hemming  stitch  and  the  hemstitch  ?  Both  are  used 
at  the  top  of  the  hem  to  hold  it  in  place,  but  often  the 
hemstitch  is  used  in  other  places,  too.  It  is  necessary 
to  draw  out  some  threads  of  the  cloth  or  linen,  before 
the  stitch  can  be  made.  For  the  hemstitched  towel, 
measure  for  your  hem.  From  the  raw  edge,  it  will 
be  twice  the  width  of  the  finished  hem  plus  one  turn- 
ing of  I  inch.  How  much,  then,  will  you  measure 
for  a  hem  one  inch  when  finished  ?  At  the  point 
measured,  place  a  pin.  Draw  out  three  or  four  of  the 
woof  threads  very  carefully.  Be  sure  to  pull  out  the 
whole  thread  all  the  way  across,  when  it  breaks. 
Remember  how  the  filling  thread  passes  at  the  sel- 
vedge, and  remove  it  there  as  it  turns.  Then  baste  the 
hem  very  carefully,  turning  to  wrong  side.  Baste  close 
to  first  drawn  thread.  Hold  work  over  fingers  of  left 
hand  in  vertical  position.  Place  needle  in  edge  of 
hem,  and  draw  thread  without  a  knot  under  the  edge  of 


148 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


hem  just  exactly  as  plain  hemming  is  started  (Fig.  89). 
Throw  thread  away  from  the  worker  ;  take  up  a  bundle 
of  the  threads  by  passing  the  needle  under  them  and 
pointing  it  towards  the  worker  along  the  edge  of  the 
hem.  Again  pass  the  needle  under  the  same  bundle  of 

threads,  but  this  time 
pass  the  needle  through 
the  under  cloth  and  also 
through  the  edge  of  the 
turned  hem,  just  beyond 
the  bundle.  This  stitch 
should  come  between  two 
bundles  of  thread.  Make 
the  next  stitch  by  taking 
up  a  second  bundle  of 
threads.  At  first,  one 
should  count  the  num- 
ber of  threads  so  as  to 
have  the  bundles  uni- 
form ;  but  with  practice 
this  is  not  necessary.  As 
a  rule,  the  coarser  the 

FIG.  89. -The  hemstitch.  material,  the   fewer  the 

number  of  threads  taken 
up.  This  is  a  simple  way  of  hemstitching.  There  areother 
ways.  Double  hemstitching  means  to  hemstitch  the  other 
side  opposite  the  hem,  by  taking  up  the  same  bundles. 
Marjorie  Allen  made  Grandmother  Allen  a  lovely  hem- 
stitched towel  for  Christmas.  She  was  very  much 


MAKING  GIFTS  149 

surprised  and  delighted  to  have  some  of  Marjorie's  own 
work.  Marjorie  tied  it  up  very  daintily  in  white  tissue 
paper  and  used  some  Christmas  seals  to  hold  it  fast. 


>  EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Now  that  you  know  the  hemstitch,  you  can  use  it  in  many 
places.     Can  you  tell  how  it  differs  from  the  hemming  stitch  ? 

2.  Think  of  some  useful  things  on  which  this  stitch  can  be 
made  besides  those  mentioned  below  :  — 

Collars  Cuffs 

Bags  Covers 

Handkerchiefs  Doilies 

LESSON  9 
ANOTHER  USEFUL  GIFT  AND  A  NEW  STITCH 

Have  you  ever  noticed  how  convenient  it  is  to  have  a  place  for 
the  clothespins,  on  wash  day  ?  Would  you  like  to  learn  to  make 
a  clothespin  bag  ? 

How  to  make  another  gift.  A  very  useful  clothes- 
pin bag  (Fig.  90)  for  mother  can  be  easily  made  with 
a  hammock  hook  and  some  ticking.  Mrs.  Allen 
says  she  cannot  keep  house  without  hers.  Did  you 
learn  about  ticking  when  you  studied  cotton  materials  ? 
Pillow  covers  and  mattresses  are  made  of  it,  as  it  is 
heavy  and  strong  and  wears  very  well.  Put  a  piece 
in  your  cotton  sample  book.  It  is  woven  36  inches 
wide  and  costs  from  I2|  cents  up.  Notice  the  weave. 
It  is  twilled  or  striped  or  herringbone  weave. 


150 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


Denim  or  any  heavy  material  can  be  used.  A 
square  piece  is  necessary,  28  X  28  inches. 

Hem.  First  turning,  \  inch ;  second  turning,  one 
inch.  Stitch  on  machine.  Miter  the  corners.  The 
corners  are  to  be  sewed  securely  with  heavy  linen 
thread  to  the  four  corners  of  the  hammock  hook 
(Fig.  90).  The  hook  is  hung  on  the  clothesline,  and  it 

is  very  easy  and  handy  to 
push  along  as  the  clothes 
are  hung  up.  If  one  wishes, 
the  bag  can  be  decorated 
with  a  catch  stitch. 

How  to  make  the  catch 
stitch  or  herringbone  stitch. 
This  stitch  can  be  used  for 
decoration  or  for  catching 
the  edges  of  a  seam  or  hem. 
Grandmother  Allen  used  to 
use  it  on  her  own  flannel 
petticoats  and  on  baby 

FIG.  90.  -  The  clothespin  bag.  ^^  flannd  ^^     After 

the  plain  seam  is  made,  it  is  opened  flat  and  the  edges  are 
caught  with  the  loose  catch  stitch.  It  is  really  a  flannel 
stitch,  because,  as  the  flannel  may  shrink  a  little,  the 
stitch  allows  for  this,  and  holds  the  hem  flat.  Flannel 
hems  do  not  have  the  first  turning  as  it  is  so  thick. 
The  catch  stitch  is  then  used  to  hold  the  hem.  Can 
you  bring  one  of  baby's  petticoats  to  show  the  class 
how  it  looks  ? 


MAKING  GIFTS  151 

The  same  stitch  is  used  for  decoration  too.  We 
shall  use  it  for  that  purpose  on  the  clothespin  bag, 
before  we  sew  the  corners  to  the  hook. 

The  stitch  is  made  from  left  to  right.  We  can  use 
the  machine  stitching  for  a  guide.  We  shall  use  the 
stitch  on  the  right  side.  It  resembles  cross-stitch.  It  is 
really  a  series  of  back  stitches  placed  alternately  above 
and  below  the  guide  line.  The  spaces  between  stitches 


FIG.  91.  —  The  catch  stitch. 

should  be  the  same  and  the  stitches  below  the  guide 
line  opposite  the  spaces  above  (Fig.  91).  This  causes 
the  thread  to  slant  and  makes  the  cross,  as  it  is  worked 
from  left  to  right.  To  start,  draw  needle  to  right  side 
about  ^  inch  below  the  line  of  machine  stitch.  The 
first  back  stitch  is  taken  ^  inch  above  the  machine 
stitching.  This  will  make  the  slanting  line,  as  the 
stitch  is  I  inch  beyond  the  starting  place.  The 
second  stitch  is  taken  below  the  line ;  and  the  direc- 
tions as  above  are  followed  so  that  stitches  come 


1 52  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

opposite  the  spaces,  above  and  below.  In  finishing 
an  old  thread,  take  two  or  three  small  stitches  on 
wrong  side.  In  beginning  a  new  thread,  draw  up  as 
at  the  start,  so  as  to  form  the  correct  cross  on  the  right 
side. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  This  herringbone  or  catch  stitch  can  be  used  in  many  places. 
Can  you  suggest  any  ? 

2.  Draw  a  picture  of  this  stitch  on  the  blackboard 

3.  Show  some  neighbor  how  to  make  this  stitch. 

LESSON  10 

THE  DARNING  STITCH 

Did  you  know  that  sometimes  darning  is  used  for  decoration 
instead  of  just  on  the  stocking  ?     Let  us  make  a  gift  using  it. 

The  darning  stitch  is  nothing 
but  fine  running  stitches  placed 
alternately  under  one  another 
so  as  to  fill  a  space.  Miss 
James  has  asked  the  girls  to 
make  linen  covers  for  their  cook- 
ing notebooks.  They  decide 
to  put  their  two  initials  on  the 
cover  and  to  work  them  in  out- 
line stitch.  The  sketch  (Fig. 
92)  shows  how  they  will  make 
r  them  within  an  oblong  which 

r  10.92. —  I  he  darning  stitches      t  to 

make  the  initials  stand  out.         is  also  tO  be  Outlined.       The  dam- 


MAKING  GIFTS 


ing  stitch  will  be  used  as 
a  background  to  make  the 
initials  stand  out.  It  is 
a  fine  running  stitch.  Any 
design  can  be  made  to 
stand  out  by  arranging  the 
darning  back  of  the  out- 
lined design.  The  note- 
books will  be  covered  so 
that  the  covers  may  slip 
off.  This  is  done  by  over- 
handing  the  edges  and 
slipping  the  cover  of  the 
book  into  the  pocket 
formed  by  the  overhand- 
ing.  The  cover  is  all  in 
one:  a  straight  piece  folded 
back  inside  the  cover  of  book  and  overhanded  at  the 
folds,  to  hold  the  book.  The  picture  (Fig.  93)  of 
baby's  bib  also  shows  the  use  of  the  darning  stitch 
to  make  a  design  stand  out.  This  is  a  bib  used  by 
little  Alice  Allen.  Marjorie  made  it  for  her,  when  she 
was  two  years  old  and  had  a  birthday  party. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Make  a  design  for  your  notebook  cover. 

2.  Calculate  size  of  piece  of  material  needed,  if  both  covers  are 
9  X  6.     Allow  \  inch  turnings  all  around. 

3.  Try  to  plan  a  design  with  a  background  of  darning  stitches. 
Perhaps  you  can  use  it  on  a  Christmas  gift  for  brother. 


FIG.  93. — The  darning  stitch  makes  the 
design  of  the  rabbits  stand  out. 


154  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


REVIEW    PROBLEMS 

I.  Plan  a  gift  for  father's  Christmas  on  which  the   darning  or 
cross-stitch  is  used. 

II.  Look  up  the  story  of  the  history  of  silk  culture  and  write  a 
story  to  be  read  in  school.     Perhaps  it  may  be  as  good  as  the  one 
Bartara  Oakes  wrote.     Her  story  was  printed  in  the  "  Pleasant 
Valley  News." 


CHAPTER   IV 

THE  PLEASANT  VALLEY  GIRLS  LEARN  TO  CARE 
FOR  THEIR  CLOTHES  AND  TO  HELP  REPAIR  THE 
HOUSEHOLD  LINEN. 

Have  you  ever  noticed  that  some  houses  where  you 
visit  are  always  neat  and  look  well  cared  for,  and  that 
the  towels  and  table  linen  are  carefully  darned  or 
patched  ?  Have  you  seen  what  a  difference  there  is  in 
the  appearance  of  the  people  who  do  not  care  for  their 
houses  and  clothing,  and  those  who  do  ?  The  latter 
are  apt  to  wear  neat-looking  shirt  waists,  to  patch  the 
worn  places  and  darn  the  holes  before  they  are  too  large, 
and  to  sew  on  the  buttons  before  they  are  lost.  The 
little  word  C-A-R-E  is  reponsible  for  the  difference. 
Have  you  learned  to  help  at  home  to  repair  and  care 
for  the  clothing  and  household  linens  ?  "  A  stitch  in 
time  saves  nine."  It  often  saves  money  and  time,  too. 
Do  you  know  why  ?  Learn  how.  The  Pleasant  Valley 
girls  learned  to  darn  and  patch  and  occasionally  Miss 
James  had  a  "  repair  day,"  when  all  were  permitted  to 
bring  their  mending.  Can  you  do  this  at  your  school  ? 


i56 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


LESSON  i 

CARE    OF    CLOTHES 

What  are  some  of  the  things  to  learn  in  order  to  care  for  one's 
clothes  ? 

Marjorie  Allen's  Cousin  Ann,  who  lives  at  Paterson, 
New  Jersey,  spends  her  summer  vacation  with  Marjorie 
at  Pleasant  Valley.  Marjorie  knows 
that  she  earns  ten  dollars  a  week  at 
the  office  and  pays  all  her  own  ex- 
penses. She  always  looks  very  neat 
and  well  dressed.  What  is  the  secret  ? 
She  has  learned  how  to  spend  wisely 
and  how  to  care  for  her  clothing. 
She  learned  much  of  this  at  school, 
and  experience  has  taught  her  how 
to  manage.  Suppose  we  learn,  too, 
so  as  to  be  able  to  care  for  our 
clothes.  Here  are  some  of  the  things 
Marjorie's  cousin  learned : 


FIG  94  —  Ethel  Allen  re-       '*•  That    clothes,    if  well    brushed,   look 
members  about  the  les-    better, 
son  on  neatness.     She  is 
removing  a  spot. 


2.  A  well-pressed  suit  or  skirt  lasts  longer 
and  looks  neater. 

3.  Stains  or  spots  spoil  one's  neat  appearance  and  look  careless. 

4.  A  patch  or  a  darn  is  no  disgrace.     They  make  one  feel  more 
self-respecting  than  holes  or  tears.     They  help  to  increase  the  life 
of  a  garment,  too,  if  taken  in  time. 

5.  That  being  careful  each  day  saves  much  time;   a  little  care 
is  worth  while. 


CARING   FOR  CLOTHES  157 

Let  us  study  today  how  to  do  some  of  these  things. 
Perhaps  we  can  clean  our  school  coats  or  some  wool 
garments  brought  from  home. 

Brushing  clothes.  Many  people  who  live  in  large 
cities  do  not  have  gardens  and  yards  where  they  can 
hang  their  clothes  and  brush  them.  Often  brushing 
and  cleaning  must  be  done  on  the  roofs  of  houses.  How 
glad  we  should  be  for  space  and  a  chance  to  keep  clean. 
The  Pleasant  Valley  girls  have  studied  about  this.  Do 
you  know  that  it  costs  to  keep  clean  ?  It  takes  time 
and  energy  and  much  thought.  People  who  live  in 
the  country  can  keep  clean  more  easily  than  city 
people.  This  is  a  good  way  to  air  and  brush  your 
cloth  garments  :  Hang  them  on  the  line,  and  beat  with 
a  clothes  beater.  Turn  the  cuffs  or  collars  and  pockets 
inside  out  if  possible.  Brush  with  a  whisk  brush  care- 
fully all  over.  Shake  free  from  dust  and  let  them  hang 
in  the  sunshine.  They  will  smell  sweet  and  clean. 

Pressing  suits  and  skirts.  A  suit  or  skirt  which  is 
kept  well  pressed  has  a  neater  appearance  and  keeps 
its  shape  for  a  longer  time.  Tailors  do  this  work  ;  but 
one  can  learn  to  do  it  at  home,  if  no  tailor  is  near,  and 
can  save  the  money,  too,  if  one  has  the  time.  It  is  a 
good  general  rule  to  press  on  the  wrong  side  unless  one 
is  using  the  steaming  process.  Then,  one  presses  on 
the  right  side,  over  dampened  cloth.  Wring  the  cloth, 
place  over  a  portion  of  the  garment,  and  press  with 
hot  irons  until  nearly  dry.  After  steaming  the  gar- 
ment all  over  on  the  right  side,  turn  to  the  wrong  side 


158  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

and  press  dry.  Woolen  goods  will  mark  or  shine  if 
pressed  on  the  right  side  without  a  cloth.  This  press- 
ing will  add  to  the  life  of  a  suit.  Good  press  boards, 
tailors'  cushions,  and  sleeve  boards  help  very  much  if 
one  has  them. 

It  is  always  wise  to  examine  clothes  before  pressing 
and  to  remove  any  spots  which  have  accumulated. 
Grease,  milk,  oil,  sugar  are  common  spots  which  girls 
are  apt  to  get  on  their  woolen  clothing.  The  Pleasant 
Valley  girls  studied  how  to  remove  these. 

Removing  stains  and  spots.  Woolen  goods  which 
are  soiled  and  badly  spotted  can  be  cleaned  by  washing 
in  warm  water  with  soap  solution  or  soap  bark.  Here 
are  some  recipes  for  making  soap  solution  or  soap 
bark: 

Soap  Solution.  Simmer  (do  not  boil)  one  cake  of  white  soap  in 
two  or  three  quarts  of  water. 

Soap  Bark.  I  cup  of  soap  bark  or  powder  in  three  or  four 
quarts  of  water.  Let  it  stand  two  hours.  Strain  and  pour  into 
the  lukewarm  water  in  which  the  material  is  to  be  washed.  Why 
is  lukewarm  water  used  ?  Wash  and  rinse  carefully.  Always  use 
water  of  same  temperature  for  rinsing.  What  would  the  shock  of 
cold  water  do  ?  Bath  temperature  is  about  right. 

All  woolen  garments  should  be  washed  and  rinsed 
carefully  in  lukewarm  water  only.  Some  day  we  shall 
try  at  school.  Good  pure  white  soap  is  best  for  woolens. 
Why  do  woolens  shrink  in  hot  water  ?  Why  are  they 
difficult  to  cleanse  ? 

Let  us  examine  the  school  coats  to  see  if  we  can  find 


CARING  FOR  CLOTHES  159 

grease.  As  a  rule  grease  spots  can  be  removed  by 
washing  with  soap  solution  and  lukewarm  water. 
Wagon  grease  can  be  removed  with  lard  ;  then  wash  in 
warm  water.  Grease  may  also  be  removed  by  dry 
cleaning,  or  chemical  cleaning  as  it  is  called.  The  clean- 
ing liquid  may  be  benzine  or  ether.  This  is  a  warning  : 
D-A-N-G-E-R.  These  must  not  be  used  near  fire  or 
an  explosion  will  occur.  A  bad  accident  occurred  at 
Pleasant  Valley  in  just  this  way  when  Mrs.  Leroy  was 
cleaning  her  white  gloves.  Rub  the  spot  on  the 
wool  garment  with  a  cloth  or  sponge  wet  with  benzine. 
The  grease  or  fat  spreads  when  dissolved  ;  a  piece  of 
blotting  paper  under  will  help  to  absorb  some  of  the 
grease.  Care  must  be  taken  to  use  fresh  benzine  as 
each  rub  removes  some  of  the  fat,  which  will  spread  if 
rubbed  in  again.  It  is  usually  wise  to  use  as  a  sponge 
a  piece  of  the  same  material.  Rub  towards  the  center 
so  as  to  avoid  a  ring.  The  spot  cleaned  will  usually  be 
lighter  than  the  rest  of  the  garment,  which  is  apt  to  be 
soiled.  Sometimes  by  rubbing  the  surface  near  the  spot 
all  over,  the  ring  will  not  be  noticeable.  Another  way 
to  remove  grease  is  to  try  a  warm  iron  and  a  blotting 
paper.  Place  paper  on  right  side,  iron  on  the  wrong 
side  of  the  cloth.  This  will  remove  some  grease  spots,  as 
the  blotter  absorbs  it. 

Marjorie  Allen  discovered  that  sugar  spots  can  be 
removed  with  warm  water.  Dip  cloth  in  water  and 
wash  thoroughly  and  rinse  before  pressing.  What 
does  the  warm  water  do  to  the  sugar  ? 


i6o 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


Milk  spots  can  be  removed  from  some  materials 
with  cold  water  and  pure  white  soap.  Why  cold  ? 

Machine  oil  spots  can  be  removed  by  washing  in 
cold  water  and  pure  white  soap.  This  will  remove 


Courtesy  of  Miss  Alice  Blair 

FIG.  95.  —  Which  way  do  you  arrange  clothes  in  your  closet  ? 

most  machine  oil  spots.  Barbara  Oakes  got  some  oil 
on  her  nightdress  while  making  it,  and  removed 
the  oil  easily  in  this  way. 

These  simple  rules  will  help  every  girl  to  be  neat.  Let 
us  see  how  many  garments  you  can  clean  at  home  after 
you  have  learned  to  brush,  clean,  and  press  one  at  school. 


CARING  FOR  CLOTHES 


161 


Protecting  clothes.  Marjorie's  cousin  takes  good 
care  of  her  clothing  while  it  is  in  use.  When  she  works 
about  the  house  she  always  wears  an  apron.  Do  you  ? 
This  saves  a  great  deal.  You 
know  how  to  make  some  attrac- 
tive ones. 

When  she  removes  her  clothing 
it  is  not  thrown  in  a  heap,  but  is 
hung  up  on  skirt  or  coat  hangers. 
They  are  very  cheap  or  one  can 
make  them.  Barrel  staves  or 
even  rolls  of  newspaper,  rolled 
securely  and  covered  may  be  used 
as  coat  hangers,  a  cord  or  ribbon 
may  be  tied  at  the  center.  Nails 
between  two  points  in  a  closet 
will  keep  the  bands  of  skirts  ex- 
tended, when  loops  are  sewed  to 
the  bands.  Marjorie's  cousin  al- 
ways airs  her  clothes  at  night 
(Fig.  56  ),  and  when  necessary 
washes'  her  shields  and  hangs  them  up  to  dry.  Many 
girls  do  not  realize  how  necessary  this  is.  The  odor  of 
perspiration  is  not  neat  and  is  offensive  to  others.  If 
one  washes  one's  self  carefully  with  warm  water  in 
which  borax  has  been  dissolved  this  odor  will  not  be 
noticeable.  Marjorie  noticed  that  her  cousin  has  covers 
over  her  good  clothes  (Fig.  96).  This  saves  a  great  deal. 
Also  she  is  particular  about  sewing  buttons  on  her 


FIG.  96.  —  A  useful   cover  to 
protect  your  best  dress. 


162 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


shoes,  and  braid  on  her  skirt  when  it  is  torn.  She  also 
washes  the  yokes  of  her  dresses  and  sometimes  her  own 
shirt  waists.  She  is  going  to  teach  Marjorie  to  do  this. 
Some  day  we  shall  learn  at  school.  Do  you  know  that 
Marjorie  discovered  that  the  people  at  the  summer 
boarding  houses  near  have  difficulty  in  having  their 

dainty  shirt  waists  carefully 
laundered.  She  is  going  to 
practice  during  the  winter 
and  next  summer  she  will 
earn  some  money  in  that 
way.  It  is  a  good  idea. 
Perhaps  some  day  she  may 
have  a  laundry  of  her  own, 
if  she  is  a  good  manager 
and  can  have  help  to  work 
with  her. 

Cousin  Ann  told  Marjorie 
that  each  winter  she  is  par- 
ticular about  buying  a  pair 
of  rubbers.  She  finds  they 
save  her  shoes  because  they 
prevent  the  dampness  and  wet  from  rotting  the  thread 
of  the  shoes.  She  is  particular  about  having  her  heels 
straight.  Cousin  Ann  believes  that  many  girls  lose  good 
positions  because  they  are  not  clean  and  neat  about  their 
personal  appearance.  Run  over  heels  are  not  neat. 
Ann  is  careful  about  having  her  shoes  resoled  when 
necessary,  and  so  lengthens  their  life.  She  wears  an  old 


FIG.  97.  —  Cousin  Ann  thinks  about 
these  things. 


CARING  FOR  CLOTHES  163 

pair  of  shoes  on  rainy  days  with  her  rubbers.  Ann 
knows  that  wet  feet  are  dangerous.  One  may  not  feel 
the  results  at  once,  but  sometime  the  effect  on  health 
will  be  felt. 

Next  lesson  let  us  learn  how  to  keep  our  clothing 
darned.  You  may  bring  any  garment  or  towel  or 
other  piece  of  household  linen  which  has  a  tear,  and 
we  shall  learn  to  darn  it. 


EXERCISES   AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Carry  some  of  your  clothes  to  the  back  yard.     Brush  them, 
and  hang  them  in  the  sunshine. 

2.  Try  at  home  to  press  your  wool  skirt.     Steam  it;   it  is  not 
difficult  to  do. 

3.  Do  you  know  of  any  other  way  besides  those  Cousin  Ann 
tried,  of  keeping  your  clothes  clean  so  as  to  prevent  them  from 
getting  spotted  ? 

4.  Do  you  not  think  that  knowing  how  to  launder  shirt  waists 
carefully  would  be  a  good  way  to  earn  money  when  the  summer 
boarders  come  to  your  town  ? 


LESSON  2 
LEARNING  TO  DARN  STRAIGHT  TEARS 

What  threads  of  the  cloth  are  torn,  in  a  square  tear  ?  in  a  straight 
tear  ?  How  can  we  replace  these  threads  and  prevent  the  article 
from  tearing  further  ? 

There  is  always  a  collection  of  garments  needing 
repairs  in  any  home  where  there  are  boys  and  girls. 


i64 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


What  a  help  it  will  be  to  mother  to  have  some  one  who 
can  darn  some  of  the  tears.     Mrs.   Alden  was  very 


II 

I 


FIG.  98.  —  These  tears  run  in  different  directions.     Which  kind 
of  a  tear  will  you  have  to  darn  in  your  dress  ? 

glad  that  Florence  was  learning  to  darn,  for  she  has 
so  many  things  to  patch  and  darn  for  her  family.  How 
many  different  kinds  of  tears  have  been  brought  to-day  ? 


CARING   FOR  CLOTHES  165 

Yes,  here  is  a  straight  tear  on  this  napkin ;  yes,  two 
straight  tears.  Who  can  tell  which  threads  have  been 
torn  in  this  first  tear  ?  Find  the  selvedge ;  the  tear 
runs  across  the  selvedge.  In  the  second  straight  tear, 
the  tear  runs  up  and  down  with  the  selvedge,  or  warp. 
Which  threads  have  been  torn  ?  Here  is  a  garment 
with  a  square  corner  tear.  John  Alden  tore  his  overalls 
climbing  over  the  barbed  wire  fence.  In  this  tear 
which  threads  have  been  torn  ?  So  we  see  that  in 
some  tears,  the  warp  is  torn ;  in  others,  the  filling 
threads ;  and  in  others,  like  the  square  tear,  both 
warp  and  filling  threads.  Now  darning  means  putting 
back  the  threads  which  have  been  worn  or  torn  away. 
Miss  James  told  her  class  it  is  very  useful  to  keep  some 
black  and  white  wash  net  in  the  mending  basket.  A 
little  piece  basted  under  the  worn  or  torn  place  to  be 
darned  is  a  great  help ;  for  it  reenforces  the  weak 
place  and  makes  it  last  longer.  It  is  put  on  the  wrong 
side  of  the  article  to  be  darned.  The  picture 
(Fig.  98)  shows  two  straight  tears :  a  slanting  one, 
and  also  a  square  corner  tear.  Everyone  knows 
how  to  make  the  running  stitch.  Darning  is 
fine  running.  Begin  without  a  knot  and  a  little 
beyond  the  tear  for  strength.  Fill  in  the  missing  thread 
with  rows  of  stitches  close  together.  The  stitches 
should  extend  far  enough  each  side  of  the  tear  to  take 
in  the  worn  part  also.  In  turning  at  the  end  of  each 
row,  leave  a  tiny  loop.  Why  ?  Do  not  leave  a  very 
large  one,  but  simply  one  large  enough  to  allow  for 


166  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

stretching  and  pulling  in  washing.  In  passing  over 
the  threads  at  the  torn  place,  try  to  make  the  stitches 
hold  down  the  threads.  In  finishing  extend  the  rows 
beyond  the  tear  as  at  the  beginning.  Either  a  warp 
or  woof  straight  tear  is  mended  in  this  way.  A  square 
tear  is  a  combination  of  the  two.  At  the  corner  there 
will  then  be  both  warp  and  filling  threads  and  a  double 
darn  like  a  weave.  Can  you  see  from  the  picture 
how  this  will  look  ?  The  thread  should  match  as  nearly 
as  possible.  Sometimes  horsehair  or  human  hair  makes 
a  good  darning  thread  when  one  does  not  wish  the 
darn  to  show,  or  split  silk  thread  or  No.  150  cotton. 
Ravelings  of  the  same  cloth  are  sometimes  used.  The 
size  of  the  needle  will  depend  on  the  fineness  of  the 
cloth  to  be  darned.  No.  8  is  right  for  ordinary 
darning. 

Where  can  you  use  this  darn  ?  Is  it  the  same  as 
stocking  darn  ?  Next  lesson  every  one  is  to  bring  from 
home  a  stocking,  white,  brown,  or  black.  Can  you 
mend  one  at  school  to  surprise  mother  or  father  or 
brother  ?  The  Pleasant  Valley  girls  did.  Mr.  Allen 
said  Marjorie  darned  his  socks  so  well  that  he  couldn't 
even  feel  the  darn  when  he  walked  ! 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Show  mother  how  you  can  mend  a  straight  tear  by  mending 
one  for  her  at  home.     Perhaps  there  is  a  straight  tear  in  her  dress, 
or  in  a  towel  or  napkin. 

2.  Why  is  it  worth  while  to  mend  it  ? 


CARING   FOR  CLOTHES 


167 


LESSON  3 
DARNING  STOCKINGS 

We  all  have  stockings  to  darn  each  week  as  they  come  from  the 
laundry.  Do  you  mend  the  small  holes  at  once,  or  let  them  grow 
larger  ? 

It  is  always  a  saving  of  time  and  energy  to  take  care  of  the  small 
holes ;  small  ones  grow  to  be  larger  ones  if  one  is  not  careful.  It 
pays  to  mend  at  once.  We  will  learn  how  to  mend  stockings. 

Stocking  darning  differs  from  darning  the  straight 
or  the  square  tear,  because,  as  a 
rule,  there  is  a  hole  in  the  stock- 
ing. The  stocking  material  is  worn 
away,  and  it  is  necessary  to  replace 
it  with  a  small  piece  of  weaving 
over  and  under  of  warp  and  filling. 
A  patch  or  extra  piece  of  material 
might  be  placed  under  the  hole, 
but  that  would  be  uncomfortable ; 
so  a  woven  piece  is  put  in.  The 
stocking  is  made  of  knitted  mate- 
rial called  stockinet,  not  of  woven 
cloth.  How  do  they  differ  ?  Can 
you  think  of  other  articles  of  cloth- 
ing made  of  knitted  material  ? 
Yes,  mittens,  sweaters,  caps,  under- 
wear. Have  you  ever  seen  a  knit- 
ting machine  ?  Here  is  a  picture  (Fig.  99)  of  one  show- 
ing how  the  stocking  is  knitted  in  the  factory  to-day 


Courtesy  of  H.  Brinton  Co. 
FIG.  99.  —  The  knitting  ma- 
chine.     Caps,    stockings, 
and   underwear  are  made 
on  similar  machines. 


168  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

on  the  knitting  machines.  In  weaving  there  are  two 
threads.  What  are  they  ?  In  knitting  there  is  only 
one  thread  ;  just  like  grandmother's  knitting  of  the 
stocking  round  and  round  as  the  tiny  loops  are  formed. 
Have  you  ever  torn  your  stocking  in  a  loop  and  had 
it  run  right  down  the  whole  leg  of  the  stocking  ?  Bar- 
bara Oakes  had  this  experience.  That  shows  how  the 
tiny  loops  are  made.  If  one  catches  the  loop,  the 
raveling  is  prevented. 

This  is  how  we  shall  darn  our  stockings.  Use 
single  or  double  darning  thread,  according  to  the  fine- 
ness of  the  stocking,  and  a  darning  needle.  Can  you 
thread  the  big  eye  by  doubling  the  end  of  the  thread  ? 

Begin  on  the  wrong  side  without  a  knot,  about  J-  of 
an  inch  to  the  right  of  the  hole.  The  stitches  are 
the  same  fine  running  as  for  other  darning,  and 
the  rows  made  close  together.  Look  at  the  pic- 
ture (Fig.  100).  The  darn  is  about  diamond  shape 
when  finished.  Why  ?  This  prevents  the  strain  from 
coming  on  any  one  row  of  loops.  A  tiny  loop  is 
left  at  each  row  in  turning,  as  stockinet  is  a  stretchy 
material.  This  darning  should  run  the  same  way  as 
the  loops,  up  and  down  the  material.  Care  must 
be  taken  at  the  hole.  If  possible,  pass  the  needle 
through  the  loop  at  the  edge  of  the  hole  and  extend 
the  thread  across  the  hole  to  the  loop  opposite,  and 
continue  with  the  darning  stitch.  When  the  warp 
is  all  in,  there  will  be  rows  of  threads  close  together 
extending  across  the  hole.  In  fine  darning  or  when 


CARING   FOR  CLOTHES 


169 


one  is  darning  sweaters  or  gloves,  all  the  loops  at  the 
edge  of  the  hole  should  be  carefully  caught.  For 
everyday  stocking  darning,  one  does  not  have  time  to 
stpp  for  every  loop  at  the  edge  of  the  hole. 
As  we  said  above,  the  hole  is  to  be  filled  in  with  a 
piece  of  woven  material  which  we  are  making.  The 


FIG.  100. 


A,  the  wrong  side  of  the  stocking  darn  putting  in  the  first  set  of 
threads;  B,  weaving  in  the  second  thread. 


warp  (Fig.  100  A)  has  all  been  put  in  ;  then  we  must  go 
over  part  of  the  darn  and  fill  in  the  cross  threads,  which 
are  woven  over  and  under  the  warp  threads  which  have 
been  put  in  at  the  hole.  The  running  stitch  is  used. 
The  sketch  (Fig.  100  B)  shows  the  portion  of  the  darn 
to  be  covered  with  the  running  stitches,  and  just  where 
the  weaving  is  to  be  done.  You  will  notice  that  the 
first  row  of  crosswise  running  stitches  is  placed  a  little 


i yo  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

below  the  hole,  and  the  last  row  extends  a  little  above. 
Why  ?  At  the  hole  one  must  go  over  and  under  the 
warp,  alternately,  as  one  does  in  weaving.  This  is  all 
done  with  one  thread  which  is  carried  in  fine  running 
stitches  to  the  hole,  then  passes  over  and  under  the 
warp  threads,  and  continues  with  running  stitches  at 
the  other  side  of  darn ;  turns  with  a  tiny  loop,  con- 
tinues with  running,  and  again  passes  over  and  under 
the  warp  alternately.  This  is  continued  until  the 
darn  is  completed. 

Sometimes  there  are  tiny  rips  in  the  seams  of  stock- 
ings. They  can  be  overhanded  carefully  on  the  wrong 
side,  taking  up  only  the  very  edges  of  the  seam  so  as  not 
to  make  a  ridge.  If  the  long  ladders  which  sometimes 
come  in  stockings  are  not  too  wide,  they  can  be  over- 
handed  together  on  the  wrong  side ;  or,  if  one  has 
time,  they  can  be  darned  as  a  hole.  As  a  rule  this  is  a 
waste  of  time.  A  worn  place  near  a  hole  should  be 
included  in  a  darn,  or  where  several  small  holes  are 
close  together,  darn  in  one  large  darn. 

What  kind  of  stockings  do  you  buy  ?  Marjorie's 
Cousin  Ann  says  it  does  not  pay  her  to  buy  very  cheap 
stockings,  at  15  cents  a  pair,  or  very  thin  ones  either. 
She  has  discovered  that  if  she  pays  25  cents  a  pair  or 
a  dollar  for  three  pairs  of  a  good  make,  and  cares  for 
them,  watching  when  the  tiny  holes  appear,  that  she 
can  make  six  pairs  last  a  whole  year.  Ann  says  that 
the  girls  who  buy  the  very  thin  transparent  stockings 
are  buying  stockings  all  the  time ;  and  then,  too,  they 


REPAIRING  LINEN  171 

are  often  ridiculed  by  others.  One  is  not  well  dressed 
when  one  is  conspicuous  and  when  one's  clothing  is 
noticed  and  criticized  in  such  a  way. 
>  Next  lesson  you  may  bring  a  stocking  which  has  been 
darned  at  home.  Credit  will  be  given  for  this.  Do 
you  think  you  can  darn  one  all  alone  ?  It  is  not  diffi- 
cult if  one  follows  carefully  the  description  above. 
You  may  also  bring  a  linen  towel  or  napkin  or  table- 
cloth which  has  a  hole.  We  shall  learn  how  to  patch 
the  holes.  The  Pleasant  Valley  pupils  had  a  darning 
contest.  Mrs.  Allen  was  invited  to  be  the  judge. 
Who  do  you  suppose  made  the  best-looking  stocking 
darn  ?  Mollie  Stark  won. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

I.  Darn  one  of  father's  socks  or  baby  sister's  stocking  or  any 
other  you  can  at  home.  Surprise  mother  by  showing  her  how 
well  you  can  darn,  after  your  school  practice. 

LESSON  4 

PATCHING    SAVES    CLOTHING   AND    OTHER   ARTICLES 

Some  holes  are  too  large  to  darn ;  they  are,  then,  repaired  with 
a  patch.  Would  you  like  to  learn  how  to  patch  ? 

How  to  make  the  hemmed  patch.  A  patch  is  a 
piece  of  cloth  cut  larger  than  the  worn  hole  and  used 
to  cover  the  hole.  The  hemmed  patch  is  the  simplest 
and  most  useful.  It  is  sewed  with  the  hemming  stitch 
and  so  called  the  hemmed  patch  because  all  the  rough 


172 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


edges  of  the  patch  are  turned  under  and  hemmed  flat. 
This  kind  of  patch  is  used  on  garments  or  household 
articles  which  are  to  be  laundered.  It  is  a  good  one 
for  towels,  napkins,  or  tablecloths,  and  for  underwear. 
Perhaps  you  have  some  tablecloths,  napkins,  and  towels 
which  have  been  brought  to  patch  to-day.  Miss 


I-- 

M 

•                       ma^m^!^                      m^^mem      , 

~~V  f  777  1    •  ' 

u 

^ 

ll 

I1 

^ 

-  -  1 

FIG.  101.  —  The  patch  as  it  should  look  on  the  wrong  sidt 


in  prc 


&ss  of  hemming. 


James  brought  some  for  her  class.  For  patches  some 
girls  brought  pieces  as  nearly  like  the  towels  and  napkins 
which  they  brought  as  possible.  It  is  better  to  patch 
with  material  which  has  been  used,  than  with  new 
material.  Why  ?  The  hemmed  patch  is  always  put 
on  the  wrong  side.  Cut  a  square  or  oblong  piece  which 
will  cover  the  hole,  and  extend  beyond  the  worn  part. 


REPAIRING   LINEN 


173 


Allow  J  inch  extra  all  around  for  turnings.  Crease  this 
patch  diagonally.  Find  the  center  of  the  hole  of  the 
worn  article.  Crease  it  in  diagonal  lines  for  a  square 
br  oblong,  according  to  shape  of  place  to  be  patched. 
Pin  patch  on  wrong  side  so  that  diagonal  creases  of 
patch  fall  on  diagonal  creases  of  the  article.  Turn  to 


•• 

If 

/' 

mmm 

tiff 

"™^J          1 

'''/I 

) 

1 

—                  

FIG.  102.  —  Hemming  the  patch  in  place,  on  the  right  side. 

right  side.  Cut  the  hole,  removing  all  frayed  edges 
until  it  is  a  true  square  or  oblong,  measuring  from 
the  center  where  diagonal  creases  cross.  After  cutting, 
make  a  tiny  slanting  cut  from  \  to  J  inch  at  each  corner 
on  the  diagonal  creases  of  the  article,  and  turn  under 
these  cut  edges.  Pin  and  baste  carefully.  Turn  to 
wrong  side.  Hold  to  light  to  see  if  the  patch  is  the 


i74  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

same  width  on  all  sides  of  the  hole.  Trim  if  necessary. 
Remove  pins,  flatten,  turn  edges  of  the  patch  by 
opposites,  and  baste.  The  hemming  stitch  is  then  used 
on  both  the  right  and  wrong  sides  of  the  patch  to  hold 
the  edges.  This  patch  is  laundered  flat  and  neat.  For 
next  lesson  we  shall  study  about  the  table  linen  and 
towels.  We  know  that  some  of  them  are  linen.  Where 
does  linen  come  from  ?  Do  you  know  whether  it  is  a 
plant  or  an  animal  ?  There  are  several  reference  books 
on  the  shelf.  See  how  much  you  can  discover  about 
this  secret. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Practice  making  a  hemmed  patch  at  home.     Mother  will 
surely  have  a  tablecloth  or  an  undergarment  or  an  apron  which 
needs  a  patch.     Try  to  keep  the  patch  very  flat. 

2.  See  how  much  you  can  learn  about  linen  before  next  lesson. 

LESSON  5 

THE  STORY  OF  HOW  LINEN  IS  GROWN 

What  is  the  story  of  our  linen  materials  ? 

Where  do  they  come  from  ?     Would  you  like  to  know  ? 

Mollie's  Stark's  Uncle  John  has  just  come  to  Pleasant 
Valley.  He  is  her  father's  brother  and  has  been  in  the 
linen  business  in  Ireland.  He  told  the  Girls'  League 
the  other  evening  about  flax  and  about  how  it  is  made 
into  cloth.  This  is  the  story  he  told.  It  has  also 
been  printed  in  the  "  Pleasant  Valley  News."  Have 
you  read  it  ? 


REPAIRING  LINEN 


Where  does  flax  grow  ?  Ireland  is  a  cool  country, 
and  flax  is  a  plant  which  grows  well  in  cool  places. 
Cotton,  we  have  learned,  is  grown  in  warm  countries. 
Do  you  know  that  Russia  produces  about  half  of  the 
world's  supply  of  flax  ?  Find  your  map  of  Europe, 
and  see  if  you  can  locate  all  these  countries.  The 
Russian  flax  is  rather  inferior  in  quality. 
Ireland  and  Belgium  produce  the  best 
quality  of  fiber.  Flax  is  also  grown  in 
Holland  and  France,  and  in  Egypt  and 
Italy.  The  United  States  grows  some 
flax ;  but  it  is  a  rather  coarse  fiber  used 
for  crash  and  for  bagging.  The  United 
States  grows  very  little  flax  and  only  for 
the  coarser  purposes.  This  is  for  the 
reason  that  labor  is  very  expensive  ;  and 
flax,  like  silk,  needs  much  care  if  weeded 
and  grown  for  fiber.  The  care  of  the 
worms  makes  silk  expensive.  Flax  grown 
for  seed  or  coarse  purposes  does  not  re- 
quire so  much  care. 

What  is  the  flax  plant  ?  Perhaps  your 
teacher  will  buy  some  flax  seed  which 
you  can  plant  in  the  school  garden.  The  Pleasant 
Valley  girls  did,  and  it  grew  quite  tall.  Then  you  can 
really  see  how  the  growing  plant  looks.  Your  teacher 
will  have  some  dry  flax  to  show  you.  Do  you  know 
how  a  waving  field  of  wheat  or  oats  looks  ?  Flax  is 
planted  thickly  when  it  is  grown  for  its  fiber.  It  comes 


FIG  103.  —  The  flax 


176  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 

up  straight  like  the  wheat  and  does  not  branch.  When 
it  is  planted  for  its  seed,  it  is  not  planted  so  thickly  be- 
cause it  must  have  more  room  to  branch  and  bear  seed. 
Flaxseed  is  used  for  many  purposes.  Flaxseed,  or  lin- 
seed, oil  is  used  for  paints  and  varnishes,  and  even  for 
food,  in  some  countries.  Like  cotton  seed,  the  dry  cake, 
or  meal,  left  is  a  valuable  food  for  cattle.  Has  mother 
ever  used  the  oil  or  the  meal  for  anything  at  home  ? 

The  flax  plant  as  it  grows  is  from  20  to  40  inches  in 
height.  It  has  lovely  little  blue  flowers  on  the  stems 
which  branch  at  the  top.  Uncle  John  knew  a  little 
girl  at  Pleasant  Valley  who  thought  the  flax  came 
from  the  little  brown  seed  pods  on  top,  just  as  the  cotton 
comes  from  the  seed  pod,  or  boll.  It  does  not ;  for 
the  flax  fiber  is  the  part  of  the  long  stem  which  grows 
just  inside  of  the  outside  woody  portion.  So,  you  see 
flax  fibers  can  be  from  20  to  40  inches  long,  according 
to  the  height  of  the  plant.  The  wonderful  part  of  the 
story  is  how  the  fibers  are  removed  from  the  long  stems. 

How  is  flax  grown  ?  Flax  requires  much  hand  labor 
in  its  care  while  growing.  The  women  and  children 
in  Europe  weed  it  and  care  for  it,  on  their  hands  and 
knees.  When  it  is  full  grown  and  the  flowers  have  come 
and  gone,  the  tiny  seed  pods  grow  where  the  flowers 
have  fallen,  just  like  the  seed  pods  your  peonies  or 
poppies  grow.  Before  the  seeds  are  quite  ripe,  and 
while  the  stalks  are  brownish  yellow,  the  flax  is  ready 
to  be  pulled.  It  is  not  cut  like  wheat  with  the  reaper 
and  gathered  into  bundles,  but  must  be  pulled  up  by 


REPAIRING  LINEN 


177 


the  roots.  This  is  done  in  clear  weather,  by  hand.  The 
pulled  flax  is  laid  on  the  ground  with  the  roots  together 
and  the  stalks  parallel.  The  stalks  are  then  bound 
something  like  the  wheat,  and  stacked  in  stooks.  You 
have  often  seen  oats  or  wheat  so  stacked. 


Courtesy  of  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture . 

FIG.  104.  —  The  stooks  of  flax. 

What  is  rippling  and  retting  flax  ?  The  next  process 
is  to  remove  all  the  seeds  without  injuring  the  long 
fibers.  The  machine  for  this  looks  like  a  comb  made 
of  iron  teeth  set  in  a  wooden  frame.  This  frame  is 
placed  on  a  cloth  so  as  to  collect  all  the  seed  as  it  falls. 
This  is  called  rippling,  and  is  done  in  the  fields.  The 
seed  pods  are  drawn  across  the  teeth  which  remove 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


the  seeds.  Then  the  flax 
is  bound  in  bundles  for 
the  next  process,  which  is 
retting.  This  is  really  the 
most  important  part  of  all, 
for  it  means  rotting  the 
outside  woody  portion  of 
the  stem  so  as  to  get  the 
flax  fiber.  This  woody 
portion  is  of  no  value. 
The  flax  is  sometimes 
retted  by  dew  ;  just  left  on 
the  ground  at  night.  You 
know  how  wet  the  grass  can  be  early  in  the  morn- 
ing. So  the  dew,  rain,  air,  and  sunshine  decompose 


Courtesy  of  Speyer  School,  New  York. 
FIG.  105.  —  This  little  girl  is  rippling  flax 
by  hand  at  school.     Can  you  see  the 
seeds  ? 


Co'irtesy  of  Woolman  &  McGowan,  Textiles. 
FIG.  106.  —  Flax  retting  at  Courtrai,  Belgium. 

the  outside  woody  bark.     This  is  a  very  slow  process. 
More  often  flax  is  retted  in  water.     The  bundles  are 


REPAIRING  LINEN 


179 


placed  in  crates  or  boxes,  and  left  for  about  two  weeks 
under  water.  If  you  grow  some  flax,  you  can  ret  it 
also  and  remove  the  fiber.  Do  you  know  what  takes 
place  when  the  woody  part  decomposes  ?  It  is  called 
fermentation.  What  have  you  learned  about  fermen- 
tation ?  (See  Food  and  Health.)  After  retting,  the 
flax  is  spread  to  dry  in 
the  fields  and  is  then 
ready  for  the  next  pro- 
cess, called  breaking.  Just 
think  of  how  many  things 
have  been  done  to  the 
fibers  of  our  linen  towels 
and  napkins  and  dresses, 
which  we  use  every  day. 
Jane  Smith  said  she  never 
realized  before  how  many 
hands  prepare  our  cloth- 
ing and  other  materials. 
What  is  meant  by  break- 
ing flax  ?  Breaking  means 
removing  the  dry  wood 
portion  which  has  been  decomposed  by  the  retting. 
This  is  sometimes  done  by  means  of  a  hand  break.  In 
the  picture  (Fig.  107)  you  will  see  a  little  girl  of  Pleasant 
Valley  breaking  flax  by  hand.  Sometimes  the  woody 
part  is  broken  away  by  passing  the  flax  between  rollers 
of  a  machine  which  is  run  by  power.  These  power  mills 
are  called  scutching  mills  ;  scutching  means  cleaning  and 


Courtesy  of  Spet/er  School,  New  York. 
FIG.  107.  —  Flax  breaking  done  by  hand. 


i8o 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


breaking.  After  this  process  the  flax  lies  in  long  bundles 
of  parallel  fibers,  something  like  a  girl's  hair  as  it  is 
ready  to  be  braided.  The  flax  varies  in  color ;  some- 
times it  is  gray  or  of  a 
greenish  tint,  and  some- 
times pale  yellow. 

If  you  have  a  microscope 
or  a  glass  at  school,  ex- 
amine the  flax  fiber.  See 
how  it  looks,  rough  and 
woody.  It  also  looks  some- 
thing like  the  silk  fibers, 
straight.  It  has  tiny  mark- 
ings or  spots  called  nodes. 

FIG.  108. -Flax  fibers  magnified.  pjax     jg     principally     Cellu- 

lose.     Do  you  know  what  cellulose  means  ?     Look  it  up 
in  the  dictionary. 

So  you  see  that  the  long  fibers  are  freed  from  the 
stem  of  the  flax  plant  and  are  ready  for  the  manu- 
facturer to  spin  into  yarn  to  be  woven  'into  cloth,  or 
to  make  it  into  cord,  rope,  twine, 
lace,  or  thread  for  many  useful 
purposes.  Isn't  this  an  interest- 
ing story  ?  Flax  cultivation  is 
one  of  the  most  ancient  indus- 
tries. Think  how  very  useful  it 
is,  both  for  fiber  and  for  seed.  It  has  been  grown  for  at 
least  5000  years  in  Egypt  and  in  Assyria.  Do  you  re- 
member reading  about  the  ancient  mummies  which  have 


FIG.  109.  —  The  mummies  of 
Egypt  are  found  wrapped  in 
linen  cloth  made  from  flax 
long  ago. 


REPAIRING   LINEN  181 

been  found  wrapped  in  linen  in  the  tombs  of  Egypt  ? 
In  the  Bible,  chapter  xlii  of  the  book  of  Genesis,  we  are 
told  that  Pharaoh  arrayed  Joseph  in  vestures  of  fine 
linen.  Do  you  know  of  any  other  Bible  references  which 
tell  of  the  use  of  linen  in  ancient  times  ?  Have  you  ever 
heard  of  the  Swiss  lake  dwellers  ?  Perhaps  your  teacher 
will  tell  you  about  them,  or  you  can  look  it  up  in  the 
encyclopedia.  They  too  used  linen  long  ago,  for  pieces 
have  been  found  and  are  in  the  museums  in  Switzerland. 
Next  lesson  we  shall  make  a  large  chart  for  the  school- 
room, which  will  tell  the  story  of  flax.  You  may  bring 
anything  which  you  think  will  help  to  illustrate  that 
story.  We  shall  also  mount  on  the  chart  the  most 
common  linen  materials  which  we  use  in  our  homes. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Examine  a  flax  fiber  with  a  microscope  or  a  magnifying  glass. 
What  do  you  see  ? 

2.  Look  up  references  which  prove  the  age  of  flax  culture. 

3.  Perhaps  some  one  near  your  school  has  been  in  the  linen 
business  in  Ireland.     Perhaps  he  will  come  to  the  school  and  tell 
the  boys  and  girls  about  it.     Try  to  find  some  one. 

LESSON  6 

COMMON  LINEN  MATERIALS  ARE  IDENTIFIED 

Can  we  learn  to  identify  at  least  eight  of  the  common  linen 
^materials  ? 

To-day  we  shall  study  about  the  different  linen  ma- 
terials, and  then  see  what  we  have  to  mount  on  our 


182  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

school  chart.  If  you  prefer,  you  may  make  a  book  of 
linen  materials  like  the  cotton  and  silk. 

Let  us  divide  the  pieces  which  have  been  brought 
to  school  into  two  piles :  the  thin,  and  the  thicker  ones. 
We  have  more  of  the  thick  ones.  Yes,  we  all  know  the 
heavy  coarse  linen  is  called  Russian  crash.  We  used 
it  for  our  porch  cushions  or  covers.  It  comes  from 
1 8  to  36  inches  in  width  and  costs  from  15  cents  a  yard 
up  to  75  cents  sometimes.  We  know  it  is  used  for 
dresses,  and  sometimes  for  toweling  and  upholstery 
uses.  It  is  unbleached  in  color. 

This  wide  sample  is  linen  sheeting.  Our  great-grand- 
mothers .  always  had  linen  sheets  of  flax  which  they 
grew,  spun,  and  wove,  because  long  ago  cotton  was  not 
grown.  Some  of  the  Pleasant  Valley  girls  saw  these 
sheets  which  Grandmother  Allen  made.  Sheeting 
comes  in  several  widths,  and  costs  about  $i  per  yard 
up.  Cotton  sheeting  is  cheaper. 

The  one  thin  one  is  handkerchief  linen.  It  costs 
from  60  cents  to  $2.00  per  yard.  What  kind  of  a 
weave  is  it  ?  What  is  it  used  for  ?  The  other  thin 
piece  is  called  batiste.  It,  too,  is  used  for  waists  and 
dress  linens,  and  it  is  fine  and  sheer.  It  can  be  used 
for  handkerchiefs  too.  It  costs  about  $1.00  per  yard 
up,  according  to  the  fineness,  and  is  i  yard  or  more 
wide.  Batiste  is  made  of  cotton,  also,  and  is  then 
cheaper. 

The  weave  of  this  piece  is  different.  You  have  a 
cotton  sample  of  the  same  weave.  Yes,  it  is  called 


REPAIRING  LINEN  183 

bird's-eye  pattern.  It  is  used  for  toweling  and  costs 
about  30  cents  per  yard,  24  inches  wide. 

Here  is  another  piece  used  also  for  toweling.  You 
all  know  its  name.  Huckaback  is  correct.  We  have 
also  cotton  huckaback,  and  some  huckaback  made  of 
half  linen  and  half  cotton.  It  is  woven  in  a  pattern 
which  absorbs  easily.  The  filling  thread  shows  more 
on  the  surface  than  the  warp  threads.  It  is  woven 
1 8  inches  and  wider,  and  costs  15  cents  up. 

Every  one  knows  this  one.  Our  tablecloths  and 
napkins  are  of  damask.  It  is  a  lovely  material  made 
in  beautiful  patterns.  Sometimes  it  is  all  linen  and 
sometimes  a  mixture.  There  is  also  cotton  damask 
for  table  napkins  and  cloths.  It  is  much  cheaper. 
The  cloths  are  woven  I  yard  wide  or  wider,  and  for 
damask  towels  from  16  to  36  inches.  One  can  spend  a 
great  deal  for  beautiful  damask  towels  and  napkins. 

This  plain  coarse  linen  is  called  butchers'  linen,  be- 
cause it  wears  very  well  and  butchers  sometimes  have 
their  aprons  made  of  it.  It  is  used,  too,  for  dress 
skirts,  and  is  very  satisfactory.  It  is  woven  from  27 
to  44  inches  in  width  and  costs  from  40  cents  to  $1.50 
per  yard. 

The  heavy  stiff  piece  is  a  linen  canvas  and  is  used  by 
tailors  for  the  interlining  of  cuffs  and  collars  of  coats. 
It  costs  25  cents  per  yard  and  is  27  to  36  inches  wide. 

Suppose  our  chart  is  24  X  20  inches.  Perhaps  a 
cardboard  or  cover  of  an  old  box  will  do  if  your  teacher 
has  nothing  else.  Put  two  holes  near  the  top  in  the 


i84  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 

middle  of  the  20  inches  side  and  run  a  cord  through 
for  hanging.  At  one  edge  down  one  side  place  the 
common  linen  materials  with  their  names  and  uses,  etc. 

Let  us  see  what  the  girls  have  brought.  Here  is  a 
bottle  of  linseed  oil.  Yes,  and  some  flax  seeds.  Jane 
has  brought  a  linen  collar.  Here  is  a  small  china  doll 
wrapped  as  a  mummy.  Marjorie's  grandmother  has 
sent  some  flax  which  she  grew  and  prepared  herself, 
and  a  piece  of  an  old  hand-woven  towel  which  she  made 
when  a  girl.  And  here  is  some  hand-spun  flax  !  Notice 
how  rough  it  looks.  We  have,  also,  some  cord  and 
twine  and  some  linen  thread.  Do  you  know  that 
Paterson,  New  Jersey,  where  Marjorie's  Cousin  Ann 
works  in  the  silk  mill,  is  also  a  great  center  for  linen 
thread  manufacture  ?  Thread  is  made  by  twisting 
fine  yarns  together.  The  twisting  makes  them  strong. 
They  are  then  dyed  or  bleached  white.  Much  of  our 
linen  thread  is  unbleached  in  color.  Why  ? 

Suppose  we  draw  a  picture  of  the  flax  stalk  and 
flower  on  our  chart  and  fasten  some  of  the  school- 
grown  flax  to  it.  All  the  other  things  can  be  arranged 
and  fastened  too,  by  punching  holes  in  the  cardboard 
and  tying  them  on  with  cord. 

What  an  interesting  story  it  makes.  Perhaps  the  chil- 
dren of  the  lower  classes  would  like  to  hear  the  story 
told  by  one  of  the  seventh  grade  girls  some  morning. 

Next  lesson  you  may  bring  any  table  linen  or  towels 
which  are  stained ;  and  we  shall  learn  how  to  remove 
the  stains. 


REPAIRING   LINEN  185 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS     - 

1.  Draw  a  picture  of  the  flax  plant,  and  color  the  flowers  with 
your  crayons. 

2.  Prepare  the  chart  telling  the  story  of  flax. 

3.  Look  up  the  story  of  how  linen  thread  is  prepared. 

4.  See  how  many  linen  materials  you  can  find  at  home. 

LESSON  7 

REMOVING  COMMON  STAINS  FROM  TABLE  LINEN 

Some  of  the  common  stains  one  finds  on  table  linen  are  coffee, 
tea,  fruit,  rust,  or  grass  stains.  Do  you  know  how  to  remove  them  ? 

When  should  stains  be  removed  ?  A  good  house- 
keeper always  looks  over  the  clothing  and  household 
linens  before  putting  them  to  soak.  Mrs.  Allen  says 
she  usually  does  this  on  Monday.  Do  you  know  why  ? 
She  spends  this  day  getting  ready  for  wash  day.  She 
bakes  and  prepares  certain  foods  for  her  family  for 
two  days ;  and  so  the  work  is  easier  on  Tuesday  and 
Wednesday,  when  she  washes  and  irons.  Fruit,  coffee, 
or  tea  stains  on  linen  should  be  removed  as  soon  after 
the  stain  appears  as  possible.  If  this  is  not  done,  then 
certainly  the  stains  must  be  removed  before  putting 
the  linen  into  the  tub.  White  clothes  are  boiled. 
What  will  this  do  to  the  stains  if  they  are  not 
removed  ? 

How  can  stains  be  removed  ?  Let  us  try  to  remove 
these  spots  one  at  a  time.  I  think  we  have  six  or  seven 
different  kinds  on  the  articles  which  have  been  brought 


186  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

to  school  to-day.  Your  teacher  will  show  you  how  to 
follow  the  directions. 

Coffee  and  tea  stains  are  the  most  common  on  table 
linen.  To  remove,  wash  in  lukewarm  water,  and  then 
dip  in  a  solution  of  washing  soda,  and  rinse  very  care- 
fully until  all  soda  is  removed.  (Washing  soda  solu- 
tion is  made  of  one  pound  of  washing  soda  to  one  gallon 
of  water.  This  can  be  kept  in  glass  jars  and  used 
when  occasion  demands.)  Tea  stains  are  easily  re- 
moved by  brushing  the  spot  with  glycerine  and  then 
washing  carefully  in  warm  water  to  remove  the  grease. 
Rubbing  the  spot  with  the  bowl  of  a  spoon  is  a  good 
way  to  put  on  the  glycerine. 

Fruit  stains  are  also  common.  An  easy  way  to 
remove  them  is  to  stretch  the  fabric,  if  it  is  white,  over 
a  bowl  and  pour  boiling  water  from  a  height,  through 
the  spot.  On  white  wool  or  silk,  lukewarm  water  is 
sometimes  all  that  is  necessary ;  or  lukewarm  water 
and  a  little  borax.  If  the  fruit  stains  are  on  colored 
garments,  they  are  difficult  to  remove  on  account  of 
removing  the  color  also.  If  the  article  is  of  much 
value,  consult  a  professional  dyer  if  possible.  It  is 
wise  to  experiment  on  the  material  on  another  part  of 
the  garment,  as  the  inside  of  a  hem  or  facing.  Make  a 
similar  spot  and  try  to  remove  with  different  methods. 
Often  one  can  discover  a  way,  through  experimenting. 

Rust  stains  often  appear  on  table  linen  or  white 
clothing.  To  remove,  wet  the  spot  and  apply  a  few 
drops  of  oxalic  acid  or  salts  of  lemon  or  cream  of  tartar 


REPAIRING  LINEN  187 

solution,  and  wash  thoroughly.  On  colored  or  wool 
goods  of  good  quality,  one  must  decide  whether  one 
prefers  the  stain  or  the  color  removed.  Water  and 
lemon  juice  will  generally  remove  the  spot,  but  may 
take  the  color  too.  Care  is  necessary  for  colors. 

Grass  stains  are  also  common.  If  the  stains  are 
fresh,  cold  water  will  usually  remove  them.  When 
on  white  goods  or  material  which  cannot  be  washed, 
alcohol  may  be  used.  When  color  will  stand  it,  dyed 
fabrics  which  are  grass-stained  can  be  washed  with 
water  and  a  little  ammonia,  followed  by  warm  soap 
solution  and  careful  rinsing. 

Here  is  a  garment  which  has  both  ink  and  blood 
stains  on  it.  Majorie  must  have  cut  her  finger.  Blood 
stains  when  fresh  are  easily  removed  with  lukewarm, 
not  hot  water,  and  a  little  ammonia.  When  on  colored 
silk,  wash  carefully  with  lukewarm  water  only.  The 
ink  stains  are  more  difficult,  because  the  composition 
of  inks  varies.  Wash  at  once  in  cold  water  ;  this  often 
removes  some  spots.  Sour  milk  or  several  rinsings  in 
sweet  milk  may  cause  the  spot  to  disappear.  Then 
wash  in  warm  water  and  soap  to  remove  the  grease. 
If  this  does  not  remove  it,  try  a  paste  made  of  starch, 
salt,  and  lemon  juice  except  for  colors.  If  this  will 
not,  try  Javelle  water.  This  can  be  obtained  at  a 
drug  store.  Wash  the  spot  in  the  Javelle  water,  but 
rinse  very  quickly  and  carefully.  Repeat  until  the 
spot  disappears.  These  directions  are  for  white  ma- 
terials only. 


188  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 

How  many  would  like  to  try  to  remove  some  spots 
at  home,  before  next  lesson  ?  You  may  report  your 
successes  or  failures,  and  we  shall  try  to  learn  the 
reasons  for  them.  Next  lesson  we  shall  learn  to  wash 
and  iron  this  table  linen.  It  will  be  well  to  keep  it  at 
school  until  next  lesson. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  How  many  spots  have  you  been  able  to  remove?     Tell  of 
your  successes  or  failures. 

2.  See  if  mother  or  grandmother  has  any  better  recipes  than 
you  have  learned  for  spots. 

LESSON  8 

LEARNING  TO  WASH  AND  IRON  TABLE  LINEN  OR  BED  LINEN 

We  have  studied  many  things  about  cleanliness,  and  we  all 
know  how  much  cleanliness  of  clothing  and  household  linen  adds 
to  our  comfort.  We  have  learned  that  sometimes  we  can  wear  our 
underclothes  without  ironing  and  that  towels  can  be  washed  and 
dried  and  will  smell  sweet  and  clean  even  if  not  ironed.  Table 
linen,  though,  must  be  washed  and  boiled  and  ironed  to  look  well. 
Our  lesson  to-day  is  about  how  to  do  this. 

The  linen,  as  well  as  the  cotton,  are,  as  you  know, 
vegetable  fibers.  They  are  strong  and  able  to  resist 
heat  and  the  friction  from  rubbing.  They  have  re- 
sistance for  chemicals  also.  So  cotton  and  linen  may 
be  boiled,  starched,  and  ironed  with  hot  irons  because 
the  fibers  are  strong.  They  may  also  be  treated  with 
acids  of  a  dilute  nature  when  necessary  to  remove  spots, 


REPAIRING  LINEN 


189 


as  we  have  learned.  For  the  usual  grease  spots  on  the 
family  tablecloths,  soak  the  cloth  in  soda  water  to 
remove  grease  (one  cup  of  soda  —  the  dissolved  solu- 
tion —  to  a  pail  of  water,  see  page  186). 

The  processes  for  washing  and  ironing.  If  the 
stains  have  been  removed  from  the  table  linen,  it  can 
then  be  soaked.  Soak- 
ing helps  to  loosen  the 
dirt  when  soap  is  added 
before  the  soaking.  It 
is  then  unnecessary  to 
rub  them  as  much,  and 
so  materials  are  saved 
from  wear.  These  are 
the  processes  for  washing 


FIG.  no.  —  Mrs.  Stark  washing  out  of  doors  on  a  warm  day.     This  is  the  old 
way.     She  has  just  bought  a  washing  machine. 

and  ironing :  soaking,  washing,  rinsing,  boiling,  rinsing, 
bluing,  starching,  hanging,  drying,  sprinkling,  pulling, 
folding,  ironing. 


i9o  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

1.  Soaking.     Soak  the  table  or  bed  linens  about  i\  hours  in 
cold  or  lukewarm  water.     Soap  is  really  not  necessary  as  the  linen 
is  not  very  dirty.     All  stains  should  have  been  previously  removed. 

2.  Washing.     Wash  with  soap  on  both  sides,  rubbing  on  clothes 
board  or  in  washing  machine.     Use  hot  water. 

3.  Rinsing.     Rinse  and  soap  again  to  be  placed  in  the  boiler. 
The  dirt  is  carried  away  by  this  rinsing. 

4.  Boiling.     Put  the  soaped  articles  in  clear  cold  water.     Boil 
briskly  for  five  minutes.     Add  enough  soap  to  keep  a  suds  while 
boiling ;  save  small  pieces  for  this  purpose.     Stir  clothes  and  press 
with  a  stick.     Remove  from  boiler,  after  boiling  actively  for  five 
minutes.     Put  in  clean  hot  water,  then  in  cold.     Rinse  once  or 
twice  again  thoroughly  before  bluing. 

5.  Bluing.     Make  the  blue  water  from  some  good  blue.     Do  not 
make  it  too  deep.     Test  on  a  small  doily.      Stir  the  blue  before 
each  article  is  dipped,  so  it  may  not  appear  streaked  on  the  clothes. 
If  articles  are  very  yellow  it  may  be  necessary  to  let  them  stand  in 
the  blue  for  a  little  while.     If  not  yellow,  dip  two  or  three  times. 

The  next  process  is  starching ;   but  it  is  not  as  a  rule  necessary 
to  starch  napkins,  tablecloths,  or  bed  linens. 

6.  Hanging.     Hang   very   straight    after   stretching.     Do   not 
pin  at  corners.     Hang  £  of  the  napkin  or  tablecloth  over  the  line. 

7.  Sprinkling.     Table  linen  must  be  sprinkled  evenly.     Some- 
times it  can  be  taken  from  the  line  when  half  dry,  and  the  process 
of  sprinkling  omitted. 

8.  Ironing.     Linen  should  be  ironed  damp  and  until  dry.     This 
makes  the  pattern  stand  out  and  gives  a  shine  and  gloss  to  the 
linen.     This  takes  the  place  of  starch. 

9.  Folding.     Iron  napkins  partly  dry  on  wrong  side;   then  turn 
to  right  side,  and  iron  dry.     Fold  edges  evenly.     In  the  lengthwise 
fold  do  not  fold  quite  to  end,  as  in  the  final  fold  the  napkin,  hand- 
kerchief, tablecloth,  or  sheets  will  appear  uneven   at   the  edges. 
Fold  the  tablecloth,  or  napkins  with  selvedges  together.     Table- 
cloths may  be  folded  with  three,  or  four,  long  creases. 


REPAIRING  LINEN  191 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Try  to  wash  and  iron  the  napkins  for  mother. 

2.  Try  to  wash  and  iron  some  towels  or  pillowcases.       Is  the 
process  different  ? 

3.  Why  is  it  unnecessary  to  iron  some  clothes  if  one  is  very 
busy.     Can  you  give  a  good  reason  why  it  is  hygienic  not  to  iron 
them. 

LESSON     9 

THE  STORY  OF  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  LINEN  YARN  INTO  CLOTH 

To-day  we  are  going  to  study  again  about  our  linen  table- 
cloths and  napkins,  and  learn  how  the  flax  fiber  is  made  into  cloth 
after  it  has  been  cleaned  at  the  scutching  mill. 

Combing  and  spinning  flax.  Uncle  John  divided 
his  story  in  two  parts,  and  told  the  Pleasant  Valley 
Girls'  League  about  the  manufacture  of  flax  as  well  as 
about  its  growth.  The  scutched  flax  is  delivered  to 
the  manufacturer.  He  must  first  spin  the  flax  into 
yarn  before  it  can  be  woven  into  cloth.  The  flax 
fibers  measure  from  20  to  35  inches  in  length.  How 
are  they  to  be  made  into  one  continuous  piece  for  spin- 
ning ?  The  pictures  (Figs.  112  and  113)  will  give  a  very 
good  idea.  Long  ago  grandmother  or  great-grandmother 
spun  the  yarn  for  the  linen  sheets  on  the  flax  wheel. 
Marjorie's  grandmother  sent  her  old  flax  wheel  to  school 
for  the  girls  to  see.  The  flax  is  here  on  the  distaff. 
If  you  haven't  a  wheel  at  your  school,  look  at  the 
picture  (Fig.  in).  The  woman  is  holding  the  flax 
fibers  which  come  from  the  distaff;  and,  as  her  foot 


192 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


turns  the  wheel  and  the  flax  in  her  fingers  is  fed  to  the 
spindle,  it  is  twisted.  Spinning  of  flax  is  a  very  old 
invention.  It  was  once  done  with  just  a  spindle  like  the 
woman  has  in  the  picture  on  page  71  (Fig.  44).  This 
is  the  secret  of  how  flax  spinning  is  done  to-day.  The 
flax  is  opened  at  the  mill  and  graded  according  to  color 

and  quality.  It  is 
then  combed.  This 
process  is  called  hack- 
ling (Fig.  112).  It  is 
sometimes  done  by 
hand,  and  the  worker 
draws  the  flax  over 
the  iron  teeth  of  a 
comb.  The  straight- 
ened fibers  are  left 
and  are  called  line ; 
and  the  combed-out 
fibers  are  called  tow. 
This  first  combing 
process  is  sometimes 
called  roughing  in- 
stead of  hackling.  The  line  is  then  combed  again  in 
a  big  machine  which  removes  any  loose  tow.  Tow  is 
often  put  in  a  carding  machine  and  made  into  yarn 
for  coarser  purposes  ;  but  the  long  straight  line  is  used 
for  the  better  materials.  The  line,  after  it  is  hackled, 
is  placed  on  a  spread  board  ;  and  the  process  is  called 
spreading.  You  can  see  in  the  picture  (Fig.  113)  that 


FIG.  in.  —  The  flax  wheel. 


REPAIRING  LINEN 


193 


the  bundles  of  flax  yarn  are  spread  and  overlapped  as 
they  enter  the  machine.  Now  you  know  how  the  yarn 
begins  to  be  made  of  continuous  length.  The  flax 
comes  from  this  machine  in  a  rope  and  is  something 
like  the  cotton  rope  or  roving  as  it  leaves  the  carding 
machine ;  but  flax  is  brown  and  stiff,  not  so  soft  as 


Courtesy  of  York  St.  MWs,  Belfast 
FIG.  112. —  Flax  hackling  done  by  machine. 

cotton.  Can  you  find  in  the  picture  (Fig.  113)  the  cans 
ready  to  receive  the  flax  rovings  as  they  come  from  the 
spreading  machine  ?  They  are  at  the  back  of  the 
machine.  The  rovings  are  then  ready  to  be  wound  on 
spools  and  to  be  twisted  to  make  them  strong.  This 
is  done  in  the  same  way  as  the  cotton.  The  spools 
are  put  in  at  the  top  of  the  machine ;  they  hold  the 


i94  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

rovings.  The  rovings  pass  over  rollers  which  draw 
out  and  twist  and  wind  the  yarn  on  the  spools  below. 
This  is  called  spinning.  (Fig.  46  shows  the  cotton 
spinning  machines.)  Flax  spinning  is  somewhat  like 
this.  Perhaps  some  day  you  may  be  able  to  visit  a 
flax  mill  and  see  the  spinning  frames,  as  the  machines 


Courtesy  of  York  St.  Mills,  Belfast. 
FIG.  113. —  Spreading  flax  to  make  it  a  continuous  line. 

are  called,  at  work.  Uncle  John  says  that  yarns  are 
made  of  coarse  or  of  very  fine  grade,  according  to  the 
fineness  of  cloth  desired.  Linen  thread  is  made  by 
twisting  together  two  or  three  of  the  linen  yarns.  Look 
at  the  linen  thread  and  see  if  you  can  discover  two  or 
three. 

Weaving  linen.     After  the  threads  of  flax  have  been 
spun,  they  are  wound  on  spools ;  and  the  spools  are 


REPAIRING  LINEN  195 

put  in  the  big  spool  holder  or  skarn  in  order  to  prepare 
the  roll  of  warp  threads  for  the  loom.  Do  you  remem- 
ber how  the  cotton  warp  was  prepared  and  how  the 
weaving  was  done  ?  Uncle  John  says  that  in  Scotland 
to-day  much  of  the  very  fine  linen  is  woven  by  hand  ; 
but  we  know  that  linen  weaving  by  machinery  has 
been  perfected  there  and  that  very  beautiful  materials 
are  produced  on  the  modern  looms  with  the  Jacquard 
harness  as  it  is  called,  to  produce  the  wonderful  designs. 
Fine  table  damask  is  as  beautiful  as  fine  silk.  The 
French,  perhaps,  make  the  most  beautiful  designs  for 
table  linen,  and  the  Scotch  and  Irish  come  next.  (See 
page  124  for  Jacquard  loom.) 

Bleaching  linen  cloth.  Uncle  John  says  there  are 
many  things  to  be  done  to  the  linen  cloth  after  it  is 
woven.  If  we  were  to  go  to  Ireland,  we  might  ride  for 
miles  and  see  the  woven  linen  cloth  spread  on  the  grass 
in  great  lengths.  This  is  called  crofting  or  grass  bleach- 
ing. Do  you  remember  how  we  said  grandmother 
used  to  bleach  her  linen  ?  Did  she  use  a  chemical  ? 
What  did  the  sour  milk  which  she  used  do  to  her  linen  ? 
What  did  the  oxygen  do  ?  Chemicals  are  sometimes 
used  to-day  in  the  early  stages  before  the  linen  is  spread 
on  the  grass.  Uncle  John  says  that  from  20-25  Per  cent, 
or  about  J,  of  the  weight  of  the  linen  is  lost  in  bleaching. 
Linen  is  sometimes  bleached  in  the  thread,  but  more 
often  after  it  is  woven. 

Finishing  linen  cloth  for  shipping.  After  linen  cloth 
has  been  bleached,  Uncle  John  says  it  is  ready  to  be 


196  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 

finished  for  shipping  to  the  merchants.  It  is  washed 
by  passing  the  cloth  through  a  machine  called  a  rub- 
board.  Then  it  is  dried  and  passed  through  a  beetling 
machine.  This  makes  the  fibers  stand  out.  Then 
it  is  pressed  between  rollers  to  give  it  a  smooth  surface. 
Cotton  is  sometimes  finished  by  means  of  these  processes 
to  look  like  linen  and  be  sold  for  linen.  When  this  cotton 
material  is  washed,  the  finishing  wears  off  and  it  does 
not  look  like  linen.  Is  such  material  cheaper  or  more 
expensive  ?  Is  it  honest  to  sell  cotton  for  linen,  and 
to  cheat  the  buyer  ?  It  is  all  right  if  the  goods  are 
labeled.  Next  lesson  we  shall  talk  about  the  buying 
of  household  linens.  One  must  know  many  things  in 
order  to  purchase  wisely.  Do  you  see  how  a  knowledge 
of  how  things  are  made  will  help  you,  too  ? 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Write  a  story  of  two  hundred  words  telling  how  flax  is  made 
into  cloth. 

2.  Have  an  exhibit  of  articles  brought  from    home,  showing 
different  patterns  of  linen  cloth. 

3.  Perhaps  there  may  be  a  cord  factory  near  for  you  to  visit. 
Tow  is  sometimes  used  in  making  twine.     Study  how  cord  is  made. 

LESSON  10 

A  TALK  ABOUT  BUYING  LINENS 

Have  you  ever  gone  shopping  with  mother  ?  There  are  some 
important  things  to  remember  when  buying  table  linen  or  other 
household  materials.  What  are  they  ? 


REPAIRING  LINEN  197 

Marjorie  goes  with  her  mother  once  a  year  to  buy 
household  linens.  This  is  usually  in  January,  when 
the  big  shop  in  town  has  a  sale.  Last  January, 
when  Marjorie's  mother  was  ill,  they  had  to  order  by 
mail.  The  catalogue  from  the  shop  described  fully, 
and  Mrs.  Allen  knew  exactly  what  to  ask  for ;  so  they 
managed  without  going  to  town.  This  can  be  done 
if  one  knows  how  and  if  the  store  is  a  reliable  one. 
These  are  some  of  the  things  Mrs.  Allen  is  teaching 
Marjorie.  Some  day  she  will  wish  to  buy  for  her  own 
home ;  or,  if  her  mother  is  ill  again,  she  can  go  alone. 
It  is  always  more  satisfactory  to  see  what  one  is 
buying. 

Here  are  some  of  the  points  to  be  noticed  in  buying : 
i.  The  first  important  thing  to  remember  is  to  buy 
only  what  one  needs.  Know  the  shops  one  patronizes, 
if  possible,  and  go  or  send  to  only  reliable  firms.  The 
reliable  places  are  the  cheapest  in  the  end.  One  learns, 
too,  that  some  things  are  better  at  one  shop  and  some 
at  another.  Reliable  stores  often  have  sales,  but  as 
a  rule  bargains  are  not  cheap.  Remember  nothing  is 
ever  given  away. 

2.  It  is  wise  and  cheaper  to  purchase  some  new 
household  linen  once  each  year  than  to  wait  and  have 
it  all  wear  out  at  once. 

3.  Cost  is  a  good  guide.     Linen  is  expensive.     If 
too  cheap,  beware. 

4.  Linen   is   sometimes   cheapened   or   adulterated 
with  cotton.     If  the  store  keeper  sells  it  for  union,  it 


198  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

is  honest ;  if  he  calls  it  linen,  and  you  pay  linen  price, 
it  is  dishonest.  Ravel  and  untwist  the  ends  of  the 
warp  and  filling  thread.  Cotton  will  be  fuzzy,  linen 
should  be  long  and  lustrous.  Round  threads  of  linen 
are  best.  The  linen  threads  appear  pointed  at  the  ends 
when  separated.  The  all  linens  made  from  the  tow 
(you  have  learned  what  that  is)  are  cheaper  than  those 
made  from  the  line.  Why  ?  They  will  not  last  quite 
so  well. 

Wet  the  linen.  Water  spreads  more  rapidly  on 
linen  than  on  cotton.  An  old-fashioned  test  was  to 
moisten  with  the  finger.  If  you  have  a  sample  of 
linen  at  home  for  testing,  use  a  drop  of  olive  oil.  The 
oil  makes  the  linen  fibers  more  translucent  than  the 
cotton.  Why  ? 

5.  Another  way  to  know.     Linen  feels  colder  than 
cotton  ;  also  it  feels  heavier  when  crushed  in  the  hand. 

6.  Notice   the   finish.     Is   it   full  of  starch  which 
can  be  picked  off  ?     If  so,  after  the  washing  you  will 
have  a  loosely  woven  material  without  starch.     It  is 
better  to  buy  a  softer  linen  than  one  filled  stiff  with 
starch  which  will  crack. 

7.  Damask  by  the  yard  is  slightly  cheaper  than 
by  the  cloth.     One  dollar  a  yard  is  a  fair  price.     Table 
cloths  from  2 J  to  3  yards  are  a  good  size  for  a  family  of 
six.     A  cloth  wears  about  as  long  as  i  J  or  2  dozen  nap- 
kins.    The  price  of  one  dozen  napkins  about  equals 
the   cost  of  a  cloth.     Napkins   come   in  three   sizes : 
|,  17-22  inches;  f,  23-27  inches;  £,  29-31  inches. 


REPAIRING  LINEN  199 

8.  Scotch,   French,  and   Irish  linens  are  the  best 
for  quality,  beauty,  and  variety  of  patterns.     German 
damask  is  good  ;  but  German  patterns  are  perhaps  the 
least   attractive.     Unbleached   linen   will   wear   much 
longer,  is  less  expensive,  and  is  bought  by  many  house- 
wives and  bleached  as  used. 

9.  For  family  towels  huckaback  is  the  most  ser- 
viceable, although  damask  is  used  a  great  deal.     Linen 
towels  vary  in  price  from  $3.00  a  dozen  up,  according 
to  size  and  quality.     Dish  towels  of  linen  crash  are 
very  serviceable. 

10.  The  microscope  is  the  only  sure  test  for  distin- 
guishing cotton  and  linen  fibers. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Ask  mother  if  she  knows  any  other  methods  of  judging  good 
linen. 

2.  When  you  go  to  town,  price  some  tablecloths  and  napkins. 
How  much  will  a  good  cloth  and  napkins  cost  ? 

REVIEW    PROBLEMS 

I.  Plan  a  systematic  way  of  looking  over  your   clothing   and 
keeping  it  in  repair. 

11.  How  do  you  store  your  winter  clothing  for  protection  during 
summer  ?     Your  summer  clothes  during  winter  ? 

III.  How  does  your  knowledge  of  buying   linens   help  you  in 
going  shopping  with  mother  ? 


CHAPTER  V 

THE  PLEASANT  VALLEY  GIRLS  LEARN  TO  MAKE 
MORE  GARMENTS 

Would  you  like  to  learn  to  make  some  useful  gar- 
ments ?  Perhaps,  then,  you  can  help  with  the  family 
sewing  and  make  some  useful  garments  for  your  sister 
or  mother.  Some  day  you  may  wish  to  be  a  seam- 
stress or  a  dressmaker  and  to  earn  money  in  that  way. 
Barbara  Oakes  says  she  expects  to  do  so.  Now  is 
the  time  to  begin  to  learn  how,  and  later  perhaps  you 
may  go  to  a  dressmaking  school. 

Barbara  Oakes  and  some  of  the  League  girls  have  a 
class  which  meets  once  a  week  for  instruction  in  gym- 
nastics and  fancy  dancing.  In  the  spring  or  early 
summer  they  expect  to  give  a  dance  outdoors.  A 
pageant  will  be  prepared  by  some  of  the  members  of 
the  Mothers'  Club ;  and  the  dance  is  part  of  that 
pageant. 

The  pageant  will  picture  the  history  of  Pleasant 
Valley.  The  Mothers'  Club  is  planning  to  have  all  the 
people  who  will,  take  part.  Have  you  ever  seen  a 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  201 

pageant  ?  It  is  a  pleasant  way  to  learn  history  and  to 
celebrate  an  interesting  local  event.  Pageants  have 
been  held  in  many  parts  of  the  eastern  and  western 
states  ;  and  in  England  there  have  been  many  pageants. 
Perhaps  you  can  plan  a  pageant  for  your  town.  While 
the  girls  are  practicing  their  dancing  and  gymnastics, 
bloomers  will  be  very  useful,  and  the  girls  have  decided 
to  learn  to  make  them.  Would  you  like  to  learn  how  ? 
The  bloomers  will  be  useful  for  school  gymnastics,  too. 
You  can  also  make  a  middy  blouse  and  a  skirt  to  wear 
with  them,  so  as  to  have  the  whole  outfit. 

LESSON  i 

THE    PATTERN    OF    THE    BLOOMERS 

Let  us  study  the  pattern  which  your  teacher  has  brought  to 
school.  You  have  learned  to  read  patterns.  You  must  also 
calculate  how  much  material  to  order,  and  what  kind. 

Let  us  open  the  pattern  and  study  its  parts.  Yes, 
the  long  narrow  strips  are  for  the  belt ;  some  are  for 
the  placket  facings.  Notice  if  the  dots  indicate  where 
these  are  to  be  placed  :  on  a  fold  of  material  or  length- 
wise of  the  cloth.  There  is  one  other  piece.  It  is  the 
leg  ;  so  two  must  be  cut.  Is  it  possible  to  cut  two  at  the 
same  time  ?  How,  then,  should  the  material  be  folded  ? 
Notice  the  perforations.  They  will  help  us  to  know 
which  part  of  the  pattern  is  to  be  placed  on  the  warp 
of  the  cloth.  How  wide  is  the  width  of  the  pattern  at 
the  widest  part  ?  If  it  is  34  inches,  then  it  will  be  easy 


202  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

to  calculate  how  many  lengths  to  buy  of  cloth  36  inches 
wide.  Measure  the  length  of  the  pattern  and  see  if  it  is 
long  enough  for  you  to  allow  for  fullness  at  the  knee  so 
that  there  is  some  to  blouse  over.  If  not,  how  will  you 
add  to  the  pattern  ?  This  extra  length  must  be 
allowed  in  ordering  the  material.  Can 
you  tell  how  much  cloth  to  order  ?  See 
if  you  can  calculate. 

What  kind  of  material  will  you  use  ? 
Some  of  the  Pleasant  Valley  girls  wish 
wool  material  because  it  will  be  warmer 
for  winter  wear.  Dark  blue  or  black 
serge  is  very  durable,  is  washable  also, 
and  will  shed  the  dust.  Here  are  some 
samples.  Sateen  is  also  a  durable  cotton 
material,  but  it  is  not  so  warm.  It  is 
easier  for  girls  to  handle  in  making  than 
wool.  Bloomers  can  also  be  made  from 
gingham,  percale,  galatea,  or  other  cotton 
FIG.  n4.  —  The  cloth.  Which  will  you  choose  ?  Shall  we 

mid°dmyerbioused  not  write  for  some  samples  of  these  dif- 
ferent materials  ?  The  Pleasant  Valley 
girls  wrote  and  received  them  in  a  few  days.  Perhaps 
you  too  are  learning  how  to  order  by  mail  when  you 
are  too  far  away  from  town  to  go  shopping.  Try  to 
make  all  the  calculations  to-day  and  to  learn  all  about 
the  pattern.  Pin  the  pieces  of  the  pattern  together ; 
also  try  to  hold  them  up  to  your  figure  or  the  girl 
next  to  you.  It  helps  one  to  learn  where  the  parts  lie 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  203 

on  the  body  and  to  locate  where  the  seams  will  fall. 
The  Pleasant  Valley  girls  worked  in  pairs  and  helped 
each  other  with  the  cutting,  fitting,  and  planning. 
This  is  a  good  way  when  each  girl  does  her  part. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Open  the  pattern  for  the  bloomers.     Notice  the  parts,  also 
the  perforations  and  directions. 

2.  Calculate  how  much  cloth  will  be  necessary  for  a  pair  of 
bloomers  for  yourself. 

3.  Bring  samples  of  materials  suitable  for  bloomers. 

LESSON  2 

THE  STORY  OF  WHERE  WOOL  IS  GROWN 

While  you  are  waiting  for  the  samples  of  wool  serges,  galatea, 
and  sateen,  let  us  study  about  wool.  Wool  is  the  most  important 
textile  fiber.  All  girls  should  know  about  it,  whether  you  will  use 
wool  or  cotton  for  your  bloomers. 

'  In  the  picture  (Fig.  115)  you  will  see  a  very  peaceful 
scene.  The  sheep  are  grazing  and  storing  up  food  and 
energy  to  be  converted  into  food  for  us  to  eat  and  cloth- 
ing for  us  to  wear.  Mr.  Allen  has  over  a  hundred  sheep 
on  his  farm.  How  grateful  we  should  be  to  the  patient 
sheep.  This  animal  fiber  called  wool  is  a  variety  of 
hair,  and  varies  in  fineness.  The  coarser  varieties 
are  called  hair.  Hair  is  obtained  from  the  angora  goat, 
the  camel,  and  alpaca.  Perhaps  your  teacher  has  a 
microscope.  Look  at  the  fibers  under  the  glass.  You 
can  see  how  hair  differs  from  wool.  There  are  tiny 


204 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


serrations  on  the  wool  surface  which  look  like  the  scales 
of  a  pine  cone,  lapping  one  over  the  other.  This  is  a 
wonderful  thing  to  see  ;  for  it  is  on  account  of  these 
tiny  serrations  which  close  up  when  in  hot  water  that 
one  must  be  so  careful  about  laundering  woolens. 


115. — These  peaceful  looking  sheep  provide  our 


Wool  looks  wavy  in  length.     It  is  fine  and  has  a  luster ; 
while  hair  has  a  smooth  surface  and  lies  straight. 

Have  you  ever  seen  sheep  sheared  of  their  wool  ? 
Perhaps  it  is  done  on  your  farm.  Sheep  are  usually 
sheared  only  once  a  year,  in  April  or  May.  If  there 
are  only  a  few  sheep,  it  is  easy  to  use  the  hand  shears 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  205 

like  those  in  the  picture 
(Fig.  117);  but  where  there 
are  many  sheep,  the  ma- 
chine clippers  must  be 
used.  These  clipping  ma- 
chines can  be  run  by  hand 
or  other  power.  They 
shear  close  and  save  wool. 
Notice  the  machine  which 
the  man  in  the  picture 
(Fig.  118)  is  using;  it  is 
just  like  the  one  Mr.  Allen  FlG-  ' l6  ~  Wo01  fibers  masnjfied- 
uses.  Frank  or  John  sometimes  helps.  The  coating 
of  wool  from  one  sheep  is  called  a  fleece.  On  the  large 
sheep  ranches  of  the  West  the  fleeces  are  tied 
into  bundles,  and  these  bundles  are  put  in 
sacks  holding  about  40x3  pounds  to  be  shipped 
to  certain  wool-purchasing  centers  where  the 
buyers  examine  the  wool  and  buy  in  quantities. 
What  do  you  know  about  the  sheep  indus- 
try ?  Our  sheep  industry  is  very  important. 
The  western  states,  Montana,  Idaho,  Wyom- 
ing, and  Oregon,  support  about  38  million 
sheep.  That  is  a  large  family  to  shear  and 
FIG.  117.—  feed. 

shears*1"1      Other   countries   grow  sheep   for  clothing 
wools,  too.     Australia,  England,  South  Africa, 
South  America,   Spain,   and  Germany  all  give  much 
attention  to  sheep  raising. 


206 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


This  industry  is  very  old.  We  read  in  the  Bible 
that  wool  was  used  long  ago  and  that  King  David  of 
Israel  Wrote  psalms  as  he  tended  his  sheep  on  the  hill- 


Courtesy  of  Chicago  Flexible  Shaft  Co. 
FIG.  1 1 8.  —  Sheep  shearing  by  machinery. 

side.  Abel,  the  brother  of  Cain,  was  a  keeper  of  sheep. 
Can  you  find  these  stories  in  the  Bible  ?  Writers  of 
many  ages  tell  about  wool  —  Pliny,  Homer,  and  Virgil. 
Alexander  too,  when  he  journeyed  to  India  in  early 
days,  saw  beautiful  woolen  shawls  being  made. 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  207 

Some  sheep  give  a  better  quality  of  wool  than  others. 
The  Merino  wool  is  the  very  finest.  The  camel 
furnishes  a  beautiful  soft  fiber.  Then,  there  is  the 
angora  goat  of  Asia  Minor,  which  provides  us  with 
mohair.  This  is  a  lovely  soft  fiber  resembling  silk. 
Can  you  find  this  country  on  your  map  ?  Look  for 
Peru  and  for  Chili.  The  sheep  there  furnish  the  alpaca 
and  llama  wools. 

Some  wool  fibers  are  long,  and  some  are  quite  short. 
The  length  of  fiber,  or  staple  as  it  is  called,  varies.  An 
average  length  is  7  or  8  inches.  How  does  this  compare 
with  the  silk  or  linen  fiber  ?  Is  it  as  long  as  cotton  ? 
The  .fibers  also  vary  in  strength  and  luster,  fineness, 
softness,  and  elasticity.  What  do  these  words  mean? 
Can  you  find  them  in  your  dictionary  ?  The  tiny 
serrations  on  the  wool  fiber  cannot  be  seen  with  the 
naked  eye.  They  are,  however,  very  important ;  for 
it  is  this  characteristic  of  wool  which  makes  it  felt,  and, 
because  these  tiny  serrations  interlock,  it  is  possible 
to  make  the  fine  texture  of  broadcloth  and  other  fine 
wool  materials.  We  shall  study  how  later.  Do  you 
think  we  wish  the  tiny  serrations  to  interlock  when  we 
wash  woolen  articles  ?  If  they  do,  what  will  happen  to 
the  garment  ?  Do  you  know  how  this  can  be  pre- 
vented ?  If  you  have  sheep  on  your  farm  or  near,  will 
you  bring  some  of  the  wool  to  school.  It  is  dirty. 
Perhaps  you  can  wash  it  at  school,  and  see  how  soft 
and  fine  and  lustrous  it  is.  You  may  also  be  able 
to  dye  some.  The  center  of  the  wool  fiber  is  rather 


208  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

porous,  and  this  enables  the  fiber  to  take  up  dye 
easily. 

The  wool  from  some  sheep  farms  varies  on  account 
of  the  differences  in  climate,  soil,  and  breed  of  sheep. 
The  sheep  of  southern  England  produce  short  and  fine 
wool ;  while  in  the  north,  where  it  is  colder,  the  wool  is 
stronger  and  coarser.  Wools  from  Saxony  and  Silesia 
are  very  fine.  The  English  and  Australian  wools  are  of 
several  qualities.  The  long  wools  come  from  Lincoln 
and  Leicestershire,  and  the  shorter  from  Suffolk  and 
Shropshire.  Can  you  find  these  places  on  your  map  of 
England  ?  The  long  coarse  wools  are  used  for  carpets 
and  for  knitting,  because  they  are  so  strong.  The  short 
wools  used  for  clothing  are  about  3  to  4  inches  in  length. 
The  long  wools,  about  10  inches  in  length,  are  called 
combing  wools  and  are  used  for  materials  which  are 
loosely  woven  like  serges,  homespuns,  and  others. 

Next  lesson  we  shall  study  our  samples  of  woolen 
materials.  Bring  all  the  scraps  of  different  kinds  which 
you  can  contribute.  Put  them  in  the  surprise  box. 
We  shall  learn  the  names  of  the  most  common  ones. 
Will  you  make  a  sample  book  for  these  too  ? 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Find  on  the  map  the  principal  countries  producing  wool. 

2.  If  your  teacher  has  a  microscope,  compare  wool  and  hair. 
How  do  they  differ  ? 

3.  Why  do  woolen  garments  shrink  when  washed  in  hot  water  ? 

4.  Why  is  wool  the  most  important  fiber  of  commerce  ? 

5.  Tell  some  of  the  uses  of  long  coarse  wools ;  of  the  finer  wools. 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  209 

LESSON  3 

SOME  OF  THE  MOST  COMMON  MATERIALS  MADE  FROM  WOOL 

There  are  many  materials  made  from  wool.  Let  us  learn  to-day 
about  those  which  are  used  most  commonly. 

Perhaps  some  one  in  the  class  will  sort  the  pieces  in  the 
surprise  box.  Mollie  Stark  sorted  those  at  Pleasant 
Valley  School.  Do  not  sort  according  to  color,  but  place 
them  in  three  piles.  We  have  the  thick,  close  materials, 
which  are  heavy  and  firm.  Then  we  have  the  thin,  sheer 
ones.  In  the  third  pile,  place  the  medium  weight  ones 
which  look  strong  and  are  wiry  but  not  so  closely  woven 
and  firm  as  those  in  the  first  pile.  Shall  we  learn  about 
some  of  each  kind  ? 

Let  us  see  what  we  have  in  the  third  pile  of  wiry, 
more  loosely  woven  materials.  First  we  have  the  serges. 
Here  are  several  pieces.  Some  are  fine  with  the  twilled 
weave,  and  others  are  twilled  but  the  weave  is  coarser. 
They  are  very  serviceable  and  are  suitable  for  bloomers, 
or  for  dress  fabrics.  Here  is  a  sample  of  a  plaid  serge. 
Marjorie  Allen  had  such  a  dress  last  winter.  It  is  pos- 
sible to  buy  plain  colors  too.  Serges  are  woven  quite 
wide,  from  42  to  54  inches,  and  cost  from  75  cents  to 
#3  per  yard.  Cheviots  are  very  similar  to  serges  in 
price  and  width,  but  are  somewhat  heavier  in  appear- 
ance. The  surface  of  some  is  rather  rougher  than  serge, 
although  there  are  smooth  cheviots  too.  Have  some 
samples  of  serges  been  sent  from  the  store  ?  You 


210  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

must  examine  these,  too,  to  see  if  you  will  select  one  for 
your  bloomers. 

This  coarse  one  in  the  same  pile  is  a  homespun,  and 
this  is  a  tweed.  They  are  both  rough,  wiry,  loosely 
woven,  and  made  of  rather  coarse  yarn.  They  are 
rather  open  in  texture  and  were  both  in  olden  times  spun 
and  woven  by  hand,  but  are  now  made  by  machinery. 
Tweed  gets  its  name  from  a  place  in  Scotland. 
These  materials  are  very  serviceable,  especially  for 
rough  wear  for  suitings,  coats,  or  dress  goods.  The 
color  or  pattern  is  not  always  clearly  defined,  because 
the  yarn  of  which  it  is  woven  is  mixed  in  color.  Home- 
spuns are  somewhat  cheaper  than  tweeds.  They  cost 
from  $i  to  $3  per  yard,  and  are  woven  from  42  to  50  inches 
wide.  Tweeds  are  a  little  wider,  52  to  54  inches,  and 
cost  from  $2  to  $4  per  yard. 

There  are  four  samples  in  this  pile,  not  quite  so  heavy. 
They  are  cashmere,  challie,  albatross,  and  henrietta. 
Have  you  ever  heard  these  names  before  ?  They  are 
all  common  wool  materials.  They  are  often  used  for 
girls'  school  dresses,  for  wrappers,  and  for  baby  wear. 
They  are  all  softer  than  serges.  Cashmere  and  hen- 
rietta resemble  each  other.  They  both  have  a  twilled 
weave.  Henrietta  was  originally  woven  with  a  silk 
warp.  One  can  buy  silk  warp  henrietta  to-day. 
Grandmother  Stark  has  one.  Is  there  a  sample  in  your 
box  ?  Cashmere  is  also  soft,  and  the  finer  qualities 
are  made  from  hair  of  the  cashmere  goat.  Cashmere 
is  woven  36  to  45  inches  in  width  and  can  be  bought 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  211 

for  from  75  cents  to  $1.25  per  yard.  Henrietta  is  about 
the  same  width  and  price,  except  when  it  has  silk  warp. 
Then  it  is  more  expensive. 

Challie  and  albatross  are  about  the  same  weight.  I 
am  sure  you  have  all  had  a  pretty  challie  dress  sometime. 
Challies  are  figured ;  -  sometimes  the  pattern  is  woven 
in  and  sometimes  printed.  It  is  made  sometimes  of  a 
mixture  of  cotton  and  wool,  or  silk  and  wool ;  but  now 
challies  can  be  bought  iri  all  cotton  too  as  well  as  in  all 
wool.  They  come  about  30  inches  wide  and  cost  from 
50  to  75  cents  per  yard. 

Albatross  is  also  soft  and  a  fancy  weave.  It  too  is 
used  for  dress  goods  and  costs  about  the  same  as  challie, 
50  cents  to  $i  per  yard.  It  is  woven  from  38  to  45 
inches  in  width. 

Let  us  now  examine  some  of  the  heavy  ones  in  the 
first  pile.  Yes,  every  one  knows  the  name  of  the  heavy 
fine  piece.  It  is  broadcloth  and  is  used  for  coats  and 
dress  goods.  There  are  also  some  lighter  weights  of 
broadcloth  with  a  smooth  satiny  finish.  They  are 
called  lady 's  cloth.  A  very  good  broadcloth  is  expen- 
sive, and  costs  about  $5  per  yard.  One  can  buy  it  for 
$1.50,  but  as  a  rule  it  is  not  very  satisfactory  under  $2 
per  yard.  Broadcloth  is  closely  woven,  smooth,  and  soft 
in  finish.  It  is  from  50  to  58  inches  in  width.  Has 
any  one  at  your  house  a  dress  or  coat  made  from  this  ? 
Examine  it  and  ask  how  durable  it  has  been.  Father's 
winter  overcoat  was  perhaps  made  of  melton,  or  covert 
cloth.  Mr.  Allen  had  such  a  coat  last  year.  Examine 


212  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

the  samples.  They  are  both  heavy.  Melton  is  about 
the  same  width  as  broadcloth,  52  inches,  and  costs  also 
from  $2  to  $4  per  yard  for  a  good  quality.  It  is  used 
for  suits,  overcoats,  and  heavy  garments.  This  is  a 
standard  material  and  is  usually  dark  blue  or  black. 
Uniforms  are  often  made  from  it. 

Covert  cloth  is,  also,  used  for  overcoats  and  suits. 
It  is  heavy,  but  differs  from  the  smooth  surface  of 
broadcloth.  It  is  a  heavy  twilled  cloth. 

Felt  and  ftannel  are  both  in  this  heavy  pile,  although 
there  are  some  lightweight  flannels.  Felt  is  not  woven, 
but  is  compressed,  so  that  the  wool  fibers  are  matted 
together  in  a  flat  mass.  It  is  made  24  to  50  inches  in 
width  and  costs  from  80  cents  to  $1.50  per  yard.  I 
am  sure  you  all  know  its  use.  School  pennants  are  made 
from  it,  and  so  are  some  table  covers.  Flannel  is  woven. 
It  is  finished  with  a  soft  surface  which  is  slightly  napped. 
What  does  that  mean  ?  It  is  a  rather  loosely  woven 
fabric,  and  is  used  for  many  purposes.  Can  you  tell 
some  ?  Yes,  petticoats,  baby  garments,  waists,  dressing 
sacques,  shirts  for  men.  It  costs  from  50  cents  to  $i 
per  yard.  Sometimes  it  is  made  of  a  combination  of 
cotton  and  wool,  instead  of  all  wool.  It  varies  in  width 
from  27  to  36  inches. 

Let  us  examine  some  of  the  thin  samples.  Here  is 
one  which  it  is  almost  possible  to  see  through.  It  is 
called  voile  and  is  thin  and  gauzy,  like  veiling.  This 
sample  near  is  called  nun  s  veiling.  It,  also,  has  an 
open  mesh  weave,  and  is  a  common  wool  material. 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  213 

They  are  both  used  for  dress  goods,  and  are  made  in 
solid  colors.  There  are  also  some  printed  voiles,  but 
they  are  usually  made  of  cotton.  Wool  voile  costs 
from  #1.25  to  $2  per  yard  and  is  woven  from  42  to  45 
inches  wide  ;  while  nun's  veiling  is  narrower,  36  inches 
wide,  and  slightly  less  expensive,  from  75  cents  to  $i 
per  yard. 

Here  are  some  samples  called  etamine  and  grenadine. 
They  are  similar  to  the  voiles,  of  open  mesh  weave,  and 
are  used  principally  for  dress  goods. 

Bunting  is  another  open  mesh  weave.  We  certainly 
all  know  its  use.  Look  at  the  flag  flying  on  your  school- 
house.  Bunting  is  about  24  inches  in  width  and  costs 
about  35  cents  per  yard.  It  is  sometimes  made  from 
mohair. 

Here  are  three  samples  :  one  called  brilliantine  ;  and 
another,  alpaca ;  the  third,  mohair.  The  brilliantine 
and  mohair  do  not  feel  as  soft  as  the  wool  serges  or 
cashmeres,  but  rather  more  wiry.  They  are  made  from 
hair  of  the  Angora  goat.  They  are  serviceable,  for 
they  both  shed  dust  and  wear  well.  They  are  used  for 
dresses  or  dust  coats.  The  Alpaca  is  made  from  the 
hair  of  the  llama,  which  is  bright,  strong,  and  elastic. 
All  of  these  materials  are  bright  and  glossy.  Here  are 
their  prices  and  woven  widths  : 

Alpaca  .  .  .  36-45  inches  75  cents-$i  per  yard 
Brilliantine  .  .  54  inches  75  cents-$2  per  yard 

Mohair       .     .     .     40-54  inches     50  cents-#2  per  yard 


2i4  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

There  are  still  some  common  wool  materials  we 
have  not  mentioned.  Yes,  blankets.  They  are  made 
of  cotton  as  well  as  of  wool,  or  of  a  mixture  of  the 
two.  They  cost  from  $7  to  $30  per  pair  if  all  wool. 
The  combination  of  cotton  and  wool  can  be  had  for 
less. 

Carpets  are  also  made  from  wool  yarn.  They  are 
woven  so  that  the  yarn  stands  up  in  loops,  and  then 
these  loops  are  cut  as  in  velvet  carpet.  In  Brussels 
and  ingrain  carpets  the  loops  are  not  cut. 

Suppose  you  plan  to  arrange  your  sample  books 
with  three  columns  of  materials  made  from  wool.  You 
may  have  four  or  five  columns  if  you  prefer  to  put  the 
mohairs,  alpacas,  and  brilliantines  by  themselves,  and 
the  blankets  and  carpets  in  a  separate  column.  That 
is  the  way  the  Pleasant  Valley  girls  arranged  theirs. 
The  first  will  be  the  heavy  materials  ;  then  the  medium 
weight,  and  then  the  thin  ones.  It  is  easy  to  sort  and 
label  them  now  that  you  know  their  names,  uses,  and 
widths.  Before  very  long  we  shall  learn  the  story  of 
how  the  wool  fiber  is  made  into  so  many  different 
kinds  of  cloth.  It  is  treated  by  different  processes  in 
manufacture  in  order  to  get  a  smooth  close  finish  or  a 
loose  wiry  finish.  We  shall  learn  how. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Tell  the  difference  between  felt  and  flannel. 

2.  Name  some  heavy  wool  materials ;    some  of  lighter  weight. 
Fell  where  you  have  seen  them  used. 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  215 

3.  Look  up  the  story  of  how  carpets  are  made.     Perhaps  you 
would  like  to  study  about  rugs,  too. 

4.  How  do  serges  and  broadcloths  differ  in  appearance  ? 

5.  Plan  to  collect  materials  for  the  five  columns  of  the  chart. 
Mount  with  prices  and  widths. 


LESSON  4 

MAKING  A  PAIR  OF  BLOOMERS 
Let  us  begin  to  make  the  bloomers  to-day. 

First,  we  shall  lay  the  pattern.  Some  girls  have 
probably  chosen  serge  for  their  bloomers,  and  some 
have  ordered  galatea  or  sateen.  The  black  or  the  blue 
are  serviceable.  Suppose  you  cut  them  out  to-day. 
You  have  studied  the  pattern  which  your  teacher  had. 
Perhaps  some  girls  will  find  it  necessary  to  add  in 
length  or  width.  Your  teacher  ordered  the  pattern 
by  size,  according  to  age.  14-year  size  was  chosen. 
Perhaps  you  must  make  yours  smaller  or  larger.  One 
pattern  can  be  adapted  to  the  whole  class.  This  you 
allowed  for,  in  ordering  the  amount  of  cloth.  Let  us 
place  the  pattern  carefully.  Be  sure  that  the  perfora- 
tions which  indicate  lengthwise  of  the  material  are 
placed  on  the  warp.  Can  you  cut  out  both  legs  at 
the  same  time  ?  Can  you  tell  where  to  place  the  two 
strips  for  the  bands,  and  for  the  placket  facings  ?  Which 
way  of  the  material  will  the  length  of  band  and  facings 
be  cut  ?  Pin  carefully  in  place  and  cut  with  an  even 
motion.  It  will  perhaps  be  safer  to  mark  the  notches 


216 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


with  a  pencil  or  with  a  white  thread.  Girls  some- 
times forget  —  cut  the  notches  too  large  and  spoil  the 
cloth. 

Then  we  shall  learn  to  make  a  flat  felled  seam. 
The  two  legs  are  to  be  sewed  up  on  the  right  side.  Be 
very  careful  not  to  make  both  legs  for  the  same  leg. 
That  is  the  mistake  Marjorie  Allen  made.  Baste  the 
seam  ^  inch  wide.  Then  stitch  close  to  the  basting. 


FIG.  119.  —  The  flat  fell,  showing  the  three  steps  in  making:  A,  the  seam 
stitched;  B,  one  edge  cut;  C,  the  turning  of  the  other  edge  flat,  to  be  basted 
and  stitched. 

Cut  off  one  edge  of  this  seam  to  within  ^  inch  of  the 
stitching,  and  lay  the  other  edge  of  seam  flat  on  the  cloth 
for  the  fell.  Turn  in  the  raw  edge,  baste,  and  stitch  flat. 
This  must  be  done  very  carefully,  for  it  is  very  easy  to 
make  a  fell  which  is  wrinkled  and  full  instead  of  flat 
(see  Fig.  119). 

Join  the  two  legs  together  at  the  center  with  the 
same  flat  fell.  Be  sure  to  have  the  two  leg  seams 
come  together.  This  is  important. 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  217 

The  placket  openings  lie  over  the  hip.  A  single 
strip  may  be  used  to  bind  this  opening,  or  a  regular 
placket  may  be  made  according  to  your  pattern.  If  a 
strip  is  used,  cut  it  lengthwise  of  the  cloth  and  one  inch 
longer  than  twice  the  length  of  placket  opening.  If 
cut  2-J  inches  wide,  the  finished  facing  will  be  one  inch 
in  width.  Place  the  right  side,  of  the  strip  to  the  right 
side  of  the  bloomers.  Baste  £  inch  seams,  holding 
strip  all  around  the  placket  opening ;  and  then  stitch. 
Turn  to  the  wrong  side,  turn  in  £  inch  and  baste,  stitch 
again.  Care  must  be  taken  at  the  bottom  of  the 
placket  opening  to  make  the  seam  of  sufficient  width 
so  that  it  will  not  pull  out. 

At  the  bottom  of  each  leg  make  a  hem,  one  inch 
wide  finished.  Stitch,  leaving  one  inch  open.  This  is 
the  opening  for  the  elastic  band.  Run  in  the  elastic 
before  completing  the  hem  by  hand. 

Now  we  are  ready  for  the  bands.  There  is  one  for 
the  front  and  one  for  the  back.  If  your  pattern  allows 
for  fullness,  gather  to  fit  £  of  your  waist  measure.  It 
will  be  necessary  to  measure  your  bands  and  to  allow 
the  two  inches  for  lapping  on  the  back  band.  The 
front  band  is  usually  shorter  than  the  back.  Fasten 
the  bloomers  so  that  they  lap  towards  the  front. 

To  put  on  the  band,  work  in  the  same  way  as  in 
putting  on  the  apron  or  petticoat  band,  except  the 
band  is  turned  to  the  right  side  for  tailor  finish  on  a 
garment  with  flat  fells.  Begin  by  placing  the  right 
side  of  the  band  to  the  inside  of  the  front,  and  also 


218  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

back  of  the  bloomer  portions.  Baste,  stitch,  turn  to 
the  right  side.  Snaps  may  be  used,  or  buttons  and 
buttonholes,  for  closing.  Buttonholes  can  also  be  placed 
at  the  center  front  and  at  the  back  of  the  bands,  if  the 
bloomers  are  to  be  fastened  to  a  waist.  How  shall 
the  buttonholes  be  placed  in  cutting  for  fastening  in 
this  way  ?  Do  you  think  it  is  very  difficult  to  make 
the  bloomers  ?  The  girls  who  use  serge  can  make  the 
placket  facings  and  bands  of  silk  or  sateen  or  some 
lining  material  which  will  be  thinner.  Only  the  most 
experienced  Pleasant  Valley  girls  used  the  serge  — 
those  who  had  sewed  at  home. 


EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  What  are  the  important  things  to  remember  in  cutting  out 
the  bloomers  ? 

2.  How  does  the  band  of  the  bloomers  differ  from  that  put  on 
the  petticoat  ? 

LESSON  5 

THE  STORY  OF  HOW  WOOL  IS  MADE  INTO  CLOTH 

The  Pleasant  Valley  boys  and  girls  learned  how  wool  is  made  into 
cloth  after  it  has  been  sheared  from  the  sheep.  Would  you  like  to 
know  ? 

First,  the  wool  is  sorted.  Wool  sometimes  travels 
a  long  distance  before  it  is  delivered  to  the  manu- 
facturer. Perhaps  the  wool  in  your  skirt  was  grown  in 
England  or  in  Australia,  and  was  shipped  in  great  sacks 
to  New  York,  and  then  to  the  manufacturer.  As  it  is 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS 


219 


sheared  from  the  sheep,  it  is  dirty  and  full  of  burrs, 
grease,  and  perspiration.  This  grease  helps  to  pre- 
serve the  wool  until  the  manufacturer  is  ready  to  use 
it ;  and,  although  he  buys  the  wool  by  weight  and  pays 


FIG.  120.  — Wool  sorting. 


for  dirt  and  grease,  he  prefers  to  do  so  because  of  the 
preserving  qualities  of  the  grease.  Even  f  of  the 
weight  may  be  dirt  and  grease.  The  first  thing  the 
manufacturer  does  is  to  sort  the  wool  to  put  the  good 
grades  together,  and  to  separate  them  from  the  poor 
ones.  You  remember  the  fleece  is  the  whole  coat  of 


220  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

the  sheep.  Some  parts  of  this  coat  are  better  wool 
than  others ;  especially  the  part  from  the  head  and 
upper  part  of  the  back  and  sides.  About  seven  dif- 
ferent grades  are  separated  for  different  purposes. 


Courtesy  of  M .  J .  WMttatt. 

FIG.   121.  —  Wool  washing  or  scouring. 

The  second  process  is  washing  or  scouring.  Wool 
cannot  be  carded  and  spun  until  the  dirt  and  grease 
are  removed  ;  so  the  next  thing  the  manufacturer  does 
is  to  remove  the  grease,  or  "  yolk  "  as  it  is  called,  by 
washing.  This  must  be  done  very  carefully  so  as  not 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  221 

to  break  or  injure  the  wool.  Perhaps  you  can  bring 
some  dirty  wool  from  your  farm  to  school  and  wash 
it.  Soft  soap  is  the  most  harmless.  Use  a  soft  water 
at  a  low  temperature  (120°  F.).  Can  you  tell  why  it 
rruist  be  low  ?  The  washing  is  done  in  a  series  of 
tanks.  You  can  see  them  in  the  picture  (Fig.  121). 
The  wet  wool  is  swished  back  and  forth  by  means  of 
wooden  forks  which  carry  the  wool  forward  and  beat 
it  out.  There  are  rollers  for  passing  the  wool  from 
one  tank  to  another.  Then  the  wool  must  be  dried. 
This  is  done  in  a  kind  of  wringing  machine  called  a 
"  hydro  extractor."  Then  it  is  beaten  into  a  fluffy 
mass. 

Then  a  strange  thing  happens.  Oil  in  wool  is  neces- 
sary in  order  to  help  in  the  spinning  and  to  keep  it  soft 
and  elastic,  so  the  manufacturer  must  return  some  oil 
to  the  wool,  after  having  washed  it  all  out.  Olive  oil 
is  used. 

If  there  is  any  dirt  or  any  burrs  left  in  the  wool,  they 
must  be  removed.  A  machine  called  a  burr  picker  is 
used  to  beat  out  the  dirt. 

Then  the  wool  is  blended.  Do  you  know  that  the 
wool  skirt  which  you  are  wearing  may  not  be  made  of 
all  new  wool  ?  Wool  can  be  used  over  and  over  again. 
Old  wool  rags  are  pulled  apart  and  mixed  with  new 
wool.  If  this  did  not  happen,  the  manufacturer  would 
have  to  charge  much  more  than  you  pay  for  serge  or 
some  woolen  materials,  as  he  would  have  to  use  all 
new  wool.  That  is  why  some  wool  materials  are  so  ex- 


222  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

pensive.  If  only  new  wool  were  used,  there  would  not 
be  enough  raised  in  the  world  to  clothe  everybody. 
The  wool  manufacturer,  therefore,  blends,  or  mixes, 
the  wool  before  it  is  sent  to  the  carding  machine.  In 
blending  he  knows  just  what  color,  style,  and  grade  of 
material  he  wishes  to  produce,  and  he  grades  accord- 
ingly. Cheapness  is  one  of  the  principal  reasons  for 
blending.  Sometimes  cotton  or  jute  are  mixed  in,  if 
the  manufacturer  wishes  to  produce  a  very  cheap 
material  which  is  not  all  wool. 

Would  you  like  to  know  the  names  of  some  of  the 
all-wool  substitutes  which  are  used  in  reducing  the  cost 
of  all-wool  materials  ?  Marjorie  Allen's  grandmother 
told  her,  and  Marjorie  told  the  League  girls.  Shoddy 
is  one ;  it  is  made  from  old  rags,  like  woolen  stockings, 
flannels,  soft  underwear ;  materials  which  have  not 
been  felted  together.  Do  you  know  what  felted  means  ? 
The  rags  are  washed,  ground  up,  and  prepared  to  mix 
with  the  new  wool.  Mungo  is  another  queer  name 
which  is  given  to  woolen  rags  which  have  been  felted, 
as  broadcloth  or  men's  suitings.  Flocks  is  nothing 
but  dust  or  waste  from  the  clipping  machines  when 
cloth  is  sheared  or  clipped  in  finishing.  This  is  used 
to  fill  in.  So  you  see  nothing  is  wasted. 

The  next  process  after  blending  is  carding.  Do  you 
remember  how  cotton  is  carded  r  Long  ago,  when 
Marjorie's  grandmother  was  young,  wool  was  carded 
by  hand.  Look  at  the  picture  on  page  77  and  see  how 
Grandmother  Allen  holds  the  cards.  She  is  preparing 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  223 

rolls  of  wool  for  the  spinning  wheel.  The  manufac- 
turer must  prepare  the  slivers,  or  rolls  like  ropes  of  wool, 
for  the  spinning  frames  as  they  are  called  to-day.  The 
machine  which  helps  to  produce  these  ropes  is  called 
the  carding  machine.  It  also  helps  to  clean  the  dirt 


Courtesy  ofM.  J.  Whittatt. 

FIG.  122.  —  Wool  carding.     Notice  the  round  cylinders.     The  gauzy  web  is  being 
delivered  into  the  can  in  front  of  the  carding  machine. 

from  the  wool.  The  picture  (Fig.  122)  will  show  you 
how  the  wool  carder  looks.  There  is  a  center  cylinder 
and  around  it  revolve  small  cylinders.  They  are  all 
covered  with  wire  teeth  which  help  to  pull  the  wool 
apart  and  to  cleanse  it.  If  you  were  to  stand  before 
the  machine,  you  would  see  a  gauzy,  filmy  sheet  of  wool 
the  width  of  the  long  rollers  as  it  leaves  the  machine. 


224  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 

The  wide  guazy  mass  is  pulled  together  as  it  is  drawn 
through  a  hole  at  the  front  of  the  carder  and  is  de- 
livered or  wound  up  in  the  can,  just  as  we  learned  the 
cotton  was  delivered.  This  wool  roving  is  then  wound 
on  spools  and  is  ready  for  spinning.  Do  you  remember 
the  story  of  how  cotton  is  drawn  out  and  twisted  and 
wound  on  spools  ?  Wool  too  must  be  spun  and  made 
into  yarn,  before  yarn  can  be  woven  into  cloth.  The 
manufacturer  makes  woolen  yarn  and  also  worsted 
yarn.  Do  you  know  the  difference  ?  We  shall  study 
in  our  next  lesson  about  them. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Ask  your  grandmother  to  tell  you  about  sheep  raising  on 
the  farm,  when  she  was  a  girl. 

2.  Tell  why  the  manufacturer  must  blend  old  and  new  wool. 
What  are  the  names  of  some  old  rags  of  wool  used  for  this  purpose  ? 

3.  Tell  how  carding  was  done  in  olden  times.     How  is  wool 
carding   done   to-day  ?     Why   is    carding    an    important    process 
in  the  manufacture  of  cloth  made  from  wool  ? 

LESSON  6 

SOME  FACTS  TO  REMEMBER  IN  PURCHASING  WOOL  CLOTHING 

Why  does  the  manufacturer  use  woolen  yarn  in  weaving  some 
materials  and  worsted  yarn  for  others  ?  If  one  knows  this,  it 
will  be  a  guide  in  purchasing  wool  materials.  The  Pleasant 
Valley  girls  know. 

The  difference  between  woolen  and  worsted  yarns. 
Before  you  can  answer  the  question  for  this  lesson,  you 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS 


225 


must  learn  the  difference  between  woolen  and  worsted 
yarns.  Worsted  yarn  is  prepared  from  the  sheep  giving 
long  wool.  It  is  prepared  by  processes  which  comb  it 
until  all  the  short  fibers  are  removed  and  only  the 
long  straight  ones  are  used.  This  combing  prepares 
the  long  wool  fibers  for  spinning  so  that  they  lie  parallel. 


Fie.   123.  —  Wool  combing  for  high  grade  materials. 


Courtesy  of  M .  J .  WMttall. 

There  is  much  waste. 


This  makes  an  expensive  yarn  because  so  much  is 
combed  away.  This  fine  combed  worsted  yarn  is 
used  for  high  grade  worsted  materials,  as  some  cheviots 
or  fine  tweeds,  and  for  underwear. 

Woolen  yarn  is  not  combed  to  remove  the  short 
fibers.  It  is,  instead,  carded  a  great  deal  so  that  the 
wool  fibers  are  well  mixed  and  the  serrations  of  the  tiny 

Q 


226 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


fibers  arranged  so  that  they  will  interlock,  when  put 
in  water  of  high  temperature,  and  the  gelatinous 
scales  are  opened  up.  Woolen  yarn  is  woven  into 
broadcloths  and  meltons.  After  the  weaving  the 
cloth  is  put  into  vats  where  the  temperature  opens  up 
the  serrations  and  the  scales 
interlock,  and  make  a  close, 
smooth  piece  of  cloth.  This 
is  called  fulling.  Isn't  this  in- 
teresting ?  Do  you  see  why  the 
manufacturer  uses  worsted  in- 
stead of  woolen  yarn  for  making 
underwear  ?  If  worsted  yarn 
were  used  for  making  broad- 
cloth, there  would  not  be  the 
same  close  finish.  The  worsted 
yarn  is  combed  and  the  fibers 
are  not  in  position  to  interlock 
^  in  the  woolen  yarn  (Fig.  124). 
Can  you  answer  the  question  now 


worsted  yarn.    A  is  the 


woolen  yarn,  well  mixed  ;  B  is          i  j  •  j 

the  worsted  yarn,  well  combed.     whY  Worsted  yam   IS   USed  SOme- 

times  and  woolen  at  others  ? 

After  the  yarn  has  been  spun,  it  is  woven  into  cloth 
just  as  cotton  is  prepared  and  woven.  Woolen  yarn 
is  fuzzy  ;  cloth  made  from  it  is  woven  loosely  and  then 
it  is  put  into  vats  and  shrunken  or  fulled  until  the 
cloth  is  compact,  as  broadcloth. 

Worsted  yarn  when  made  into  cloth  is  shrunken 
very  little  or  not  at  all.  It  is  woven  as  it  will  appear. 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS 


227 


Beautiful   homespuns    and    worsted   suitings    are  the 
result. 

Many  fabrics  made  of  wool  are  of  simple  weave  like 
the  plain  homespun,  but  complicated  patterns  are  also 
woven  of  wool.  The  yarns  are  arranged  in  the  loom 


FIG.  125.- — The  spinning  of  wool  into  yarn. 

in  the  same  way  as  the  cotton  about  which  we  studied. 
Many  beautiful  patterns  are  made  in  woolen  materials, 
even  the  complicated  patterns  of  double  cloth  weaving 
like  the  old-fashioned  golf  capes,  made  of  double  cloth, 
which  were  worn  a  few  years  ago. 

So  you  can  see  that  the  manufacturer  must  know 


228  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

whether  he  is  to  adulterate  his  wool  cloth  with  cotton 
or  reduce  the  cost  of  production  by  using  mungo, 
shoddy,  or  flocks.  Flocks  is  put  in  when  the  cloth  is 
shrunken  or  fulled  in  the  vats.  The  short  pieces  and 
dust,  or  flocks  as  it  is  called,  are  drawn  in  as  the 
serrations  open  and  the  cloth  is  shrunken. 

This  is  all  useful  to  know,  for  it  helps  one  in  pur- 
chasing materials.     Most  of  us  cannot  afford  to  buy 
cloth  made  of  all  new  wool,  but  we  should  be  able  to 
tell   whether   cloth   is   made  of 
cotton  and  wool  mixed,  or  all 
wool.     We  will  know  by  price 

FIG.   126. -This  is   the  teasel  Whether      the     a11     W°o1     is     new 

which  is   used   to  brush   the  wool    Or    not.         No     shopkeeper 

nap  of  the  cloth  in  finishing,  i         i  j          n                                     j               1 

These  small   thistles   are  ar-  should    SCll     a    COttOn    and     WOOl 

ranged  in  rows  in  the  machine  for     aj}     wool.       When     WC     have 

rollers     through    which    the  .,         i    i     i     j            r        i 

cloth  passes.  our  textiles  labeled  as  roods  are 

now  labeled,  we  shall  be  able  to 

tell.  What  have  you  learned  to-day  which  will  help 
you  in  purchasing  wool  materials  ? 

Woolen  and  worsted  yarns  are  used  also  in  the  manu- 
facture of  carpets,  rugs,  hosiery,  blankets,  underwear, 
and  also  for  knitting  purposes.  Do  you  know  how  to 
knit?  Does  any  one  know  at  your  home  ?  It  is  a 
useful  and  pleasant  accomplishment.  Shawls,  afghans, 
caps,  and  sweaters  can  all  be  knitted.  Miss  James 
taught  the  Pleasant  Valley  girls  to  knit  bright  scarfs 
which  they  wore  for  tobogganing  the  next  winter. 
Some  girls  made  them  for  sale. 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  229 

Points  about  buying  woolen  garments.  Here  are  a 
few  things  to  think  about  which  Miss  Travers  from  the 
State  College  told  the  Mothers'  Club  of  Pleasant  Valley 
to  remember  in  buying  wool  garments  or  materials. 

1 .  Wool  mixed  with  cotton  should  not  be  sold  for 
all  wool.     It  is  a  cheaper  fabric.     It  wears  fairly  well, 
but  is  not  so  warm.     Pull  the  fabric  apart,  untwist 
the  fibers  to  see  if  cotton  is  present. 

2.  Garments  bought  ready-made  of  cotton  and  wool 
do  not  keep  their  shape  as  well  as  all  wool  garments. 

3.  Burning  a  piece  of  the  fabric  will  help  you  to 
identify   the    fiber.     Wool    burns    slowly,    chars,    and 
gives  off  an  odor  of  burned  feathers.     Cotton  burns 
quickly  with  a  flame. 

4.  A  good  wool  material  can  always  be  used  over 
again.     The  inexpensive  is  not  cheap  unless  you  wish 
something  which  does  not  look  well  or  wear  well  but 
is  cheap. 

5.  Remember  that  a  close  twill  weave  is  more  durable 
than  a  basket  weave.     Think  about  this  in  buying  ;  for 
the  weave  of  material  affects  the  wearing  quality. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  How  is  yarn  which  is  to  be  used  for  underwear  treated  in 
manufacture  ?     Why  ? 

2.  How  does  this  treatment  differ  from  yarn  used  in  the  manu- 
facture of  broadcloth  ? 

3.  What  are  some  of  the  things  your  mother  thinks  about  when 
she  buys  a  garment  made  from  wool,  in  order  to  get  good  value 
for  her  money  ? 


230  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

LESSON  7 

THE  CLOTHING  BUDGET 

Have  you  ever  thought  how  much  your  clothing  costs  father 
and  mother  every  year  ?  Marjorie  Allen  and  Barbara  Oakes  tried 
to  figure  the  cost  one  day.  Girls  must  begin  to  learn  how  to  spend 
wisely,  for  they  will  very  soon  have  the  responsibility  of  being 
spenders.  If  you  can  make  some  of  your  clothing,  you  will  help 
to  reduce  the  cost.  Would  you  like  to  learn  to  make  a  budget  as 
well  as  a  simple  dress  skirt  to  wear  over  the  bloomers  ?  Suppose 
we  study  to-day  about  the  clothing  budget. 

Have  you  ever  tried  to  calculate  how  much  is  spent 
each  year  for  your  clothing  ?  If  not,  suppose  you  try. 
Girls  who  know  how  to  make  some  articles  of  clothing 
can  have  more  for  the  same  amount  of  money.  Sup- 
pose you  send  for  the  material  for  your  dress  skirts. 
It  is  wise  to  learn  to  make  a  very  simple  skirt  first. 
Choose  a  simple  pattern.  Your  teacher  will  help  you. 
What  material  will  you  use  ?  Perhaps  you  would  like 
a  middy  blouse  later  to  wear  with  the  skirt.  Can  you 
name  some  suitable  cotton  materials  to  use  for  this 
purpose  ?  Yes,  Indian  head,  galatea,  duck.  You 
have  studied  about  all  of  these  and  should  have  them 
in  your  sample  books.  Such  a  dress  will  be  suitable 
for  school  wear.  Talk  with  your  teacher  and  calculate 
how  much  cloth  you  must  buy  for  your  skirt  and  middy. 
While  you  are  waiting  for  the  cloth  you  have  ordered, 
let  us  study  how  Marjorie's  Cousin  Ann,  who  works  at 
Paterson,  manages  to  plan  each  year  for  her  clothing. 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS 


231 


CLOTHING 


CHURCH 


She  has  such  good  plans.     Do  you  know  that  such  a 
plan  is  called  a  budget  ? 

Would  you  like  to  learn  to  make  your  clothing 
budget  ?  Ann  earns  $10  per  week  and  her  room  and 
board  cost  her  $6  per  week,  so  she  has  $4  for  other  ex- 
penses. She  puts  aside  $1.50  each  week  for  clothing, 
and  so  has  $6  per  month  or  about  $75  per  year.  She 
lives  near  her  work  so  does  not  have  daily  carfare,  and 
she  goes  home  at  the  noon  hour  for  a  little  rest  and  for 
lunch.  The  rest  of  her 
money  she  divides  in  this 
way  :  Each  week  she  tries 
to  save  75  cents  or  $3  per 
month.  The  rest  she  uses 
for  church  and  club  ex- 
penses, for  gifts,  news- 
papers, or  occasionally 
she  buys  a  new  necktie 
or  an  extra  waist ;  but 
usually  the  $75  supply  all  her  clothing  needs.  This  is 
how  she  manages.  She  plans  for  more  than  one  year, 
usually  trying  to  keep  three  years  in  mind.  Ann  also 
goes  to  the  Girls'  Club  and  has  learned  to  make  her 
waists  and  some  simple  dresses. 

The  following  is  what  she  bought  the  first  year. 
Remember  she  had  some  clothes  to  begin  with  before 
she  started  to  keep  her  clothing  budget.  Your  budget 
will  of  course  be  different  from  this,  but  this  will  show 
how  Ann  manages  with  $75.  Some  things  which  she 


FIG.  127.  —  Cousin  Ann's  division  of  her 
money.     How  much  was  for  clothing  ? 


232  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

needs  you  may  have  no  use  for  in  your  section  of  the 
country.  Try  to  plan  what  you  would  substitute.  This 
will  at  least  be  a  working  basis  for  you,  and  will  give 
you  some  suggestions  for  making  yours.  Marjorie 
Allen  and  Barbara  Oakes  have  made  their  clothing 
budgets.  They  have  $60  per  year  for  clothing.  What 
do  you  think  they  omitted  from  this  list  ?  The  things 
marked  *  are  made  at  home.  Ann's  mother  helps  her ; 
but  Ann  learned  to  make  clothes  at  her  Sewing  Club. 


FIRST  YEAR 

2  union  suits  (winter)  @  $2.00 $4.00 

3  union  suits  (summer)  @      .50 1.50 

i  flannelette  nightdress  @  i.oo i.oo 

1  flannelette  nightdress  left  over 

2  night  dresses  @  .80 i  .60 

*3  corset  covers  @  .50 i  .50 

2  pairs  of  corsets  @  2.00 4.00 

6  pairs  of  stockings  @  .25 1.50 

2  pairs  of  garters  @  .25 50 

shoes:    i  high  lace  @  3.00 

2  pairs  low  shoes  @  2.50 8.00 

I  pair  rubbers 75 

i  black  sateen  petticoat. i.oo 

1  long  white  petticoat 1.25 

2  short  white  petticoats  @  .75 1.50 

retrimming  last  year's  best  winter  hat 1.25 

summer  hat  (new) 4.00 

i  straw  hat,  common  wear 75 

i  umbrella i.oo 

*i  wool  dress  skirt 4.00 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  233 

*3  shirt  waists:   2  tailored  @  i.oo 

*i  fancy  @  1.50 $  3.50 

winter  coat ! 12.0x3 

spring  coat  (left  from  last  year) 

pair  kid  gloves 1.50 

pair  wool  gloves 50 

wool  dress  (winter,  bought  close  of  season) 12.00 

sweater 3 .00 

summer  dress 3.00 

white  duck  dress  skirt i.oo 

party  dress  (left  over  from  last  year) 
Gloves,  handkerchiefs,  neckties,  collars  received  for 

Christmas.  

Total #75-6o 

Notice  that  in  the  second  year  some  articles  are  left  over  from 
the  year  before.  This  is  because  Ann  has  foresight.  She  is  a 
good  manager,  and  takes  care  of  her  clothes  too,  and  plans  ahead. 
Do  you  ? 

SECOND  YEAR 

2  union  suits  (left  from  last  year,  winter) 
2  union  suits  (left  from  last  year,  summer) 

1  new  union  suit  summer $     .50 

2  flannelette  nightgowns  (left  over) 
2  summer  nightdresses  (left  over) 

1  new  summer  nightdress 75 

*3  corset  covers  @  .50 1.50 

2  pairs  of  corsets  @  2.00 4.00 

6  pairs  of  stockings  @  .25 1.50 

2  pairs  of  garters  @  .25 50 

shoes:    i  high  laced  ©3.00 

I  pair  low  shoes  @  2.50 

i  pair  low  left  over,  half  soled  @  .75 

i  pair  high  laced,  half  soled  @  .75 7.00 


234  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

i  pair  rubbers $     .75 

i  black  sateen  petticoat i.oo 

1  long  white  petticoat  (left  over) 

2  short  white  petticoats  (left  over) 

I  new  short  white  petticoat 75 

i  winter  hat 5.00 

i  winter  hat  (left  over)  common  wear 

I  summer  hat  (retrimmed) 1.50 

i  new  summer  hat  (second) 2.00 

1  umbrella  (left  over) 

*i  wool  skirt  (refreshened) i.oo 

*2  shirt  waists  (plain)  @  i.oo 2.00 

*i  extra  white  waist  @  1.50 1.50 

2  shirt  waists  (left  over) 
i  winter  coat  (left  over) 

i  spring  coat  (new) 12.00 

I  pair  kid  gloves i.oo 

i  pair  wool  gloves  (left  over) 

i  wool  dress  (left  over) 

i  sweater  (left  over) 

*i  summer  dress  (left  over,  remodeled) i.oo 

I  white  duck  skirt  (left  over) 

*i  new  white  duck  skirt i.oo 

*i  party  dress 8.00 

1  coat  suit,  bought  end  of  winter  season 14.00 

2  gingham  aprons i.oo 

i  gingham  house  dress  (ready-made) 1.50 

i  summer  dress 4.00 

Total £74.75 

Try  to  find  below,  in  the  list  for  third  year,  the  articles  left  over. 
Also  new  articles  which  will  be  of  service  the  fourth  year.  Do  you 
not  think  it  is  wise  to  plan  in  this  way  ?  Marjorie  and  Barbara 
have  enjoyed  making  their  budgets. 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  235 

THIRD  YEAR 

2  union  suits,  winter  @  2.00 .  .$  4.00 

2  union  suits,  summer  @  .50 i.oo 

1  union  suit,  summer  (left  over) 

2  flannelette  nightgowns  @  i.oo 2.00 

I  new  summer  nightgown  @  .75 75 

1  summer  nightgown  (left  over) 

*3  corset  covers  @  .50 1.50 

2  pairs  corsets  @  2.00 4.00 

6  pairs  of  stockings  @  .25 1.50 

2  pairs  garters  @  .25 50 

shoes  :    I  pair  high  laced  @  3.00 

i  pair  high  laced  repaired,  left  over,  @  .75 

I  pair  low  shoes  (new)  @  2.50 

I  pair  party  slippers  (new)  @  2.00 8.25 

I  pair  rubbers 75 

I  black  sateen  petticoat i.oo 

I  long  white  petticoat 1.25 

i  new  short  white  petticoat 75 

I  short  white  petticoat  (left  over) 

retrimming  last  year's  winter  hat 1.25 

I  winter  hat  (common  wear) 1.50 

i  summer  hat  (new) 5.00 

i  summer  hat  (remodeled,  common  wear) i.oo 

1  umbrella i.oo 

*i  wool  skirt 4.00 

*2  shirt  waists  (plain)  @  i.oo 2.00 

*i  extra  white  waist  @  i.oo i.oo 

2  shirt  waists  (left  over) 

I  winter  coat  (left  over  2  years) 
I  spring  coat  (left  over  one  year) 

I  pair  kid  gloves 1.50 

i  pair  wool  gloves 50 


236  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

*i  wool  dress  (remodeled  after  2  winters'  wear) $  3.00 

2  white  duck  skirts  (left  over) 

i  party  dress  left  over  (refreshened) 2.50 

1  coat  suit  (left  over) 

2  gingham  aprons  (left  over) 

I  gingham  house  dress  (new) 1.50 

i  gingham  house  dress  (left  over) 

i  summer  dress  remodeled i.oo 

i  new  summer  dress 4.00 

i  raincoat 5-OO 

i  wool  dress  (bought  towards  close  of  season) 10.00 

I  pair  winter  arctics 2.00 

Total .    £75.00 

EXERCISES   AND    PROBLEMS 

Plan  a  clothing  budget  with  mother's  help,  and  see  how  yours 
will  differ  from  the  above.  Perhaps  mother  spends  less  for  your 
clothes  or  more.  Mrs.  Allen  says  that  Marjorie  is  learning  to  pur- 
chase so  wisely  that  next  year  she  may  buy  all  of  her  own 
clothes.  Of  course,  Mrs.'  Allen  will  always  be  willing  to  help 
when  Marjorie  needs  her. 

LESSON  8 

PLANNING  TO  MAKE  A  DRESS  SKIRT  OF  COTTON  MATERIAL 
Let  us  begin  to  make  our  dress  skirts. 

Open  the  pattern  carefully  and  examine  it.  How  did 
you  order  it,  by  age  or  by  waist  measure  ?  The  pattern 
books  usually  say  order  by  age  for  a  girl  unless  she  is 
large  or  small  for  her  age  ;  then  order  by  waist  measure. 

Notice  how  many  pieces  you  have.  Notice  whether 
some  are  to  be  cut  on  a  lengthwise  fold  :  perhaps,  the 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS 


237 


center  front  and  maybe  the  center  back  if  it  has  a 

panel  front  and  back.     Notice  how  many  gores  there 

are.     Do  you  know  what  a  skirt  gore  is  ?     Look  at 

your  pieces.     A  gore  is  always  wider  at  the  bottom 

than  at  the  top.     Can  you  tell  why  ?     Gores  are  of 

different  shapes.     Style  sometimes  regu- 

lates the  width,  for  some  seasons  skirts 

are  very  narrow  and  at  other  times  very 

full.     The  gores  help  to  reduce  the  full- 

ness around  the  waist.     Do  you  under- 

stand ?     Notice  how  many  gores  your 

pattern  has.    The  front  panel  is  counted 

as  one  gore,  and  the  back  panel  a  gore. 

There   are   skirt   patterns   with    three, 

four,  or   even   eleven   or    more   gores. 

Perhaps  your  pattern  has  three  gores 

like  the  one  in  the  picture  (Fig.   128). 

Then  the  center  back  will  be  cut  on 

a  lengthwise  fold  of  material,  as  there 

will  be  two  front  gores  joining  the  back 

with  seams   at   the   hips.     This   is   an 

easy  pattern  and  suitable  for  a  young 

girl.     One  must  think  of  suitability  in  selecting  the 

style  to  be  worn.     Instead  of  three,  you  may  have  a 

plain  five  or  seven  gored  skirt.     Then  the  center  front 

will  be  placed  on  a  lengthwise  fold,  and  there  will  be  two 

gores  each  side  of  the  front  for  the  five  gored  skirt,  and 

three  each  side  of  the  front  for  the  seven  gored.     A 

five  gored  skirt  is  a  simple  one. 


p,G 


The 


simple  dress  skirt 
and  shirt  waist. 


238  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

Study  your  pattern.  Notice  all  the  notches ;  also 
just  where  the  pattern  is  to  be  placed  on  the  warp 
threads.  This  is  very  necessary.  Take  your  tape- 
line  and  measure  the  skirt  length ;  compare  with  your 
own  measures.  Your  teacher  will  show  you  how  to 
take  your  skirt  measure,  at  front,  hips,  and  back, 
from  the  waist  line  to  the  desired  length  (see  page  50). 
You  have  learned  how.  Pin  the  tapeline  about  the 
waist  and  measure  from  it.  If  your  pattern  is  too  long, 
it  will  be  wise  to  double  it  over  at  the  center  to  reduce 
the  length.  If  too  short,  add  a  few  inches  at  the  bottom 
in  cutting  your  cloth.  Remember  you  must  allow  for 
the  hem  according  to  desired  width  (see  page  50  for 
changing  patterns). 

Now  lay  the  pieces  economically.  Remember  the 
wide  end  of  the  gore  usually  cuts  to  best  advantage 
at  the  end  of  the  cloth.  Pin  and  cut  out  after  your 
teacher  has  approved. 

The  pattern  usually  allows  from  f  to  i  inch  for  seams. 
Notice  how  much.  Match  the  notches,  pin,  baste,  and 
then  try  on.  If  too  loose  or  too  tight,  it  is  possible  to 
stitch  inside  or  outside  of  the  bastings  and  so  to  alter. 
The  seams  can  be  finished  by  overcasting  the  rough 
edges  (see  Fig.  28). 

If  your  pattern  calls  for  an  opening  or  placket  at 
one  side  of  the  front,  it  will  be  appropriate  to  make  a 
hem  running  lengthwise  of  the  skirt  as  a  finish  at  the 
placket,  and  the  skirt  will  not  be  seamed  with  a  simple 
seam  at  that  place.  Turn  to  the  wrong  side  one  inch 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  239 

for  hem  along  the  right  front.  Baste.  Lap  this  hem 
over  the  left  side.  Baste  flat  to  the  left  portion  of 
front,  and  stitch  nearly  one  inch  from  edge,  to  within 
8  or  9  inches  of  the  top.  The  placket  opening  on  the 
under  side  of  front  can  be  bound  with  a  two  inch  strip, 
sewing  on  right  side  at  the  edge  and  turning  to  wrong 
just  at  the  edge.  If  the  pattern  does  not  allow  for 
a  hem  on  right  front  and  lap  finish  on  the  right  side  of 
front,  but  only  for  a  simple  seam,  then  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  face  the  right  front  portion  with  a  strip  i£ 
inches  wide. 

Pin  the  skirt  to  the  belting.  It  is  possible  to  turn  in 
the  skirt  edge  at  top  of  belt  so  that  it  comes  even  with 
the  top  of  the  belt.  This  makes  a  slightly  raised  waist 
line.  Stitch  neatly  at  the  top  edge.  Turn  hem  at 
the  bottom  the  desired  width  and  baste  carefully.  The 
stitching  of  the  hem  can  be  done  on  the  right  side  for 
neater  finish  if  the  basting  is  done  with  care. 

Sew  on  hooks  and  eyes.  Be  careful  to  attach  the 
hooks  so  that  they  will  not  show  on  the  outside  of  skirt. 

Mollie  Stark  was  so  successful  with  her  skirt  that 
she  made  one  for  her  older  sister  Ruth,  and  also  won 
the  prize  at  the  County  Fair  contest. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Study  some  of  the  skirt  patterns  which  mother  has  at  home. 
Compare  with  the  one  used  at  school. 

2.  What  is  a  skirt  gore  ?     Describe.     Draw  on  the  blackboard. 

3.  Give  some  suggestions  for  economical  cutting. 


240  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

LESSON  9 

CLOTHING  IN  RELATION  TO  HEALTH 

Do  you  know  that  clothes  help  to  keep  us  well  ?  The  Pleasant 
Valley  girls  learned  how,  and  we  are  to  study,  too. 

Well  people  are  usually  happy  people  and  they  can 
do  many  more  things  for  themselves  and  for  others 
than  sick  people.  Have  you  ever  thought  about  this  ? 
All  people  wish  to  be  well,  but  many  are  not  because 
they  forget  that  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  think  each 
day  about  keeping  well.  There  are  many  things  which 
help  to  accomplish  this.  One  cannot  wait  until  the 
end  of  the  month  or  year  to  think  about  keeping  well, 
but  must  do  so  every  day,  as  you  have  learned.  Exer- 
cise and  good  habits,  sleep,  proper  food,  recreation, 
and  proper  clothing  all  have  a  share.  Clothes  are  more 
important  than  people  think.  Ill  health  is  often  the 
result  of  lack  of  thought  in  the  protection  of  the  body. 
Let  us  study  how  clothes  affect  health.  You  know 
clothing  helps  to  keep  us  warm  or  cool,  if  we  dress 
properly.  You  have  learned  how  necessary  it  is  to 
preserve  an  even  body  temperature.  Growing  girls 
must  think  about  this,  for  no  girl  is  well  dressed  who 
does  not  think  about  the  relation  of  clothes  to  health. 
Is  a  dress  really  beautiful  if  it  is  unhygienic  ?  Miss 
Travers  told  the  Mothers'  Club  that  clothing  should 
serve  our  use  in  the  best  way,  should  be  pleasing  and 
artistic,  but  also  comfortable  enough  to  permit  freedom. 
Did  you  ever  feel  sorry  for  the  poor  Chinese  women 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS 


241 


Is  this  a 


who  squeeze  their  feet  ?  Many  American  women 
squeeze  their  waists  as  well  as  their  feet.  This  pre- 
vents proper  circulation  of  the  blood  and  causes  many 
complaints,  loss  of  hair,  and  serious  troubles,  because 
the  circulatory  system  cannot  carry  nourishment  to 
the  many  parts  of  the  body. 

Perhaps   you   have   noticed    some   girls   wear   very 
thin   stockings,   low   shoes,   and    low-necked    dresses ; 
really  very  scant  clothing  in  cold  weather, 
good  practice,  do  you  think  ?     Why 
not  ? 

Heat  and  energy  are  generated  by 
the  body.  We  have  learned  that  it  is 
a  machine.  Food,  water,  exercise, 
rest,  keep  it  going.  Heat  and  energy 
are  the  result  and  are  needed  if  the 
machine  is  to  run  well.  If  the  heat 
is  all  carried  away  quickly  because  the 
surfaces  of  the  body  are  exposed  to  the  cold,  then  there 
is  a  waste  of  the  energy  which  should  go  to  provide  for 
the  necessary  workings  of  the  body. 

Why  do  we  wear  clothing  ?  The  principal  reason 
is  that  the  body  may  be  protected  from  the  cold  and 
that  the  temperature  of  the  body  may  be  kept  constant. 
It  protects  also  from  sharp,  hard  objects  and  briers 
and  stones  which  might  injure  the  feet.  Many  people 
think  only  of  the  decoration.  This  does  affect  our 
choice  of  clothes  too,  but  should  not  be  the  prime  con- 
sideration. Miss  Travers  told  the  girls  of  Pleasant 


242  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

Valley   to   keep   these    things    in    mind    in    choosing 
clothes : 

Some  things  to  remember  in  choosing  wearing  apparel. 

1.  Adapt  your  clothing  to  your  work.     One  cannot  do  garden 

and  house  work  in  stiff  collars  and  unsuitable  clothing. 

2.  The  condition  of  health  will  affect  choice.     Strong,  well 

people  do  not  need  the  same  kind  of  clothing  as  sick  or 
delicate  people. 

5.  Age  makes  a  difference;  young  people  are  more  vigorous 
than  old  people.  Babies  feel  the  heat  or  cold  more  than 
adults. 

4.  Clothing  should  be  chosen  in  relation  to  climate  and  tem- 
perature; in  winter,  one  should  prevent  an  undue  loss  of 
heat,  in  summer,  clothing  should  not  interfere  with  loss 
of  heat. 
Some  important  things  about  wearing  clothing. 

I  Wet  clothing  is  very  dangerous  and  should  be  removed  at 
once.  If  this  is  not  possible,  exercise,  keep  moving,  until 
there  is  opportunity  for  a  rubdown  and  change.  John 
Alden  always  runs  when  he  gets  his  clothes  very  wet. 

2.-  The  clothing  worn  next  to  the  skin  should  be  changed 
twice  a  week.  The  body  gives  off  impurities  which  are 
absorbed  by  the  clothing.  This  change  is  necessary  if 
one  wishes  to  keep  well. 

3<  Clothing  worn  at  night  should  be  aired  during  the  day, 
not  shut  up  in  a  closet  or  folded  and  placed  under  a  pillow. 

4.  Clothing  worn  during  the  day  should  be  aired  at  night. 
This  is  necessary  for  health.  The  same  underwear  should 
never  be  worn  day  and  night  both.  How  do  you  air  your 
clothes  ?  (Fig.  56.)  Many  mothers  do  not  change  baby's 
shirt  at  night  and  wonder  why  he  cannot  sleep  and  is  so 
cross.  Sometimes  this  irritability  is  due  to  this  very 
cause. 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  243 

5.  Outer  garments  should  be  rather  closely  woven,  so  that 

the  wind  cannot  penetrate  and  carry  the  heat  away  too 
rapidly. 

6.  Heavy  garments  are  a  great  burden.     One  wearing  them 

is  not  free  to  act  or  work. 

Next  lesson  we  will  study  about  selecting  our  clothes, 
shoes,  underwear,  and  other  garments  with  reference 
to  health. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Write  on  the  blackboard  some  important  things  to  remem- 
ber in  choosing  wearing  apparel,, 

2.  Tell  some  important  things  to  remember  in  wearing  clothing. 

LESSON  10 

MORE  HEALTH  PROBLEMS  IN  CHOOSING  CLOTHES 

Clothes  help  to  keep  us  well.  Let  us  study  about  the  wise 
selection  and  use  of  them. 

Buying  shoes.  When  Barbara  Oakes  goes  to  buy 
a  pair  of  shoes  what  do  you  suppose  she  thinks  about 
besides  the  fact  that  they  are  pretty  and  that  she  likes 
or  dislikes  them  ?  She  remembers  that  they  should 
fit  her  feet.  She  thinks  about  these  things  : 

1.  They  should  suit  her  purpose,  be  adapted  to  her 
use. 

2.  They  should  fit  the  instep  and  heel  snugly. 

3.  They  should  be  straight  on  the  inside  line. 

4.  The  heel  should  be  broad  enough  to  balance  the 
body  well. 


244  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

5.  The  soles  should  be  strong  enough  to  walk,  and 
thick  enough  so  dampness  cannot  strike  through. 

6.  There  should  be  plenty  of  room  for  the  toes  to 
move.     (See  Fig.  129). 

7.  They  should  be  long  and  wide  enough  for  com- 
fort.    Tight  shoes  are  a  strain  on  the  body. 

Many  girls  have  "  fallen  arch."  This  affects  the 
whole  nervous  system  and  makes  them  ill.  Many  are 
suffering  and  do  not  know  the  cause.  Barbara  Oakes 
was  ill  for  a  long  time  before  her  mother  or  the  doctor 
knew  why.  It  is  not  necessary  to  wear  an  arch  sup- 
porter or  an  orthopedic  shoe,  if  one  has  normal  feet ; 
and  one  can  have  normal  feet  if  the  above  things  are 
remembered.  Some  girls  choose  foolish  footwear,  and 
later  have  much  discomfort  and  are  unable  to  walk. 

Very  great  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  the  feet  dry. 
It  is  cheaper  to  buy  a  pair  of  rubbers  than  to  pay  a 
doctor ;  and  rubbers  save  shoes  and  keep  the  wet  from 
rotting  the  thread  of  the  shoes.  Many  women  forget 
that  it  is  dangerous  for  a  woman  to  get  her  feet  wet. 

Selecting  clothing  that  is  healthful.  Stockings  should 
be  chosen  in  relation  to  climate.  It  is  unwise  to  wear 
thin,  transparent  stockings  on  a  cold  day.  If  possible 
have  two  weights  and  select  according  to  weather. 

Corsets  are  important.  They  may  seriously  affect 
health  if  not  worn  correctly.  They  should  fit  snugly 
over  the  hips  but  allow  freedom  at  the  waist  line.  For 
young  girls  corset  waists  are  very  satisfactory.  Great 
care  should  be  taken,  however,  when  the  first  corset  is 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS 


245 


selected.  Jane  Smith  says  her  mother  tried  several  for 
her  before  getting  exactly  the  right  one.  The  corset 
should  leave  no  marks  on  the  body.  The  danger  is 
that,  unless  well  fitted,  a  corset  interferes  with  circu- 
lation. Lacing  causes  all  kinds  of 
troubles.  It  deforms  the  body  and 
makes  it  hour  glass  in  shape,  in- 
stead of  free  and  beautiful  like  Miss 
James'  picture  of  the  Venus  de  Milo 
(Fig.  130).  When  tight  bands  or 
corsets  interfere  with  circulation, 
the  blood  supply  for  the  brain  and 
the  other  organs  is  shut  off,  and 
consequently  these  organs  are  not 
nourished.  Most  girls  wish  to  pre- 
serve the  graceful  waist  line  with 
which  nature  has  endowed  them. 
Do  you  ?  Fat  easily  accumulates 
around  the  waist,  but  plenty  of  ex- 
ercise, gardening,  sweeping,  walking, 
climbing,  will  prevent  this.  Buy  a 
.corset  which  supports  your  organs, 
one  which  does  not  press  down- 
wards ;  and  arrange  the  garters  so  that  they  will  not 
be  too  tight  and  interfere  with  the  circulation. 

Underwear  affects  health.     Do  you  remember   that 
we  discovered  the  reason  why  one  should  be  particular 
about  the  kind  of  underwear  worn  ?     We  learned  that  i 
ill  health  and  fatigue  are  often  caused  by  weight  of 


FIG.    130.  —  Notice  the 

beautiful  lines  on  the 

figure     of    Venus  de 
Milo. 


246  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

clothing  or  by  tight  clothing  causing  lack  of  circulation 
or  by  clothing  which  prevents  the  skin  from  being  venti- 
lated. Textile  materials  and  temperature  of  the  body 
are  closely  related.  We  should  learn  to  know  which 
materials  to  select.  Each  person  feels  the  need  differ- 
ently. Old  people  and  little  babies  feel  the  heat  or  cold 
more  than  other  people.  Grandmother  Stark  usually 
feels  cold  and  wears  a  shawl  about  her  shoulders. 
Underwear  must  be  chosen  in  relation  to  climatic  con- 
ditions and  also  for  conditions  under  which  one  wears 
them,  for  indoor  or  outdoor  work.  Each  must  study  her 
health,  the  climate,  her  age,  and  occupation,  and  plan 
accordingly  for  the  best  kind. 

Underwear  should  be  chosen  which  can  be  easily 
cleansed,  also  that  which  will  permit  plenty  of  air  next 
to  the  skin.  These  properties  of  materials,  as  we  call 
them,  must  be  studied. 

The  body,  as  we  know,  loses  heat  and  water  every 
day.  Some  materials  conduct  heat  more  rapidly  than 
others ;  and  some  absorb  and  retain,  while  others  elim- 
inate, moisture  more  readily.  Absorption  and  elim- 
ination differ  with  different  fabrics.  Linen  is  quicker 
than  other  fabrics  to  eliminate  moisture.  Wool  on 
a  dry  body  of  a  person  who  does  not  exercise  freely 
feels  warm  and  continues  so  as  long  as  the  skin  does 
not  give  off  more  moisture  than  the  wool  can  take  up. 
If  the  body  continues  then  to  give  off  moisture,  the 
heat  of  the  body  cannot  escape  and  one  does  not  feel 
comfortable.  If  a  current  of  air  or  a  draught  occurs, 


MAKING  OTHER  GARMENTS  247 

the  heat  will  be  conducted  quickly  and  the  bodily  tem- 
perature reduced  too  quickly.  So  underwear  must  not 
only  prevent  too  great  loss  of  heat  by  conduction,  but 
must  be  so  constructed  as  to  conserve  heat  when  it  is 
needed. 

Heat  is  eliminated  when  materials  conduct  it. 
Porosity  of  materials  prevents  too  great  elimination. 
The  air  in  the  meshes  or  pores  prevents  this,  as  a  still 
layer  of  air  does  not  conduct  heat  readily.  A  loosely 
woven  or  knitted  shawl  is  warmer  under  certain  con- 
ditions than  one  which  is  firmer.  Two  lightweight 
garments  are  better  than  one  heavy  one  because  of  the 
air  space  between. 

Wool  is  warm,  but  irritating  to  many  people.  It  is 
not  as  cleanly  as  some  fabrics,  for  it  absorbs  the  body 
excretions  and  is  not  easily  laundered.  As  it  shrinks 
with  use,  it  has  fewer  air  spaces  between  the  meshes. 
Any  loosely  woven  or  knitted  underwear  with  air- 
spaces is  more  hygienic  than  the  closely  woven. 

Cotton  garments  are  often  woven  loosely  and  so 
treated  in  manufacture  that  they  absorb  easily.  Silk 
is  very  pleasing  but  costly.  Silk  and  wool  combined 
are  also  excellent,  but  expensive.  The  great  argument 
for  wool  or  for  wool  and  cotton  is  that  evaporation  is 
slow  unless  moisture  and  draught  are  present,  and  so 
the  bodily  temperature  is  not  apt  to  be  reduced  so 
unduly  as  through  cotton  or  linen ;  in  other  words,  one 
is  not  so  apt  to  take  cold. 

Union  suits  form  an  even  layer  over  the  whole  body 


248  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 

and  are  considered  more  hygienic  than  the  double  layer 
of  vest  and  drawers  at  the  abdomen. 


EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  What  underwear  do  you  think  is  the  best  kind  for  you  to  wear 
considering  your  age,  work,  climate,  health  ? 

2.  Write  a  composition  of  two  hundred  words  about  the  best 
kind  of  corsets  to  wear,  and  why. 

3.  What  important  things  will  you  consider  the  next  time  you 
buy  a  pair  of  shoes  ? 

REVIEW    PROBLEMS 

I.  Begin  to  keep  your  clothing  budget.     Ask  mother  to  permit 
you  to  plan  it.     Do  not  stop  at  the  end  of  the  year ;   keep  on  for  at 
least  four  years. 

II.  In  what  ways  are  you  definitely  planning  each  day  to  keep 
well  ?     How  do  clothes  help  ? 

III.  What  facts  learned  at  school  can  you  give  mother  about 
wool,  which  will  help  in  buying  your  new  winter  coat. 

'  IV.  Plan  a  school  exhibit  of  all  the  work  done  during  the  year. 
Your  teacher  will  make  suggestions  about  the  refreshments  and 
invitations  as  well  as  plans  for  mounting  the  work. 


CHAPTER  VI 
CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES 

Have  you  ever  thought  that  being  properly  and  at- 
tractively dressed  helps  towards  achieving  success  in 
life  ?  Marjorie's  Cousin  Ann  says  she  knows  that  the 
neat,  tidy  girls  who  come  to  the  factory  looking  for 
work  are  more  apt  to  be  chosen  than  those  who  are 
careless  about  their  dress.  Cousin  Ann,  as  you  have 
learned,  is  very  particular  about  her  appearance.  She 
learned  long  ago  that  cleanliness  of  clothing  is  the  first 
essential  in  being  well  dressed,  and  that  neatness  is 
another  requirement.  Cousin  Ann  knows  that  it  takes 
time  to  wash  out  her  collars,  her  shields,  and  stockings 
every  other  night ;  but  she  also  realizes  that  she  must 
be  particular  about  her  appearance  if  she  wishes  to  be 
retained  at  the  factory.  She  takes  time  to  mend  the 
tears  which  sometimes  come  so  unexpectedly,  and  the 
lace  which  is  ripped  on  her  waist,  or  to  sew  on  the  but- 
ton which  will  soon  be  lost  from  her  coat  unless  sewed. 
If  she  spills  anything  on  her  dress  or  coat,  she  tries  as 
soon  as  possible  to  remove  the  spot.  This  takes 

249 


250  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

thought,  too,  as  well  as  time ;  but  Ann  knows  that  it 
pays.  Have  you,  too,  thought  about  these  things  ? 
One  must  also  know  what  is  suitable  and  appropriate 
for  various  occasions,  and  how  to  choose  becoming 
colors  in  materials  or  hats  and  gowns  if  one  buys  them 
ready-made.  This  is  really  a  study  in  buying,  too,  and 
of  knowing  how  materials  are  made  and  can  be  tested. 
All  these  things  were  discussed  by  Miss  James  and  the 
Pleasant  Valley  girls.  They  were  always  very  glad 
when  Miss  Travers  came  to  help  too. 

LESSON  i 

WHAT    IT   MEANS   TO    BE    WELL   DRESSED 

The  Pleasant  Valley  girls  have  decided  that  it  is  worth  while 
learning  about  suitable  and  attractive  dress.  They  are  anxious 
to  begin  this  study.  Suppose  we  learn  some  of  the  things  one  must 
think  about  and  study  in  order  to  be  properly  and  attractively 
dressed. 

One  does  not  have  to  be  expensively  dressed  in 
order  to  be  attractively  and  well  dressed.  Much  de- 
pends on  appropriateness.  It  is  not  appropriate  for  a 
girl  to  wear  jewelry,  thin  stockings,  low  fancy  slippers, 
lace  waists,  feather  hats,  to  work  or  to  school.  How 
much  more  attractive  and  appropriate  is  a  plain,  neat 
shirt  waist  and  cloth  skirt,  a  plain  necktie  and  a  simple 
hat,  and  plain  boots  or  ties.  One  should  not  dress  as 
if  one  were  going  to  a  party  when  one  goes  to  work  or 
to  school.  Do  you  understand  what  appropriateness 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      251 


means  ?  It  means  wearing  the  suitable  kind  of  clothing 
for  every  occasion.  It  is  our  duty  to  be  as  well  dressed 
as  possible,  for  our  friends'  sakes  as  well  as  for  our  own  ; 
but  a  well-dressed  girl  is  never  conspicuous.  Clothes 
which  would  be  appropriate  in  a  large  city  for  a  recep- 
tion might  be  very  inappropriate  in  a  small  town. 
Our  daily  clothes  should 
be  adapted  to  our  uses, 
whether  in  country  or  city. 
Would  you  wear  your  party 
dress  for  gardening  or  for 
tennis  or  skating  ? 

Criticize  your  own  gar- 
ments. Try  to  have  them 
neat  and  clean,  for  this 
makes  one  more  self-re- 
specting. Try  to  have 
your  clothes  convenient, 
neat,  graceful,  beautiful, 
allowing  for  free  move- 
ments of  the  body.  Choose  FlG- 
something  which  is  not 
overdecorated  but  which  will  emphasize  your  charm 
and  personality.  Young  girls  do  not  need  jewelry  or 
much  decoration  on  clothes,  for  youth  is  always  charm- 
ing in  itself. 

Some  girls  try  to  copy  every  "  latest  style."  Do 
you  ?  One  should  not  unless  it  is  a  style  which  will 
suit  one.  Cousin  Ann  heard  a  talk  at  the  Young 


- -Which  of  these  girls  looks 
ready  to  do  her  work  r 


252  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

Women's  Christian  Association  one  night.  It  was  on 
simplicity  of  dress.  The  speaker  was  from  a  large 
department  store  in  Paterson  where  Ann  lives,  and  she 
gave  Ann  some  new  ideas  about  dress.  She  said  sim- 
plicity is  not  necessarily  plainness,  but  it  means  being 
so  intelligent  that  one  knows  what  to  leave  off  in  the 
way  of  decoration.  She  said  being  well  dressed  is  know- 
ing what  to  omit.  She  also  said  that  trimmings  and 
ornaments  without  reason  are  foolish  and  spoil  a  gown. 
Because  one  bow  looks  well  it  does  not  follow  that  ten 
will  improve  one's  appearance.  So  many  girls  are  really 
caricatures.  They  wear  every  exaggerated  thing  and 
many  things  which  are  not  refined,  as  the  very  low 
neck,  or  the  very  scant  or  transparent  skirt.  This  is 
not  beauty  of  dress,  but  very  bad  and  vulgar  taste. 
The  speaker  said  that  "  beauty  of  costume  is  not  neces- 
sarily the  result  of  costliness,  but  of  artistic  apprecia- 
tion." Cousin  Ann  said  several  of  the  members  of  her 
sewing  club  were  at  this  lecture,  and  they  decided  to 
ask  Miss  Willing,  who  leads  their  club,  to  talk  about 
"  artistic  appreciation."  Cousin  Ann  said  she  did  not 
quite  understand  what  the  speaker  meant.  This  is 
what  Miss  Willing  told  the  girls,  and  then  they  under- 
stood perfectly.  Perhaps  you  would  like  to  know,  too. 
A  costume  is  a  work  of  art.  She  said  we  must  think 
of  our  costumes  as  being  works  of  art.  Every  girl  has 
a  style  of  her  own,  and  she  should  study  it  and  dress  so 
as  to  bring  out  all  her  good  points  and  conceal  those 
not  so  attractive.  One's  hair  or  eyes  should  be  con- 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      253 

sidered  in  choosing  color.  Stooped  or  narrow  shoulders, 
if  they  cannot  be  corrected,  can  be  made  to  look  less  nar- 
row by  the  plan  of  the  gown.  Stout  figures  can  be  made 
to  look  less  stout.  So  by  choosing  the  right  colors  and 
correct  decoration  and  right  lines,  one  can  often  improve 
one's  appearance.  Miss  Willing  says  to  understand 
about  this  is  to  have  what  the  speaker  at  the  Young 
Women's  Christian  Association  called  "artistic  apprecia- 
tion." One  should  cultivate  artistic  appreciation  for 
good  furnishings  as  well  as  for  appropriate  dress.  Miss 
Willing  told  the  girls  another  evening  about  color  and 
good  lines,  for  they  are  all  so  anxious  to  learn.  They 
never  even  imagined  before  that  any  one  ever  thought 
about  such  things.  Marjorie  Allen  and  the  other  girls 
at  Pleasant  Valley  School  are  very  glad  Cousin  Ann 
told  them  too. 

The  costume  should  be  the  background  as  it  were. 
Miss  Willing  says  to  remember  always  that  a  really 
artistic  costume  is  one  which  makes  us  say  "  what  a 
lovely  girl !  "  rather  than  "  what  a  lovely  gown  she  is 
wearing."  A  costume  should  not  be  so  strong  in  color 
or  design  that  one  thinks  only  of  that.  Do  you  re- 
member how  in  some  rooms  we  feel  the  pattern  of  the 
wall  paper  or  of  the  carpet.  When  one  does,  the  design 
is  poor  ;  the  wall  is  the  background.  Our  clothes  should 
make  the  wearers'  good  qualities  stand  out.  They 
should  be  subordinate,  Miss  Willing  says.  Do  you 
understand  that  word  ? 

Miss  Willing  says  the  outline  of  our  clothed  figures 


254 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


should  be  pleasing.  (Have  you  ever  walked  to  town  and 
seen  girls  with  large  hats  which  were  not  balanced  on 
their  heads,  and  short  skirts  and  perhaps  large 
muffs  ?  If  you  watch  them  as  they  come  towards  you 
down  the  street,  you  will  see  that  the  whole  outline  or 
silhouette  against  the  sky  or  house 
is  poor ;  they  look  top-heavy  or,  we 
say,  unbalanced.  Such  a  costume  is 
not  good.  A  smaller  hat  with  the 
short  skirt  is  what  is  needed  in  order 
to  have  a  balanced  figure.  The  out- 
line of  the  natural  human  figure  is 
most  beautiful.  Look  at  the  lovely 
figure  of  the  Grecian  woman  (Fig. 
132)  ;  see  how  the  lines  follow  her 
figure.  Costumes  which  make  ugly 
lumps,  as  bustles  and  large  muffs, 
and  other  ugly  shapes  are  not  well 
balanced.) 

An  artistic  dress  shows  good  taste. 
Do  you  remember  your  talks  in  your 
art  class  about  the  spaces  in  a  design, 
and  the  relation  of  one  to  the  other. 
This  is  true  in  dresses  too.  Tucks,  buttons,  seams,  bands 
of  trimming  all  mark  off  spaces  on  our  bodies  (Fig.  133). 
In  order  to  have  a  really  artistic  dress,  there  must  be  a 
plan  about  the  arrangement  of  spaces.  A  short,  stout 
girl  with  bands  of  trimming  running  around  her  skirt 
and  with  lines  of  trimming  running  up  and  down  the 


FIG.  132.  —  Notice  the 
lovely  folds  of  the 
Grecian  costume. 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      255 


waist  will  present  a  very  strange  appearance  to  one  who 
has  "  artistic  appreciation."  Can  you  tell  why  this 
would  not  be  good  taste  ?  A  stout  figure  should  wear 
vertical  lines  of  trimming  rather  than  horizontal ;  and 
the  spaces  between  lines  should  be  such  as  will  make  the 
girl  look  smaller  rather  than  larger ; 
so  dresses  must  be  really  designed, 
and  the  spaces,  colors,  values,  really 
thought  about.  Do  you  know  what 
value  means  ?  Some  costumes  have 
contrast  in  values.  Black  and  white 
are  sharp  contrasts.  One  sees  the 
black  or  the  white  at  once.  These 
spots  of  black  or  white  jump  at  one 
unless  there  is  something  to  connect 
the  two,  as  gray,  which  would  be  an 
intermediate  value.  Spotty  cos- 
tumes are  not  good  or  restful.  Have 
you  seen,  perhaps,  a  white  dress  with 
black  hat  and  gloves  and  shoes  ?  Did 
you  notice  how  the  black  things 
stand  out  and  the  eye  jumps  from  one  spot  of  black  to 
another  ?  A  white  dress  with  white  shoes  and  gloves 
and  a  black  hat  trimmed  with  some  white,  thus  carry- 
ing some  of  the  white  to  the  black,  would  be  better. 

Miss  Willing  said  this  is  called  studying  values.  We 
can  study  values  of  color  as  well  as  of  black  and  white. 
Next  lesson  we  shall  learn  what  Miss  Willing  told  the 
girls  about  color  in  selecting  or  making  dresses. 


FIG.  133.  —  Notice  the 
good  spacing  and  ar- 
rangement of  lines. 


256  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Why  do  you  think  Miss  Willing  had  "good  taste"  in  dress  ? 

2.  What  can  you  tell   about   Miss  Willing's  talk  on   artistic 
appreciation  ?     What  does  it  mean  in  relation  to  dress  ? 

3.  Criticize  your  own  garments  in  relation  to  line,  simplicity, 
decoration,  appropriateness. 

LESSON  2 

THE  CHOICE  OF  COLORS  FOR  CLOTHING 

Color  is  important  in  choosing  or  making  our  clothes.  We  too 
must  learn  if  we  would  choose  as  wisely  as  the  Pleasant  Valley  girls. 

Miss  James  thinks  that  the  Pleasant  Valley  girls 
have  learned  so  much  about  color  in  relation  to  general 
design  in  their  art  classes  that  they  will  be  able  to 
understand  easily  about  color  in  dress  too.  Colors, 
they  have  learned,  have  value,  with  gradations  from  light 
to  dark.  In  black  and  white  the  contrast  is  striking, 
but  when  values  are  closer  together  the  harmony  is 
closer  and  less  conspicuous. 

In  choosing  your  new  spring  dress  be  sure  to  think 
of  your  own  characteristics.  Your  appearance  may  be 
injured  or  improved  according  to  the  color  chosen. 
Color  even  more  than  design  may  spoil  the  appearance, 
and  is  important  to  the  wearer  and  to  all  who  come  in 
contact  with  her,  for  color  is  expression  of  one's  refine- 
ment and  culture.  Every  girl  of  Pleasant  Valley  will 
wish  to  know  how  to  look  her  best.  Color  in  which 
there  has  been  mixed  much  gray,  as  dull  blue  or  dull 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      257 


red  rather  than  pure  bright  color,  is  apt  to  make  the 
individual  characteristics  stand  out.     This  grayness  in 
color  forms  a  background  as  it  were,  or  a  set- 
ting, for  the  face  and  shows  the  figure  to  best 
advantage. 

Artists  have  a  way  of  expressing  this  bril- 
liancy of  color.  Miss  James  says  they  call  it 
intensity.  Do  you  understand  what  is  meant 
by  color  when  it  is  strongest  and -loudest  and 
most  intense  ?  Think  of  red  of  the  most 
vivid  brilliant  kind ;  gradually  think  of  it 
growing  grayer  and  grayer  until  it  is  pure 
gray.  By  intensity  of  a  color  is  meant  this 
difference  in  grayness.  Very  few  people  can 
wear  very  bright  red.  Miss  James  says  she 
must  have  the  "  grayed "  colors,  in  dahlia 
tones  of  red  if  she  wishes  a  dark  dress  of 
this  color,  or  in  old  rose  if  she  wishes  a  dress 
which  will  be  less  somber.  This  is  true  of 
all  colors;  only  red  is  perhaps  the  most  diffi-  FIG.  134.— 
cult  to  use.  One  learns  to  use  color  in  its 
full  intensity  only  for  touches  here  and  there 
on  a  gown  or  a  hat,  which  is  itself  not  intense 
in  color. 

Large  people  should  not  wear  red.  Blue  or  green 
are  cooling,  quieting  colors  and  so  are  better  adapted 
to  large  figures  than  red  and  also  better  for  those 
whose  features  are  not  very  pronounced.  Blues 
which  are  not  very  strong,  or  so  grayed  that  they 


Can  you 
find  the 
middle 
values  of 
gray? 


258  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

have  lost  half  or  more  than  half  of  their  strength,  are 
more  interesting  and  becoming  for  large  figures  for  a 
whole  dress. 

Yellow  is  nearest  light,  and  in  combination  with  red 
gives  the  oranges  from  which  we  get  browns  of  all 
kinds  and  degrees,  rich  and  warm  in  effect.  Try  mix- 
ing these  colors  in  your  paint  box.  Green  combines 
yellow  and  blue.  It  is  a  light,  cheerful,  and  calm  color, 
always  restful  and  soothing.  The  yellow-greens  are 
perhaps  more  cheerful ;  that  is,  when  more  yellow  than 
blue  is  used.  When  more  blue  is  introduced,  the 
greens  are  more  soothing  and  cool.  Violet  is  red  and 
blue  mixed  ;  a  cool  and  exciting  color,  which  can  be 
very  intense  or  very  subdued. 

Choosing  color  for  a  dress.  Do  you  think  the  Pleas- 
ant Valley  girls  will  think  before  choosing  their  new 
gowns  whether  it  is  for  school,  or  for  a  best  dress,  for  a 
party  or  for  the  house  ?  Even  apron  material  can  be 
chosen  which  will  make  the  wearer  look  unattractive. 
Why  not  look  pretty  and  clean  when  one  is  at  work  too  ? 
Miss  Willing  says  that  quiet  color  in  dress  is  an  evi- 
dence of  good  taste.  In  combining  colors  in  dress  one 
must  aim  to  obtain  the  right  balance  in  color.  Miss 
Willing  says,  in  planning  the  color  scheme  for  a  costume, 
think  about  the  dominant  or  most  prominent  color  and 
endeavor  to  bring  the  others  into  harmony  with  it. 
Harmony  is  the  result  of  colors  being  brought  together. 
Touches  of  black  help  to  bring  colors  together  and  so 
harmonize  them.  Miss  Willing  gave  several  other 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      259 

suggestions  for  harmony.     Cousin  Ann  put  them  down 
in  her  notebook  and  sent  them  to  Marjorie. 

1.  When  one  wishes  to  use  contrasting  colors,  as  yellow  and 
violet,  one  can  get  pleasing  harmony  by  using  a  large  quantity  of 
one  color  and  a  small  amount  of  the  other.     This  subordinate 
relationship  of  one  color  to  the  other  gives  harmony;    the  more 
grayed  the  tone  of  the  large  mass  of  color,  the  greater  the  intensity 
of  color  in  contrast  that  can  be  used. 

2.  In    combining  colors    of   weak    intensity    for    harmony,   a 
harmony  of  costume  of  one  mode,  that  is  one  color  used  in  different 
values,  is  safe  but  is  not  always  so  interesting  as  the  contrasting 
colors. 

3.  To  emphasize  a  color,  a  touch  of  the  same  may  be  added  to 
some  part  of  the  costume.     Blue  eyes  seem  even  more  blue  with  a 
blue  necktie  around  the  shirt  waist  collar. 

4.  Another  way  to  make  a  good  harmony  is  to  use  complemen- 
tary colors.     Red  and  blue;   green,  violet,  and  yellow;   green  and 
plum  ;   blue  and  orange ;   purple  and  yellow-green.     One  should  be 
used  intense,  and  the  other  in  a  gray  tone.     For  example,  in  com- 
bining color  with  hair,  greens,  particularly  gray  greens,  are  very 
pleasing  with  auburn  hair.     Barbara  Oakes  discovered  that  fact 
with  her  auburn  hair.     Violet  tends  to  make  yellow  hair  look  more 
golden,  so  care  must  be  taken  to  have  a  gray  violet  so  the  gold  color 
in  the  hair  will  not  be  overpowered.     "Red"  hair  is  made  to  look 
brighter  when  a  blue  costume  is  worn.     So  you  see  one  can  avoid 
unfortunate  combinations  if  one  studies  the  strength  of  the  color 
of  the  hair  in  relation  to  the  colors  to  be  used. 

Learning  to  combine  colors.  Miss  James  had  many 
samples  of  gauzy  chiffons  which  the  girls  learned  to 
handle  and  to  combine  so  as  to  get  artistic  results,  for 
combinations  of  complementary  and  contrasting  colors 


26o  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

as  well  as  for  combinations  of  "  one  hue."  It  is  only 
through  trying  that  one  learns.  This,  too,  is  a  matter 
of  appreciation.  Some  people  have  finer  appreciation 
for  color  than  others.  By  thinking  about  this  and 
learning  all  you  can  in  school  and  from  books,  you  too 
may  come  to  have  real  color  appreciation. 

In  choosing  the  best  colors  for  your  figure  or  for 
mother's  or  for  auntie's,  you  must  think  about  the 
value  and  intensity  as  well  as  the  other  characteristics 
of  color. 

Our  costumes,  as  a  rule,  are  worn  for  different  occa- 
sions and  are  seen  against  different  backgrounds.  We 
say  that  the  backgrounds,  as  in  rooms,  or  against  rocks 
or  grass  or  hillside,  are  of  about  middle  value  —  half- 
way between  white  and  black ;  in  other  words,  gray. 
Black  and  white  costumes,  then,  will  always  stand  out. 
White  tends  to  make  the  figure  appear  large  ;  black 
calls  attention  to  the  outlines  of  figure  and  looks  best  on 
people  with  good  figures  because  of  this  emphasis  of 
outline.  Blue,  blue  green,  and  blue  violet  —  if  of  middle 
value,  very  f(  gray  "  —  or  gray  itself  are  best  adapted 
to  stout  figures  as  they  are  retiring  colors.  They  seem 
to  melt  into  the  background  and  do  not  give  prominence 
to  the  figure.  A  little  brighter  color  may  be  added  and 
make  the  costume  more  becoming  to  the  face.  This 
should  be  used  through  the  center  of  the  gown,  not  at 
the  edge  to  draw  the  eye  to  the  boundaries  of  the  stout 
figure.  A  rose  or  a  flower  of  contrast  at  the  center  of  the 
belt  is  an  example. 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES       261 


Studying  lines  of  a  costume.     Miss 

James  says  the  best  way  to  get  an 

effect  of  height  is  to  place  the  longest 

possible    vertical    lines    through    the 

center  of  the  figure  with  no  points  of 

emphasis   as   trimming  on  the  outer 

parts   (Fig.  135).     For  a  slim  figure, 

when  one  wishes  to  appear  stout,  the 

outline  of  the  figure  should  be  empha- 
sized at  the  outer  sides  of  sleeves  or 

shoulders  or  skirts,  by  such  arrange- 
ment of  trimming  that 
the  eye  is  carried  across 
the  figure  (Fig.  136). 
Miss  Willing  and  the 
girls  had  a  good  laugh 
about  the  use  of  large 
plaids  and  broad  stripes  for  stout  people. 
Plaids  or  squares  certainly  tend  to  em- 
phasize stoutness,  as  do  bold  designs 
or  conspicuous  color  combinations. 

So  many  things  to  remember  —  line, 
value,  color;  all-important,  if  one  is  to 
be  attractively  dressed.  Miss  James  has 
decided  to  permit  the  girls  to  work  out 

FIG.  136.— Notice  the   color   combinations   at   school    for 

how  the  emphasis       ,  ,  /-p.  ».  * 

on  the  outside  of  their  new  spring  dresses.    The  subject  of 
the  costume  makes   color  in  choosing  hats  is  equally  impor- 

the  figure   appear  r  . 

larger.  tant.     Let  us  study  next  lesson  about  it. 


FIG.  135.  —  Vertical 
lines  through  the 
center  of  the  costume 
make  the  figure  ap- 
pear thinner. 


262  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Study  your  own  characterisics.     Write  them  down.     Decide 
what  predominating  color  you  would  like  for  a  spring  dress.     From 
the  chiffon  colors  which  your  teacher  has,  combine  the  appropriate 
color  combination  which  you  would  like. 

2.  Arrange  with  the  chiffon  samples,  combinations  of  comple- 
mentary colors,  of  contrasting  colors. 

3.  Write  a  composition  on  the  subject  of  "What  makes  a  girl 
well  dressed." 

LESSON '3 

SELECTING  A  HAT 

What  can  you  learn  about  the  care  and  arrangement  of  your  hair. 
Do  you  know  how  to  choose  a  hat  ? 

Jane  Smith  says  that  some  day  she  expects  to  be  a 
milliner.  Perhaps  she  will  be.  Miss  James  says  she 
can  later  go  to  a  school  and  study  millinery.  This 
means  that  Jane  will  learn  not  only  how  to  make  hats, 
but  about  the  right  lines  and  colors  to  use.  Jane  has 
a  natural  deftness  of  touch  and  a  good  idea  about  copy- 
ing and  designing  ;  so  Miss  James  thinks  she  will  make 
a  good  milliner.  So  often  hats  are  unbecoming  because 
the  colors  are  inharmonious,  or  the  lines  out  of  relation 
to  the  face  wearing  them.  Whether  one  is  old  or  young, 
one  should  think  about  this. 

Give  some  care  and  thought  to  your  hair.  One  day 
when  Miss  Travers  came  from  the  State  College  to 
speak  to  the  Mothers'  Clubs,  she  stopped  at  the  school 
and  gave  a  talk  to  the  girls  of  Pleasant  Valley  School 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      263 

about  their  hair  and  hats.  She  said  that  so  many  wo- 
men and  girls  forget  to  take  care  of  their  hair.  It 
should  be  washed  once  a  month  in  hot  water  with  cas- 
tile  soap  and  perhaps  with  the  white  of  an  egg,  and  then 
thoroughly  rinsed.  The  comb  and  brush  should  be 
washed  once  a  week.  Marjorie  Allen's  mother  has 
beautiful  hair,  and  she  says  she  does  as  Miss  Travers 
told  the  girls ;  and  also  she  brushes  her  hair  carefully 
to  remove  dust,  every  night 
before  going  to  bed,  and 
braids  her  hair  in  two 
braids  for  the  night.  This 
is  a  very  good  way  to  care 
for  one's  hair. 

Have  you  ever  noticed 
how  some  girls  nearly  lose 
all  their  hair  because  they  FIG  I37._which  arrangement  oThair 

bum    it    Or    dry    it    Up    With         and  bow  do  you  think  most  appropriate 

the    curling    irons?     One      for sch°o1  wear ? 
should  be  very  careful   always  to  test  the  irons  on  a 
paper.     Burned  hair  is  not  beautiful.      So  often  girls 
forget  that  the  becomingness  of  a  hat  will  depend  on 
the  way  the  hair  is  taken  care  of  or  dressed. 

Large  bows,  out  of  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  head, 
are  very  poor  taste.  A  bow  as  well  as  a  hat  should 
suit  the  face  in  line  as  well  as  color,  and  a  bow  which 
stands  way  out  in  conspicuous  angles  is  not  good  in 
line,  as  it  is  not  apt  to  conform  to  the  lines  of  the  face 
and  of  the  head  wearing  it.  Have  you  noticed  this  ? 


264  CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 

Perhaps  you  can  try  to  rearrange  some  of  the  bows  the 
girls  are  wearing  to  school  so  they  will  be  in  better  taste. 
Cleanliness  of  the  head  and  hair,  and  a  clean,  clear 
complexion,  which  comes  from  proper  food  and  good 
digestion  as  well  as  from  cleanliness,  are  the  best  back- 
grounds for  a  hat.  Any  girl  who  has  this  charm  of 
cleanliness  can  with  thought  choose  a  hat  which  will 
be  becoming.  Hats,  also,  emphasize  the  defects  as 
well  as  the  good  points  of  the  wearer  ;  so  neatness  and  a 
becoming  way  of  arranging  the  hair  will  help  very  much. 
Perhaps  some  of  the  girls  would  like  to  learn  to  make 
hats,  too.  The  hat  is  the  most  difficult  article  of  the 
whole  wardrobe  to  select.  Most  girls  and  women 
wear  hats  that  are  too  small  and  that  stand  on  the 
top  of  the  head  instead  of  fitting  it.  Good  taste,  Miss 
James  says,  in  choosing  hats  means  the  very  thing  we 
have  studied  about :  artistic  appreciation,  a  knowledge 
of  line  and  color  and  form  as  well  as  appropriateness. 

Think  about  the  shape  and  the  lines  of  a  hat.  Hats 
should  be  chosen  or  planned,  if  one  is  making  them, 
in  relation  to  the  whole  figure.  Do  you  stand  up  or 
sit  down  before  the  mirror  in  selecting  a  hat  ?  Try 
standing  up  so  you  can  see  your  whole  figure  and  the 
relation  of  the  hat  to  the  whole.  You  can  tell  then  if 
the  hat  is  too  large  or  too  small,  whether  it  overbal- 
ances the  figure,  or  if  the  silhouette  will  be  pleasing.. 
Marjorie  Allen  says  since  she  has  learned  about  these 
things  she  is  surprised  to  notice  how  few  people  have 
thought  of  this  question  of  the  silhouette.  Sometimes, 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      26; 


the  milliners  are  to  blame  too,  for  they  do  not  always 
know  this  secret.  Marjorie  says  her  new  winter  hat 
does  not  please  her  because  of  the  silhouette. 

Miss  Travers  told  the  girls  to  think  especially  about 
lines.  The  round-faced  girl  whose  nose  turns  up  a  little 
will  look  best  in  a  hat  that  is 
slightly  tilted  in  front  or  with 
a  rolling  brim  at  the  side  or 
front.  Barbara  Oakes  says  she 
discovered  that  for  herself.  She 
had  two  hats  which  rolled  in 
that  way ;  and  she  liked  them 
better  and  was  more  comfortable 
in  them  than  in  others.  She  also 
learned  through  experience  that 
she  did  not  look  well  in  narrow 
hats  that  bend  over  the  face. 
Miss  Travers  says  it  is  true 
when  one's  face  is  full  and  the 
nose  retrousse,  that  such  a  shape 
is  not  apt  to  be  becoming. 

Miss  James  says  she  noticed 
that  long,  thin  faces  look  longer 
and  thinner  in  high  pointed  trimmings.  What  kind 
of  trimming,  then,  would  you  recommend  for  a  long, 
thin  face  ?  For  long  faces,  a.  brim  worn  slightly  forward 
will  cast  a  shadow  and  so  tend  to  shorten  the  length  of 
the  face ;  and  brims  that  are  rolling  and  wide,  coun- 
teract the  effect  of  the  long,  thin  face.  Do  you  see 


FIG.  138. — One  can  select  a 
hat  which  will  make  a  good 
silhouette  when  one  sees  the 
whole  figure  before  a  mirror. 


266  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

how  very  important  it  is  to  study  the  face  and  its 
lines  ? 

The  way  of  dressing  one's  hair  may  make  it  difficult 
to  choose  a  hat.  If  the  person  with  the  long,  thin  face 
also  draws  back  her  hair  sharply  at  the  sides,  her  face 
will  look  longer  and  it  will  be  more  difficult  to  choose 
a  hat  for  such  a  face.  If  the  hair  is  worn  very  fluffy 
when  one  has  a  very  round,  full  face,  then  the  face  is  apt 
to  look  fuller.  So  you  see  hairdressing  is  very  impor- 
tant to  study  too,  if  a  girl  is  to  look  her  best  and  choose 
the  most  becoming  hats. 

Color,  too,  should  be  kept  in  mind.  Some  skins  are 
pale ;  others  are  rosy.  Black  makes  the  complexion 
look  white  and  should  not  be  worn  next  to  a  dark, 
swarthy  skin.  Browns  are  apt  to  look  well  with  auburn 
hair  like  Jane  Alden's.  She  has  such  a  clear  complexion. 
Barbara's  mother,  Mrs.  Oakes,  with  gray  eyes  and 
hair,  will  look  well  in  gray. 

We  have  studied  about  contrasting  colors.  The 
contrasting  colors  for  a  person  with  light  hair  will 
be  quite  different  from  the  colors  for  'a  person  with 
auburn  hair.  Notice  what  is  said  in  the  lesson  about 
color  in  selection  of  dress.  This  is  true  of  hats  too. 

Select  a  hat  that  is  becoming.  In  choosing  hats  aim 
always  to  get  what  is  becoming  to  you  and  your  style 
rather  than  the  extremes  of  fashion.  The  latest  styles 
can  always  be  adapted  to  suit  your  style  if  a  milliner 
knows  her  business. 

Remember  that  very  often  hats  are  not  becoming  be- 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      267 


cause  they  are  not  worn  properly.  Sometimes  the  wearer 
forgets  and  pushes  the  hat  back  or  to  one  side  ;  and  then 
its  lines  do  not  conform  to  the  outline  of  hair  and  head 
and  face.  Study  how  to  wear  your  hats.  Large  hats 
are  often  difficult  to  wear  because  of  correct  balance. 


FIG.  139.  —  Which  way  looks  better? 

If  you  would  like  to  try  to  make  a  simple  summer  hat, 
perhaps  you  can  buy  a  frame,  and  with  your  teacher's 
help  learn  to  change  and  adapt  it  to  your  face.  It  is 
easy  to  learn  to  sew  straw  on  a  frame  and  to  trim  with 
a  bow  or  flowers.  Simple  trimming  for  young  girls  is 
always  the  most  pleasing ;  flowers,  wings,  quills,  and 
simple  bows  are  the  most  suitable. 


268  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  What  things  will  you  have  in  mind  when  you  go  to  the  mil- 
liner's to  select  a  new  hat,  or  to  have  your  old  hat  remodeled  ? 
Write  a  list  of  the  principal  points  to  be  kept  in  mind  in  choosing. 

2.  Bring  to  school  pictures  of  hats  adapted  to  faces ;   some  that 
are  not.     You  can  find  these  in  old  fashion  magazines ;  perhaps  in 
old  portraits.     Pin  them  on  your  classroom  Bulletin  Board.     Criti- 
cize.    Your  teacher  will  probably  have  some  too.     Why  is  this  a 
good  subject  to  study  ? 

LESSON  4 

MAKING  THE    MIDDY   BLOUSE 

The  Pleasant  Valley  girls  will  make  middy  blouses  and  so 
complete  their  gymnasium  suits.  Will  you  not  wish  to  complete 
your  suits  too  ? 

The  girls  have  found  their  bloomers  and  skirts  very  useful,  and 
are  glad  to  make  the  middy  blouse  too.  They  will  use  the  same 
material  as  for  the  skirt. 

By  this  time  the  Pleasant  Valley  girls  are  so  expert 
that  they  make  no  mistakes  in  laying  on  their  patterns 
or  in  cutting  out  garments.  They  are  very  particular  to 
have  the  long  line  of  single  perforations  indicating  the 
length  lying  exactly  on  the  warp  threads  of  the  cloth. 
Jane  Smith  says  she  can  tell  exactly  which  pieces  must 
be  cut  double  on  a  fold  of  the  goods.  Can  you  ?  The 
girls  sent  for  patterns  for  34  bust  measure  and  for  38. 
Some  of  the  girls  are  quite  large  for  their  age  —  Jane 
Andrews  and  Barbara  both  are  large  and  will  need  the 
38  size. 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      269 

Miss  James  opened  a  pattern  and  held  up  all  the 
pieces.  She  pinned  them  to  the  dress  form  so  as  to 
show  the  relationship  of  each  piece  to  the  figure.  Can 
you  do  this,  too,  before  you  begin  to  cut,  and  so  learn 
which  pieces  are  to  be  cut  on  a  fold  ?  Then  lay  the  pat- 
tern on  your  cloth  most  carefully  and  pin  ready  for  cut- 
ting. Do  not  cut  until  your  teacher  says  you  may. 
Learn  to  use  a  tracing  wheel  and  trace  your  seams, 
so  all  will  match  in  putting  the  middy  together.  This 
garment  will  be  made  entirely  by  machine,  except 
the  hand  processes  of  basting  and  gathering.  Hems 
and  facings  should  be  carefully  basted  before  being 
stitched.  Good,  perfect  stitching  improves  all  such 
tailored  garments.  Poor  stitching  spoils  the  effect. 

How  to  make  a  middy  blouse.  After  the  pattern  has 
been  carefully  laid  on,  and  the  material  cut  out,  this  is 
the  way  to  make  and  finish  a  middy  blouse : 

1.  Baste,  with  the  seams  on  the  outside,  shoulder,  and  under- 
arm seams.     Try  on.     If  necessary  in  order  to  fit  more  smoothly 
across  the  chest,  let  the  front  drop ;    if  extra  fullness  across  the 
chest  is  desired,  let  out  under  the  arms.     The  shoulder  seams  will 
be  finished,  but  not  the  underarm.       Mark  with  tracing  or  pencil 
the  new  seam  for  underarm  if  you  must  change  it. 

Make  a  flat  fell  seam  at  the  shoulder,  \  inch  wide  finished. 
You  have  all  learned  how. 

2.  The  sleeves,  which  are  in  one  piece,  are  put  in  next,  before  the 
sleeves  or  underarms  are  seamed.     Match  the  notches,  gather  the 
sleeves  if  there  is  any  fullness  at  armhole,  and  baste  in  the  sleeves 
so  that  the  seam  is  on  the  right  side.     Make  flat  fells,  basting  the 
turn  which  falls  over  the  sleeves  so  that  it  will  lie  very  flat. 


270  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

3.  Baste  seams  of  sleeve  and  underarm  all  in  one  long  seam 
on  right  side.     Match  at  armhole.     Make  flat  fell,  turning  the  fell 
towards  the  front  (see  page  216). 

4.  Hem  the  bottom  of  the  middy  with  one  inch  hem. 

5.  Finish  the  neck  next.     Prepare  the  collar  with  its  facing 
according  to  the  notches  of  the  pattern  and  directions.     Sew; 
turn  to  right  side.     If  the  collar  is  to  be  decorated  with  finishing 
braid,  this  decorating  should  be  done  before  the  collar  and  facing 
are  sewed  together.     Attach  collar  to  middy,  right  of  center  collar 
to  right  of  the  center  back  of  middy.     The  seam  will  then  fall  on  the 
inside  towards  the  neck  and  will  be  concealed  by  the  facing  which 
should  be  turned  in  and  sewed  over  the  seam.     Patterns  for  middies 
vary,  and  other  methods  of  attaching  collar  may  be  suggested. 
A  loose  ribbon  or  scarf  of  silk  can  be  tied  under  the  collar  to  form  a 
sailor's  knot. 

6.  Then  finish  the  sleeve.    The  sleeve  may  be  finished  with  a  half 
inch  hem  and  rolled  as  many  are  worn,  or  a  cufF  can  be  attached 
which  will  be  of  the  same  width  as  the  sleeve  or  just  to  fit  the  wrist. 
In  the  latter  case,  the  fullness  of  the  sleeve  must  be  gathered  to  fit. 

The  girls  of  Pleasant  Valley  School  made  sleeves  of 
three  quarter  length,  and  attached 
a  turned-up  cuff  of  same  width  as 
sleeve.  This  cuff  was  made  double  : 
the  two  pieces  sewed  together, 
turned,  and  attached  to  the  sleeve 
with  the  seam,  on  the  outside  of 
sleeve.  The  facing,  then,  concealed 
the  seam  and,  when  the  cuff  was 
FIG.  140.  —  Eyelets  were  turned  up,  was  entirely  concealed. 


made  by  some  girls,  in    jhis  makes  a  very  neat  finish  inside 

the  tront  ot  their  middy 

waists.  the  sleeve. 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      271 

Some  of  the  girls,  those  who  worked  rapidly,  made 
eyelets  at  the  front  of  the  middy  and  laced  the  middy. 
Eyelets  are  punched  with  a  stiletto  or  sharp  point,  and 
are  worked  like  a  buttonhole,  only  perfectly  round. 

The  girls  of  Pleasant  Valley  will  give  an  entertain- 
ment of  calisthenic  exercises  as  soon  as  their  middy 
suits  are  entirely  completed.  The  boys  will  also  give 
some  exercises  with  the  dumbbells  and  join  in  the  folk 
dancing.  "  The  Pleasant  Valley  News  "  has  already  an- 
nounced this  entertainment  at  the  Town  Hall.  Every 
body  in  Pleasant  Valley  is  going  The  money  will  be 
used  to  pay  for  some  of  the  furnishings  of  the  Ellen  H. 
Richards  House. 

EXERCISES   AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Draw  a  sketch  of  your  middy  blouse.     How  will  yours  differ 
from  the  one  in  the  picture  ? 

2.  Try  to  make  another  middy  at  home. 

LESSON  5 
SUGGESTIONS  FOR  BUYING  GARMENTS  OF  WOOL  AND  SILK 

Miss  Travers  from  the  State  College  talks  to  the  girls  of  Pleasant 
Valley  School  about  buying  clothing,  especially  of  wool  or  silk. 
You,  too,  will  wish  to  know  what  Miss  Travers  said. 

Have  you  ever  considered  whether  it  is  wise  or  not 
to  buy  your  clothing  ready-made  ?  Most  of  the  mothers 
of  the  Pleasant  Valley  girls  make  the  garments  at  home 
with  some  assistance  from  the  visiting  dressmaker. 


272  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

What  a  help  the  Pleasant  Valley  girls  will  be  when  the 
dressmaker  comes  to  their  homes.  They  are  not  old 
enough  to  take  full  responsibility,  but  they  will  surely 
be  able  to  assist  after  the  dressmaker  has  planned. 
This  will  help  their  mothers,  too.  Mrs.  Allen,  Mrs. 
Stark,  and  Mrs.  Oakes  have  already  discovered  how 
many  good  suggestions  their  daughters  have  to  give. 

It  is  sometimes  wise  to  buy  things  ready-made.  In 
our  grandmothers'  day  this  was  impossible.  Grand- 
mother Stark  used  to  stitch  all  Grandfather  Stark's 
shirts  by  hand  and  make  his  overalls.  To-day  one  can 
buy  good  serviceable  garments  like  overalls,  rompers, 
shirts,  etc.,  at  moderate  prices,  ready-made.  Just 
what  should  be  made  at  home  should  be  determined 
by  the  mother,  and  will  depend  on  her  time  and  duties 
at  home.  Some  mothers  can  so  organize  their  house- 
hold work  that  they  have  time  for  some  sewing  too,  and 
they  enjoy  the  change  of  work.  It  pays  to  make 
certain  garments  because  the  workmanship  is  often 
better  and  one  can  choose  one's  own  materials.  This 
means  that  the  life  of  the  garment  is  apt  to  be  longer. 
This  is  economy  if  one  has  the  time  and  strength ;  but 
it  never  pays  if  one  sacrifices  other  things  like  fresh  air, 
exercise,  some  relaxation,  for  the  sake  of  saving  a  little 
money. 

What  should  you  consider  in  buying  ready-made 
garments?  Miss  Travers  says  it  never  pays  to  buy 
flimsy  materials,  cheap  lace  edging,  or  insertions  which 
are  poorly  put  together  and  will  tear.  One  can  instead 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      273 

purchase  ready-made  garments  which  are  plain.  It  is 
not  always  possible  to  afford  the  time  to  make  dainty, 
fine,  hand-made  underwear,  which  soon  wears  out ; 
but  one  can  often  spare  the  time  to  construct  a  few 
pairs  of  more  durable  drawers,  and  corset  covers,  by 
machine  for  everyday  wear,  when  one  realizes  how 
much  greater  will  be  the  life  of  the  garment. 

If  one  is  buying  ready-made  garments,  one  should 
think  about  the  following  things  : 

1.  Is  the  material  suitable  ?  will  it  wear  well  ?  is  the 
color  suitable  or  will  it  fade  very  soon  ? 

2.  Consider  the  workmanship.     Are  the  seams  well 
sewed  ?     Is  the  stitching  very  coarse,  or  does  the  gar- 
ment look  well  finished  ?     Is  the  appearance  neat,  or 
will  it  pull  apart  very  soon  ? 

3.  The  construction  should  be  examined.     Is  the  gar- 
ment well  cut,  or  is  it  cheap  because  it  is  scant  in  full- 
ness ?     This  may  not  permit  of  freedom  in  movement, 
and  the  garment  may  have  to  be  cast  aside  because  un- 
comfortable.    Then  money  is  wasted. 

4.  It  never  pays  to  buy  anything  which  one  does  not 
need.     It  is  well  to  have  foresight  and  to  plan  for  what 
one  will  need  for  the  year,  but  experience  soon  teaches 
one  the  quantity.     It  is  foolish  to  buy  unnecessary 
things  because  they  are  pretty.     One  should  learn  not 
to  be  tempted. 

5.  It  sometimes  pays  to  wait  until  certain  seasons 
for    purchasing  garments.     Between    seasons  one  can 
get    well-made    articles    of    clothing    at    considerable 


274  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

reduction,  if  one  can  wait.  Winter  garments  are  reduced 
in  January  or  February,  and  summer  goods  in  July  or 
August.  It  often  pays  to  wait.  In  planning  one's 
wardrobe,  one  can  think  about  this.  January  is  often 
a  good  time  to  buy  household  linens  or  other  furnish- 
ings at  a  reduction. 

6.  The  use  of  garments  should  guide  one  in  making 
a  selection.     It  is  necessary  to  study  one's  whole  ward- 
robe and  to  know  what  is  needed.     A  girl  engaged  in 
business  will  need  an  entirely  different  wardrobe  from 
one  who  spends  most  of  her  time    at   home   helping 
mother.     The  first  step,  then,  in  economy  is  to  know 
one's  needs  and  to  purchase  accordingly.     Is  the  gar- 
ment needed  and  suitable  for  the  occasion  ?     Remember 
about  appropriateness,  and  buy  garments  which  will 
render  the   service  needed.     One  does  not  wear  silk 
dresses  for  housework. 

7.  Sometimes   undergarments   are   made   in   sweat- 
shops under  very  undesirable   conditions   for  health. 
The  garments  are  cheap  because  made  by  poorly  paid 
workers   under  very  unsanitary  conditions.     Do  you 
wish  to  wear  such  garments  ?     As  long  as  women  buy 
the  cheap  kind  made  at  the  sacrifice  of  human  life,  this 
sweatshop  system  will  continue.      One  can  buy  inex- 
pensive underwear  made  under  sanitary  conditions.     It 
is  labeled  with  a  tag  of  the  Consumers'  League.     This 
is  an  organization  which  is  trying  to  better  the  condi- 
tions in  workrooms  and  shops  in  which  clothing  is  made 
and  to  improve  wages  and  working  hours.     This  League 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES 


275 


permits  the  use  of  its  label  on  white  underwear  made 
under  the  conditions  they  approve  of :  no  work  outside 
of  factories,  no  child  labor  under  sixteen  years  of  age, 
and  obedience  to  the  state  labor  laws.  The  labels 
are  used  by  firms  agreeing  to  fulfill  the  above  require- 
ments. If  you  are  purchasing  underwear,  perhaps 
you  can  buy  some  with  the  Consumers'  League  label. 
It  looks  like  this  (Fig.  141).  Miss  James  wears  this 


CONSUMERS'   LBAOUE    LABEL 


QO 
C*9 

cn 


FIG.  141.  —  Consumers'  League  Label  and  Union  Label. 

kind,  and  Mrs.  Oakes  and  Mrs.  Allen,  too,  now  that 
they  know  about  it. 

8.  It  is  sometimes  more  economical  to  decide  on  a 
particular  color  for  a  season.     One  can,  as  a  rule,  wear 
one's  clothes  to  more  economical  advantage  and  look 
better  dressed  by  choosing  a  particular  color  than  if 
one  has  a  red  dress,  a  blue  coat,  and  a  green  dress  for 
best.     The  coat  is  probably  worn  with  both  dresses 
and  may  not  look  well. 

9.  Remember,  if  one  has  only  a  limited  amount  of 
money  for  clothes,  one  should  not  try  to  buy  the  very 
latest  fashions.     Exaggerated  styles  live  but  a  short 
time,  and  some  of  us  must  wear  our  clothes  for  a  long 


276 


CLOTHING  AND   HEALTH 


time,  until  they  are  worn  out.  If  materials  are  good, 
one  can  often  have  one's  clothes  remade,  by  combina- 
tion with  a  little  new  material  of  a  contrasting  kind. 
A  knowledge  of  textile  materials  and  values  will  always 
help  in  selecting  either  ready-made  clothing  or  materials. 
10.  Remember  you  must  know  about  the  things  you 
wish  to  purchase.  Clerks  as  a  rule  know  very  little 


FIG.  142.  —  It  takes  much  thought  to  learn  to  buy  intelligently. 

about  the  goods  they  sell.  If  you  know,  you  can  make 
the  dollars  earned  buy  more  than  if  you  were  ignorant. 

What  should  you  think  about  in  buying  materials? 
Here  are  some  of  the  hints  for  purchasing  wool  and 
silk  materials  or  garments  which  Miss  Travers  gave  the 
Pleasant  Valley  girls.  Talk  them  over  with  your 
teacher.  See  if  you  agree. 

i.  Garments  made  of  wool  and  cotton  mixed  do  not 
keep  their  shape  as  well  as  all  wool.  If  one  can  afford 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      277 

only  wool  and  cotton,  the  salesman  should  tell  one 
in  purchasing  about  their  composition.  The  mixture 
should  be  cheaper.  It  is  often  sold  for  all  wool  at  a 
higher  price.  If  one  untwists  the  fibers  of  the  material, 
it  is  possible  to  detect  cotton.  Try  at  school  on  some 
ravelings  of  garment  seams  or  other  materials.  The 
burning  test  will  help  one  to  decide.  We  shall  learn 
some  tests  in  our  next  lesson. 

2.  Remember  wool  is  an  expensive  fiber.     Do  not 
expect  to  get  all  wool  for  little  money. 

3.  Remember   the   weave   affects   wearing   quality. 
A  close  twill  weave  is  often  more  durable  than  a  basket 
weave. 

Do  you  remember  your  lessons  about  silk  ;  how  it  is 
grown  and  made  by  the  little  worm,  and  how  it  is 
manufactured  or  spun  into  thread  or  woven  into  silk 
cloth  ?  In  buying  silk  one  must  remember  about  its 
manufacture. 

1.  Silk  is  seldom  pure.     It  is  apt  to  be  weighted. 
If  the  silk  feels  heavy  in  the  hand,  it  does  not  always 
mean  that  it  is  a  good  piece  of  material  and  will  wear ; 
it  may  be  weighted  with  tin  ;    up  to  30  per  cent  of  tin 
is  not  harmful.     A  softer,  pliable   silk  is  not  apt  to 
be  so  weighted,  and  will  wear  better.     Soft  silks  so 
woven  as  to   pull  at  the  seams  are  not   economical. 
Close  weaves  are  better  than  loosely  woven  ones  for 
wearing. 

2.  Fray  some  of  the  threads  of  the  cloth  you  wish 
to  buy.     Is  it  possible  to  break  either  the  warp  or  woof 


278  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

easily  ?     If  so,  the  silk  will  split  along  either  warp  or 
filling  and  will  not  wear. 

3.  One  should  not  expect  to  get  bargains  in  silk. 
Cheap  silk  will  not  wear.     It  is  better  to  wear  some 
other  material.     Is   the  material  made  of  reeled  silk 
or  of  spun   silk  ?     You   have   learned  the   difference. 
Articles  made  of  reeled  silk  are  more  expensive. 

4.  Silk    is    sometimes    adulterated   with    cotton   or 
artificial  silk  and  sold  for  all  silk.     We  shall  learn  some 
tests  in  our  next  lesson  so  we  may  discover  too. 

Miss  James  talked  over  all  these  points  with  the 
Pleasant  Valley  girls  and  showed  them  some  good  and 
bad  materials.  The  girls  decided  to  be  on  the  lookout 
for  these  things.  Will  you  ? 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Bring  to  school  garments  or  materials  which  have  not  worn 
well.     Try  to  find  out  why.     Your  teacher  will  help. 

2.  Write  a  composition  about  things  to  think  about  in  purchas- 
ing a  new  winter  suit  ready-made.     If  you  must  buy  from  a  cata- 
logue, can  you  judge  about  the  wearing  qualities  ? 

LESSON  6 

LEARNING  TO  USE  SOME  SIMPLE  TEXTILE  TESTS 

Miss  James  and  the  girls  of  Pleasant  Valley  tried  some  simple 
tests  for  materials.  Perhaps  you  would  like  to  try  them  too  ? 

The  Pleasant  Valley  girls  became  so  interested  in 
Miss  Travers'  talk  about  textiles  and  how  difficult  it  is 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      279 

to  buy  intelligently  that  they  decided  to  learn  to  judge 
materials  and  to  study  about  adulterations. 

How  are  clothing  materials  adulterated  ?  Miss 
James  told  the  girls  that  there  are  a  number  of  ways  of 
adulterating  materials,  and  that  most  women  shoppers 
are  so  indifferent  that  manufacturers  have  been  able 
to  adulterate  the  materials  of  everyday  use.  This 
increases  the  cost  of  living,  for  materials  do  not  wear  so 
long.  Miss  James  says  that  textiles  should  be  labeled 
so  we  may  know  what  we  are  buying.  Some  kind 
of  adulterations  are  honest  if  the  goods  are  so  marked  ; 
but,  when  sold  for  something  they  are  not,  the  buyers 
are  fooled.  The  tests  help  one  to  know  whether  materi- 
als are  adulterated  or  not.  Let  us  learn  first  some  of 
the  methods  generally  used  in  adulterating,  and  then 
some  of  the  simple  tests. 

Weighting  is  one  method  of  adulterating.  This  means 
that  something  else  has  been  used  beside  the  material. 
In  cotton  and  linen  material,  sizing  or  starch  is  pressed 
in  with  the  rolling  in  finishing.  After  washing,  this 
material  will  be  found  to  be  very  open  in  mesh  instead 
of  smooth.  Notice  some  of  the  smooth  linen  table 
cloths  before  they  are  laundered.  Afterwards  you  will 
notice  they  look  quite  coarse  and  have  lost  their  smooth- 
ness. Sometimes  glue  or  clay  or  gums  are  used  instead 
of  starch. 

Silk  is  often  weighted  in  the  finishing  process  with 
sugar  and  some  with  dyes  and  metals.  This  is  because 
silk  has  a  property  which  enables  it  to  absorb  a  great 


28o  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

deal  of  moisture  without  changing  its  quality.  The 
manufacturer  can  buy  salts  and  dyes  for  less  than  silk, 
and  so  he  often  uses  a  large  per  cent  of  dye  or  metal  in 
place  of  the  gum  washed  out  of  the  silk  in  manufacture. 
One  can  seldom  find  to-day  silks  like  our  grandmothers 
used  to  use.  This  is  because  people 
wish  cheap  silks  ;  the  manufacturer  can- 
not produce  silks  for  little  money,  as  the 
raw  fiber  is  so  high ;  and  so  he  uses 
other  things  with  silk  to  weight  it. 

Materials  are  also  adulterated  by 
combination  with  other  materials.  Did 
you  ever  buy  a  handkerchief  marked 
"  pure  linen "  and  discover  it  was  a 
mixture  of  cotton  and  linen  ?  Cotton 
is  also  used  to  adulterate  woolen  mate- 
rials, and  sometimes  silk  materials ; 
"  pure  silk  "  so  called,  is  often  artificial 
silk. 

Adulteration  is  also  practiced  when 
FIG.  143.  — One  can  made-over  materials  or  waste  is  used 
sometimes  test  ma-  to  cheapen  the  cost.     We  learned  about 

tenals  by  burning.       ,  .        .    r  ,          TTT 

this  in  studying  about  wool.  Wool 
materials  should  be  labeled  so  that  the  purchaser  will 
know.  It  is  not  fair  to  pay  the  price  for  an  all-new 
wool  material  if  shoddy  and  mungo  and  flocks,  which 
are  all  old  wool  and  waste,  have  been  used.  The 
per  cent  of  new  wool  should  be  told  and  the  price  made 
accordingly. 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      281 


Silk  is  sometimes  sold  as  reeled  silk  when  waste  from 
cocoons  which  is  called  spun  silk  has  been  used  for  the 
woof  or  filling  thread. 

In  finishing  of  materials,  adulteration  is  sometimes 
practiced.  In  press- 
ing cotton  or  linen,  a 
luster  is  given  to  the 
surface.  Cotton  can 
be  made  to  appear 
like  silk  or  like  linen, 
and  is  often  sold  for 
those  fibers.  Cotton 
can  be  napped  in  fin- 
ishing and  made  to 
look  woolly  as  in 
blankets  or  outing 
flannel,  but  it  is  still 
only  cotton. 

How  can  clothing 
material  be  tested  ? 
These  are  the  sim- 
ple tests  which  the 
Pleasant  Valley  girls 

FIG.  144.  —  The  microscope  reveals  many  things. 

For  sizing.    This  is 

easy  to  identify.  Pick  at  the  surface  with  your  nail, 
and  the  starch  or  sizing  will  easily  come  off.  Hang 
a  wet  piece  in  the  air  and  see  how  the  gloss  looks 
then.  This  sizing  often  conceals  defects  in  the  cloth. 


282 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


These  can  be  seen  if  the  mate- 
rial is  thin,  by  holding  it 
against  the  light. 

Burning  tests.  The  girls 
unraveled  the  fibers  which 
Miss  James  gave  them  and 
tested  wool,  silk,  cotton,  and 
linen.  They  tried  both  warp 
and  filling  threads.  They 
burned  them  with  a  taper. 
The  animal  threads  (which 
are  they?)  burned  slowly, 
charred,  and  smelled  like 
burned  feathers.  Silk  burns 

FIG.  145.— The  test  for  fading.      tO      an      ash,      CXCCpt      when 

weighted.  Then  it  burns 
more  slowly.  When  very 
heavily  weighted,  the  flame 
does  not  burn  readily  and 
the  form  of  the  silk  will 
remain.  The  vegetable 
fibers,  cotton  and  linen, 
burn  quickly  and  with  a 
flame. 

Tests  with  microscope. 
You  have  all  seen  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  fibers  under 
the  microscope.  This  re- 
veals many  things,  and  the 


Frc.  146.  —  The  test  for  shrinkage. 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      283 

unraveled  fibers  are  easily  identified.  The  microscope 
is  the  only  sure  test  for  telling  cotton  and  linen  fibers. 
One  can  sometimes  discover  shoddy  mixed  with  the  all- 
wool  fiber  because  of  the  color.  Shoddy  is  sometimes 
made  of  old  colored  woolen  rags. 

Tests  for  fading.  Pin  a  piece  of  cloth  on  a  board 
with  thumb  tacks.  Cover  half  with  cardboard  or 
heavy  paper.  Expose  to  the  rays  of  sun  for  several 
days.  Remove  paper  and  notice  difference.  A  piece 
can  also  be  exposed  near  bright  light,  but  not  in  sun's 
rays,  to  see  the  effect  under 
ordinary  wear.  Marjorie  Allen 
tested  a  piece  of  cashmere  she 
was  considering  for  a  dress  and 
decided  not  to  buy  it,  for  it 
faded  quickly  near  the  bright 

1'o.U*  FIG.  147.  —  The  test  for  strength. 

Tests  for  strength.  Try  to  break  either  warp  or  woof 
threads.  Place  the  two  thumbs  together  and  press 
down  on  the  cloth  which  should  be  held  firmly  in  the 
hands.  Try  both  sets  of  threads.  Sometimes  a  weak 
warp  or  woof  can  be  discovered. 

Tests  for  shrinkage.  Barbara  Oakes  had  a  white  cot- 
ton dress  last  year  which  never  seemed  to  stop  shrinking. 
Sometimes  we  can  test  materials  for  shrinkage.  Measure 
width  and  length  of  sample  to  be  tested.  Wash  it  in 
hot  water  and  soap.  Dry  and  measure  again.  Is  it  nar- 
rower and  shorter  ?  In  planning  for  cotton  or  woolen 
garments  allowance  should  be  made  for  shrinkage. 


284 


CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 


Chemical  tests.  Chemicals  are  used  for  identifying 
fibers.  Have  you  learned  in  your  eighth  grade  studies 
about  acids  and  alkalies  ?  Have  you  studied  at  all 
about  chemicals  ?  It  is  possible  to  discover  the  compo- 
sition of  woven  materials 
by  testing  them  with  chemi- 
cals. This  is  because  acids 
and  alkalies  affect  vege- 
table and  animal  fibers  in 
different  ways.  Look  up 
the  difference  between  acids 
and  alkalies.  Study  with 
your  teacher  and  try  to  dis- 
cover some  of  the  common 
food  and  cleaning  materials 
which  we  use  every  day  in 
our  homes  which  are  acid  or 

alkali.  Some  of  these  teach  us  we  should  know  what 
the  soaps  and  washing  powders  which  we  use  will  do  to 
our  clothes.  Your  teacher  will  provide  some  chemicals 
for  testing.  It  is  easier  to  test  samples  of  cloth  if  they 
are  fringed  at  the  edges.  Here  are  directions  for  some 
chemical  tests : 

1.  Place  a  piece  of  white  cotton  cloth  and  a  piece  of  woolen 
material  in  small  dishes.     Cover  with  50  per  cent  solution  of  nitric 
acid.     The  wool  fibers  will  turn  yellow.     The  cotton  remain  white. 
If  a  piece  of  wool  cloth  was  mixed  with  cotton,  how  would  the 
test  prove  it  ? 

2.  Boil  samples  of  cotton  and  wool  together;   then  samples  of 
cotton  and  silk  together,  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  5  per  cent  solution 


FIG.  148.  —  The  chemical  tests  show 
many  things  of  use  in  judging  mate- 
rials. 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      285 

of  caustic  potash.     The  animal  fibers  will  dissolve,  the  cotton  will 
remain.     Of  what  use  would  this  test  be  ? 

3.  Moisten  samples  of  cotton  and  of  wool  with  Millon's  reagent. 
Place  in  porcelain  dishes  and  heat  gently.     The  animal  fibers  will 
become  red  ;   the  vegetable  are  unchanged. 

4.  Material  made  of  cotton  and  linen  and    sold    for   all   linen 
can  be  tested.     Place  fringed  sample  in  a  porcelain  dish.     Heat 
gently  in  50  per  cent  solution  of  caustic  potash  for  two  minutes. 
Remove  with  glass  rod  and  dry  between  blotting  papers.     The  linen 
will  be  dark  yellow  in  color  and  the  cotton  white  or  light  yellow. 

So  we  have  learned  a  few  tests  of  different  kinds. 
There  are  many  more.  When  you  go  to  high  school 
you  can  learn  about  others.  The  Pleasant  Valley  girls 
enjoyed  making  these  tests  with  Miss  James'  help. 
Perhaps  you  may  be  able  to  try  them  with  your  teacher. 

EXERCISES   AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Try  the  above  chemical  tests  with  your  teacher's  help. 

2.  Try  some  of  the  other  tests  for  adulterations. 

3.  Tell  four  ways  in  which  materials  are  adulterated. 

LESSON  7 

HOW  PATTERN  IS  MADE  IN  CLOTH 

Barbara  said  she  never  could  quite  see  how  pattern  is  made  in 
cloth.  There  seem  to  be  so  many  different  kinds  of  patterns. 
Miss  James  explained  about  this.  She  said  there  are  several  ways 
of  making  patterns.  Some  are  printed ;  others  woven ;  some 
embroidered.  Have  you  discovered  this  ? 

Patterns  are  often  woven.  Do  you  remember,  when 
you  studied  about  linen,  you  learned  that  the  Jacquard 


286  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

loom  has  a  series  of  cards  above  it  which  are  able  to 
control  the  pattern  ?  Wonderful  silks  and  beautiful 
velvets  and  brocades  as  well  as  damask  table  linen 
are  made  in  this  way  by  weaving.  Patterns  of  stripes 
and  plaids  are  also  made  by  the  loom  in  weaving. 
Sometimes  the  warp  or  the  filling  threads  are  colored  ; 
and  this  color  forms  patterns  in  stripes  or  squares.  See 
if  you  have  any  pieces  in  your  surprise  box  in  which 
pattern  is  made  by  colored  threads  of  warp  or  woof. 

Try  to  find  some  woven  patterns  made  by  the  Jac- 
quard  loom  in  silk  or  linen.  Think  of  all  the  beautiful 
ribbons,  silks,  tablecloth  damasks,  towels,  and  nap- 
kins ;  all  such  patterns  are  woven  by  the  loom.  Plain 
patterns  like  basket  weave,  twill,  diagonal,  satin  weave, 
are  also  made  by  weaving.  See  if  you  can  work  out 
some  of  these  patterns  on  your  school  loom. 

Some  patterns  are  printed.  On  the  plain  woven 
material,  patterns  are  printed  by  means  of  rollers  on 
which  the  pattern  has  been  stamped.  The  colors  are 
put  on  by  this  roller.  The  picture  shows  the  machine. 
Did  you  ever  have  a  calico  apron  or  dress  of  percale 
or  cambric  on  which  the  pattern  showed  on  one  side 
only  ?  Many  ribbons  are  printed  with  a  pattern,  but 
sometimes  patterns  are  put  on  both  sides  of  the  cloth. 
Again,  printing  is  sometimes  done  on  the  warp  threads 
before  the  filling  thread  is  woven  in.  This  makes  a 
dull  effect  in  pattern.  Miss  James  had  a  piece  of  ribbon 
which  was  so  printed.  When  it  was  ravelled  out  a 
little,  the  printed  warp  could  be  seen. 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      287 

Did  you  ever  see  a  foulard  silk  dress  with  white  spots  ? 
Do  you  know  how  they  are   made  ?     There   are   two. 


FIG.  149.  —  Printing  cloth  by  machinery. 

methods.     One  is  called  "  resist/'  and  the  other  "  dis- 
charge."    The  first  method,  "  resist,"  is  easy  to  under- 


288  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

stand.  The  material  is  printed  before  it  is  dyed.  The 
spots  are  printed  with  a  chemical  which  resists  the  dye 
when  it  is  put  in  the  dye  bath.  So  the  cloth  comes  out 
of  the  dye  with  white  spots  where  the  chemical  was 
stamped.  The  "  discharge  "  method  is  just  the  opposite. 
The  cloth  is  dyed  blue  or  black  or  whatever  the  color 
is  to  be,  and  then  it  is  passed  between  rollers  something 
like  your  wringing  machine  and  the  color  is  taken  out  in 
spots  by  chemicals.  Sometimes,  when  the  chemicals 
are  too  strong  or  cheap,  they  eat  the  cloth.  Jane  Al- 
den's  cousin  had  a  dress  from  which  the  white  spots 
fell  out,  leaving  holes. 

Patterns  are  sometimes  printed  on  cloth  by  means 
of  wood  blocks  or  stencils.  Perhaps  you  can  do  some 
printing  on  plain  cloth.  You  can  make  a  stencil  pat- 
tern. Cut  out  the  design  in  it  and  paint  through  the 
holes,  or  cut  a  design  from  a  piece  of  wood,  dip  it  in 
color,  and  print  the  cloth.  Lovely  materials  are  made 
by  hand  in  this  way.  Miss  James  has  a  beautiful 
English  piece  of  Morris  block  printing  which  she  values 
highly. 

Many  patterns  are  embroidered.  Look  in  the  piece 
box.  Sometimes  embroidered  designs  are  worked  on 
cloth  by  hand,  but  many  are  made  by  machine.  Miss 
James  has  a  scarf  which  came  from  India.  It  is  em- 
broidered in  gold  with  little  bits  of  glass  sewed  on  the 
right  side,  and  held  by  the  embroidery.  This  is  all 
hand  work.  Miss  James  has  a  waist  with  little  spots 
of  white  embroidered  in  silk.  This  is  done  by  machine 


CHOOSING  AND  WEARING  CLOTHES      289 

on  a  loom.     Find  some  piece  of  material  embroidered 
by  machine. 

So  Barbara  Oakes  now  understands  about  the  pat- 
terns. Miss  James  had  some  books  to  show  the  girls, 
too.  They  looked  up  in  the  encyclopedia  about  print- 
ing of  materials  and  about  the  other  things  they  wished 
to  know  about  patterns.  Barbara  says  to  her  the  most 
wonderful  thing  is  the  way  in  which  the  warp  threads 
of  the  loom  can  be  controlled  by  the  Jacquard  pattern 
cards  and  other  devices.  The  shed  of  the  warp  as  it 
is  raised  for  each  filling  thread  is  governed  by  the  de- 
vices, and  a  different  set  of  threads  bobs  up  for  each 
shuttle  throw. 

EXERCISES    AND    PROBLEMS 

1.  Mount  on  strips  of  cardboard,  samples   of  material  made: 

a.  By  weaving,  plain,  stripes,  diagonal,  etc. 

b.  By   printing,    resist,   discharge,    machine,    block,  stencil; 

c.  By  embroidery. 

2.  Look  up  in  the  encyclopedia  or  other  books  the  subject  of 
cotton  printing. 

3.  Try  to  find  pictures  of  modern  looms  and  more  primitive 
ones  in  which  pattern  is  controlled  by  the  harness  which  raises  the 
warp  threads  and  makes  the  so-called  shed. 

REVIEW    PROBLEMS 

I.  Look  over  the  fashion  pages  of  your  magazines  at  home  and 
find: 

1.  A  young  woman  suitably  dressed  for  business. 

2.  A  girl  dressed  for  outdoor  sports. 

3.  A  girl  in  a  party  gown. 

Tell  why  you  think  each  is  "well  dressed."     If  not,  why? 


290  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

II.  What  textile  tests  would  you  suggest  when  buying  a  silk 
dress.     Mrs.  Stark  expects  to  have  one  next  summer.     How  will 
she  be  able  to  judge  if  it  will  wear  ? 

III.  Can  you  make  another  middy  at   home.      Perhaps  you 
are  so  expert  you  can  take  an  order  for  one. 


THE  ELLEN  H.   RICHARDS   HOUSE 

You  will  be  glad  to  know  that  all  the  townspeople 
in  Pleasant  Valley  were  delighted  with  the  year's  work 
in  homemaking  in  the  new  schoolhouse.  Mr.  Roberts, 


FIG.  150.  —  The  Ellen  H.  Richards  house. 

the  President  of  the  Pleasant  Valley  Bank,  was  so 
pleased  with  the  results  both  at  school  and  in  the 
homes  of  the  valley  that  he  gave  the  house  that  you  see 


292  CLOTHING  AND  HEALTH 

in  the  picture  (Fig.  150),  to  be  used  for  homemaking 
work  by  the  girls,  and  for  the  boys'  clubs  as  well.  The 
house  was  named  for  Mrs.  Ellen  H.  Richards,  the 
great  and  good  woman  who  lived  in  Boston,  Massachu- 
setts, but  whose  friends  are  found  all  over  the  world, 
and  who  helped  to  develop  the  teaching  of  home  eco- 
nomics everywhere. 

What  are  some  of  the  facts  about  clothing  and  health 
that  a  girl  may  learn,  useful  to  herself  and  her  family? 
This  is  the  question  at  the  beginning  of  the  first  chapter. 
Do  you  not  think  that  you  can  all  give  an  answer  to 
this  question  now  ?  And  would  you  not  like  to  write  a 
composition  about  it  ?  Perhaps  your  teacher  will  have 
a  gathering  at  the  school  of  all  the  fathers  and  mothers  ; 
and  maybe  one  of  you  can  write  a  little  play  or  pageant 
connected  in  some  way  with  household  arts  for  this 
closing  party  of  the  school  year.  Perhaps  you  are  able 
now  to  design  your  costumes  and  make  some  of  your 
garments  or,  at  least,  to  select  them  more  wisely. 

And  where  is  Pleasant  Valley  ?  Perhaps  you  asked 
this  question  when  you  looked  at  the  picture  on  one  of 
the  first  pages.  Pleasant  Valley  is  your  own  home 
town ;  and,  though  it  has  really  quite  another  name, 
it  may  still  be  Pleasant  Rivers,  or  Pleasant  Hill,  or 
Pleasant  Fields,  or  Pleasant  Plain.  Why  not  ?  In 
this  wide  country  of  ours  there  are  many  forms  of  natu- 
ral beauty  ;  and  even  in  the  dry  sections,  where  trees 
are  grown  with  difficulty,  there  are  still  the  far  reaches 
of  the  plains  and  the  beautiful  effects  of  cloud,  sunrise, 


THE   ELLEN  H.   RICHARDS   HOUSE        293 

and  sunset.  If  our  own  town  is  ugly  and  unhealthy, 
it  is  not  Nature's  fault ;  for  the  beauty  and  home- 
likeness  and  the  healthfulness  of  any  place  depend  upon 
its  inhabitants.  Even  the  simplest  and  plainest  village 
or  countryside  has  one  kind  of  beauty  if  it  is  kept  per- 
fectly clean,  and  it  costs  but  little  money  in  many  places 
to  plant  trees  and  shrubs  and  keep  the  grass  green. 

You  must  see,  however,  that  it  is  something  more 
than  beauty  in  the  things  about  us  that  we  have  been 
studying  together.  You  boys  and  girls  in  your  school 
are  to  be  the  men  and  women  who  will  make  the  homes 
and  the  town  the  best  possible  places  for  successful 
and  happy  living.  Do  you  realize  what  it  means  to  be 
citizens  of  a  great  commonwealth  like  this  of  our  United 
States  ?  Do  you  understand  the  meaning  of  the  word 
"  commonwealth  "  ?  It  is  a  good  old  word  that  means 
a  land  where  all  the  people  share  everything  alike  and 
work  together  for  the  good  of  all.  We  cannot  succeed 
in  doing  this  unless  we  begin  in  our  home  and  in  our 
home  town.  More  and  more  must  our  country  stand 
for  democracy  for  ourselves  and  for  the  whole  world, 
and  you  must  bring  to  the  problems  of  the  future,  bodies 
strong  and  clean,  and  strong  hearts  and  minds. 


INDEX 


Adulteration : 

by  combination,  280. 

by  weighting,  279. 

in  finishing,  281. 
Albatross,  210 . 
Alpaca,  213. 
Ammonium  phosphate  for  outing  flannel, 

9- 

Aniline  dyes,  134. 
Apparel : 

choosing,  242. 
Apron : 

attaching  the  yoke,  37-39. 

basting  skirt  part,  33. 

cutting  skirt  part,  31. 

cutting  yoke  part,  33. 

gathering  top  of,  36. 

hemming  sides  and  bottom,  36. 

material  for,  7. 

planning  pattern  for  yoke,  32. 

planning  to  make,  31—33. 

sewing  seams  of,  34-36. 

the  sewing,  127,  128. 

useful,  129. 

"  Artistic  appreciation  "  in  dress,  254-255. 
Attaching  an  apron  yoke,  38. 

Basting: 

corset  cover,  106. 

gores  of  petticoat,  104. 

hemmed  patch,  173. 

skirt  of  apron,  33. 

stitch,  20. 
Bathing,  91. 
Bean  bags,  making,  29 
Bean  bag  board,  29. 


Bean  bag  game,  29,  30. 

Bias  bands,  to  finish,  99. 

Bias  strip,  cutting  and  placing,  24-25, 

Birdseye,  62,  183. 

Blankets,  214. 

Blanket  stitch : 

how  to  make,  138. 

uses  of,  44,  138,  141. 
Bleaching  linen  cloth,  195. 
Bloomers : 

bands  for,  217. 

making,  215-217. 

material  to  use  for,  202. 

pattern  for,  201. 
Bluing,  190. 
Bobbin,  67,  68. 
Boiling  linen,  190. 
Brilliantine,  213. 
Broadcloth,  211. 
Brocaded  satin,  124. 
Brushing  clothes,  157. 
Bunting,  213, 
Butchers'  linen,  183. 
Button,  sewing  on,  45. 
Buttonhole : 

fan  and  bar  ends,  43. 

finishing,  44. 

overcasting,  41,  42. 

placing,  40. 

practice  in  making,  39. 

stitch,  42,  43. 

turning  corner,  43. 
Buying: 

garments,  271-278. 

materials,  276-278. 

points  about,  197-199. 


295 


296 


INDEX 


Calico,  7. 
Cambric,  60. 
Canton  flannel,  8. 
Carding : 

by  hand,  76-77. 

cotton,  72,  74. 

wool,  222-224. 
Caring  for  clothes,  155-174. 
Carpets,  214. 
Cashmere,  210. 

Catch  stitch,  how  to  make,  150-152. 
Chain  stitch,  119. 
Challis,  210. 
Chambray,  7. 
Cheesecloth,  use  of,  9. 
Cheviot,  209. 
Chiffon,  125. 
China  silk,  125. 
Chintz,  use  of,  9. 
Cleanliness  of  body,  89-92. 
Cloth : 

how  made,  74-76,  132-137,  191-196, 
218-224. 

how  pattern  is  made  in,  285. 
Clothes : 

appropriate,  251. 

brushing,  iT&T 

care  of,  155-163. 

choosing  and  wearing,  249,  250. 

removing  stains  and  spots  from,  158. 

things  to  learn  about  caring  for,  156. 

why  important,^ 
Clothespin  bag,  149-152". 
Clothing : 

budget,  230-236. 

color  for,  256-259. 

expense  of  for  a  year,  230. 

for  body  at  night,  89-92,-^ 

helps  save  body  heat,  91. 

important  things  about  wearing,  242. 

night,  aired  during  day,  90. 

points  about  buying,  229. 

ready-made,  271-272. 

relation  to  health,  240-248. 

selecting  healthful,  244. 


Clothing  (Continued) 

several   layers   of,   warmer   than  one 
thick  layer,  92. 

things  to  think  about  in  choosing,  242. 

what  to  do  with,  at  night,  89. 

what  to  remember,  in  purchasing  wool, 
224-229. 

why  air  at  night,  89. 

why  changed  at  night,  90-92. 

why  we  wear,  241. 
Clothing  budget,  230-236. 
Cluny  lace,  93. 

Cocoons,  grown  for  silk,  109-114. 
Colored  silks,  133. 
Colors : 

choice  of,  256-260. 

for  clothing,  256. 

for  a  hat,  266. 

"grayed,"  256-257. 

intensity  of,  257. 

learning  to  combine,  259—260. 

to    bring     out    one's    characteristics, 

256-258. 

Commercial  pattern,  how  to  use,  46-53. 
Consumer's  League,  275. 
Corsets,  245. 
Corset  cover : 

how  to  make,  106. 

material  for,  106. 

nainsook  for,  105. 
Corticelli  cocoons,  113. 
Costume : 

a  background,  253. 

a  work  of  art,  252. 

artistic,  254-255. 

studying  lines  of,  261. 
Cotton : 

baled  and  shipped,  16. 

carding,  72,  74. 

fibers,  7,  14. 

how  grown,  12. 

how  spun,  74,  75. 

loom  for  weaving,  66. 

picking,  13. 

seeds  taken  from  fiber,  I 


INDEX 


297 


Cotton  (Continued) 

spinning,  72-77. 

use  of,  65. 

use  of  seeds,  15. 

varieties  of,  17. 

weaving,  66-71. 

where  grown,  11-12. 
Cotton  cloth,  how  woven,  66-71. 
Cotton  crepe,  60. 
Cotton  fibers,  magnified,  14. 
Cotton  flannel,  varieties  of,  8. 
Cotton  ginning,  15. 
Cotton  materials,  7-10,  59-62,  101. 
Cotton  plant,  12. 
Cousin  Ann : 

her  clothes  budget,  230-236. 

how  she  cares  for  her  clothes,  156-163, 
249. 

what  she   learned   about  dress,  251- 
256. 

what  she  told  about  silk,  133-137. 
Covert  cloth,  211. 
Crepe  de  Chine,  123. 
Cretonne,  use  of,  9. 
Crinoline,  use  of,  9. 
Cross-stitch : 

design  for,  144. 

gifts  made  from,  146. 

how  to  make,  144,145. 

use  of,  143-146. 

Damask,  183. 

Darning,  straight  tears,  163-166. 

Darning  stitch : 

for  stockings,  167-169. 

for  straight  tears,  163,  166. 

how  made,  152-153. 

where  to  use,  166. 
Decorating,  stitches  used  for,  118-121. 

(Sff  also  Embroidery  stitches.) 
Denims,  8,  10. 
Dimity,  60. 
Dress : 

artistic  appreciation  in,  254-255. 

colors  for,  258. 


Dress  (Continued) 

personal  characteristics  in  relation  to, 
256-257. 

spacing  and  arrangement  of  lines,  255. 

use  of  colors,  255. 
Dress  Skirt: 

laying  and  cutting  pattern,  238. 

making,  238-239. 

pattern  for,  236-238. 
Duck,  61. 
Dyeing  silk,  134-135. 

Ellen  H.  Richards  House,  291. 

Embroidery  stitches : 

.    blanket  stitch,  138-141. 

catch  stitch,  150-152. 

chain  stitch,  119. 

cross-stitch,  143-146. 

featherstitch,  119,  120,  129,  130. 

outline  stitch,  121. 
Embroidered  patterns,  288. 
Etamine,  213. 
Eyelets,  270. 

Factory,  silk,  137. 
Featherstitch : 

how  made,  119,  120. 

use  for,  129,  130. 
Felt,  212. 
Fibers : 

cotton,  7,  14. 

flax,  180. 

silk,  in,  132. 

wool,  205-207,  226. 
Filling  thread,  66. 
Flannel,  212. 
Flat  felled  seam,  216. 
Flax: 

breaking,  179. 

combing  and  spinning,  191. 

cultivation  an  ancient  industry,  180- 
181. 

fiber,  6,  180. 

hackling,  193. 

how  grown,  176. 


298 


INDEX 


Flax:   (Continued) 

rippling  and  retting,  177-179. 

rippling  by  hand,  178. 

rovings,  193. 

seeds,  184. 

what  is  the,  plant,  175. 

wheel,  76,  192. 

where  grown,  175. 
Flocks,  228. 

Folding  table  linen,  190. 
Foulard  silk,  123. 
Free-hand  pattern,  46. 
French  seam : 

how  to  make,  87-88. 

use  of,  86-88. 

Galatea,  62. 
Garments : 

buying,  271,  278. 

criticize  your  own,  251. 

points  to  consider  in   buying 

made,  272-276. 
Gauge,  for  hem,  36. 
"German  Val,"  94-97. 
Gifts : 

aprons,  129. 

bag,  127. 

clothespin  bag,  149-152. 

darning-case,  117. 

guest  towel,  146. 

needle  book,  117. 

pin-case,  116,  117. 

sewing  apron,  127. 

sewing-case,  118. 

spool-case,  117. 

useful  cases,  130. 
Gingham,  7,  10. 
Grenadine,  213. 
Guest  towel,  146. 

Hair,  care  of,  262-264. 
Hamburg  edging,  101,  103. 
Handkerchief,  linen,  182. 
Handmade  garments,  57-58. 
Hanging  table  linen,  190. 


ready- 


Hat 

becoming,  266-267. 

color,  266. 

how  to  wear,  267. 

selecting,  262. 

shape  and  lines  of,  264-265. 

trimming  for,  267. 
Health: 

clothing  in  relation  to,  240-248. 

underwear  effects,  245-247. 
Heels,  162. 
Hem: 

gauge  for,  36. 

making  on  nightdress,  88. 

turning  around  neck  of  nightdress,  98. 
Hemmed  patch,  how  to  make,  171,  174. 
Hemming  stitch : 

for  hemmed  patch,  171. 

how  made,  19—22. 

why  useful,  19. 
Hemstitch : 

different  from  hemming  stitch,  147. 

how  to  make,  147-148. 
Henrietta,  210. 
Herringbone  stitch,  150. 
Herringbone  weave,  149. 
Holder: 

finishing,  27. 

planning,  cutting,  and  basting,  24. 
Homespun,  210. 
Huckaback,  62,  183. 

Indian  head,  61. 
Ironing,  189,  190. 

Jacquard  Loom,  124. 
Javelle  water,  187. 

Kimono  night  dress,  64. 
Knitting  machine,  167. 

Lace: 
cluny,  93. 

German  Val,  94,  96. 
kinds  of,  93,  96. 


INDEX 


299 


Lace  (Continued) 

made  by  hand,  96. 

names  and  retail  prices  of,  94-95. 

other  ways  to  finish  instead  of  using,  97. 

sewing  on,  97-99. 

torchon,  93,  95. 

Valenciennes,  94,  97. 
Lady's  cloth,  211. 
"Latest  style,"  251. 
Lawn,  61. 
Linen : 

bleaching,  cloth1,  195. 

finishing,  cloth  for  shipping,  195. 

kinds  of,  182-184. 

manufacture  of,  191-196. 

weaving,  194. 

where  grown,  175. 

(See  Flax.) 
Linen  canvas,  183. 
Linen  laces,  93,  96. 
Linen  materials: 

adulteration  in,  280. 

how  identified,  181-182. 

kinds  of,  182-183. 
Linen  sheeting,  182. 
Linens: 

how  to  wash  and  iron,  188-190. 

points  to  be  noticed  in  buying,  196-199. 
Linseed  oil,  184. 
Loom: 

for  weaving  cotton,  66-68. 

hand,  67,  70,  71. 

"in  days  gone  by,"  68. 

in  factory,  69. 

Jacquard,  124. 

primitive,  68,  71. 
Luna  moth,  in. 

Materials : 

adulterated,  279,  280. 

buying,  276-278. 

for  apron,  31. 

for  bloomers,  202. 

for  underwear,  101,  106. 

from  cotton,  7-10. 


Vlaterials  (Continued) 

from  wool,  269-214. 

linen,  182-184. 

silk,  123-126. 

weighted,  279. 
Measurements : 

how  to  take,  49-50. 
Melton,  211. 

Middy  blouse,  how  to  make,  268-271. 
Mohair,  213. 
Moire  silk,  125. 
Mull,  61. 
Muslin,  59. 

Nainsook,  59. 
Nightdress : 

cutting,  78. 

french-seam,  86-89. 

making  hem  of,  88. 

material  for,  63. 

placing  pattern,  78. 

trimming,  98. 
Nun's  veiling,  212. 

Organzine,  133. 
Outing  flannel,  9. 
Outline  stitch,  121. 
Overcasting  buttonhole,  41,  42. 
Overhanding  stitch,  28-30. 

Pageant,  200. 

Parts  of  sewing  machine,  80-83. 
Patch  (See  Hemmed  patch). 
Pattern : 

embroidered,  288. 

for  bloomers,  2OI. 

for  petticoat,  IO2. 

how  made  in  cloth,  285. 

how  woven,  285. 

laying  for  bloomers,  215. 

laying  nightdress,  79. 

opening  and  reading,  47-48. 

opening  and  studying,  201. 

printed,  286. 

sending  for,  47. 


3oo 


INDEX 


Pattern  (Continued) 

to  change,  51. 

to  lengthen,  51. 
Percales,  7,  10. 
Petticoat : 

learning  to  make,  103—105. 

making,  for  children,  53-55. 

material  for,  101,  102. 

pattern  for,  102. 

planning  and  cutting,  48-52. 
Pincase,  116-118. 
Placket,  105. 
Pongee,  125. 
Porch  cushion,  140-141. 
Pressing  suits,  and  skirts,  157. 
Printing  cloth,  287. 
Protecting  clothes,  161. 

Raw  silk,  115. 

Removing  stains   and  spots,   158,   185- 

189. 

Rinsing,  190. 
Rubbers,  162. 

Ruffle,  making  for  petticoat,  104. 
Running  and  backstitch,  34. 
Running  stitch,  165,  168,  169. 
Russian  crash,  139,  182. 

Samplers,  143. 
Samples  for  toweling,  6. 
Satin,  123. 
Scalloped  edge,  142. 

Seams,  sewing  with   running  and   back- 
stitch, 35. 
Serge,  209. 
Sewing,  an  art,  3. 
Sewing  apron,  127-129. 
Sewing  case,  118. 
Sewing  machine: 

how  to  regulate,  83. 

how  to  run,  84-86. 

how  to  thread,  84-86. 

invented,  81. 

kinds  of,  81. 

parts  of,  81-83. 


Sewing  machine  (Continued) 

things   to   remember   about   stitching 

with,  85. 

Sewing  on  lace  insertion  or  edging,  97. 
Shearing  sheep,  204—206. 
Shears,  205. 
Sheep,  204. 
Sheep  industry,  205. 
Shoes : 

buying,  243. 

care  of,  162. 
Shuttle,  67-68. 
Silhouette,  254,  255,  261. 
Silk: 

cocoons  grown  for,  112. 

dyeing,  I33~I35- 

fibers,  in,  132. 

how  produced,  109. 

kinds  of,  122-126. 

moths,  109. 

names  of,  122-126. 

raw,  114-115. 

reeling,  114. 

throwing,  132-133. 

weaving  by  hand,  136-137. 

weighting,  135,  279-280. 

where  manufactured,  131. 

winding,  133. 

Silk-scraps,  articles  made  from,  116-122. 
Silkworm : 

life  story  of,  109-112. 

where  grown,  no. 
Sizing : 

test  for,  281. 
Skirt  pattern,  47. 
Skirts : 

changing  and  lengthening  pattern  for, 

5°>  Si- 
pressing,  157. 
to  cut,  51,  52. 
to  make,  53-55. 

Soap  bark,  158. 

Soap  solution,  158. 

Spinning,  method  of: 
in  modern  factory,  73,  227. 


INDEX 


301 


Spinning  (Continued) 

primitive,  71. 
Spinning: 

cotton,  72-77. 

flax,  191-194. 

silk  (See  silk  throwing). 

wool,  225-228. 
Spinning  wheel : 

for  flax,  75. 

for  wool,  74. 
Sprinkling  linen,  190. 
Stains : 

blood,  187. 

coffee,  1 86. 

fruit,  1 86. 

grass,  187. 

how  removed,  185. 

ink,  187. 

tea,  1 86. 

when  to  be  removed,  185. 
Stitches  for  decorating,  118-120. 

(Set  Embroidery  stitches.) 
Stitching  stitch : 

making,  25-26. 

other  uses  of,  27. 

use  of,  23. 
Stockinet,  167. 
Stockings : 

darning,  167-169. 

how  made,  167. 

kind  to  buy,  170. 

sewing  rips  in,  170. 
Studying  lines,  261. 
Studying  values,  255,  257,  259. 
Suits,  pressing,  157. 

Table  runner,  139. 

Taffeta,  122. 

Tears,  learning  to  darn,  163-166. 

Textiles: 

for  apron,  7,  8. 

weighted,  279. 
Textile  sample  books,  8. 
Textile  surprise  book,  10. 
Textile  surprise  box,  opening,  58. 


Textile  test : 

burning,  282. 

chemical,  284. 

for  combination,  280. 

for  fading,  283. 

for  finishing,  281. 

for  shrinkage,  284. 

for  sizing,  281. 

for  strength,  283. 

with  microscope,  282. 
Threading  and  running  a  machine,  84- 

86. 

Ticking,  10,  149. 
Torchon  lace,  93,  95. 
Toweling,  material  for,  6. 
Towels,  material  for,  6-7. 
"Tram",  133. 
Tweed,  210. 

Underwear: 

cotton  material   for,   101. 

relation  to  health,  245-247. 
Uses  of  lace,  93-97. 

Valenciennes  lace,  94,  96. 
Velvet,  125. 
Voile,  212. 

Warp  thread,  67-68. 

Washing   and   ironing,   the   process   for, 

189-190. 
Weaving : 

by  hand,  with  simple  loom,  67. 

cotton,  69. 

in  modern  factory,  69. 

Japanese  girl,  69-70,  136. 

linen,  194. 

patterns  in  cloth,  285. 

silk,  124,  136-137. 

wool,  226-228. 
Well-dressed,  what  it  means  to  be,  250- 

255- 

White  petticoat,  101-102. 
Wool: 

blended,  221. 


302 


INDEX 


Wool  (Continued) 

carder,  223. 

carding,  222. 

carding  by  hand,  76-77. 

fibers,  205,  226. 

how  made  into  cloth,  218-228. 

material  made  from,  209-215. 

sheared  from  sheep,  206. 

sorted,  218. 

spinning,  225—228. 

quality  of,  207. 

variety  of  fibers,  207. 

washing  or  scouring,  220. 

where  grown,  203-204. 

why  it  varies,  208. 

Wool  clothing,  facts  to  remember  about 
purchasing,  224-229. 


Woolen  garments : 

points  about  buying,  229. 

washing,  158. 
Wool  Voile,  213. 
Woolen  yarns,  225. 
Workbag,  127. 
Worsted  yarns,  225. 

Yarn: 

spinning  of  cotton  into,  72-77 

woolen  and  worsted,  225. 
Yoke: 

attaching,  38. 

cutting,  apron,  33. 

making  for  apron,  37. 

placing  the  lining,  39. 

planning  pattern  for  apron,  32. 


Printed  in  the  United  States  of  America. 


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